DROPS Baby 20-12 by DROPS Design

Jacket knitted from side to side in garter st and lace pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS Baby 20-12
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-007-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 46-52-60 (64-70) cm / 18"-20½"-23 5/8" (25 1/4"-27½")
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'')

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 05, light pink
50 g for all sizes color no 01, white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – for crochet borders.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, no 521: 3 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

KNITTING TIP:
When turning mid piece, slip the first st as if to K, tighten thread and continue as before, do this to avoid a hole in transition.
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JACKET:
Beg on left front piece, work towards the sleeve, back piece, the other sleeve and finish with right front piece.
Loosely cast on 62-68-78 (88-96) sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino and K 8 rows for front band (first row = RS).
Work next row as follows from RS: K the first 15 sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly (inc1 st by making 1 YO), K remaining sts on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. K 1 row from WS on all sts, work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Continue as follows: work the first 23 sts on needle in M.1, and K remaining sts on every row. AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows as follows – see KNITTING TIP: * work the first 30-32-38 (42-47) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 64-70-80 (90-98) sts, turn piece and work return row, work all 70-76-86 (96-104) sts, turn and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx 16-17.5-19.5 (20.5-22) cm / 6 1/4"-6 7/8"-7 3/4" (8 1/8"-8 3/4") from cast on row (measured just before the first turn, i.e. over M.1). Cut the thread. Now slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts towards bottom edge on a stitch holder (= the side). Cast on 36-42-46 (60-70) new sts over sts on stitch holder (i.e. before the 29-31-34 (36-39) sts left on needle) for sleeve and now continue as follows (first row = from RS): * work the first 41-47-51 (65-75) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 59-67-74 (90-103) sts, turn piece and work return row, work all 65-73-80 (96-109) sts, turn and work return row *. Repeat from *-*. When piece measures 16-17-18 (18-20) cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" (7"-8") from where sts for sleeve were cast on (measured where widest, i.e. along bottom edge) bind off 36-42-46 (60-70) sts from sleeve edge towards body piece. Cut the thread. Slip the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle and insert a marker in piece. Continue from bottom of body piece as before from *-* as described for front piece (first row = from RS).
When piece measures 28-31-35 (37-40) cm / 11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4" (14½"-15 3/4") from marker (measured just before the first turn, i.e. over M.1) cut the thread. Slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts towards bottom edge on a stitch holder (= the side). Cast on 36-42-46 (60-70) new sts over sts on stitch holder (i.e. before the 29-31-34 (36-39) sts left on needle) for sleeve and continue as before from *-* as described for the other sleeve. When sleeve measures the same as the left sleeve bind off 36-42-46 (60-70) sts from sleeve edge towards body piece. Cut the thread. Slip the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle and continue from bottom of body piece as before from *-* as described for front piece (first row = RS). When right front piece measures the same as left front piece (less front band) work next row from RS as follows: K the first 23 sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly (dec 1 st by K2 tog) and K remaining 47-53-63 (73-81) sts on row = 62-68-78 (88-96) sts. Now work front band as follows (first row = from WS): K 3 rows on all sts, on next row from RS make 3 buttonholes as follows (i.e. from bottom edge towards neckline):
K 41-45-53 (61-65) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog, K 7-8-9 (10-12) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog, K 7-8-9 (10-12) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog and finish with K1. Turn and K all sts on return row. Now K 5 rows on all sts and bind off loosely from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seams, edge to edge. Sew on buttons.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border along bottom edge with crochet hook size 3 mm / C and white as follows: 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 dc *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet a similar border round both sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog into back of loop
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (99)

country flag Anieli Von Qualen wrote:

Hul mønstret til denne søde jakke forstår jeg ikke helt. Er første linje = pind 1 = fra retten anden linje= pind 2 = fra vrangen Jeg forstår det sådan, at mønstret viser både ret og vrang side? Med venlig hilsen Anieli

04.08.2022 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anieli, ja det stemmer diagrammet ser du fra retsiden, 1.pind (nederst) i diagrammet strikkes fra retsiden (fra højre mod venstre), 2.pind strikkes fra vrangen (fra venstre mod højre i diagrammet) Se også den video vi linkede til lidt længere ned i kommentarerne :)

05.08.2022 kl. 12:05

country flag Ann-Mari AbrahamssonDahlqvist wrote:

Jag fick ett svar, men det gick inte att förstå, varför förklarar ni inte på svenska. Skall det stickas en kant? Startar M1 från kanten eller en bit in? I så fall var? Och videon ni skickade har inget ljud. Dåligt, tycker jag, era stickbeskrivningar är helt obegripliga.

