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Nathan Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Delight

Keywords: bottom up, jacket, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, stocking stitch

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DROPS Baby 20-16
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-012-by
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Size:
1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/7) years
Size in cm:
50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104-110/122)
Size in feet:
Feet: 1f8/1ft10 - 2ft/2ft3 - 2ft5/2ft7 - (2ft9/3ft - 3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft7)

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
Color no 07, beige/blue mix:
150-200-200 (250-250-300) g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6 (80 cm = 32”)
or size needed to get 19 sts x 38 rows in garter st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS, no 513: 4-4-5 (5-5-6) pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 		from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.25$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
1 garter = K 2 rows.
BUTTON HOLE:
Dec for button hole on right front band. 1 button hole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for button hole when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 8, 15 and 22 cm = 3/4", 3 1/8", 6" and 8 3/4"
Size 6/9 months: 2, 9, 16 and 24 cm = 3/4", 3 1/2", 6 1/4" and 9 1/2"
Size 12/18 months: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm = 3/4", 3 1/8", 5 1/2", 8" and 10 1/4"
Size 2 years: 2, 8, 15, 22 and 29 cm = 3/4", 3 1/8", 6", 8 3/4" and 11 3/8"
Size 3/4 years: 2, 9, 16, 24 and 32 cm = 3/4", 3 1/2", 6 1/4", 9 1/2" and 12 1/2"
Size 5/6 years: 2, 8, 15, 22, 29 and 36 cm = 3/4", 3 1/8", 6", 8 3/4", 11 3/8" and 14 1/4"
NOTE: Dec the last button hole on the neckline.
DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece (beg 3 sts before marker): K2 tog, K2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 132-138-150 (162-168-174) sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle 4.5 MM = US 7 with 2 threads Delight. P 1 row from WS, then work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 5 band sts in garter st. Continue rib as follows until 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"), remember button holes on right front band – see explanation above. Continue to work stockinette sts but work the 5 band sts in each side in garter st until piece is completed. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row after rib, adjust no of sts to 118-128-140 (146-158-168) sts – do not dec over the band. Insert 1 marker 32-34-38 (39-42-44) sts in from each side = 54-60-64 (68-74-80) sts between markers on the back piece. When piece measures 5-5-6 (6-6-6) cm = 2"-2"-2 3/8" (2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"), dec 1 st on each side of the markers every 2-2-2 (3-3-4) cm = 3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2") a total of 5 times = 98-108-120 (126-138-148) sts. When piece measures approx. 15-16-17 (19-21-24) cm = 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" (7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9 1/2") - adjust so that next row is worked from WS - K 3 rows over all stitches. On next row bind off 6-8-8 (8-10-10) sts in each side for armhole (i.e. 3-4-4 (4-5-5) sts on each side of markers) = 38-42-46 (50-54-60) sts on back piece and 24-25-29 (30-32-34) sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 with 2 threads Delight. K 1 round. Then knit rib with K2/P4 until piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"). Continue with stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 28-28-30 (30-32-32) sts on 1st round after rib. When piece measures 8-6-6 (6-6-7) cm = 3 1/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" (2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"), inc 2 sts mid under each sleeve every 7-4-3 (3-3.5-3.5) cm = 2 3/4"-1 1/2"-1 1/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4") a total of 2-4-5 (7-7-8) times = 32-36-40 (44-46-48) sts. When piece measures 18-20-21 (26-30-34) cm = 7"-8"-8 1/4" (10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13 3/8"), P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round, then K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-8 (8-10-10) sts mid under each sleeve = 26-28-32 (36-36-38) sts left on the needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 on body and slip sleeves onto same circular needle where bind off for armholes is = 138-148-168 (182-190-204) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work in garter st back and forth on needle over all sts – and K 1 row from WS before beg dec for raglan.
RAGLAN: Dec 1 st on each side of all markers (= 8 dec) – read Decrease tip! Dec every 4 rows: 7-8-8 (9-10-11) times and then on every other row: 0-0-2 (2-2-2) times.

NECK:
At the same time when piece measures 21-23-25 (28-31-35) cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4" (11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4") slip the 8-8-10 (10-10-12) outermost sts in each side towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Continue to dec for neck towards mid front on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times.
After all dec for raglan and neck there are 54-56-56 (62-62-64) sts left on the needle and piece measures approx. 26-28-30 (33-36-40) cm = 10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" (13"-14 1/4"-15 3/4") up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Knit up approx. 80 to 105 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on circular needle 4 MM = US 6 with 2 threads Delight. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 54-60-60 (66-66-72) sts. Continue to work rib as follows (1st row = WS): 5 band sts rib, * P2, K4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and 5 band sts rib (from RS there are 5 band sts in rib and K2 on each side towards mid front). After 1 cm = 3/8" dec for 1 button hole over the other holes on the right side. When rib measures 2 cm = 3/4", loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.05.2011
BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 132-138-150 (162-168-174) sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle 4.5 mm/US 7 with 2 threads Delight.
Updated online: 13.05.2022
Correction lengths in all sizes (body + neck edge) + new measurement chart

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Jane Willmott wrote:

Making size 3/4, have dec for raglan - dec every 4 rowsx10, & then on every other row x2 - 74 stitches rem. Reached neck - have slipped outermost 10 sts on each side on to holder, (incl 5 sts of band). Pattern reads "cont to dec from neck towards mid front on every other row: 2 stsx2 & 1 stx2. Where am i decreasing? Still at raglan sleeve edge, or next to the band? what happens to sts on holder? How do they get to same no. of rows as body? already 41cm not 36cm & still to do this dec? thanks

01.08.2022 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Willmot, the decreases for raglan are not supposed to be finished when you start shaping neck, this means you decrease for raglan as you said, but at the same time, when piece will measure 31 cm, slip the first 10 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows on a thread and continue decreasing for raglan while casting off for neck on each side: 2 sts 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times (= 2 sts at the beginning of next 4 rows and 1 stitch at the beginning of next 4 rows). Happy knitting!

