DROPS / 133 / 3

Milady by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest with yoke worked across with cables, short rows and crochet border in ”Nepal”. Size: S to XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no NE-062
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 32¼''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
Color no 501m, gray mix: 500-550-600-650-700-750 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5mm/ US 7.

DROPS METAL BUTTON NO 542: 7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

SHORT ROWS:
To make the yoke wider at the bottom, work more rows over the bottom sts than the upper sts. This is done as follows:
* Work 2 rows over all sts, work until 2nd marker, turn, tighten yarn and work back, work until 1st marker, turn, tighten yarn and work back *, repeat from *-*, i.e. 1 repetition = 2 rows at the top and 6 rows at the bottom.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows 1 repetition of pattern in width (= 24 sts), the diagram shows pattern from RS.
MEASURING TIP:
Measure when piece is flat, it is important not to stretch the piece when measuring.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, make 1 YO, work 2 sts (marker is between these 2 sts), make 1 more YO. On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).

BUTTON HOLES:
bind off for button holes on right band from WS. 1 BUTTON HOLE = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S and M: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm / 2 3/8", 5½", 8 3/4" and 11 3/4".
SIZE L and XL: 7, 16, 24 and 33 cm / 2 3/4", 6 1/4", 9½" and 13".
Size XXL and XXXL: 8, 17, 26 and 35 cm / 3 1/8", 6 3/4", 10 1/4" and 13 3/4".
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YOKE:
Worked back and forth on needle, worked sideways from mid front.
LOOSELY cast on 34-34-37-37-40-40 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 2 rows over all sts (1st row beg from bottom edge from RS).
Work next row as follows (from RS): K 12-12-14-14-16-16, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1, K 2 sts in each of the next 4 sts (= K 8), K 2, K 2 in each of the next 4 sts (= K 8), K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 6-6-7-7-8-8 = 42-42-45-45-48-48 sts.
Work next row (from WS) as follows: K 6-6-7-7-8-8, P 2, K 1, P 8, K 2, P 8, K 1, P 2 and K 12-12-14-14-16-16.
Insert 2 markers in the piece as follows (from RS): 1st marker after 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts and 2nd marker after a total of 33-33-35-35-37-37 sts, 9-9-10-10-11-11 sts remain at the top after 2nd marker. Then work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above and PATTERN as follows: 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, diagram M.1 over the next 24 sts and 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Work until piece measures approx. 120-128-138-150-162-174 cm / 47½"-50½"-54½"-59"-64"-68½"- at bottom edge – SEE MEASURING TIP – finish after 2 rows have been worked on all sts. Work next row as follows (from RS): K 15-15-17-17-19-19, K the next 8 sts tog 2 by 2, K 2, K the next 8 sts tog 2 by 2, K 9-9-10-10-11-11 = 34-34-37-37-40-40 sts. K 1 row over all sts, then bind off all sts with K from RS. Piece measures approx. 122-130-140-152-164-176 cm / 48"-51"-55"-59½"-64½"-69" at bottom edge.

INSERTING MARKERS:
Remove the markers in the piece and insert 4 new markers as follows: Place piece flat on a table and measure along the longest side. Insert 1st MARKER after 18½-20-21½-24-26½-29½ cm / 7¼"-8"-8½"-9½"-10½"-11½", 2nd MARKER 24-25-27-28-29-29 cm / 9½"-9¾"-10½"-11"-11¼"-11¼" from first, 3rd MARKER 37-40-43-48-53-59 cm / 14½"-15½"-17"-19"-21"-23½" from second and 4th MARKER 24-25-27-28-29-29 cm / 9½"-9¾"-10½"-11"-11¼"-11¼" from third, approx. 18½-20-21½-24-26½-29½ cm / 7¼"-8"-8½"-9½"-10½"-11½" remain after last marker.

