DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g

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DROPS 77-26

DROPS Cardigan with long or short sleeves in Safran

DROPS 77-26
Suggest a name
CARDIGAN:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished bust measurements:
82-92-102-112-122 cm [32.25" - 36.25" - 40⅛" - 44" - 48"]

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
Short sleeve: 250-250-300-300-350 gr nr 17, white.
Long sleeve: 350-350-400-400-450 gr nr 17, white.

Narrow white ribbon: approx. 90-100-110-120-130 cm long
9 DROPS Pearl shell buttons nr 521

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3 mm [US 2] circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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TOP:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished bust measurements:
76-86-96-106-116 cm [29⅞" - 33⅞" - 37.75" - 41.75" - 45⅝"]

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250 gr nr 17, white.

Narrow white ribbon: approx. 85-95-105-115-125 cm long.

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3 mm [US 2] circular needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

CARDIGAN

Gauge:
Stockinette st: 24 sts x 32 rows on larger needles = 10 x 10 cm.
Pattern 1: 24 sts on smaller needles = 10 cm wide

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Buttonhole:
Make buttonholes on right buttonband as follows (from wrong side): knit until 4 sts remain, K 1, yo, K 3. Knit the next row as follows (from right side): K 1, K 2 tog, K the yo from previous row, K 1.
Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Make the last buttonhole when there are 2 rows garter st remaining in neck shaping.
Size S: 2, 7, 12, 17, 21, 26, 31, 36 and 41 cm
Size M: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37 and 42 cm
Size L: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22, 27, 33, 38 and 43 cm
Size XL: 2, 7, 13, 18, 23, 28, 34, 39 and 44 cm
Size XXL: 2, 7, 13, 18, 24, 29, 34, 40 and 45cm

Body: Cast on 203-227-251-275-299 sts on smaller circular needles. Knit Pattern 1 (row 1 = wrong side, begin pattern with P 3), keeping 4 sts in garter st at each side for buttonbands - make buttonholes on right buttonband - see instructions above. When the piece measures 22 cm change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern 2 to finished measurements. When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm knit the next row as follows (right side row): 50-56-62-68-74 sts (= right front), bind off 7 sts for armhole, 89-101-113-125-137 sts (= back), bind off 7 sts for armhole), 50-56-62-68-74 sts (= left front). Knit each piece separately.

Left front: = 50-56-62-68-74 sts. Bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 3 sts 0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-4-4-4-4 times = 49-50-51-52-53 sts. When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46 cm put the 10 sts at the center front edge on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 10 times = 24-25-26-27-28 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Right front: = 50-56-62-68-74 sts. Knit the same as the left, reversing shaping - continue to make buttonholes.

Back: = 89-101-113-125-137 sts. Bind off for armholes at each side as on front = 87-89-91-93-95 sts remain. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm bind off the center 35 sts for the neck. Then dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 2 times = 24-25-26-27-28 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Short sleeve: Cast on 72-78-78-84-90 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit Pattern 1 one time, change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 2 to finished measurements. After Pattern 1 inc 1 st each side of marker (make incs 1 st in from marker) every 6-8-3-3-4 rows a total of 3-2-4-4-3 times = 78-82-86-92-96 sts - purl the increased sts. When the piece measures 7-6-5-5-5 cm bind off 7 sts at marker (3 before and 4 after). Then bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-1-0-0-0 times, 1 st 5-10-15-18-21 times, then bind off 3 sts at each side until the piece measures 14-15-16-18-20 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Long sleeve: Cast on 54-54-60-60-60 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit Pattern 1 one time, change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 2 to finished measurements. At the same time when the piece measures 8-8-8-7-7 cm inc 1 st each side of marker (make incs 1 st in from marker) every 11-9-9-7-6 rows a total of 12-14-13-16-18 times = 78-82-86-92-96 sts - purl the increased sts. When the piece measures 49-47-45-43-41 cm bind off 7 sts at marker (3 sts before and 4 sts after). Then bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-1-0-0-0 times, 1 st 5-10-15-18-21 times, then bind off 3 sts at each side until the piece measures 56 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 110-120 sts (incl. sts on st holders) around the neck on smaller circular needles. Knit 3 rows garter st, then bind off.
Sew in sleeves and buttons. Thread ribbon through the top row of holes in Pattern 1.

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TOP

Gauge:
Stockinette st: 24 sts x 32 rows on larger needles = 10 x 10 cm.
Pattern 1: 24 sts on smaller needles = approx. 10 cm wide.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Rib: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Knitting tips (for armhole):
All decs are made from right side. Dec inside 5 edge sts knit as follows from edge (seen from the right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1. Dec 1 st as follows:After 5 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 5 edge sts: K 2 tog.
Note: on wrong side rows P the 6th st from edge.

