Fairy Wings by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS bolero in garter st with lace edge in ”Kid-Silk”. Size 3 to 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no KS-002-bn
Yarn group A
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 07, light steel blue: 50-50-75-75-100 g.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/ US 4 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 44 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

See diagram M.1. To make the pattern the same in each side, work first row in diagram at the end of first row from RS and at the end of the second row from WS. I.e. all rows where YOs and sts-tog are worked, must be worked at the end of row. No of sts in diagram will vary from 7 to 17.

Work 6 rows over all sts, * work until marker in one side, turn, tighten yarn and work back.
Work 1 row over all sts, turn, work until marker in the other side, turn, tighten yarn and work back. Work 5 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*. I.e. work 6 rows (= 3 ridges) over the middle 70-76-78-86-92 sts and 8 rows (4 ridges) over sts in each side in every repetition.

Work sideways back and forth on circular needle from sleeve to sleeve. Then fold double and sew sleeve and side seams.

Cast on 52-58-62-66-70 sts with 2 strands Kid-Silk on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Remove 1 strand and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above! REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' (= sleeve), loosely cast on 27-29-30-34-37 new sts in each side (cast on at the end of the next 2 rows) = 106-116-122-134-144 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece, after 18-20-22-24-26 sts in from each side (= 70-76-78-86-92 sts between markers).
Continue in garter st and PATTERN over the outermost sts in each side – see explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above!
When piece measures approx. 44-49-54-59-64 cm / 17 1/4"-19 1/4"-21 1/4"-23 1/4"-25 1/4" (incl sleeve), loosely bind off 27-29-30-34-37 sts in each side (bind off at the beg of the next 2 rows) – NOTE: bind off after 1 whole repetition of diagram M.1.
Continue in garter st over the remaining 52-58-62-66-70 sts (= sleeve).
When sleeve measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', loosely bind off with 2 strands.

Fold the bolero double – chart shows piece when it is folded. Sew sleeve and side seams in outer loops of edge sts, make sure the seam is not too tight – the dotted line on chart shows where seams should be.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from both RS and WS (= garter st)
= double YO, i.e. 2 YO between 2 sts. On next row K first YO and K second YO twisted
= 1 YO between 2 sts. On return row, K the YO
= K 2 tog
= bind off this stitch
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 22-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Sofia Bengtsson 24.01.2019 - 16:21:

Hej. Jag förstår inte själva mönsterbilden. Jag förstår vad tecknen betyder men hur ska jag använda mig av mönster beskrivningen M1?? Finns ingen del på boleron som har den formen. Tacksam för hjälp

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 07:33:

Hei Sofia. Om du ser på bildet av boleroen ser du at det er en kant rundt hele som har hullmønster og "tagger", dette er M.1. Diagrammet leser du rute for rute, fra høyre mot venstre, nedenfra og opp. Altså, du begynner med ruten nederst i høyre hjørnet (rillemaske), og jobber deg bortover mot venstre. Neste omgang strikker du 2 rad i diagrammet, og begynner igjen i høyre siden. Du begynner altså med å strikke M.1 over de 7 ytterste maskene på hver pinne. På grunn av økninger kast i diagrammet vil det etterhvert økes masker utover, som siden felles igjen som vist. Når du strikker fra vrangsiden må du lese diagrammet fra venstre mot høyre. God fornøyelse

Hildegard Klein 10.05.2017 - 21:08:

Danke, also stricke ich zuerst auf beiden Seiten das Muster und dann über 6 R die verkürzten Reihen? Ist das so richtig?

DROPS Design 11.05.2017 kl. 09:03:

Liebe Frau Klein, das Muster wird auf beiden Seiten gestrickt, wenn Sie über diese Maschen stricken, dh bei den verkürzten Reihen stricken Sie das Muster auf die äussersten Maschen auf der Seite, und wenn Sie über alle Maschen stricken, wird das Muster beidseitig gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hildegard Klein 09.05.2017 - 07:27:

Ich verstehe nicht wann die verkürzten Reihen gestrickt werden? Wird erst auf einer Seite der mustersatz gestrickt und dann auf der anderen Seite? Ich blicke nicht durch.

