DROPS / 137 / 2

Simply Summer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top in garter st and with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: lace, top down, tops,
DROPS design: Pattern no E-179
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-92-100-110-120 cm / 30''-33''-36¼''-39 3/8''-43 3/8''-47¼''
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''
Measurements might appear small but the garment will be very elastic so knit it in the size you normally use.

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 02, medium pink.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm /US 2or3- or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 2.5 mm /US 1or2 – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagram M.1 – the diagram shows 1 repetition of the pattern.

DECREASE TIP (applies to side dec):
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain BEFORE diagram M.1: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows AFTER diagram M.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP (applies to side inc):
Work until 1 st in stockinette st remains before diagram M.1, make 1 YO, 1 st in stockinette st, work diagram M.1 and 1 st in stockinette st, make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

Worked top down.
Front and back piece are worked separately, then put tog and worked in the round.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 100-100-108-108-115-121 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Safran. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. Insert a marker in the 27th-27th-30th-30th-32nd-35th st in from each side (= 46-46-48-48-51-51 sts between sts with markers). K 1 row from WS. Continue with K on all rows (= garter st). AT THE SAME TIME on next row, inc 1 st on each side of the 2 sts with markers – inc by making 1 YO, on next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Repeat inc every other row a total of 14-17-17-19-19-22 times = 156-168-176-184-191-209 sts. K 1 row from WS after last inc. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Now piece measures approx. 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½''. Work next row as follows (from RS): Loosely bind off the first 40-43-46-48-50-56 sts (= strap), K the next 76-82-84-88-91-97 sts (the first of these sts is already on right needle), and loosely bind off the last 40-43-46-48-50-56 sts (= strap), cut the yarn. Work next row from WS as follows: Cast on 7-9-13-16-20-24 new sts at beg of row, work the 76-82-84-88-91-97 sts from needle and cast on 7-9-13-16-20-24 new sts at the end of row = 90-100-110-120-131-145 sts. Work in garter st back and forth for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'' – AT THE SAME TIME after 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8'', dec 1 st in each side by K tog the 2 second outermost sts from RS = 88-98-108-118-129-143 sts. Put piece aside.

Cast on and work as front piece.

Slip front and back piece on to same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 = 176-196-216-236-258-286 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then work diagram M.1 over 16 sts in each side (i.e. 8 sts from back piece and 8 sts from front piece = mid under sleeve). Work the other sts in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of diagram M.1 in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2½ cm / 7/8'' a total of 6-6-6-6-5-5 times = 152-172-192-212-238-266 sts. When piece measures 18 cm / 7'', inc 1 st on each side of diagram M.1 - SEE INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 6 times = 180-196-216-236-262-290 sts. When piece measures approx. 30-31-32-32-33-33 cm / 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12½"-12½"-13"-13" (50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'' in total) - stop after 1 full repetition of diagram M.1, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. Work in GARTER ST in the round over all sts for 2 cm / 3/4'' - see explanation above! Then loosely bind off with K – use circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 when casting/binding off (it is very important that the bind off edge is not too tight).
The top measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' vertically.

Sew shoulder seams and side seams edge to edge in front loop of outermost st to avoid chunky and visible seams.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 137-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (74)

Jk 23.10.2020 - 15:56:

This pattern seems erroneous. The increase/cast on/off instructions in "FRONT PIECE" doesn't seem to be working the top from top down. Neither does it mention any instructions for shoulder straps.

DROPS Design 23.10.2020 kl. 16:00:

Dear JK, pattern is working (just remember to check your tension), you are working top down, and cast on the sts from a shoulder to the other shoulder (towards neck edge) and will increase first for shoulders/straps then cast off the first stitches on each side for straps, and then continue with body. Happy knitting!

Ewa 13.07.2020 - 12:22:

Hej! Stickar denna för 3e gången å denna blir utan hålmönster! Så, var gör jag då minskningarna i sidorna bäst?! Har ju inget hålmönster att utgå ifrån? /Ewa

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 14:54:

Hei Ewa. Om du har markert sidemasken i hver side kan du felle f.eks slik: Fell slik når det gjenstår 3 m før sidemerket: 2 rett sammen. Strikk 1 rett (masken med merke). Fell slik etter masken med merke: Ta 1 maske løs av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes rett, 1 rett, løft den løse m over. God Fornøyelse!

