My honey by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with honeycomb pattern in DROPS Alpaca. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-031-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Full length: 40-43-47-49-51 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g color no 7120, light gray green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st and 34 sts x 32 rows in honeycomb pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS w/HOLES, NO 521: 3-3-4-4-4 pieces

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN: See diagram A.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

BUTTON HOLES: Bind off for button holes on right band. 1 button hole = bind off 3rd st from mid front. On next row cast on 1 new st over the bound off st.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
Size 3/4: 21, 27 and 33 cm / 8 1/4", 10 5/8" and 13"
Size 5/6: 24, 30 and 36 cm / 9½", 11 3/4" and 14 1/4"
Size 7/8: 25, 30, 35 and 40 cm / 9 3/4",11 3/4",13 3/4" and 15 3/4"
Size 9/10: 27, 32, 37 and 42 cm / 10 5/8",12½",14½" and 16½"
Size 11/12: 29, 34, 39 and 44 cm / 11 3/8",13 3/8",15 1/4" and 17 1/4".

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes):
All dec are done from RS. Dec inside 3 sts in garter st. Work sts that do not fit A.1 in stockinette st.
Dec after 3 sts in garter st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 3 sts in garter st as follows: K 2 tog.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 202-202-226-226-250 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. P 1 row from WS. Then work 6 rows in garter st - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Then work in stockinette st but work the 5 outermost sts (= band) in each side in garter st until finished measurements.
When piece measures 24-26-28-29-30 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4", K1 row from RS and AT THE SAME TIME inc 34-34-42-42-50 sts evenly = 236-236-268-268-300 sts on needle. K1 row on WS.
Work next row from RS as follows: 5 sts in garter st, K 1, diagram A.1 over the next 224-224-256-256-288 sts, finish with K 1 (i.e stockinette st) and 5 sts in garter st.
Continue like this and remember to bind off for button holes - see explanation above.
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 62-62-70-70-78 sts in from each side (back piece = 112-112-128-128-144 sts).
When piece measures 27-29-32-33-34 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12½"-13"-13 3/8", work 2 rows in garter st over 8 sts on each side of markers, work the other sts as before.
On next row bind off 4 sts on each side of every marker and finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 104-104-120-120-136 sts. Work as follows seen from RS: 3 sts in garter st, K 1, diagram A.1 over the next 96-96-112-112-128 sts, finish with K 1 and 3 sts in garter st.
At the same time dec for armholes in each side every other row as follows - read DECREASE TIP: 1 st 8 times = 88-88-104-104-120 sts.
When piece measures 38-41-45-47-49 cm / 15"-16 1/8"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4", bind off the middle 40-40-40-40-56 sts for neck = 24-24-32-32-32 sts remain on each shoulder. Finish each part separately.
Bind off when piece measures 40-43-47-49-51 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18½"-19 1/4"-20".

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 58-58-66-66-74 sts. Work as follows seen from RS: 5 sts in garter st, K 1, A.1 over the next 48-48-56-56-64 sts, finish with K 1 and 3 sts in garter st. Dec for armhole in the side as on back piece. Remember to bind off for button holes.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-37-41-43-45 cm / 13 3/8"-14½"-16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4", put 14-14-14-14-22 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder.
Then bind off for neck in beg of every row from neck side: 2 sts 4 times, and 1 st 4 times – work the sts that do not fit A.1 in stockinette st.
After all bind offs, 24-24-32-32-32 sts remain on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 40-43-47-49-51 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18½"-19 1/4"-20".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-48-48-52-52 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Insert a marker at the beg of round.
Work 6 rounds in garter st, then work in stockinette st until finished measurements.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat every 3½-4-3½-4½-4 cm / 1 1/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 3/4"-1½" a total of 7-7-8-8-9 times = 58-62-64-68-70 sts.
When piece measures 29-33-34-39-43 cm / 11 3/8"-13"-13 3/8"-15 1/4"-17", bind off 3 sts on each side of marker, now work piece back and forth. Then bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row, in each side as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-3-5-6 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 33-38-40-46-51 cm / 13"-15"-15 3/4"-18"-20", bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side.
Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 34-39-41-47-52 cm / 13 3/8"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-18½"-20½".

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 74 to 94 sts (including sts on stitch holders) around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 6 rows in garter st. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.10.2012
= 236-236-268-268-300 sts on needle. K1 row on WS.
Work next row from RS as follows: 5 sts in garter st, K 1, diagram A.1 over the next 224-224-256-256-288 sts, finish with K 1 (i.e stockinette st) and 5 sts in garter st.
BACK PIECE:
= 104-104-120-120-136 sts. Work as follows seen from RS: 3 sts in garter st, K 1, diagram A.1 over the next 96-96-112-112-128 sts, finish with K 1 and 3 sts in garter st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (105)

Anna 26.10.2020 - 13:32:

Non mi è chiaro perché sidebbano fare quegli aumenti in corrispondenza del cambio da maglia rasata a lavorato...forse perché il nido d\'ape ha bisogno di più punti per lavorarlo. Vorrei capire.\r\nGrazie mille

DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 22:09:

Buongiorno Anna. Si suggerisce di aumentare perchè il punto nido d'ape stringe un po' il lavoro rispetto alla maglia rasata. Buon lavoro!

Vasiliki 07.10.2020 - 23:34:

How i will cast off 4 sts on each side of every marker before separate each part? I have to decrease 16 sts in one row and then separate in three parts?

