DROPS / 130 / 12

Chevron Shrug by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and short rows in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL.

  • Chevron Shrug / DROPS 130-12 - Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and short rows in Paris. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Chevron Shrug / DROPS 130-12 - Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and short rows in Paris. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Chevron Shrug / DROPS 130-12 - Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and short rows in Paris. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no W-411
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Size: S/M - M/L - XL - XXL/XXXL

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450g color no 58, powder pink

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 (= 11 sts). The diagram shows the pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. In size S/M and M/L inc inside first garter st (= + 1 st per inc row). In size XL and XXL/XXXL inc inside first garter st and after first st in stockinette st section after M.1 (= + 2 sts per inc row).
See measurement chart. When working in garter st inc are made with 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
When working in stockinette st inc are made by working 2 sts in the same st.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS. In size M/L dec inside first garter st (= -1 st per dec row).
In size XL and XXL/XXXL dec inside first garter st and 1 st after first st in stockinette st section (= -2 sts per dec row).
Dec by K 2 sts tog.

MEASURING TIP: All length measurements are done along the shorter side.
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The jacket is knitted in 3 parts. Two edge pieces that are worked from mid back and up to mid back of neck. These are sewn tog in a circle and then sewn to the back piece - see chart X.1. Sleeves are knitted and sewn in at the end.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 57-63-69-75 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle 5 mm/ US 8 with Paris. Work in garter st - see explanation above - for 3-3-2-2 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4". Then work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, 7-9-11-13 sts in stockinette st, diagram M.1 (= 11 sts), * 4-5-6-7 sts in stockinette st, M.1 (= 11 sts) *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, 7-9-11-13 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st.
Continue the pattern as this. When piece measures 10 cm/ 4" inc 1 st in 2nd st of every stockinette st section (inc by picking up 1 st from previous row and knitting it in stockinette st) = 61-67-73-79 sts.
Work a total of 4-4-5-5 repetitions of M.1 vertically. Then continue in garter st until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22-22-24-24 cm/8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9½"-9½" bind off the middle 23-25-27-31 sts for neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to dec 1 st on the next row towards the neckline = 18-20-22-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 24-24-26-26 cm / 9½"-9½"-10 1/4"-10 1/4".

RIGHT EDGE PIECE:
Cast on 39-41-43-46 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle 5 mm/US 8 with Paris. Work as follows -from RS: 3 sts in garter st, 2 sts in reverse stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st, 4 sts in garter st, M.1 (= 11 sts), 6-8-10-13 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 6 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the pattern as this.
When piece measures 10 cm/ 4", on next row from RS inc 1-1-2-2 sts - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat the inc every 4th row a total of 3-5-5-7 times = 42-46-53-60 sts (when all inc are done the pattern will be as follows - seen from RS: 6-8-810 sts in garter st, 2 sts in reverse stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st, 4 sts in garter st, M.1 (= 11 sts), 6-8-15-20 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 6 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st).
When piece measures 17-19-21-22 cm/ 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" work short rows as follows beginning from RS:
* 2 rows over the first 16-18-18-20 sts (i.e. 6-8-8-10 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st with WS out, 2 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st, 4 sts in garter st),
2 rows over the first 27-29-29-31 sts (i.e. 6-8-8-10 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st with WS out, 2 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st, 4 sts in garter st, M.1 (= 11 sts)),
2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 29-32-35-37 cm / 11 3/8"-12½"-13 3/4"-14½" - READ MEASURING TIP.
Continue to work over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-1-2-2 sts at the beg of every 4th row on the right side (from RS) a total of 0-2-3-5 times - READ DECREASE TIP! = 42-44-47-50 sts (after all dec there are 6-6-5-5 sts in garter st towards mid front). When piece measures 45-48-51-53 cm / 17 3/4"-19"-20"-21"- adjust after 1 hole repetition of M.1 - bind off the outermost 18-20-22-23 sts in the left side for shoulder (bind off at the beg of row from WS, work rest of row) = 24-24-25-27 sts remain for neckline. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work as follows from RS: 6-6-5-5 sts in garter st, 2 sts in reverse stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st, 4 sts in garter st, 8-8-10-12 sts in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME work short rows with beg from RS as follows: * 2 rows over the first 12-12-11-11 sts, 2 rows over all sts *. Bind off when edge measures 8-8-9-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-4" (measured from the shorter side).

LEFT EDGE PIECE:
Cast on and work as right edge piece but reversed (i.e. knit as follows - from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 6 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 6-8-10-13 sts in stockinette st, M.1 (11 sts), 4 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st, 2 sts in reverse stockinette st, and 3 sts in garter st).

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 50-52-54-56 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle 5 mm/US 8 with Paris. Work 4 rows in garter st, then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-12-14-12 sts evenly = 64-64-68-68 sts. Continue in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc on every row from RS a total of 7 times = 78-78-82-82 sts. When piece measures 10 cm / 4" bind off for sleeve top 5 sts at beg of every row a total of 3 times in each side = 48-48-52-52 sts. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece now measures approx. 13 cm / 5 1/8".

