DROPS design: Pattern no CL-004
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Waist: 66-72-78-88-98-110 cm / 26"-28½"-30 3/4"-34½"-38½-43½"
Hips: 86-92-96-108-118-130 cm / 34"-36 1/4"-37 3/4"-42½"-46½"-51"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
Color no 08, off white: 150-150-150-200-200-200 g
Color no 02, light blue: 100-100-150-150-150-150 g
Color no 60, ice blue: 100 g in all sizes
Color no 04, lilac: 50-50-50-100-100-100 g
Color no 01, light blue purple: 50-50-50-100-100-100 g

UNI-COLORED: If desired use 300-350-400-400-450-500 g in any color for a uni-colored skirt in Muskat.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3 mm / US 2or3 - or size needed to get 26 sts in zigzag pattern = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 23 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

ELASTIC: approx. 66-110 cm / 26"-44"

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 - M.7.

STRIPES IN RIDGES:
(1 repetition of M.2 vertically = 1 ridge (i.e 2 rounds in garter st))
4 ridges in light blue
2 ridges in ice blue
2 ridges in light blue purple
4 ridges in off white

STRIPES IN STOCKINETTE ST:
3 rounds in lilac
2 rounds in light blue purple
3 rounds in off white
3 rounds in ice blue
3 rounds in light blue
2 rounds in off white
3 rounds in lilac
5 rounds in light blue
3 rounds in ice blue
3 rounds in light blue purple
5 rounds in off white
Repeat stripe repetition until something else is stated.
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SKIRT:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 320-340-360-400-440-480 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with light blue.
Work diagram M.1 - See PATTERN (= 16-17-18-20-22-24 repetitions).
When M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 288-306-324-360-396-432 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue with M.2 AT THE SAME TIME work STRIPES IN RIDGES - see explanation above!
Then work M.3 1 time vertically over all sts (= 256-272-288-320-352-384 sts) AT THE SAME TIME start to work STRIPES IN STOCKINETTE ST - see explanation above!
Continue with M.4 over M.3.
When piece measures 29-31-33-35-37-39 cm / 11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4"-14½"-15 1/4" (finish after one whole repetition of M.4), work M.5 1 time vertically over all sts = 224-238-252-280-308-336 sts.
Continue with M.6 over M.5.
When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾'', finish the stripe pattern (finish after one whole repetition of M.6), switch to off white and work M.7 1 time vertically over all sts = 192-204-216-240-264-288 sts.
On next round, dec 40-40-38-38-38-36 sts evenly = 152-164-178-202-226-252 sts.
Then work in stockinette st and off white.
When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22'', P 1 round (= folding edge), then work in stockinette st for 2 cm / 3/4'' for inside edge before loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the edge double towards the WS and fasten with neat stitches. Leave a little opening to thread the elastic through.



Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round
K YO twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 128-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Blanca Oses wrote:

Hola ... quiero hacer una pregunta , la falda en circular no la he podido hacer , ya que cuando tejo el punto zigzag se va corriendo el dibujo .como lo puedo hacer 🙏gracias

07.03.2020 - 00:58:

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Blanca. Bajo el patrón tienes los vídeos que te pueden ayudar a realizar la prenda. Este tipo de faldas se trabajan en redondo con agujas circulares.

15.03.2020 kl. 22:08:

country flag Blanca Oses wrote:

Hola soy de chile .en el tejido circular se va corriendo el punto , ¿es así ?

04.09.2019 - 15:50:

country flag Lise Engebretsen wrote:

Hvordan strikke dette mønsteret i striper i glattstrikk flere farger, uten at det blir et hull ved begynnelsen/slutten av runden når en begynner med ny farge. Har sett instruksjonsvideoen, men hva gjør jeg når det er et kast etter første maske på pinnen/runden og et kast hel til slutt på runden?