DROPS Design 08.10.2020 kl. 11:07:

Dear Mrs Vasiliki, at the end of bottom of jacket, you should have inserted markers 62-62-70-70-78 sts in from each side so that you have 62-62-70-70-78 sts for each front piece and 112-112-128-128-144 sts for back piece. Now work front piece until 4 sts remain before marker, cast off the next 8 sts (= 4 sts before marker + 4 sts after marker), work back piece and repeat cast off for 2nd armhole on next marker. Work is now divided in 3 parts; Happy knitting!

Lelletta 07.10.2020 - 16:53:

Ora è tutto chiarissimo! Grazie ancora e buon lavoro anche a Voi!

Lelletta 07.10.2020 - 12:24:

Buongiorno! Grazie per la risposta ma sono i suggerimenti per le diminuzioni che parla di 8m a legaccio,(4+4) mentre nel giacchino 3+3=6.vi incollo le parti che non mi sono chiare: "Quando il lavoro misura 27-29-32-33-34 cm, lavorare 2 f. a m. legaccio su *8* m. da ogni lato dei segnapunti". E poi per il dietro " sulle 96-96-112-112-128 m. successive, finire con 1 m. dir. e *3* m. a m. legaccio. Grazie per la vostra disponibilità e pazienza.... 😁

DROPS Design 07.10.2020 kl. 13:22:

Buongiorno Lelletta. Lavora 2 ferri a legaccio sulle 8 m che precedono e che seguono il segnapunti. Poi intreccia le 4 m che precedono e che seguono il segnapunti (quindi rimangono 4 m a legaccio). Le 3 m più esterne continua a lavorarle a legaccio. Diminuisce poi per gli scalfi prima / dopo queste 3 m a legaccio seguendo le indicazioni del suggerimento per le diminuzioni. La fotografia che mostra il dietro del cardigan può aiutarla a capire la posizione delle diminuzioni. Buon lavoro!

Lelletta 06.10.2020 - 16:05:

Buon pomeriggio! Vorrei un chiarimento per le diminuzioni degli scalfi: nella spiegazione per le diminuzioni parlate di 3 maglie a legaccio, ma nella schema sono 4,(4+4)!Inoltre le 8 diminuzioni devo farle lasciando intatte queste 3 (4) maglie? Spero di essere riuscita a farmi capire! Grazie in anticipo e buon lavoro!

DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 19:28:

Buonasera Lelletta, per lavorare gli scalfi deve leggere il suggerimento per le diminuzioni: le diminuzioni vanno fatte prima/dopo le 3 maglie di vivagno, che vengono lavorate a maglia legaccio. Buon lavoro!

Grete 03.10.2020 - 07:35:

Wieviel Arbeitszeit wird für diese Jacke gebraucht?

DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 08:59:

Liebe Grete, je nach der Erfahrung der Strickerin und je nach jeder Strickerin wird diese Angabe unterschiedlich sein; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Donna Fleischer 15.09.2020 - 05:47:

I don't understand why there are Jacket instructions and then back and front instructions. Please explain. Wouldn't I just use the back and front instructions?

DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 09:41:

Dear Mrs Fleischer, the jacket is worked first in one piece from bottom edge to the armholes (= front and back pieces together), this part is explained under JACKET, then you will cast off stitches for armholes and continue each piece separately - follow then BACK PIECE, RIGHT FRONT PIECE and LEFT FRONT PIECE. Happy knitting!

Margot 09.05.2020 - 23:18:

Die Ärmel stricke ich ja wie angegeben auf Nadelspiel. Wie kann ich dann bei der Markierung auf beiden Seiten abketten? 6 Maschen sind dann abgekettet und jetzt? Muss ich links zurück stricken? Anders geht’s ja nicht, oder? \r\nWas heißt am Anfang der Runde? 3x 2 und 3 x 1 abketten, was heißt das? Nebeneinander? In jeder Runde oder in jeder 2.? Wenn ich wegen des Abstandes der 6 am Anfang abgeketteten Maschen links zurückstricke muss ich dann da auch abnehmen?

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 11:03:

Liebe Margot, ketten Sie die 3 ersten Masche der Runde und dann stricken Sie bis zur Ende der Runde, wenden Sie und die 3 ersten Maschen abketten (= 3 Maschen vor der Markierer + 3 Maschen nach der Markierer), und so weiter stricken, die Maschen werden dann beidseitig (am Anfang jeder Hin- sowie Rückreihe) abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Margot 30.04.2020 - 22:49:

Was heißt beim Vorderteil „ auf Hilfsnadel legen“ bevor man den Halsausschnitt arbeitet? Zur Mitte hin?? Der Halsausschnitt ist beim Vorderteil viel zu klein mit den angegebenen abzukettenden Maschen

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 09:52:

Liebe Margot, beim rechten Vorderteil stricken Sie die ersten 14/22 M (siehe Größe) einer Hinreihe und legen Sie diese Maschen still, die Reihe bis zur Ende stricken, wenden und Rückreihe stricken. Jetzt ketten Sie die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt wie beschrieben ab = 24-32 M sind jetzt übrig. Für die Halskante fassen Sie die stillgelegten Maschen auf und nehmen Sie Maschen rund um den Hals auf. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eugenia Raskopoulos 24.04.2020 - 03:06:

Drop Design Pattern no. Z-031-bn On the Back of jacket I can't understand how you get from 104 stitches to 96 on

DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 09:48:

Dear Mrs Raskopoulos, in the first 2 sizes on back piece you work the 104 sts as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, repeat A.1 over the next 96 sts (= a total of 12 times in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 3 stitches in garter stitch = 3+1+96+1+3=104 sts. Happy knitting!

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