Body:
Cast on 180-204-228-252-276 sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit Pattern 1 for 20 cm, change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern 2 to finished measurements. Put a marker in one of the knit sts at each side (there will be P 5 on each side of each marker and 89-101-113-125-137 sts between markers). When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34 cm knit 3 rows rib - see instructions above - over 15-15-23-23-31 sts at each side (7-7-11-11-15 sts at each side of marked sts) - start and end rib with P 1 (knit the remaining sts in Pattern 2 as before). Then bind off 5-5-13-13-21 sts at each side for armhole and knit each piece separately.

Front: = 85-97-101-113-117 sts.
Read the entire section before knitting:
Armhole: Dec 1 st at each side every other row 2-7-8-13-14 times - see knitting tips. Then continue with the 6 outermost sts knit as follows from edge: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1, K 1) to finished measurements.
Neckband: At the same time when the piece measures 35-37-38-40-41 cm bind off the center 13 sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 8 times. After all armhole and neck shaping is complete 19-20-21-22-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm.

Back: = 85-97-101-113-117 sts. Bind off for armhole as on front = 81-83-85-87-89 sts. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54 cm bind off the center 39 sts for the neck. Then dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 2 times = 19-20-21-22-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 120-130 sts around the neck on smaller circular needles. P 1 row, K 1 row, P 1 row, and then bind off with a knit row. Thread ribbon through the top row of holes in Pattern 1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from RS, purl from WS
	= purl from RS, knit from WS
	= yo
	= from right side: slip 1 as if to knit, K 2 tog, psso.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (29)

Claude Côté wrote:

Bonjour! Très beau modèle de chandail, Je suis rendue aux manches 3/4mais, Je voudrais juste confirmer, les manches sont bien faites en rond,sur 3 ou 4 broches? Merci beaucoup!

08.11.2022 - 15:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Côté et merci, les manches se tricotent en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes jusqu''à l'arrondi de la manche que l'on tricote en rangs, en allers et retours. Bon tricot!

08.11.2022 - 16:54

Anita Ahlström wrote:

Återkommer igen, förstår ingenting??? Stickar koftan i storlek XL, har lagt upp 275 maskor på rundsticka som det står i beskrivningen. Stämmer ända till jag delar arbetet för avmaskning för ärmhålen. Bägge framstyckena stämmer med maskantalet, men på bakstycket är det 22 maskor för mycket. Jag kan ej ha fel. HJÄLP, vill fortsätta att sticka. /Anita

07.11.2022 - 22:57

Hei Anita. Beklager, så på tallene på toppen i oppskrift. Koftan i str XL = 275 masker. Når du har delt forstykkene og bakstykket har du 125 masker på bakstykket. Du feller som forstykkene, men da på begge sider. Fell på hver 2.pinne: 3 masker 2 ganger = 6 masker på hver side, så 2 masker 3 ganger i hver side = 6 felte masker, deretter 1 maske 4 ganger = 4 masker i hver side. Da er det felt 16 masker i hver side. Altså: 125-16-16 = 93 masker. Når arb måler 56 cm felles de midterste 35 masker av til hals = 93-35= 58 masker = 29 masker på hver skulder. Videre felles det mot halsen på hver 2.pinne: 1 maske 2 ganger =27 masker på hver skulder. mvh DROPS Design

08.11.2022 - 08:25

Hej igen! Måste först be om ursäkt för att jag uppgett fel storlek på koftan (77-26). Jag stickar den i storlek XL och ej XXL. Allt stämmer men när jag delar arbetet och skall sticka var del för sig då blir det fel. Avmaskning för armhålan stämmer på båda framstyckena men ej på bakstycket, där jag får 22 maskor för mycket. Där har Ni skrivit fel. Ber än en gång om en förklaring. Mvh Anita

04.11.2022 - 18:32

Hei Anita. Ingen feil i oppskriften, men har du felt nok masker på bakstykket? I str. XL har du 252 masker og når du feller av til ermhull / ved deligen til for -og bakstykket, feller du 13 masker i hver side. Du har da 113 masker til forstykket og 113 masker til bakstykket. Så feller du til ermhull i hver side på bakstykket på hver 2. pinne 1 maske 13 ganger = 26 felte masker = 87 masker på pinnen. Når arbeidet måler 52 cm felles de midterste 39 maskene av til hals = 48 masker / 24 masker på hver side av halsfellingen. Videre felles det mot halsen på hver 2.pinne: 1 maske 2 ganger = 22 masker tilbake på hver skulder. mvh DROPS Design