ASSEMBLY:
See X.1. Sew the edge pieces tog in bottom edge (E to E) and sew the neckline tog (D to D). Fasten the edge piece tog by sewing the shoulder seams (C to C) and edge pieces to the bottom and top edge of back piece (G to G) and (F to F). Sew the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew in the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = back piece
symbols = edge piece
symbols = shoulder
symbols = neckline, mid back
symbols = mid back, bottom
symbols = back
symbols = neckline
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 130-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Fanny 17.02.2017 - 18:37:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas de quelle manire faire les rangs raccourcis de la bordure devant gauche pour avoir l'arrondi en face à face. Pourriez-vous me dire aps quelles mailles tourner? Merc d'avance!

user icon DROPS Design 20.02.2017 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Fanny, les rangs raccourcis se tricotent sur le devant gauche comme sur le devant droit, mais en sens inverse, c'est-à-dire en commençant sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

country flag Sally Ramsay 11.06.2016 - 19:07:

Right edge piece "Bind off when edge measures 3 1/2". Which edge?

user icon DROPS Design 13.06.2016 kl. 09:53:

Dear Mrs Ramsay, you work short rows over the 25 remaining sts until the shorter side along these rows measures 3½". Happy knitting!

country flag Almudena Avilés Martínez 28.03.2016 - 14:55:

¡Buenos días! Estoy tejiendo la parte lateral izquierda y no consigo descifrar cómo debo tejer las vueltas acortadas. ¿Podríais indicarme cómo hacerlo? Muchas gracias

user icon DROPS Design 29.03.2016 kl. 10:28:

Hola Almudena. Las filas acortadas en la parte izquierda se comienzan por el LR y se trabajan como sigue desde el centro del delantero (visto por el LR): *2 filas sobre los primeros 16-18-18-20 pts (es decir, 6-8-8-10 pts en pt musgo, 2 pts en pt jersey , 2 pts en pt musgo, 2 pts en pt jersey revés, 4 pts en pt musgo), 2 filas sobre los primeros 27-29-29-31 pts (es decir, 6-8-8-10 pts en pt musgo, 2 pts en pt jersey , 2 pts en pt musgo, 2 pts en pt jersey revés, 4 pts en pt musgo, M.1 (= 11 pts), 2 filas sobre todos los pts *.

country flag Debra 15.05.2015 - 22:27:

I don't see the finished chest measurements. What size does this work up to?

user icon DROPS Design 16.05.2015 kl. 09:51:

Dear Debra, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm taken flat from side to side in each size, ie width for back piece and for each front piece. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

country flag Brigitte Senger 09.05.2015 - 15:55:

Was heißt denn :rechte Masche mit der Rückseite nach außen? Ist damit einfach eine linke Masche gemeint? Liebe Grüße Brigitte

user icon DROPS Design 11.05.2015 kl. 21:17:

Ja, genau, das bedeutet "glatt links".

country flag Anna Wright 18.10.2014 - 23:08:

Do you have a sizing chart so that I can find out what S/M M/L etc mean in terms of bust sizes?

user icon DROPS Design 20.10.2014 kl. 10:03:

Dear Mrs Wright, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measures in cm taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

country flag Zazzu 06.08.2014 - 08:41:

This pattern is too complex to just say "ok, now do the left side like the right, only in reverse"! Curving the short rows while keeping the pattern sequences is complex, but then doing the shaping on the correct side on top of that is maddening! Please provide reversed directions instead of providing lazy directions that require rewriting to follow!

user icon DROPS Design 06.08.2014 kl. 10:16:

Dear Zazzu, for left front piece, work from RS as sated, then inc from RS as for right front piece, and start short rows from WS, as stated under right front piece.. For any individual help to that pattern you can require help from the store where you bought your yarn, they will help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

country flag Dee Balrak 04.07.2013 - 10:22:

Hay, Jullie hebben een stukje in het achterpand uitgelkegdover het breienin tricotsteek. Ik ben nog niet heel ervaren breister.Vandaar wil ik vragen hoe je bijv.9 steken in tricotsteken kan breien. breije dan om en om een steek recht averecht? of heb ik datm mis? alvast dank voor de reactie! gr. Dee

user icon DROPS Design 04.07.2013 kl. 11:50:

Hoi Dee. Tricotsteken zijn recht aan de goede kant en averecht aan de verkeerde kant. Zie hier:

country flag Anna 13.05.2013 - 18:47:

Hello. I would like to knit this beautiful jacket but cant choose the correct size. Could you please let me know the dimensions. I am interesting in sizes S/M and M/L. Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 14.05.2013 kl. 07:58:

Dear Anna, look at the measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern, check with one of your garment you love the shape and compare measurement to find the correct size you need. Happy knitting!

country flag Merike 23.07.2012 - 19:54:

Tahan väga kiita seda kudumise kirjeldust. Olen kaua kudunud, aga nii head õpetust pole veel leidnud.Kõik klapib ja pärast tuleb veel välja suurepärane boolero. Kiitused!!!

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