Winter Jolly by DROPS Design

Knitted balaclava hat in DROPS Delight, with pompom. Size children 3 to 12 years.

Tags: hood, hooded cowls,
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-001-bn
Yarn group A
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
To fit head circumference: 48/50 - 51/53 - 54/56 cm / 19"/19½" - 20"/21" - 21½"/22".

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g color no 03, blue.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm / 24" and 16") size 2.5 mm/ US 1or2 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 35 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog (marker), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Work from bottom up.
Cast on 324-348-372 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 (60 cm / 24'') with Delight. Work 4 rounds in rib = K 2/P 2. Work next round as follows: * K 2, P 2, P 2 tog, P 2, P 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 270-290-310 sts.
Continue with * K 2, P 8 *, and at the same time on 3rd-4th-5th round, dec 1 st in every P-section by P the last 2 P sts tog, repeat dec every 3rd-4th-5th round until only 2 P sts remain in every P-section – NOTE: Dec alternately at the beg and end of every P-section (switch to a shorter circular needle when there are too few sts for the long one) = 108-116-124 sts.
Piece measures approx. 7-8-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-4".
Work K 2/P 2 for 3-4-5 cm / 1 1/8''-1½''-2''. On next round, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 135-145-155 sts. Work 2 rounds with K 2/P 3. On next round, bind off the first 12 sts for opening for face.
Then work back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st at beg of every row 7 times in each side = 109-119-129 sts remain on needle. Continue rib with 1 st in garter st in each side for approx. 16-18-20 cm / 6 1/4"-7"-8" (from where the first 12 sts were bound off), finish after 1 row from WS. Continue with upper piece.

Work 1 row in rib as before (from RS) and cast on 37 new sts at the end of row = 146-156-166 sts. Work 1 round over all sts as follows: P 1, * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain before the new sts, K 2, P 1, then work the new sts as follows: * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K the last 2 sts (i.e. the rib does not work out in the transitions between upper piece and the rest of the cowl, this will not be visible because of dec).
Now work back and forth over the new sts while at the same time dec sts from each side, i.e. work as follows: Turn piece, * work back from WS until 1 st remains of the new sts, then P 2 tog. Turn piece, slip first as if to K, work until 1 st remains of the new sts, slip this st as if to K, K 1 and psso. Turn piece, slip first st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 38-43-48 sts have been dec in each side.
70 sts now remain on needle and the rib works out the entire round in K 2/P 3. Continue with the tail.

Now continue in the round on double pointed needle over all sts – insert a marker in the middle of the 2 K sts at the beg and end of upper piece.
When 3-3-4 rounds have been worked, dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 4th-4th-5th round a total of 15 times = 10 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Tail measures approx. 17-17-21 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-8 1/4".

Pick up 130-140-150 sts on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 inside 1 edge st around the face opening – NOTE: Along the upper piece knit up 2 sts over the 2 K sts and 2 sts over the 3 P sts.
Then work rib = K 2/P 2 (make sure that K and P sts match on top of each other at the top of upper piece) for approx. 5-6-7 cm / 2''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''. Bind off with K over K and P over P. Fold the rib double towards WS and sew to the pick up-edge.

Make a dense pompom with a diameter of approx 4-5 cm / 1½"-2" and fasten at the tip of the tail.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 22-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Susan Vegsund 02.11.2019 - 23:20:

I don't understand the transition from hat to upper piece. After binding off for the face rows are worked back and forth. The first row of upper piece is from the right side with 27 stitches added at the end of the right side row. Then it says to work 1 round with the new stitches worked at the end of the round. Does this mean going back to knitting in the round at this point?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 16:40:

Dear Mrs Vegsund, at the end of last row cast on 37 new stitches at the end of the row, join and work 1 round over all stitches as explained finishing this round 3 sts before the new cast on stitches. Happy knitting!

Lotta Robertsson 25.10.2019 - 14:55:

Hej! När jag minskar ner maskor efter 4 varv resår, får jag betydligt fler maskor kvar än 290 som står på mellanstorleken. Vad gör jag för fel? Jag stickar 2 rm, 2 am, sen ska 2 aviga stickas ihop, 2 am, 2 aviga ihop, 2 am. De jag stickar ihop är räta m, ska de stickas avigt? Får ingen ordning på det hela. Med vänlig hälsning, Lotta Robertsson

DROPS Design 28.10.2019 kl. 10:56:

Hei Lotta. Du har 348 masker og det som skal strikkes mellom de to stjernene *-* har 12 masker, men etter fellingene vil det være 10 masker mellom hver *. Etter fellingen vil en rapport (det som er mellom *-*) være 2 rett og 8 vrangmasker. Det strikkes 29 ganger av 1 rapport, altså 10 masker (2 rett, 8 vrang) x 29 ganger = 290 masker eller alle fellingene. God Fornøyelse!