03.08.2022 - 15:48

country flag Ann-Mari Abrahamsson-Dahlqvist wrote:

Hej, hur får jag till M1 mönstret? På bilden det ut som att M1 stickningen är räta maskor mellan hålen, men jag får aviga maskor. Hur skall jag tolka M1? Är det varje varv jag stickar efter? Eller stickar jag ett varv från rätsida och sedan stickar jag ett rät varv tillbaka? Hur gör man, jag fattar inte.

02.08.2022 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ann-Mari, se här hur du stickar diagrammet: Diagram till Baby 20-12

03.08.2022 kl. 15:16

country flag Line wrote:

Donc, si je comprends bien, je tricote M1, pour les 30 premières mailles et je poursuis le rang à l'endroit. Je tricote le 2 rang à l'envers et je suis le motif pour les 23 dernières mailles. Lorsque je reviens à l'endroit, je tricote les 46 mailles en suivant le motif et je tourne. C'est donc dire que je fais tout le motif sans jamais aller jusqu'au bout du rang sauf après le 1er rang du motif ? Je vous remercie vraiment beaucoup !!

08.07.2022 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Line, vous tricoterez M.1 tous les rangs, sur l'endroit et sur l'envers - lisez le diagramme de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers. Mais il sera tricoté à chaque fois car les rangs raccourcis commencent en bas, là où vous commencez par M.1, en revanche, vous ne tricoterez pas toutes les mailles point mousse à gauche, vu sur l'endroit à chaque fois à cause des rangs raccourcis. Bon tricot!

08.07.2022 kl. 15:57

country flag Line wrote:

Quand on nous dit de faire le motif M-1 et en même temps, de faire les rangs raccourcis, est-ce que je suis le motif ? Je ne comprends pas vraiment comment suivre le M-1. Merci

07.07.2022 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Line, les rangs raccourcis se tricotent en commençant sur l'endroit, en bas du gilet, et vous tricotez M.1 en bas du gilet, autrement dit, vous tricoterez M.1 tous les rangs, même lors des rangs raccourcis. Placez des marqueurs à l'endroit des rangs raccourcis pour mieux vous repérer - le 1er rang raccourci se tricote sur les 30 premières mailles (7 mailles après M.1 dans la 1ère taille). Bon tricot!

08.07.2022 kl. 10:00

country flag Leila Sundblom wrote:

Ohjeen mukaan takin alareunasta ei tule sama kuin kuvassa , siinä leveämpi alareuna. Aina oikein kudottuja kerroksia heti kuviokerrosten jälkeen/edellä?\r\nTakki todella kaunis.\r\nYstävällisin terveisin leila

12.06.2022 - 09:51

country flag Leila Sundblom wrote:

Ohjeen mukaan takin alareunasta ei tule sama kuin kuvassa , siinä leveämpi alareuna. Aina oikein kudottuja kerroksia heti kuviokerrosten jälkeen/edellä?\r\nTakki todella kaunis.\r\nYstävällisin terveisin leila

12.06.2022 - 09:50

country flag Birgitte wrote:

Hvordan kan modeller med 96 og med 104 m begge måles til 40 cm i længden( se model 14 - 6) i str. 3/4? Der slås nok 8 m op til blonden, men det ser ud til at være for, at den kan passe ind i retstrikningen. Er målene rigtige? Hvordan kan de være det? Buer jakken? Jeg er mystificeret og vil gerne have hjælp.

07.05.2022 - 12:39

country flag Lillian Paterson wrote:

Just discovered your wonderful website and the 20-12 baby pattern - My question is that I don't think the approx 6/8 stitch band on the bottom of the pattern panel in the photo is mentioned in pattern. Can you advise please. Pattern states start with 23 stitches from M1 . Love knitting with Baby Merino. This is my second baby cardi first one was 33-26. Hope you can help Lillian

30.04.2022 - 02:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lillian, the lace pattern at the bottom of the jacket is worked following diagram M.1 - this lesson might help you understanding how to work diagrams. Can this help? Happy knitting!

02.05.2022 kl. 08:10

country flag Ellen wrote:

Ser på bildet at der er en rillekant nederst på jakken. Hvordan får jeg den når det ska begynnes rett på M1 fra kanten?

26.04.2022 - 09:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ellen, de første masker i diagrammet bliver til rillerne nederst i jakken :)

26.04.2022 kl. 15:04

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