Corinne EUSTACHE 22.05.2020 - 14:49:

Bonjour, je suis bloquée au niveau du point fantaisie...une fois finie, est ce que le point fantaisie se trouve sur le coté gauche ainsi que sur le coté droit du top? ou bien juste d'un seul coté? Comment commencer ce point fantaisie une fois les mailles des deux aiguilles réunies? je me retrouve avec un dessin qui ne penche pas dans le bon sens et je ne comprends pas mon erreur...Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 16:03:

Bonjour Mme Eustache, on doit tricoter le point ajouré M.1 de chaque côté, sur les 16 mailles sous chacune des manches/emmanchures, commencez le tour avant ces 16 mailles centrales (8 mailles du dos/devant ou 8 m du devant/dos) et tricotez le 1er M.1, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 8 m avant le dos/devant et tricotez M.1 sur les 16 m suivantes et terminez le tour. Bon tricot!

Anna 11.01.2020 - 19:54:

Volevo sapere se c'è un video che fa vedere passo passo come fare, non sono molto esperta ma mi piacerebbe imparare a lavorare questo progetto, grazie

DROPS Design 11.01.2020 kl. 22:11:

Buonasera Anna, per questo modello non è presente un tutorial generale, ma se scorre la pagina verso il basso può trovare i video delle tecniche utilizzate nel modello. Buon lavoro!

Stefania 21.09.2019 - 00:53:

Buongiorno, ho bisogno di accorciare le spalline per far venire il top meno scollato di 4 cm... quante maglie devo montare per le spalline? grazie

DROPS Design 21.09.2019 kl. 06:53:

Buongiorno Stefania. Per un aiuto personalizzato, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Angela 18.09.2019 - 14:55:

Ho realizzato questo bellissimo progetto, ma devo segnalare un paio di cose. Spero di essere utile. Io ho lavorato una taglia S. Alla fine, per ottenere 180 maglie, sono necessari 7 aumenti, non 6 come riportato. Inoltre, non mi sono stati sufficienti 150 g di Safran per terminare il lavoro di ben 10 giri. Sarebbe servito un gomitolo in più (le mie misure sono esattamente quelle del modello). Vi ringrazio se vorrete controllare.

Jette 24.03.2019 - 20:10:

Hej Det er en skøn sommertop, jeg vil dog lige høre, om man kan udelade hulmønstret i siden, uden at skulle rette andet?

DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 09:32:

Hei Jette. Ja, om du ikke ønsker hullmønster kan du helt fint la vær å strikke dette uten at det påvirker resten av toppen. God fornøyelse

Veronica 08.03.2019 - 00:31:

Scusate, mi sono bloccata! Una volta messe tutte le maglie del dietro e del davanti sul ferro circolare, dovrei iniziare a lavorare il diagramma M1. Trovandomi al centro sotto le maniche, devo partire da metà diagramma per lavorare le prime otto maglie, terminando il giro con le restanti 8 maglie del diagramma?

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 09:04:

Buongiorno Veronica. Una volta messe insieme le maglie del dietro e del davanti, se inizia il giro dal lato, dovrà lavorare metà diagramma sulle prime 8 maglie e l'altra metà sulle ultime 8 maglie. Se preferisce può spostare l'inizio del giro al centro sul dietro, oppure subito dopo il diagramma lavorato sul lato. Buon lavoro!

Veronica 25.02.2019 - 23:07:

Buonasera, aumentare 1 maglia da ciascun lato delle due maglie con i segni, vuol dire fare una gettata tra la penultima e l'ultima maglia prima del segno e poi fra la prima e la seconda maglia dopo il secondo segno?

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 00:12:

Buongiorno Veronica. Deve lavorare fino alla maglia con il segno, fa una maglia gettata, lavora la m con il segno, 1 maglia gettata. Ripete in corrispondenza del secondo segno. Ad ogni riga con aumenti, vengono aumentate 4 maglie. Buon lavoro!

Fiorella Carrera 30.09.2018 - 14:10:

Scusatemi ma non trovo dove si creano le spalline forse non capisco le istruzioni

DROPS Design 01.10.2018 kl. 09:35:

Buongiorno Fiorella. Il top viene lavorato dall’alto verso il basso. Le spalline vengono lavorate subito all’inizio, quando lavora a legaccio la parte superiore del top. Le maglie delle spalline corrispondono alle prime e alle ultime m sul ferro (quelle prima del primo segno e quello dopo il secondo segno). Proseguendo con il lavoro come indicato, le spalline prendono forma. Buon lavoro!

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