Fisherman by DROPS Design

Knitted Pippi sweater for men with shawl collar and sripes, in DROPS Snow. Sizes S to XXXL.

DROPS 135-27
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-400
Yarn group E
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-110-120-130-142 cm / 34 5/8’’-38½’’-43 3/8’’-47¼’’-51’’-55¾’’
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
Color no 47m, light beigemix:
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g
Color no. 40m, brown mix:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g
Color no 50m, dark rose mix:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 8 mm / US 11- or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 7 mm/ US 10½ - for rib.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagram M.1 - diagram is worked in stockinette st.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YOs twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front, to avoid holes.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 96-108-120-132-144-156 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ with light beige mix. Work rib = K 3/P 3 for 3 cm / 1 1/8’’. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and K 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 48-54-60-66-72-78 sts (these marks the sides). Continue with diagram M.1 until finished measurements.
When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6’’-6¼’’-6¾’’-7’’-7½’’-8’’, dec 1 st BEFORE both markers by K 2 tog = 94-106-118-130-142-154 sts.
Continue to work until piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾’’-10¼’’-10 5/8’’-11’’-11 3/8’’-11¾’’, now dec 1 st AFTER both markers by K 2 twisted tog = 92-104-116-128-140-152 sts.
When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm / 13¾’’-14¼’’-14½’’-15’’-15¼’’-15¾’’, inc 1 st BEFORE both markers - SEE INCREASE TIP! And when piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-17’’-17¼’’-17¾’’, inc 1 st AFTER both markers = 96-108-120-132-144-156 sts.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½’’-19’’-19¼’’-19¾’’-20’’-20½’’, work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work 14-17-20-22-25-28 sts, bind off 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts for neck, work 14-17-20-22-25-28 sts, bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 42-48-54-60-66-72 sts (= back piece), bind off 3 sts for armhole. Finish each part separately.

= 42-48-54-60-66-72 sts. Continue diagram M.1 - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 0-1-1-3-3-5 times = 42-46-48-50-52-54 sts remain on needle.
When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm / 25½’’-26 3/8’’-27 1/8’’-28’’-28¾’’-29½’’, bind off the middle 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts for neck. Finish each shoulder (= 12-14-15-15-16-17 sts) separately.
Bind off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’.

= 14-17-20-22-25-28 sts. Continue to bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm / 20’’-20½’’-21’’-21¼’’-21 5/8’’-22’’, bind off 1 st towards mid front for neck. Repeat bind off when piece measures 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm / 22”-22½”-22¾”-23¼”-23½”-24”.
After all bind offs are done, 12-14-15-15-16-17 sts remain on needle. Bind off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’-30¾’’ - NOTE: bind off on same row in pattern as on back piece.

Work as right front piece but reversed.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 30-30-30-36-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10½ with light beige mix. Work rib = K 3/P 3 for 7 cm / 2¾’’. Switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11, work 1 round in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-2-2-6-4-2 sts evenly = 26-28-28-30-32-34 sts. Continue with diagram M.1. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. When piece measures 14 cm / 5½’’, inc 1 st on each side of marker under sleeve. Repeat inc every 6-6-5-4-4-4 cm / 2 3/8”- 2 3/8”-2”-1½”-1½”-1½” a total of 7-7-8-9-9-9 times = 40-42-44-48-50-52 sts. When piece measures 54-53-52-51-50-49 cm / 21¼”-21”-20½”-20”-19¾”-19¼” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve. Then continue back and forth on needle - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1-2-3-4-4-5 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 59 cm / 23¼”’’, then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 61 cm / 24” for all sizes. ´

Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

Beg mid front on left side of sts bind off for neck. Pick up on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ with light beige mix: 24 to 30 sts up to shoulder, then pick up 20 to 24 sts in back of neck and finally 24 to 30 sts down along left side of neck = 68 to 84 sts. (Do not knit up sts in front of neck where sts were bind off.)
K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 70-74-78-82-86-90. Continue to K back and forth until edge measures approx. 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3”-3”-3”-3½”-3½”-3½”. On next row from RS inc 12 sts evenly as follows:
K 13-15-17-19-21-23 sts, * make 1 YO, K 4 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 12 times, K the rest of row (= 9-11-13-15-17-19 sts). On next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes = 82-86-90-94-98-102 sts.
Continue to K back and forth until edge measures 11-11-12-12-14-14 cm / 4½”-4½”-4¾”-4¾”-5½”-5½”. Loosely bind off. Place the collar double at the bottom of neck opening and sew it to the neck line through both layers.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light beigemix
symbols = dark pink
symbols = brown mix

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Marie wrote:

Hallo. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit 2 Größen zu kombinieren? Die Schultermaße entsprechen der Größe L, während für den Rest des Pullovers Größe S ausreicht. Kann man diese Anleitung an die Maße anpassen? Über einen Tipp würde ich mich freuen. Vielen Dank für die Antwort im Voraus. Liebe Grüße

03.03.2022 - 16:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen; Sie können aber wahrscheinlich die Breite der Größe S folgen und die Länge der Größe L (aber anpassen, daß das Armloch genauso ist, wie Sie es möchten, entweder 21 cm wie in S oder 23 cm wie in L. Mehr Wolle brauchen Sie dann. Gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.03.2022 kl. 10:25

country flag Richard York wrote:

Hi, I know different wool yarns can work with this sweater, but would it work in cotton yarn? I have some nice Aran weight equivalent cotton yarn I'd like to try on it. Thanks for your help.