DROPS Design 09.05.2017 kl. 08:36:

Liebe Frau Klein, die verzkürzten Reihen werden beidseitig gestrickt und zwar so (nach 6 R über alle M.): *2 Reihe bis zur Markierung, 1 Reihe über alle Maschen, 2 Reihe bis zur Markierung (= auf den anderen Seite), 5 Reihe über alle Maschen*, von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christiane 08.05.2017 - 22:47:

Merci, pour votre réponse, c'est ok

Christiane 04.05.2017 - 16:06:

Bonjour, concernant le modèle Drops Children 22-18, je patine entre les rangs raccourcis et le point fantaisie M.1! A quel rang selon le diagramme je dois commencer les rangs raccourcis ? Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 05.05.2017 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Christiane, le diagramme se tricote de chaque côté en début et fin de rangs, les rangs raccourcis se tricotent ainsi en même temps: d'abord 6 rangs sur toutes les mailles, puis *2 rangs jusqu'au marqueur, 1 rang sur toutes les mailles, 2 rangs jusqu'au marqueur (de l'autre côté), 5 rangs sur toutes les mailles*, répétez de *-* et tricotez le diagramme sur les mailles des extrémités à chaque fois que vous les tricotez. Bon tricot!

Pamela 22.03.2017 - 16:30:

Bonjour J'aimerai faire ce gilet en 3/4 ans mais j'aimerai faire des manche longue pouvez vous me dire combien de maille je dois rajouter et si je dois prendre de la laine en plus merci d'avance

DROPS Design 22.03.2017 kl. 17:35:

Bonjour Pamela, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande individuelle. Vous pouvez vous baser sur un modèle similaire ou demander de l'aide auprès de votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Linda 23.02.2017 - 09:47:

Salve, non ho capito se il motivo M1 va iniziato subito dopo aver avviato le maglie o dopo 8 cm, grazie

DROPS Design 23.02.2017 kl. 10:04:

Buongiorno Linda. Deve lavorare prima 8 cm a punto legaccio e poi inizia il diagramma M1. Buon lavoro!

Martine 08.08.2016 - 17:11:

Dat staat overigens vrij duidelijk omschreven in de beschrijving en daar gaat mijn vraag ook niet over. Mijn vraag is of ik het keren bij de marker moet zien als einde van de naald (en daar dus ook een patroonregel moet maken) of dat het echt alleen gaat om de buitenste steken van het werk (en je dus vóór het keren bij de marker géén patroon inbreit, maar alleen over de buitenste steken..)

DROPS Design 09.08.2016 kl. 09:41:

Nee, de markeerders geven aan waar u moet keren. Het eind van de naald is als alle steken 'op' zijn. Het patroon wordt aan beide kanten over de buitenste steken op de naald gebreid. Om te zorgen dat de buitenste randen, met patroon. breder worden dan het deel dat op de rug komt, worden er meer naalden gebreid over de steken BUITEN de markeerders. U breit dus nooit extra patroonnaalden bij de markeerders, maar altijd aan de buitenkant.

Martine 08.08.2016 - 17:10:

Dat lijkt me niet juist... Aangezien er allen omslagen zitten in even regels van het patroon dan zouden deze omslagen (gatenpatroon) maar aan één kant van het breiwerk uitkomen. Dat klopt dus niet. Dezelfde regel moet aan beide zijden worden herhaald; elke regel patroon moet dus een keer aan de goede zijde èn een keer aan de verkeerde zijde gebreid worden (elke regel doe je in feite 2x). Dan komt het patroon wel aan beide zijden van het breiwerk uit.

DROPS Design 09.08.2016 kl. 09:34:

Nee, u breit het patroon aan beide kanten.

Martine 08.08.2016 - 15:06:

Ik snap het bijna.. Ik werk elke regel van het patroon een keer aan het eind van de naald aan de goede kant èn een keer aan het eind van de naald aan de verkeerde kant. Maar nu.. doe ik dat ook aan het eind van de verkorte naalden (m.a.w. bij de marker) of alleen aan het eind van de hele naalden?

DROPS Design 08.08.2016 kl. 15:24:

U breit het patroon zodra u deze steken breit. Dus u breit meer naalden over de buitenste steken, aan de buitenkant van de markeerders en minder naalden over de middelste steken, tussen de markeerders. Als u de eerste keer een heengaande nld breit over de buitenste steken, breit u de eerste nld van het telpatroon. Als u terug breit over deze steken, breit u de tweede nld van het telpatroon. Zodra u weer aankomt bij deze steken, breit u de derde naald, terug breit u de vierde nld, enzovoorts. En als u het patroontje een keer gebreid hebt, begint u weer bij de eerste naald zodra u over de patroonsteken breit.

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