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.
Cast on 5 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 (= band), then pick up 1 st in every ridge (1 ridge = 2 rows in garter st) at bottom edge of yoke until 1st marker (= approx. 30 to 49 sts on left front piece), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts (= under sleeve), skip to 2nd marker, pick up 1 st in every ridge until 3rd marker (= approx. 60 to 98 sts on back piece), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts (= under sleeve), skip to 4th marker, pick up 1 st in every ridge the rest of yoke (= approx. 30 to 49 sts on right front piece), cast on 5 new sts at end of row (= band).
K 1 row from WS while at the same time evenly adjusting no of sts to 150-160-174-190-210-232 (do not dec/inc over band sts). Insert 2 markers in the piece; 40-42-46-50-55-60 sts in from each side (= 70-76-82-90-100-112 sts between markers on back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work garter st over all sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of markers in the side - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4 cm / 1½'' a total of 3 times = 138-148-162-178-198-220 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8", bind off for BUTTON HOLES on right front band - see explanation above!
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', inc 1 st on each side of markers in the side - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 4 cm / 1½'' a total of 4 times = 154-164-178-194-214-236 sts. When piece measures approx. 36-38-38-40-40-42 cm / 14 1/4"-15"-15"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16½" loosely bind off all sts.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Pick up from RS, 1 st in each of the 5 sts cast on for band in the left side on needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work in garter st until band is approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' shorter than yoke (band needs to be stretched a little when fastened), bind off. Sew band to yoke, edge to edge.

RIGHT FRONT BAND:
Knit as left front band but when band measures 1 cm / 3/8'', bind off for 1 button hole over the other holes, repeat bind off for button hole when band measures 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8" and when only 4 rows remain before band is bound off.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet an edge along yoke, crochet in the bottom stitch on the garter st (i.e. in same st that was knit up for body). Hold piece with neck opening towards you, work with 1 strand Nepal on hook size 4.5mm/ US 7 – start mid front as follows: 1 sc in first st on inside of band, * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch, skip approx. 1.5 cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* until last st before band in the other side.
Steam the crochet border well to make it fold nicely downwards.

ASSEMBLY: Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS
= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
= K 2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 133-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Ana Maria 11.07.2019 - 02:11:

Hola este modelo es hermoso, podría adaptarlo para niña de 3 a 4 años? Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 08:33:

Hola Ana Maria, el patron que perece similar pero es para ninos: ESTA AQUI. Buen trabajo!

Joanna 02.04.2019 - 16:27:

Do you work the set of 6 short rows repeats throughout the yoke? If so, how does this blend with M1 pattern stitches? Do you skip the pattern stitches that are omitted by the short rows or ?? Thanks for any help. I want to knit on plane tomorrow.

DROPS Design 03.04.2019 kl. 08:31:

Dear Joanna, you work *2 rows over all stitches (including M.1, ie row 1 and row 2 in M.1), then work 2 rowz over the 33-33-35-35-37-37 sts (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts in garter stitch + the first 21 stitches in M.1 = row 3 and 4 in M.1), then work 2 rows over the first 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts (= the first 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts in garter st + the first 3 sts in M.1)*, repeat from *-* until yoke is finished, but continue working M.1 so that the first cable is worked on 3rd row worked on these stitches and then every 6th row. Happy knitting!

Xenia 12.01.2019 - 02:28:

No entiendo absolutamente nada. Normalmente veo los patrones en inglés, lo imprimí en inglés y nada. Lo he impreso en español y sigo sin entender, he visto todos los vídeos y es imposible. No es claro.

Francesca 13.01.2017 - 13:39:

Buongiorno, ho provato a lavorare come mi avete detto ma se lavoro i ferri accorciati come da modello, devo girare il lavoro in mezzo allo schema M.1. L'unico modo per evitarlo è lavorare fino a 3 maglie dopo il 2° segnapunti e non fino al 2° segnapunti come indicato , girare e lavorare fino alla fine del lavoro, girare e lavorare fino a 3 maglie prima del 1° segnapunti e non fino al 1° segnapunti come indicato, girare e lavorare fino alla fine, ripetere, ecc. E' corretto? Grazie, Francesca

DROPS Design 13.01.2017 kl. 22:29:

Buonasera Francesca. Le indicazioni sono corrette. Se però come risultato finale preferisce quello che ottiene lavorando come ha indicato lei, può proseguire in questo modo. Buon lavoro!

