DROPS / 136 / 6

Mystic River by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no CL-010
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-102-120-138 cm / 33"-40"-47 1/4"-54 1/4"
Full length: 46-46-51-51 cm / 18"-18"-20"-20"

Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
300-350-450-500 g color no 12, olive

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450 g colour no 10, moss green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6- or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 2 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2 – diagrams show pattern from RS. 1 diagram = 1 repetition = 9 sts in width.

Work front piece as follows (from bottom up): Diagram M.1: 2-2-3-3 times, diagram M.2: 1 time, diagram M.1: 1 time, diagram M.2: 1 time and diagram M.1: 2 times.

Work back piece as follows (top down): Diagram M.1: 2 times, diagram M.2: 1 time, diagram M.1: 1 time, diagram M.2: 1 time and diagram M.1: 2-2-3-3 times.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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JACKET:
First work right front piece and inc for sleeve, then work left front piece and sleeve, then slip these tog and work down back piece. Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 49-58-67-76 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side and 3 band sts towards mid front) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light or "Belle". K 4 rows (1st row = WS), then P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows: 3 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, PATTERN - see explanation above - until 1 edge st remains, work this in garter st. Continue like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 26-26-27-27 cm / 10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-10 5/8", cast on 20-20-11-11 new sts for sleeve at the end of next row towards the side (fewer sts in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width) = 69-78-78-87 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work sleeve sts in pattern but work the outermost 3 sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 27-27-29-29 cm / 10 5/8"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/8", bind off for 1 button hole by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and then making 1 YO. Repeat bind off for button hole when piece measures 30-30-32-32 cm / 11 3/4"-11 3/4"-12½"-12½".
When piece measures 31-31-33-33 cm / 12 1/4"-12 1/4"-13"-13", slip the outermost 12 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off at beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 49-58-58-67 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue to work as before with 1 st towards mid front in garter st until piece measures approx. 46-46-51-51 cm / 18"-18"-20"-20" - adjust so that last row is worked from RS and is the row marked with an arrow in diagram M.1. Now insert a marker (= mid on top shoulder). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work the 2 next to last rows in diagram M.1, put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right piece but reversed. NOTE: Do not bind off for button hole.

BACK PIECE:
1st row = WS (= last row in diagram M.1). Work sts from right front piece on to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, cast on 34 new sts (= back of neck) and work sts from left front piece on to circular needle = 132-150-150-168 sts in total.
Continue with PATTERN as explained above, but work 4 rows in garter st over the 34 new sts before they are also included into pattern!
When piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm / 8"-8"-9½"-9½" from marker on shoulder, bind off the 20-20-11-11 sleeve sts in each side (bind off at beg of the next 2 rows) = 92-110-128-146 sts remain on needle. Continue the pattern with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When working diagram M.1 for the last time, finish with the row marked with a star. Piece now measures approx. 45-45-50-50 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 3/4" from marker on shoulder.
Now K 3 rows (1st row = WS). Then LOOSELY bind off with K from RS – NOTE: It is important to avoid a tight bind off edge.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up approx. 38-41 sts (from RS, incl sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 4 mm along neckline of RIGHT FRONT PIECE until begin of BACK PIECE (= the 34 new stitches in garter st) . K 3 rows back and forth, then bind off. Repeat along LEFT FRONT PIECE.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.03.2012
BACK PIECE:
1st row = WS (= last row in diagram M.1). Work sts from right front piece on to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, cast on 34 new sts (= back of neck) and work sts from left front piece on to circular needle = 132-150-150-168 sts in total.
Continue with PATTERN as explained above, but work 4 rows in garter st over the 34 new sts before they are also included into pattern!
Updated online: 13.10.2016
NECK EDGE: Knit up approx. 38-41 sts (from RS, incl sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 4 mm along neckline of RIGHT FRONT PIECE until begin of BACK PIECE (= the 34 new stitches in garter st) . K 3 rows back and forth, then cast off. Repeat along LEFT FRONT PIECE.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 136-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (83)

Savelli 24.05.2019 - 14:57:

Bonjour, Je voudrais connaitre le nombre de pelotes coton qu'il me faut commander pour une taille XL (44/46)? Je ne suis pas encore bien fixer sur un modèle top down manches 3/4 J'ai choisi le fil , mis dans le panier et .. stop pour la quantité ! Dans cette attente . Cordialement

DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 17:12:

Bonjour Mme Savelli, vous avez besoin de 450 g (9 pelotes) de Cotton Light ou 400 g (8 pelotes) de Belle. Bon tricot!

Agnes 06.06.2018 - 15:38:

A friend wore this jacket and I loved it so I purchased the yarn to make two of them. Didn’t take in to account that my friend is at least 5” taller than I am, so the bottom edge of the jacket will not fall where it does on the model. I sent in a Question to see if omitting one M1 repeat will be possible to shorten the jacket. Hope so, as I’ve searched and haven’t found another I like as well!