07.11.2022 - 09:51

Hej igen! Väntar fortfarande på ett svar. Koftan jag håller på med är stickad i garnet Safran (mönster 77-26), storlek xxl. Allt stämmer ända till jag delar arbetet för avmaskning för ärmhålen. Bägge framstyckena stämmer, men ej bakstycket där jag har 22 m för mycket. Jag är van att sticka, så något är fel i mönstret. Måste få en förklaring snarast.. Vill sticka klart min kofta. Hjälp mig!!!!! Mvh Anita

04.11.2022 - 00:03

Hej Anita, jo vi skrev et svar 31/10. 299m = 74+7+137+7+74 masker. Du har 137 m. Minsker til ærmegab 3x3, 2x4, 1x4 =42 = 95 masker - hals 35 - 4 = 56/2 = 28 m på hver side :)

04.11.2022 - 10:47

Hej! Stickar koftan Drops nr 77-26, garn Safran, strl xxl.\\r\\nNär jag börja avmaska för ärmhålen på bakstycket får jag 22 m\\r\\nför mycket om det skall stämma med framstyckena som jag stickat. Jag är van att sticka, men hur jag än läser mönstret blir det fel. Har stickat flera linnen med samma mönster utan problem. HJÄLP!!!!! Orkar ej repa upp alla dessa maskor.\\r\\nMvh Anita

19.10.2022 - 13:24

Hei Anita. Husk å hake av for Spørsmål når du ønsker svar på noe og ikke en Kommentar. Kommentarer blir ikke besvart/kan ta lang tid for de besvares. På bakstykket feller du 3 masker 3 ganger i hver side = 9 masker = 18 felte masker = 137 – 18 = 119 masker på pinnen. Deretter feller du 2 masker 4 ganger i hver side = 8 masker = 16 felte masker = 119 – 16 = 103 masker. Så felles det 1 maske 4 ganger i hver side = 4 masker = 8 felte masker = 103 – 8 = 95 masker tilbake på pinnen. mvh DROPS Design

31.10.2022 - 14:14

Claudette Lachapelle wrote:

Les diminutions des manches......puis 3m jusqu’à 20 cm de hauteur totale. Est-ce 3mailles à diminuer de chaque côté jusqu’à obtenir 20 cm de hauteur ou seulement une fois de chaque côté et ensuite tricoter jusqu’à obtenir 20 cm de hauteur? Merci pour votre aide.

21.04.2021 - 19:35

Bonjour Mme Lachapelle, vous rabattez ensuite 3 mailles de chaque côté (= 3 mailles au début de chaque rang sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 20 cm de hauteur totale, veillez à bien ajuster la longueur pour que le nombre de fois soit le même de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

22.04.2021 - 07:45

Après les diminutions pour les manches -5,10,15,18,21 fois 1 m, puis 3 m jusqu’à 20 cm de hauteur totale. Ces 3 mailles à diminuer est-ce de chaque côté jusqu’à obtenir 20 cm de hauteur OU seulement 1 fois de chaque côté et ensuite tricoter pour obtenir 20 cm de hauteur. Merci pour votre aide.

21.04.2021 - 19:29

Hilary Smith wrote:

I have followed the instructions for the first buttonhole to the letter. The pattern recommends buttons that are 15mm in diameter. My hole is about 5mm in diameter. Please, exactly which button will pass through this hole? I bought my yarn at the beginning of lockdown when the recommended buttons were out of stock, however I have one left over from another garment made a couple of years ago, and it doesn't even come close to going through the hole.

15.06.2020 - 19:20

Dear Mrs Smith, the buttonholes are not supposed to be that large and texture should be elastic enough to let the button go through, but you can of course make another kind of buttonhole if you like to. Trying on a swatch before can help. Happy knitting!

16.06.2020 - 08:54

Milly wrote:

Now I understand. Thank you so much for your speedy response!

20.05.2020 - 17:29

The instructions say to cast on 203 stitches for the small size and to retain 4 stitches at each end for the buttonhole band. However the pattern has 12 stitches: 203 is not divisible by 12 or even by 12 + 8 for the buttonhole band. The same applies to the other sizes. Please clarify. Thank you.

19.05.2020 - 14:58

Dear Milly, work the 203 sts as follows: 4 sts front band sts, repeat the 12 sts in M.1 a total of 16 times in width (= over the next 192 sts), then work the first 3 sts in M.1 and finish with the 4 front band sts. Pattern will be then symetrical on each side. Happy knitting!

19.05.2020 - 15:44