01.08.2022 kl. 16:16

country flag Nathalie TD wrote:

Les explications de ce modele ne sont pas claires, par ex. le terme diminuer est employé pour l’encolure alors qu’il s’agit de rabattre. Les mesures par rapport à l’age sont totalement fausses ce qui oblige à recalculer toutes données. C’est vraiment un très mauvais modèle et il devrait être rectifié

07.04.2022 - 23:25

country flag Nathalie TD wrote:

Je crois que les tailles par rapport aux âges est totalement faux, c’est beaucoup trop grand et plusieurs commentaires le mentionnent. Pourquoi ne pas rectifier et afficher un diagramme avec des mesures justes ? Pourquoi obliger les personnes à mesurer un pull, recalculer les donnees du tricot? Pourquoi publiera des modèles à l’evidence faux

28.03.2022 - 20:17

country flag Rosi wrote:

Ich stricke gerade für Zwillinge mit einem Faden Big Delight, finde es übrigens sehr schade, dass Big Delight langsam verschwindet.\r\nDie Jacke soll für 12-18 Monate 36 cm lang werden (siehe oben) - das wird ja ein Mantel!! Das ist doch viel zu lang!

06.01.2022 - 01:33

country flag Steinmann Jutta wrote:

Projekt 2016 babyjacke\\r\\nWas bedeutet: vor und nach Markierung je 1 M abn., und alle 4 cm total 5 mal

03.06.2021 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Steinmann, beim Rumpfteil setzen Sie 2 Markierungen, bzw 1 Markierung an jeder Seite, dann sollen Sie 1 Masche beidseitig jeder Markierung abnehmen (= 2 Abnahmen bei jeder Markierung = 4 Abnahmen pro Abnahmenreihe), und diese Abnahmenreihen stricken Sie insgesamt 5 Mal in jeder 4 cm( Größe 2. Jahre) = Sie haben 5 M weniger bei jedem Vorderteil und 10 M weniger beim Rückenteil = 126 M sind noch übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.06.2021 kl. 08:43

country flag Jackie wrote:

Hi. I have completed the sleeves and body and need to slip all stitches onto circular needle. I have 2 questions: 1. There are 10 cast off stitches (3/4 yrs size) on the body, but no corresponding cast off stitches on the sleeves to match as shown on the video? 2. When knitting sleeves in the round the inside is the ‘right’ side. When slipping on the circular needle, do I need to turn the sleeves the other way? Many thanks.

10.04.2021 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, the pattern actually says "AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-8 (8-10-10) sts mid under each sleeve = 26-28-32 (36-36-38) sts left on the needle" in which "decrease" means cast off. As for the sleeves, the pattern does not say you have to knit the sleeves with the RS inside, it says you knit the sleeves on the round with stocking stitch. When putting together the body and the sleeves, all part should have RS on teh outside. Happy Knitting.

10.04.2021 kl. 19:29

country flag Jackie G wrote:

Please could you explain a little more what this instruction in the sleeve means ‘ inc 2 sts mid under each sleeve’ -especially the term ‘mid under’. Many thanks.

14.02.2021 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, you will have to increase 1 stitch at the beg + 1 stitch at the end of the round = 2 stitches (mid under sleeve = beg of round). You can increase as follows: work until 1 stitch remains at the end of the round, increase 1 stitch, work 2 (marker for beg of round is in the middle of these 2 stitches), increase 1 stitch. Happy knitting!

15.02.2021 kl. 09:14

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour,est-ce que je rabat les mailles lorsque le raglan et les diminutions de l’encolure sont terminés? Merci

23.08.2019 - 14:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, quand toutes les diminutions du raglan et de l'encolure sont faites, vous relevez les mailles le long de l'encolure (y compris les mailles en attente) et tricotez le col. Bon tricot!

23.08.2019 kl. 14:53

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour,je commence à mettre les mailles en attente et les diminuions pour l’encolure à 5 cm avant l’assemblage? Merci!

23.08.2019 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, vous commencez à former l'encolure à 27 cm de hauteur totale, quand toutes les diminutions du raglan et de l'encolure sont faites, l'ouvrage mesure 32 cm à partir de l'épaule jusqu'en bas, terminez ensuite par le col. Bon tricot!

23.08.2019 kl. 14:47

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour,je débute le raglan.Je ne comprends pas le 28 cm de hauteur totale lorsque c’est écrit de mettre les mailles en attente. Ma hauteur dépasse le 28 cm le dos et le devant. Merci🧶

22.08.2019 - 20:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, on commence l'encolure alors que les diminutions du raglan ne sont pas encore terminées, autrement dit vous diminuez pour le raglan et quand l'ouvrage mesure 25-27 cm (1ère-2ème taille), vous mettez 8 m en attente de chaque côté et vous rabattez pour l'encolure comme indiqué, tout en continuant à diminuer pour le raglan comme avant. Bon tricot!

23.08.2019 kl. 09:08

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