Diane 30.09.2019 - 16:15:

Bonjour Je viens de relire mon parton et j'ai réalisé que l'erreur vient du début du dessus de tete J'ai bien mon 146 mailles je doit diminuer 38 mailles chaque côté et c'est à ce moment qu'il reste un total de 70 mailles je vient de réaliser que j'ai diminuer juste l'équivalent de 38 mailles Voilà l'erreur Merci de votre patience maintenant ca devrait fonctionner

Diane 30.09.2019 - 14:26:

Ok avant de commencer la pointe on a un total de 107mailles? Et pour vous dessus de tete on parle des 37 mailles? La pointe ne fait pas comme la photo du patron 70 mailles moins 60 je sais que ca donne 10 je sais compter et j'ai fait ces diminutions sur les 70 mailles Mais il reste toujours les 37 mailles

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 16:13:

Bonjour Diane, vous diminuez 1 m avant le 1er marqueur du dessus de la tête et 1 m après le 1er marqueur du dessus de la tête), vous tricotez les mailles suivantes jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m avant le marqueur suivant, vous diminuez ensuite 1 m du dessus de la tête avant le 2ème marqueur et 1 m du côté après le 2ème marqueur = après cette 1ère diminution, vous avez diminué 4 m: 2 sur le dessus de la tête et 2 sur le "dessous" (côté "queue" de la cagoule) et il reste 66 mailles. Vous devez ainsi toujours diminuer 4 mailles, avant et après chacun des marqueurs à chaque fois. Bon tricot!

Diane 29.09.2019 - 06:03:

Ca fait 2 fois que j'essaie ca ne marche pas. Pourtant ca fait longtemps que je tricote. Donc je tricote 37 maille .je place un tricote les 70 mailles je pose un mar queur avant de commencer les 37 je comprends votre message je ne diminue pas sur les 37mailles??? Seulement sur les 70 mailles Est-ce que je bouge les marqueurs apres chaque diminutions?? À l'aide j'aime beaucoup le modele un video aurait grandement aidé les tricoteuses.....merci

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 10:37:

Bonjour Diane, vous devez avoir un marqueur entre les 2 premières mailles endroit du dessus de la tête m et un autre marqueur entre les 2 dernières mailles endroit du dessus de la tête. Vous diminuez ensuite de chaque côté de chacun de ces marqueurs (= avant + après chacun des marqueurs = 4 diminutions par tour) 15 fois au total = soit 60 mailles diminuées au total. Vous aviez 70 mailles avant de commencer, il vous en reste 10. Bon tricot!

Diane 27.09.2019 - 14:45:

Quand on commence la pointe on a 107 mailles(70côtes +37 (dessus de tete) donc je tricote 35(dessus tete)1dim 2 mailles marqueurs et 1 dim) je tric jusque fin dessus tete et 1dim..2 mailles marqueurs et dim sur 37 mailles....15x 4 mailles =60 et on a au debut dim 108 on ne peut pas arriver à 10 total

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 15:54:

Bonjour Diane, vous diminuez 4 m au total = 2 m de chaque côté de chaque marqueur et 15 fois au total, vous allez donc diminuer 4 x 15 = 60 mailles. Vous aviez 70 mailles avant la pointe, il reste donc 10 mailles. Bon tricot!

Diane 26.09.2019 - 17:08:

Pointe est ce qu'on diminue seulement sur les 70 mailles côtés ce qui donne 10 mailles ou c'est 10 totales est ce qu'on diminue aussi sur les 37 centrales???

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 08:04:

Bonjour Diane, on diminue 2 m à chaque marqueur (avant et après le dessus de la tête) soit 4 mailles au total par tour jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 10 m, on diminue avant et après les 37 m (avant et après le marqueur) et les 37 m (après et avant le marqueur). Bon tricot!

Kilian 24.05.2019 - 20:24:

Meine Frage hat sich erledigt, in der deutschen Übersetzung fehlt ein entscheidender Satz, nämlich dass die linken Maschen sich entsprechend der Abnahme reduzieren 🤷🏻‍♀️ war vom Muster her logisch.. Steht SO aber nicht in der deutschen Übersetzung.

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 10:25:

Die Anleitung wurde korrigiert, sodass die entsprechende Stelle nun klarer und eindeutiger sein sollte. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

Kilian 24.05.2019 - 15:27:

Mit * 2 re., 8 li.* weiterstricken. Gleichzeitig bei jeder 3. Runde in jeder li.-Partie abwechslungsweise die 2 ersten/ letzten Maschen zusammenstricken Versteh ich richtig, dass das Muster da "verrutscht" und ich die abzunehmenden Maschen mal links mal rechts zusammen abstricke? Je nach dem, wo ich grad im Muster bin?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 08:20:

Lieber Kilian, die 8 li Maschen werden abgenommen bis nur 2 li Maschen bleiben, dh bis Bündchen 2 re, 2 li aussehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Laura 15.01.2019 - 22:45:

Bonjour, Je suis arrivée au dessus de la tête et ai augmenté de 37 mailles au bout du rang. Je ne comprends pas vraiment comment continuer l'ouvrage. Reprend-on en rond ou en A-R? Je sais que la suestion à déjà été posée mais là réponse ne m'a pas paru très claire, je suis navrée d'insister. Je vous remercie

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Laura, quand les 37 m sont montées, tricotez le tour suivant comme indiqué en commençant par les dernières mailles sur l'aiguille (= en rond, on va terminer par les 37 m montées). Au rang suivant, vous tricotez uniquement les 37 m en même temps, vous tricotez la dernière de ces 37 m avec la m suivante du côté de la tête (en fin de rang sur l'envers (1er rang) et en fin de rang sur l'endroit), ces diminutions se font à la fin de chaque rang jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 70 m (= vous avez diminué 38-43-48 m de chaque côté). Bon tricot!

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