DROPS / 128 / 26

Sunny Season by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS bikini with fan edge in ”Safran”. Size: XS - XL.

DROPS design: Pattern no E-174
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BIKINI BOTTOMS:
Size: XS - S - M - L - XL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100 g color no 17, white

BIKINI TOP:
Size: XS - S - M - L - XL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50-100 g color no 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 26 sc x 28 rows (24 dc x 13 rows) = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:

SC ROW:
Start every row with ch 1 before continuing with sc in every st. NOTE! When inc on sc row, ch 2 at beg of row (instead of ch 1).

DECREASE ON SC ROW:
Dec 1 sc in each side on a row as follows: Work 1 sc, * insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-*, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook. Then work 1 sc in every st until 3 sts remain on row, repeat dec in the next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st.

DC ROW:
Start every row with ch 3 before continuing with dc in every st.

DECREASE ON DC ROW:
Dec 1 dc in each side on a row as follows: Work 1 dc, * make a YO, insert hook in next st, get yarn, make a YO and pull yarn through the first 2 sts on hook *. Repeat from *-*, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook. Then work 1 dc in every st until 3 sts remain on row, repeat dec in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in last st.

INCREASE:
Inc 1 st in each side on a row as follows: Work 2 sts in first st. Work 1 st in every st until 1 st remains, work 2 sts in last st.

FAN PATTERN 1: See diagram M.1 (no of sts can be divided by 6 + 1)
ROW 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st on row, * skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Finish with 1 sc in last st, turn piece.
ROW 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in first sc on row, * 1 sc in the middle dc of the 5 dc from previous row, 5 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Finish with 1 sc in the middle dc of the 5 dc from previous row, 3 dc in last sc on row, turn piece.
ROW 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc on row, * 5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in the middle dc of the 5 dc from previous row *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Finish with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

FAN PATTERN 2: See diagram M.2. (no of sts can be divided by 4 + 1)
ROW 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st on row, * skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Finish with 1 sc in last st, turn piece.
ROW 2-3: Work as 2nd and 3rd row in FAN PATTERN 1.
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BIKINI BOTTOMS:
Start at top of front piece and work the bottom in one piece. Ch 55-61-67-73-79 + ch 3 to turn with on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in every ch on row = 55-61-67-73-79 dc (no of sts can be divided by 6 + 1), turn piece - READ DC ROW.
Continue to work as follows: * Dec 1 dc in each side on next row - READ DECREASE ON DC ROW, work another dc row *. Repeat from *-* one more time = 51-57-63-69-75 dc (5 dc rows).
Now continue with sc - READ SC ROW - while AT THE SAME TIME dec on 1st sc row 1 sc in each side - READ DECREASE ON SC ROW. Repeat dec in each side on every other row a total of 10-10-9-10-12 times = 31-37-45-49-51 sc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Then dec 1 sc in each side on every row a total of 6-8-12-12-12 times = 19-21-21-25-27 sc. Continue to work sc rows.
When piece measures 19-21-23-24-26 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9½"-10 1/4", back piece begins and now piece is measured from here.
Continue and now start to inc 1 sc in each side - READ INCREASE. Repeat inc as follows: Inc 1 sc in each side on every row a total of 0-0-4-4-6 times, on every other row a total of 22-26-26-27-27 times, on every 4th row 3-1-0-0-0 times = 69-75-81-87-93 sc.
Now work dc rows until finished measurements.
After a dc row work as follows: * Inc 1 dc in each side on next row, work another dc row *. Repeat from *-* one more time = 73-79-85-91-97 dc (no of sts can be divided by 6 +1).
Continue to work dc rows until back piece measures 24-24-24-25-26 cm / 9½"-9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4", do not cut the yarn.

FAN EDGE AND TIES:
Work row 1-3 in Fan pattern 1 - READ EXPLANATION ABOVE. Then repeat 2nd row: 0-0-0-1-1 time, do not cut the yarn. Then chain for approx. 28-29-30-32-34 cm / 11"-11½"-11 3/4"-12½"-13½". Turn piece and work 1 sl st in every ch, cut yarn and fasten the end. Work another tie the same way and fasten it to the other corner of the fan edge.
Work the fan edge and the ties the same way on front piece.

BIKINI TOP:
Ch 23-25-28-31-32 on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran. Worked back and forth on both sides of the ch row that will be in the middle. Work first row as follows: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in every ch until 1 ch remains on row, work 3 sc in the last ch, then work 1 sc in every ch on the other side of the ch row = 45-49-55-61-63 sc on row. Insert a marker in the middle sc (= 22-24-27-30-31 sc on each side of sc with marker). Turn piece.
Work next row as follows: * Work 1 sc in every sc the entire row but work 3 sc in st with marker (= the middle st) *. Repeat from *-* until a total of 6-7-9-11-14 rows have been worked = 55-61-71-81-89 sc on row (= 27-30-35-40-44 sc on each side of sc with marker).
Then work 3 dc rows as follows: * 1 dc in every st the entire row but work 3 dc in st with marker (= the middle st) *. Repeat from *-* 2 more times but on last dc row work 5 dc in st with marker (instead of 3 dc) - while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-2-0-0 sts evenly on row = 65-73-81-89-97 dc (no of sts can be divided by 4 + 1).
Then work 1st row in Fan pattern 2 - READ EXPLANATION ABOVE, insert a marker in the middle sc (mid on top of cup). Then work 2nd row in M.2 but work 5 dc, ch 1, 5 dc in sc with marker (instead of 5 dc). Then work 3rd row in fan pattern (= RS), work 5 dc in the top ch from previous row. Fasten off.
Crochet another cup the same way.

