DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Fairy Wings

Knitted DROPS bolero in garter st with lace edge in ”Kid-Silk”. Size 3 to 12 years.

DROPS Children 22-18
DROPS design: Pattern no KS-002-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 07, light steel blue: 50-50-75-75-100 g.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/ US 4 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 44 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. To make the pattern the same in each side, work first row in diagram at the end of first row from RS and at the end of the second row from WS. I.e. all rows where YOs and sts-tog are worked, must be worked at the end of row. No of sts in diagram will vary from 7 to 17.

SHORT ROWS:
Work 6 rows over all sts, * work until marker in one side, turn, tighten yarn and work back.
Work 1 row over all sts, turn, work until marker in the other side, turn, tighten yarn and work back. Work 5 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*. I.e. work 6 rows (= 3 ridges) over the middle 70-76-78-86-92 sts and 8 rows (4 ridges) over sts in each side in every repetition.
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BOLERO:
Work sideways back and forth on circular needle from sleeve to sleeve. Then fold double and sew sleeve and side seams.

Cast on 52-58-62-66-70 sts with 2 strands Kid-Silk on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Remove 1 strand and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above! REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' (= sleeve), loosely cast on 27-29-30-34-37 new sts in each side (cast on at the end of the next 2 rows) = 106-116-122-134-144 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece, after 18-20-22-24-26 sts in from each side (= 70-76-78-86-92 sts between markers).
Continue in garter st and PATTERN over the outermost sts in each side – see explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above!
When piece measures approx. 44-49-54-59-64 cm / 17 1/4"-19 1/4"-21 1/4"-23 1/4"-25 1/4" (incl sleeve), loosely bind off 27-29-30-34-37 sts in each side (bind off at the beg of the next 2 rows) – NOTE: bind off after 1 whole repetition of diagram M.1.
Continue in garter st over the remaining 52-58-62-66-70 sts (= sleeve).
When sleeve measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', loosely bind off with 2 strands.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bolero double – chart shows piece when it is folded. Sew sleeve and side seams in outer loops of edge sts, make sure the seam is not too tight – the dotted line on chart shows where seams should be.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from both RS and WS (= garter st)
symbols = double YO, i.e. 2 YO between 2 sts. On next row K first YO and K second YO twisted
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts. On return row, K the YO
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = bind off this stitch
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Martine wrote:

Dat lijkt me niet juist... Aangezien er allen omslagen zitten in even regels van het patroon dan zouden deze omslagen (gatenpatroon) maar aan één kant van het breiwerk uitkomen. Dat klopt dus niet. Dezelfde regel moet aan beide zijden worden herhaald; elke regel patroon moet dus een keer aan de goede zijde èn een keer aan de verkeerde zijde gebreid worden (elke regel doe je in feite 2x). Dan komt het patroon wel aan beide zijden van het breiwerk uit.

08.08.2016 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Nee, u breit het patroon aan beide kanten.

09.08.2016 - 09:34

country flag Martine wrote:

Ik snap het bijna.. Ik werk elke regel van het patroon een keer aan het eind van de naald aan de goede kant èn een keer aan het eind van de naald aan de verkeerde kant. Maar nu.. doe ik dat ook aan het eind van de verkorte naalden (m.a.w. bij de marker) of alleen aan het eind van de hele naalden?

08.08.2016 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

U breit het patroon zodra u deze steken breit. Dus u breit meer naalden over de buitenste steken, aan de buitenkant van de markeerders en minder naalden over de middelste steken, tussen de markeerders. Als u de eerste keer een heengaande nld breit over de buitenste steken, breit u de eerste nld van het telpatroon. Als u terug breit over deze steken, breit u de tweede nld van het telpatroon. Zodra u weer aankomt bij deze steken, breit u de derde naald, terug breit u de vierde nld, enzovoorts. En als u het patroontje een keer gebreid hebt, begint u weer bij de eerste naald zodra u over de patroonsteken breit.

08.08.2016 - 15:24

country flag Provot Catherine wrote:

Re bonjour, Toujours sur le DROPS Childrens 22-18 Lorsqu'on rabat le 10 m on est au bord exterieur des 29 m rajoutes? merci!

29.01.2016 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Provot, tout à fait, les 10 mailles rabattues sont celles de M.1, en début de rang. Bon tricot!

