DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Mystic River

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 136-6
DROPS design: Pattern no CL-010
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
300-350-450-500 g colour no 12, olive

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450 g colour no 10, moss green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 2 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2 – diagrams show pattern from RS. 1 diagram = 1 repetition = 9 sts in width.
Work front piece as follows (from bottom up): Diagram M.1: 2-2-3-3 times, diagram M.2: 1 time, diagram M.1: 1 time, diagram M.2: 1 time and diagram M.1: 2 times.
Work back piece as follows (top down): Diagram M.1: 2 times, diagram M.2: 1 time, diagram M.1: 1 time, diagram M.2: 1 time and diagram M.1: 2-2-3-3 times.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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JACKET:
First work right front piece and inc for sleeve, then work left front piece and sleeve, then slip these tog and work down back piece. Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 49-58-67-76 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 3 band sts towards mid front) on needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light or Belle. K 4 rows (1st row = WS), then P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows: 3 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, PATTERN - see explanation above - until 1 edge st remains, work this in garter st. Continue like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
At the same time when piece measures 26-26-27-27 cm, cast on 20-20-11-11 new sts for sleeve at the end of next row towards the side (fewer sts in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width) = 69-78-78-87 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work sleeve sts in pattern but work the outermost 3 sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 27-27-29-29 cm, cast off for 1 button hole by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and then making 1 YO. Repeat cast off for button hole when piece measures 30-30-32-32 cm. When piece measures 31-31-33-33 cm, slip the outermost 12 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Then cast off at beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 49-58-58-67 sts remain on shoulder. Continue to work as before with 1 st towards mid front in garter st until piece measures approx. 46-46-51-51 cm - adjust so that last row is worked from RS and is the row marked with an arrow in diagram M.1. Now insert a marker (= mid on top shoulder). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work the 2 next to last rows in diagram M.1, put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right piece but reversed. NOTE: Do not cast off for button hole.

BACK PIECE:
1st row = WS (= last row in diagram M.1). Work sts from right front piece on to circular needle size 4 mm, cast on 34 new sts (= back of neck) and work sts from left front piece on to circular needle = 132-150-150-168 sts in total.
Continue with PATTERN as explained above, but work 4 rows in garter st over the 34 new sts before they are also included into pattern!
When piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm from marker on shoulder, cast off the 20-20-11-11 sleeve sts in each side (cast off at beg of the next 2 rows) = 92-110-128-146 sts remain on needle. Continue the pattern with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When working diagram M.1 for the last time, finish with the row marked with a star. Piece now measures approx. 45-45-50-50 cm from marker on shoulder. Now K 3 rows (1st row = WS). Then LOOSELY cast off with K from RS – NOTE: It is important to avoid a tight cast off edge.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up approx. 38-41 sts (from RS, incl sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 4 mm along neckline of RIGHT FRONT PIECE until begin of BACK PIECE (= the 34 new stitches in garter st) . K 3 rows back and forth, then cast off. Repeat along LEFT FRONT PIECE.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.03.2012
BACK PIECE:
1st row = WS (= last row in diagram M.1). Work sts from right front piece on to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, cast on 34 new sts (= back of neck) and work sts from left front piece on to circular needle = 132-150-150-168 sts in total.
Continue with PATTERN as explained above, but work 4 rows in garter st over the 34 new sts before they are also included into pattern!
Updated online: 13.10.2016
NECK EDGE:
Knit up approx. 38-41 sts (from RS, incl sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 4 mm along neckline of RIGHT FRONT PIECE until begin of BACK PIECE (= the 34 new stitches in garter st) . K 3 rows back and forth, then cast off. Repeat along LEFT FRONT PIECE.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (94)

country flag Barbara Mede wrote:

Hello . i am doing the NECK EDGE. Knit up approx. 38-41 sts (from RS, incl sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 4 mm along neckline of RIGHT FRONT PIECE until begin of BACK PIECE (= the 34 new stitches in garter st) . K 3 rows back and forth, then bind off. How do i join the Right Front Piece Neck Edge to the Back Piece Neck Edge? Thank you.