13.03.2020 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Richard, this sweater would work well with any yarn from the yarn group E, or yarns that could knit with the given gauge. However, the pattern is designed and offered free to support DROPS yarns, and I hope you will understand that we cannot advise you on using a different brand. Happy Knitting!

14.03.2020 kl. 22:04

country flag Stefanie Boucher wrote:

Bonsoir Je suis en train de refaire ce pull pour mon mari. J'avais abandonné ce modèle car j'ai eu un gros soucis avec les manches !!! J'ai tricoté les manches avec des aiguilles droites car je n'arrive pas avec les aiguilles doubles pointes. Du coup à la fin je me suis retrouvée avec les coutures au dessus du bras. Pourriez vous m'expliquer comment puis-je tricoter les manches avec des aiguilles droites Svp ? Merci

15.12.2019 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boucher, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Dans le cas des manches, vous devrez augmenter en début de rang + en fin de rang, ainsi, la couture se fera au milieu sous la manche. Bon tricot!

16.12.2019 kl. 08:55

country flag Boucher Stefanie wrote:

Bonjour Je suis actuellement en train de faire ce pull et ça fait au moins 6 fois que je le recommence 😕 En fait, j'ai un soucis quand j'arrive au niveau de l'encolure et des emmanchures. Il y a marqué qu'il faut rabattre 3 m, tricoter 20 mailles, rabattre 14 m , tricoter 20m , rabattre 6m , tricoter 54m pour le dos et ensuite rabattre 3 c'est là que ça coince à chaque fois. Comment fait on ?

02.01.2018 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stephanie, en fait si tu fais ca, tu auras 3 parties qui seront travaillees separement de ce moment: le dos, le devant droit et le devant gauche. Les mailles restantes seront deposees sur une/deux aiguilles auxiliaires (ou fils). Bon tricot!

02.01.2018 kl. 16:35

country flag Vanessa wrote:

Bonjour, Je voudrais faire ce modèle pour mon mari (cadeau de Noel) mais je vais utiliser une laine qui fait 100g et 140 m, c'est à dire assez différentes de celle proposée par le patron (50g et 50 m). Pourriez-vous me dire qu'elle est le métrage exacte de laine pour ce modèle s'il vous plait? car le modèle précise les fournitures en g. Merci Une fan de votre site

25.09.2016 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Vanessa, vous trouverez ici toutes les informations utiles, pour toute assistance complémentaire, n'hésitez pas à contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Bon tricot!

26.09.2016 kl. 10:33

country flag Léa wrote:

Bonjour, je suis entrain de tricoter ce pull et je viens de finir le buste et le col, il me reste les manches. Par contre je ne comprends pas comment coudre le col, auriez vous une vidéo pour que je comprenne mieux ou quelque chose du genre? Merci d'avance. Léa.

02.03.2016 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Léa, nous n'avons pas de vidéo pour le col, je vais tâcher de reformuler: cousez la partie droite du col (quand le pull est porté) le long des mailles rabattues pour l'encolure (les rangs au point mousse du col contre les mailles rabattues), puis cousez la partie gauche du col sur l'envers, derrière la partie droite du col pour former le "croisé". Bon tricot!

02.03.2016 kl. 18:02

country flag Angela wrote:

I like this pattern, and have found a wool here in Canada at a local store that I could sub in. It would be helpful if the number of stitches at each point in the decreasing on the sleeves could be noted. Thanks!

17.12.2014 - 01:02

country flag Natalie wrote:

Die Angabe, dass das Vorder und Rückteil hin und zurück gestrickt wird, ist falsch. Es wird rund gestrickt.

11.12.2014 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Vielen Dank für den Hinweis, Sie haben natürlich Recht, der Fehler wird gleich behoben!

11.12.2014 kl. 13:59

country flag Tilia wrote:

Malgré les mesures, le modèle est trop serré pour une stature trapue (donc biscottée), notamment au niveau des emmanchures et des bras. Après un changement de col, le pull atterrit dans mon placard. Le côté juste au corps avec une laine souple me plaît assez. Petite modif suppl: motif remplacé par des rayures larges irrégulières sur deux tons de bleu.

02.11.2014 - 12:55

country flag Valia wrote:

Hello again! I a have started with this knitting project and the pattern directions are really helpful! However I dont't get the 'k2 twisted tog'. Could you please help me with this? thank you

04.10.2014 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Valia, please find below video showing how to work K2 twisted tog (ie work both sts in back of loop instead of front). Happy knitting!

04.10.2014 kl. 18:03

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