FAN EDGE AND TIES IN THE SIDE:
Chain for approx. 37-38-39-41-43 cm / 14½"-15"-15 1/4"-16"-17" (= right tie) on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran. Continue to work 34-36-38-44-50 sc at the bottom along the edge of the cup (work in front loop of st from RS). Then chain for 2 cm / 3/4'', continue to work 34-36-38-44-50 sc at the bottom along the edge of the other cup (from RS). Then chain for approx. 37-38-39-41-43 cm / 14½"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-17" (= left tie). Turn piece.
On next row work sc in every st the entire row, turn piece.
On next row (= last row) work sl st in every sc for approx. 17-18-19-21-23 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8 1/4"-9", then work 1st row in M.2 (start with 1 sc) until approx. 17-18-19-21-23 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8 1/4"-9" remain of ch row, work sl st in every sc the entire row. Fasten off.

TIES AROUND THE NECK:
Chain for approx. 48-49-50-52-54 cm / 19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4" on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran. Turn piece, work 1 sl st in every ch, then work 1 sl st in the middle dc of the 5 dc mid on top of cup. Turn piece, work 1 sl st in same st and then work 1 sl st in every ch on the other side of ch row. Fasten off. Work the same way and fasten in the other cup.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.07.2011
BIKINI BOTTOMS:
.....Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in every ch on row = 55-61-67-73-79 dc...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= sc
= dc
= ch
= row 1
= row 2
= row 3
= start

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 128-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Karen Monge 01.04.2019 - 08:10:

Según entendí, en talla S, después de las 5 vueltas de P.A 10 filas de P.B con disminución al inicio y al final=31P.B Pero luego dice que haga 6 filas con disminuciones al inicio y al final ¿Entonces en total son 16 filas iguales?

DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 14:50:

Hola Karen. Si, en realidad hay 16 filas con disminuciones, pero las primeras 10 disminuciones trabajamos cada 2ª fila/vuelta ( mira el patrón) y las siguientes 6 disminuciones trabajamos CADA fila/vuelta.

JUDY GATES 30.07.2018 - 00:13:

This is a question about the bikini bottom...When the instructions say dec 1 sc each side, is that really 1 sc dec at the begining of each row? so you are really dec-ing 1 sc per row? It would also help if there were a diagram of the bikini bottom with measurements . Also I would like to know how many sc's in the with of the crotch area and how long is that strip? Thank you Judy

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 09:30:

Dear Mrs Gates, when decreasing 1 sc on each side you dec 2 sc per row - see how to decrease under DECREASE ON SC ROW. You first decrease every othere row then every row, after last dec you should have 19-21-21-25-27 sc. Happy crocheting!

Saretha Sandham 20.04.2018 - 07:31:

I haven't crocheted with a pattern in a long time and now I am trying to make this bikini for my daughter. I don't understand the instructions for decreasing on dc row. What does YO mean? Do I decrease the same as in the tutorial video or is it different for this pattern?

DROPS Design 20.04.2018 kl. 09:00:

Dear Mrs Sandham, YO means yarn over - decrease as explained in text ie as shown in videobelow. Happy crocheting!

Alicia 31.03.2017 - 09:55:

Is the back of the bikini bottom meant to be skimpier than the front or have I done something wrong?

DROPS Design 31.03.2017 kl. 13:32:

Dear Alicia, the front will be smaller than the back, as for any bikini bottom. Happy crocheting!

Marlene Foulk 09.03.2016 - 15:18:

How many inches will a size S-M-L-XL be for each cup on top?

DROPS Design 09.03.2016 kl. 17:43:

Dear Mrs Foulk, you can get the width of the cup for each size checking the number of rows worked and calculating with the tension ie 26 sc x 28 rows (24 dc x 13 rows) = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Happy crocheting!

KAMI 04.09.2015 - 00:36:

Hi, I made the top according to the instructions. I made both cups but am unable to complete the top of the bikini. The instructions given ended up having the top increase into a triangle but the fan pattern is only at the top. What is the trick to this?

DROPS Design 04.09.2015 kl. 09:44:

Dear Kami, fan border is worked along both sides of triangle. When working when working 2nd row, work 5tr, 1 ch 5 tr in dc with marker (and continue row to the end), and when working 3rd row of fan pattern work 5 tr in the top ch of previous row (= in the tip, mid on top of cup), and finish row. Happy crocheting!

Anagnostopoulou Magda 13.06.2015 - 00:14:

Hello!! I have a problem with the top. You say in the crochet info, dc row, that we start the rows with 1ch and if there is an increase then we do 2ch. In the pattern there is nothing like this. we start at once with dc. What am i gonna do? because the first time i did it with the chains i have at last more stiches, and i did it once again without chains but the shape of my crochet was not right. Please help!!!

DROPS Design 13.06.2015 kl. 10:30:

Dear Mrs Anagnostopoulou, this crochet info applies to the bikini trousers, not to the top. You crochet here a fundation ch then 1 dc in each dc along to the last ch, 3 dc in last ch, rotate and work 1 dc in the opposite side of fundation ch. Happy crocheting!

Magda 10.06.2015 - 15:07:

Hello!! I have a problem with the top. You say in the crochet info, dc row, that we start the rows with 1ch and if there is an increase then we do 2ch. In the pattern there is nothing like this. we start at once with dc. What am i gonna do? because the first time i did it with the chains i have at last more stiches, and i did it once again without chains but the shape of my crochet was not right. Please help!!!

Tanja 30.05.2015 - 19:04:

Was bedeutet 27x bei jeder 2.R. aufnehmen. Insgesamt muss man dann 54 R häkeln?

DROPS Design 30.05.2015 kl. 23:40:

Ja, ganz genau, so ist das zu verstehen. Weiterhin viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

Mariola 27.12.2014 - 21:40:

Can I ask for a translation in Polish

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