DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 128-25
DROPS design: Pattern no E-175
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: XS - S - M - L - XL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''
Full length: 67-69-71-73-75 cm / 26½"-27"-28"-28 3/4"-29½"

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-300-350-400-450 g color no 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 28 sts in M.1 = 10 cm / 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 3 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Women Tops Singletslace v-neck
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:

PATTERN:
M.1: Work the pattern back and forth. Start every row with ch 1, 1 sc in 1st ch on row, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch * = 1 repetition of M.1. Repeat from *-*, finish with ch 1 and 1 sc in last sc on row, turn piece. See diagram M.1.
M.2: Work the pattern in the round. See diagram M.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 2 sc as follows: Work M.1 until 2 sc remain (= no of sc to be dec) on row, finish row with ch 1 and 1 sc in next ch, turn piece = 2 sc dec at the end of row.
Decrease 1 sc as follows: Work M.1 until 1 sc remains (= no of sc to be dec) on row, finish row with ch 1 and 1 sc in last ch, turn piece = 1 sc dec at the end of row.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 repetition of M.1 in each side of piece as follows: Work 2 repetitions of M.1 in first and last ch on row = 2 new sc.
Inc 1 repetition of M.1 on each side of marker as follows: Work 2 repetitions of M.1 in ch on both sides of marker = 2 new sc.

--------------------------------------------------------

FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth in one, with opening in the left side. Start below the chest and work the top upwards. Ch 210-232-254-282-316 (= 209-231-253-281-315 ch + 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran.
Work first row (= RS) as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 1, skip ch 1, 1 sc in next ch *. Repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with ch 1 and 1 sc in last ch = 105-116-127-141-158 sc. Insert a marker from RS in ch after the 53rd-58th-64th-71st-79th sc (front piece is to the right of the marker = 53-58-64-71-79 sc), turn piece. NOTE: Move the marker upwards when working. On next row, work chart M.1 - See explanation above, turn piece. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work like this until piece measures 5-5-5-6-7 cm / 2"-2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4". On next row from RS, inc 4 repetitions of M.1 as follows: Inc 1 repetition of M.1 in each side of piece and inc 1 repetition of M.1 on both sides of marker (= 4 new sc on row) - Read INCREASE TIP.
Repeat inc when piece measures 10-10-10-12-14 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-5½" = 113-124-135-149-166 sc (front piece = 57-62-68-75-83 sc). Continue until piece measures 15-16-17-18-19 cm / 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½". On next row from WS, continue as follows: Work M.1 until 2 sc remain on row, finish with 1 ch and 1 sc in next ch, turn piece (= 1st dec of 2 sc on front piece - Read Decrease tip). There are now 55-60-66-73-81 sc to the right of the marker.
Then start the armhole, and finish left and right side of front piece separately.

LEFT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE:
Work the first row (= RS) as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in next ch on row, work 23-25-28-32-35 repetitions of M.1, turn piece = 24-26-29-33-36 sc on row. Work next row (= WS) as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st ch on row, work M.1 until 2 sc remain on row, finish with ch 1 and 1 sc in next ch (= 2 sc dec), turn piece = 22-24-27-31-34 sc on row.
Dec 2 sc at the end of row like this on 3-3-3-3-3 more rows = 16-18-21-25-28 sc. Then dec 1 sc at the end of row - Read Decrease tip - until 6-6-7-9-10 sc remain on row. Continue to work M.1 until piece measures 34-36-38-40-42 cm / 13 3/8"-14 1/4"-15"-15 3/4"-16½" from armhole (= shoulder strap). Fasten off.

RIGHT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE:
Pick up the yarn in the 26th-28th-31st-35th-38th sc to the right of the marker. Work the right part the same way as left part of front piece. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder straps edge to edge on each side of back piece.

SKIRT:
Worked in the round top down from cast on edge on front and back piece. Work on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran at the bottom of left back piece as follows: Pick up the yarn in 1st ch and ch 1. Then work 1 sc in every ch along the edge of back and front piece, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc = 209-231-253-281-315 sc on the round, then work in the round.
Work next round as follows: ch 3, work dc in every sc - while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 220-240-260-280-320 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Work next round as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st dc, * ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Finish round with ch 3 and 1 sl st in 1st sc. Then work M.2 in the round - See diagram, beg of round is marked with an arrow. Continue until M.2 has been worked 2 times vertically. Then work 1st round in M.2 (round marked with arrow) one more time, fasten off.

BAND IN THE LEFT SIDE WITH BUTTON HOLES:
Work from RS back and forth up along the side on left front piece. Start at the bottom of left front piece (above the skirt) as follows: Pick up the thread in 1st row, ch 1, then work 40-42-44-46-50 sc (sc in every row) along the edge up to armhole, turn piece. Work 2 more sc rows (1 sc in every sc, beg every row with ch1 ).
On next row (4th row) work button holes as follows: Work 4 sc, * skip 2 sc, ch 2, work 13-14-15-16-18 sc *. Repeat from *-* one more time, ch 2, skip 2 sc, finish with 4 sc. Then work sc rows, work 1 sc in every ch from 4th row. Continue until 7 sc rows have been worked. Fasten off.
Place the band over left back piece and sew it to the bottom edge with neat little stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left back piece.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work M.1 around the neck and armhole if a more even edge is desired.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sc
symbols = dc
symbols = ch
symbols = start
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 128-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (89)

country flag Bini wrote:

Hallo Drops!\r\nWie breit ist den ein Rapport M2?\r\nDanke & liebe Grüße aus Köln\r\nBirgit

17.07.2022 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bini, die Maschenprobe machen Sie im Muster M.1. M.2 passt dann auch. Wenn Sie trotzdem vorher wissen möchten, wie breit M.2 ist, nehmen Sie die mit der Maschenprobe ermittelte Nadelstärke und häkeln probeweise M.2 (am besten 3 Rapporte und dann den mittleren ausmessen). Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

25.07.2022 - 18:08

country flag Itziar wrote:

In the M.2 you said 3 chains and in the diagrame there are 4 ó 5. Could you tell me which of them are. Thank you

25.06.2022 - 11:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Itziar, M.2 is not explained in the text. The first row drawn is the last row before M.2, where you work 3 chain stitches between dc/sc. There are some small lines over the dc/sc, but these don't represent chain stitches; they are drawn to better adjust the pattern later on. Happy crocheting!

26.06.2022 - 13:10

country flag Dia Van Der Zaag wrote:

Erg moeilijk patroon om te begrijpen. Heb hem nu 3 x doorgelezen en snap niets van waar te beginnen, waar knopen etc moeten komen. Meer foto s zouden al behulpzaam zijn. Ik heb vaker van drops patronen gehaakt, maar van deze begrijp ik niets . Ook de instructie videos zeggen niets over het patroon zelf. Ik twijfel of ik hier aan moet beginnen ook al heb ik het garen in huis. HELP want ik vind hem wel heel mooi.

20.05.2021 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Dia,

Je begint het patroon bij de paragraaf 'VOORPAND EN ACHTERPAND'. Daar staat aangegeven hoeveel lossen je moet haken in jouw maat. Dan haak je de eerste toer op deze lossen. Je haakt eerst vanaf de buste naar boven toe. Je haakt heen en weer van de ene naar de ander zijnaad en je haakt patroon M.1. Het 'schootje' met het ananaspatroon haak je hier later aan vast van boven naar beneden.

21.05.2021 - 14:09

country flag Malou-Cheanne wrote:

Regn ikke med de størrelser. Jeg har lige lavet en i XS og prøver den nu. AAAALT for stor. Den gaber langt ved ryggen. Spild af flere dages arbejde.

17.07.2020 - 20:10

country flag Lucienne wrote:

Mijn top is erg mooi geworden, maar wat uit het patroon niet duidelijk wordt is dat alleen de voorkant verder omhoog wordt gehaakt en alleen de schouderbandjes aan de achterkant worden vastgemaakt. Er is daar ook geen foto van waaraan je het zou kunnen zien. Daardoor vond ik het lastig om zelf te bedenken.

17.07.2019 - 17:34

ELLEN LIEBERMAN wrote:

I would love to make this top, but just don't understand the instruction. What is the amount of stitches you need to start.? I looked for help in the videos, but there are only 4 which have nothing to do with this pattern. Help please!

12.11.2018 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lieberman, you first start in the middle of piece and work "yoke part" bottom up finishing each front piece separately. Then work the bottom edge (with pineaples) top down. You finish then with the button band on the left side and with a crocheted edge around neck and armholes. Happy crocheting!

13.11.2018 - 08:45

country flag Nayda Salgado wrote:

Good morning. I’m having problems understanding some of the instructions for pattern 128-25. It sttes that ithas 4 tutorials. However, I was not able to find those in your website. Can you advise where to find them? Thanks!

05.09.2018 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Nayda, You click on the link to the right of the photo, where it says 'Need help?' That takes you to the 4 videos mentioned. Happy crocheting!

06.09.2018 - 07:58

country flag Liz wrote:

Merci. Grace a votre reponse j ai pu passer l étape ! Je me lance dans le m2! Merci!!

27.05.2018 - 20:33

country flag Liz wrote:

Bonjour je fais et refais, mais impossible de passer du M1 au M2 j'ai bien fini le "débardeur", puis j'ai fait 209 ms, et ensuite je suis perdue, n' y aurait il pas un diagramme pour montrer ce qu'il faut faire entre ce point de l'ouvrage et le début de M2? merci

24.05.2018 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Liz, après les 209 ms, crochetez 1 rang de brides en ajustant à 220 B (= augmentez 11 brides à intervalles réguliers - voir ici). Crochetez ensuite: 1 ml, 1 ms dans la 1ère B, (3 ml, sautez 3 B, 1 ms dans la B suivante), répétez de (à) 54 fois au total, et terminez par 3 ml et 1 mc dans la 1ère ms = 55 arceaux. Crochetez ensuite 11 fois M.2 au total en largeur en commençant par le rang avec la flèche. Bon crochet!

25.05.2018 - 08:04

country flag Maria-Emma Forster wrote:

Hallo, die Erklärung der linken und rechten Seite des Vorderteils ist geschrieben worden. Wie werden diese am Rückenteil gehäkelt? Gleiche Abnahmen? Vielen Dank

27.07.2017 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Forster, wenn die Abnahmen für die Vorteile beginnen wird das Rückenteil nicht mehr gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.07.2017 - 08:18