29.01.2016 - 16:32

Provot Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, pour le point fantaisie du DROPS children 22-18: faut il rajouter chaque fois 29 m apres les 20 rangs du diagramme M1 et recommencer? Merci de votre réponse

29.01.2016 - 07:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Provot, M.1 se tricote sur les 20 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 49 cm (2ème taille) - quand les 20 rangs de M1 sont tricotés, reprenez au 1er rang. Bon tricot!

29.01.2016 - 09:11

country flag Regine wrote:

Smådrops 22-18 Dette er en uforståelig oppskrift. Jeg er vant med å lese og følge strikkeoppskrifter, men denne er ikke skrevet for at andre personer skal kunne strikke dette. Dere bør skrive oppskriften på nytt slik at det er forståelig!

26.11.2015 - 17:31

country flag Chantal Galarneau wrote:

Serait-il possible de savoir, maille par maille, rang par rang comment tricoter ce patron. Le fait d'expliquer les rangs raccourcit indépendamment du motif rend la chose très compliquer pour moi. J'ai lu et relu les explications et les commentaires, j'ai une vague idée, mais ne comprend toujours pas comment comment sur le 1er rang l'on doit rabattre 10 M et sur le second rand, en dessous de ces même mailles, faire une jeté entre des M maintenant inexistante... Merci de votre aide

19.04.2015 - 18:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Galarneau, pour les rangs raccourcis, on tricote *2 rangs sur les m jusqu'au marqueur, 1 rang sur toutes les m, 2 rangs sur les mailles jusqu'au marqueur (de l'autre côté), puis 5 rangs sur toutes les mailes* (=2 rangs en plus sur les m de chaque côté). M.1 se lit en commençant en bas à droite vers la gauche sur l'endroit, les m sont rabattues au début des rangs 10 et 20. Bon tricot!

20.04.2015 - 10:07

country flag Mona wrote:

Går det an å få en "enklere" mønsterforklaring" på denne oppskriften. Dette var det ikke lett å finne ut av.

07.03.2015 - 11:59

Hazel wrote:

Hi Thank you again for a quick and prompt reply. The problem is, you did not confirm my issue. I understand I do a short row after the 6th row.... I also understand that I must follow the M1 pattern. I then do another short row after row after the following 5th row..... BUT do I do any more short rows? Or is it just twice??? Thank you for your patience.

05.12.2014 - 02:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hazel, you have to repeat the section from *-* under "SHORT ROWS" at the beg of the pattern (with M1 each side), from where you cast on new sts each side after sleeve, until you bind off these sts each side for 2nd sleeve (= 3 ridges over middle sts and 4 ridges over sts in each side every time you repeat the section from *-*). This will create the extra width in each side. Happy knitting!

05.12.2014 - 09:12

Hazel wrote:

Thank you for your reply..... I sort of worked it out. Now another question ?? Do I do the short rows only twice, or every sixth row till I reach the desired length. Thank you.

04.12.2014 - 05:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hazel, short rows are worked at the same time as you work diagram M1 each side, ie first work 6 rows over all sts then start short rows: *1 row to marker in one side, turn and work row back, 1 row over all sts, turn and work row back, 1 row to marker in the other side, turn and work row bac, 5 rows over all sts* - when you work sts from beg/end of row each side, work in pattern M1 as explained (1st row in diagram at the end of 1st row from RS and at the end of 2nd row from WS). Happy knitting!

04.12.2014 - 11:18

Hazel wrote:

I don't understand this pattern at all. The pattern M1 gives me no clue to what are rows and what are stitches..... do I read it sideways or from top to bottom. Do I read from left to right and right to left on the next row? The diagram gives loads of numbers, but I have no clue to what they relate to!!! using a fluffy yarn, I do NOT want to knit and undo all the time. I am at a loss how to do the short rows also. Do I stop doing the pattern when doing short rows? HELP

02.12.2014 - 02:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hazel, start reading diagram from bottom corner on the right side towards the left - work 1st row at the end of 1st row from RS and at the end of 2nd row from WS (ie row with holes will be worked at the end of row) - 1 square = 1 st x 1 row. You have to work short rows at the same time as pattern to get the extra width on each side of piece. Happy knitting!

02.12.2014 - 09:22