Francesca 10.01.2017 - 12:41:

Buongiorno, una domanda, i ferri accorciati si lavorano insieme allo schema M. 1. Se si, lavoro 2 ferri su tutte le m (inizio dal rovescio?), poi lavoro fino al 2° segnapunti sul rovescio (cioè il 1° inserito sul diritto?), giro e torno indietro (fino alla fine?), lavoro fino al 1° segnapunti sul rovescio (cioè il 2° inserito sul diritto?) giro e torno indietro (fino alla fine?). I ferri accorciati li lavoro di seguito per tutta la lavorazione dello sprone? Grazie francesca

DROPS Design 10.01.2017 kl. 12:58:

Buongiorno Francesca. Lavora i ferri accorciati insieme al diagramma M.1. Il primo ferro dei ferri accorciati è sul diritto del lavoro: posiziona i segni senza lavorare il ferro. Quindi la posizione corretta dei segnapunti è quella sul diritto del lavoro. Lavora tutto lo sprone con ferri accorciati. Buon lavoro!

Beatrice Lüthi 17.08.2016 - 15:33:

Eine Frage....strickt man das wunderschöne Gilet von unten her und wenn ja was bedeuten die Passen und Blenden.....wunderschöne Wolle aber eher komplizierte Anleitung! Hat das im deutschsprachigen Gebiet bereits jemand gestrickt?Danke für eine kurze Antwort!freundliche Grüsse....Beatrice Lüthi

DROPS Design 18.08.2016 kl. 08:47:

Hallo Frau Lüthi, die Passe ist der obere Teil und die Blende ist die Knopfleiste. In der Anleitung finden Sie beschrieben, wie gestrickt wird: zunächst wird die Passe quer gestrickt, der Rest wird von oben nach unten (an)gestrickt.

Kirsten Petersen 25.01.2016 - 14:20:

Hvor tit skal forkortede pinde strikkes, dvs. vendestrik til 1. og 2. mærke, dette er ikke nævnt i opskriften. I tredie afsnit under bærestykke, står der hvordan man strikker frem og tilbage til 1. og 1. mærke hvorefter mønster kommer 12 retstrik se forkl. over, M.1 over de næste 24 masker og 6 retstrik, men der er intet nævnte hvor tit man skal lave FORKORTEDE PINDE, er det efter hvert diagram M1 som går over 12 pinde.

DROPS Design 27.01.2016 kl. 15:44:

Hej Kirsten, De forkortede pinde strikker du hele vejen rundt ifølge FORKORTEDE PINDE: For at bærestk skal blive videre i nederkanten skal der strikkes flere pinde over de nederste m i forhold til de øverste, dette gøres således: * Strik 2 p over alle m, strik til 2.mærke, vend, stram tråden og strik tilbage, strik til 1.mærke, vend, stram tråden og strik tilbage *, gentag fra *-*, dvs at 1 rapport = 2 p øverst og 6 p nederst. God fornøjelse!

Sarah 21.10.2015 - 17:26:

Wird das Muster M1 nur in den Hinreihen gestrickt? Wenn ja, auch wenn die Reihe nicht komplett gestrickt wird, also z.B. nur vom Reihenanfang bis zur 1., oder zur 2. Markierung?

DROPS Design 30.10.2015 kl. 09:42:

M.1 zeigt alle R, also auch die Rück-R. Hier steht, an welcher Stelle Sie M.1 in der R stricken: "12-12-14-14-16-16 M. KRAUSRIPPE – siehe oben, M1 über die nächsten 24 M. und 6-6-7-7-8-8 M. Krausrippe." M.1 wird also nur 1x komplett in der R gestrickt, die restlichen M werden kraus re gestr.

Patricia 23.09.2015 - 19:58:

Necesito ayuda!!!! Durante las vueltas cortas que punto se realiza xq en la foto no se ven las vueltas cortas y si se sigue el patron y las vueltas cortas es hasta el segundo mp queda cortado el dibujo!!! Aguardo respuesta gracias!!!!

DROPS Design 29.09.2015 kl. 11:12:

Hola Patricia. El patrón es correcto, es decir se trabajan al mismo tiempo las trenzas y las vtas acortadas. Te recomiendo hacer una muestra de M.1 con vtas acortadas antes de comenzar el chaleco

Francesca 21.09.2013 - 22:30:

I just finished to knit it and it turned out so nice!

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