30.05.2019 - 02:10:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lise, du har altid en maske ret imellem de 2 udtagninger i hver side af diagrammerne. Det vil du også have i starten af omgangen. Hvis du sætter et mærke imellem hver rapport (á 20 masker), så bliver det lettere for dig at se hvor du har udtagningerne og indtagningerne. God fornøjelse!

31.05.2019 kl. 11:41:

country flag Monica wrote:

Purtroppo sono all'inizio ed ho difficoltà a capire la sequenza

21.07.2016 - 18:10:

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monica, segua le indicazioni che le abbiamo dato e se ha ancora difficoltà ci riscriva. Buon lavoro!

21.07.2016 kl. 22:59:

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno, dopo aver lavorato 2 ferri di M1, lavoro i quattro colori a legaccio con M2, poi passo alla maglia rasata gli altri colori tutti con M3 Poi passo ad M4 finita la sequenza di colori? In caso affermativo, devo ripartire dai colori segnati per la maglia rasata? Quando inserisco M4 M5 etc? Grazie

21.07.2016 - 18:08:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. È corretto per M1 e M2. Lavora M3 una volta sola seguendo i colori per il motivo a maglia rasata. Ripete poi M4, seguendo i colori, fino alla misura indicata (p.es per la taglia S fino a 29 cm), lavora M5 una volta, poi ripete M6 fino alla misura indicata ( per la taglia S fino a 40 cm). Qui finiscono le righe; lavora M7 una volta con il colore panna. Finisce poi a maglia rasata sempre con il panna.Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

21.07.2016 kl. 19:48:

country flag Bonnamour Mireille wrote:

Comment réaliser les diminutions pour les hanches,j'288 mailles il doit m'en rester 252,le diagramme du modeles comporte plusieurs erreurs,que faire pour diminuer ces 36 mailles,merci de bien vouloir me guider et rester avec 252 mailles j'ai contacter le magasin drops et il n'on pu me renseigner comme je voius le dit il y a plein d'erreurs

28.01.2015 - 20:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bonnamour, après avoir tricoté M2 sur 288 m (taille S), vous tricotez M3 sur toutes les mailles soit 16 fois les 18 m de M3 en diminuant 16 x 2 m au 1er rang de M3, vous diminuez 32 m au total et il reste 256 m. Tricotez ensuite en suivant M4 et à 29 cm, tricotez M5 en diminuant 16 x 2 m (dans chaque motif) = 224 m. Bon tricot!

29.01.2015 kl. 09:05:

country flag Bonnamour Mireille wrote:

Comment lire les commentaires en français ,merci

10.01.2015 - 09:11:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bonnamour, vous pouvez utiliser un traducteur en ligne - si vous avez une question sur ce modèle, vous pouvez volontiers la poser ici, ou bien vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS ou encore au forum DROPS. Bon tricot!

10.01.2015 kl. 17:38:

Elena wrote:

Do you work each scheme only once vertically before you move to the next one(m1-m2-m3-m4-m5-m6)or work few times each one vertically and only then pass to the next?thank you

07.02.2014 - 17:45:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elena, work first M1 1 time then M2 until all stripes in garter sts are done, then M3 1 time at the same time follow stripes in stocking st, then continue with M4 and stripes in st st until piece measures 29-39 cm (see size) - adjust after last row in M4, work then M5 1 time, and continue with M6 until piece measures 40-50 cm, then work M7 1 time and continue in stocking st. Happy knitting!

07.02.2014 kl. 17:54:

Maria wrote:

I like this pattern very much. Could you please make this model, using the wool with needles nr.5 or 6? It would be also great if you would add to the description, how many times is each pattern supposed to be knitted. I've read it both in French and English and I'm pretty confused :)))

13.10.2013 - 17:13:

country flag Hannah wrote:

Håller med Ing-Marie och engelska Marie, svårt att riktigt förstå mönsterbeskrivningen. Det kanske kunde stå tydligare att M3 och de andra "minskningsvarven" endast stickas 1 gång, för att man sedan ska mata på med M4 och de andra "matarvarven? Hoppas nu att jag fattat!

08.04.2013 - 19:10:

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