23.12.2023 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, you don't work the neck edge in the back piece; you have already worked it before. When working the front neck edges you join them to the back piece by sewing. Happy knitting!

28.12.2023 - 23:18

country flag Barbara wrote:

How do you incorporate the extra 34 stitches at the back into the pattern…. When the stitch repeat is 9 stitches ie; 34 is not divisible by 9. Thank you

07.11.2023 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, you will now work the edge stitches on each front piece and the 34 new stitches in M.1 = 36 sts / 9 = 4 repeats, ie work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, repeat M.1 until 3 sts remain and end with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

07.11.2023 - 13:41

country flag Gerda wrote:

Hallo, ik ben dit leuke vestje aan het breien en heb een vraag over de mouw. Ik moet voor mijn maat maar 11 steken erbij opzetten. Worden de mouwen dan niet erg kort in verhouding tot de 20 steken die je erbij opzet voor de kleinere maten? Vr. Groeten Gerda

19.06.2023 - 20:53

country flag Barb wrote:

Right Front Piece.\\r\\nThe instruction says \\\"Then bind off at beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 49-58-58-67 sts remain on shoulder.\\\"\\r\\nDoes that mean bind off every row or every 2nd row?

17.06.2023 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barb, it means to bind off on every row that starts from the mid front (so technically it would be every other/2nd row). Happy knitting!

17.06.2023 - 16:36

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hello. I cannot see anywhere on this pattern where it mentions the gauge ? Regards, Barbara

24.04.2023 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, you will find the tension in the upper part of the pattern together with the sizes, yarn and amount of yarn and needle size + buttons. Happy knitting!

24.04.2023 - 16:27

country flag Sylvie Toquin wrote:

Comment faire les diminutions d'encolure devant avec le point ajouré qui tombe en même temps ? Je n'y arrive pas en tricotant le point ajouré jusqu'au bout du rang car ça fait des trous et avec les diminutions de l'encolure ça ne va pas. Merci par avance de votre réponse.

07.04.2023 - 18:24

country flag Yonnie wrote:

Hi, I'm currently working on size S right side and I'm a little con fused with how to finish the piece. It says to "put it to one side", should I cast off or slip the stitches onto holders?

23.03.2023 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yonnie, at the end of right front piece, slip the stitches on a thread, on a separate needle or on a stitch holder. Work now left front piece, when you are done with left front piece, cut the yarn. You will now work back piece top down starting from wrong side with right front piece, casting on new stitches for neck and working left front piece. Happy knitting!

23.03.2023 - 12:40

country flag MEYER wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas ce que signifient * et la fléche sur le coté du diagramme M1. Merci de me renseigner.

25.03.2021 - 08:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Meyer, l'étoile sera utilisée lorsque vous tricoterez le dos (vous terminerez le dernier M.1 par le rang avec cette étoile); la flèche est elle utilisée pour les devants; vous ajusterez la hauteur indiquée de sorte que le dernier rang tricoté soit celui avec la flèche. Vous retrouverez toutes ces indications dans les explications; elles auront probablement plus de sens dans leur contexte. Bon tricot!

25.03.2021 - 08:51

country flag Rebecca wrote:

My qiuestion is above from yesterday 9/30. The size is small!

01.10.2020 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebecca, you will work 4 repeats of the diagram over the 36 sts = 1 edge st from front piece + 34 new stitches cast on for neck +1 edge st from front piece = you have enough stitches for 4 repeats of 9 stitches. Happy knitting!

02.10.2020 - 08:48

country flag Rebecca wrote:

There is no way to come out even on the pattern after joining the back 34 stitches to front/sleeve sections. I have been sweating over this for over two weeks, have taken it out many times. It just won't work, and I can't come out even, using the 3 stitches each side for fronts.

30.09.2020 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebecca, could you please tell which size you are working on?

01.10.2020 - 10:11