Agnes 06.06.2018 - 15:32:

Sorry, I forgot my email address when asking my question. I am 5’2” and think this jacket will be too long in the body. Can I omit one M1 pattern repeat in the body of the jacket? Cannot ask a local shop. I purchased yarn directly from you. Thank you.

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 16:18:

Dear Agnes, see answer in your previous comment :)

Agnes Hiener 06.06.2018 - 15:25:

I am 5’ 2” and think this jacket will be too long for me. Can I leave out one of the M1 pattern repeats to make the body of the jacket correct for my petite frame? I will be making size L. I purchased my yarn from you directly, cannot get advice from a local shop. Thank you.

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 15:31:

Dear Mrs Hiener, feel free to adjust the height to your own size. And remember you can always contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone or even on social medias. Happy knitting!

Barbara 25.12.2017 - 23:16:

Can’t explain my confusion in the space provided. How many characters am I allowed to ask a question. You should say.

DROPS Design 26.12.2017 kl. 20:10:

Dear Barbara, besides asking questions here, you can also get help in the DROPS Workshop Facebook group, and in person in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy crafting!

Viktoria 30.07.2016 - 12:49:

Liebes Drops-Team! Ich habe große Probleme mit den Abkürzungen am Hals. Mein Muster verschiebt sich, wenn ich die angegebene Maschenzahl beachte. Beachte ich die Maschenzahl nicht und stricke bei den Abkürzungen nach dem Muster, so stimmt wiederum meine Maschenzahl nicht! (= das dürfte dann an den Umschlägen liegen). Wie geht man bei den Abkürzungen am Hals am Besten vor? Viele Grüße Viktoria

DROPS Design 01.08.2016 kl. 07:54:

Liebe Viktoria, das Muster darf sich nicht verschieben, Sie legen die Maschen still beziehungsweise ketten ab und stricken dann genau in dem Muster weiter wie vorher.

Katrine 09.06.2015 - 18:50:

Jeg forstår ikke halskanten. Man har strikket 4 p ret i nakken og så skal man tage ca. 100 masker op i halsen og strikke 3 pinde ret. så bliver der 7 pinde ret i nakken. Det er der ikke på billede. Det ser ud til at der kun skal tages masker i de forreste halskanter, så er 100 for meget. ?

DROPS Design 07.08.2015 kl. 14:04:

Hej Katrine, jeg tror du har ret og de 3 pinde ret som står beskrevet under Halskant skal kun strikkes frem og tilbage over halsmaskerne på forstykket. Vi kommer tilbage med hvor mange m man skal strikke over på hvert forstykke.

Annalisa 06.06.2015 - 16:23:

Ho lavorato davanti dx e sin insieme a specchio. Ora devo fare lo scollo e devo trasferire 12 maglie per ciascuna delle due parti su un ferro ausiliario. Lavoro davanti sin, faccio la diminuzione prevista di 2 maglie e trasferisco le 12 sul ferro ausiliario? Oppure trasferisco le 12 maglie e comincio le diminuzioni dopo 2 ferri? Inoltre, posso fare le diminuzioni lavorando due maglie insieme sia per il davanti dx che per quello sinistro? Grazie.

DROPS Design 08.06.2015 kl. 09:15:

Buongiorno Annalisa. Per lo scollo, deve prima mettere in attesa le 12 m, poi inizia le diminuzioni. Per le diminuzioni, deve intrecciare 2 m per 2 volte, poi diminuisce 1 m per 4 volte. Sulla striscia grigia, alla destra della fotografia, cliccando sulla voce video, trova i video che possono aiutarla in questi passaggi. Buon lavoro!

Marga Hoogeboom 31.05.2015 - 10:00:

Hallo ik heb met een ander garen geprobeerd, geprobeerd en nog eens geprobeerd en nu ben ik eruit. Het gaat goed nu.

Marga Hoogeboom 29.05.2015 - 17:26:

Hoi, Ik kom niet uit goed het patroon, ik doe het zo; na 3 voorbiesst. 2 recht samen, 2 st recht, 1 omsl, 1 st, 1 omsl, 2 st recht, haal 1 st af, brei 1 st, afgeh. st overh, 2 st samen, 2 st recht. terug averecht. Opnieuw 2 voorbiest, 2 recht samen, 2 st recht, 1 omsl, 1 st, 1 omsl, 2 st recht, 1 st afh 1st recht,1 overh, 2 recht samen...NU ZOU IK 2 ST RECHT MOETEN BREIEN, maar die heb ik niet want nu heb ik al lusjes van de ajourgaatjes. ik kom niet uit.

DROPS Design 01.06.2015 kl. 14:10:

Hoi Marga. Ik zie dat je eruit bent. Goed om te horen.

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