DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 20-12
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-007-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 05, light pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – for crochet borders.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, no 521: 3 pcs..

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

KNITTING TIP:
When turning mid piece, slip the first st as if to K, tighten thread and continue as before, do this to avoid a hole in transition.
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JACKET:
Beg on left front piece, work towards the sleeve, back piece, the other sleeve and finish with right front piece.
Loosely cast on 62-68-78 (88-96) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino and K 8 rows for front band (first row = RS).
Work next row as follows from RS: K the first 15 sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly (inc1 st by making 1 YO), K remaining sts on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. K 1 row from WS on all sts, work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Continue as follows: work the first 23 sts on needle in M.1, and K remaining sts on every row. AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows as follows – see KNITTING TIP: * work the first 30-32-38 (42-47) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 64-70-80 (90-98) sts, turn piece and work return row, work all 70-76-86 (96-104) sts, turn and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx 16-17.5-19.5 (20.5-22) cm from cast on row (measured just before the first turn, i.e. over M.1). Cut the thread. Now slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts towards bottom edge on a stitch holder (= the side). Cast on 36-42-46 (60-70) new sts over sts on stitch holder (i.e. before the 29-31-34 (36-39) sts left on needle) for sleeve and now continue as follows (first row = from RS): * work the first 41-47-51 (65-75) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 59-67-74 (90-103) sts, turn piece and work return row, work all 65-73-80 (96-109) sts, turn and work return row *. Repeat from *-*. When piece measures 16-17-18 (18-20) cm from where sts for sleeve were cast on (measured where widest, i.e. along bottom edge) cast off 36-42-46 (60-70) sts from sleeve edge towards body piece. Cut the thread. Slip the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle and insert a marker in piece. Continue from bottom of body piece as before from *-* as described for front piece (first row = from RS).
When piece measures 28-31-35 (37-40) cm from marker (measured just before the first turn, i.e. over M.1) cut the thread. Slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts towards bottom edge on a stitch holder (= the side). Cast on 36-42-46 (60-70) new sts over sts on stitch holder (i.e. before the 29-31-34 (36-39) sts left on needle) for sleeve and continue as before from *-* as described for the other sleeve. When sleeve measures the same as the left sleeve cast off 36-42-46 (60-70) sts from sleeve edge towards body piece. Cut the thread. Slip the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle and continue from bottom of body piece as before from *-* as described for front piece (first row = RS). When right front piece measures the same as left front piece (less front band) work next row from RS as follows: K the first 23 sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly (dec 1 st by K2 tog) and K remaining 47-53-63 (73-81) sts on row = 62-68-78 (88-96) sts. Now work front band as follows (first row = from WS): K 3 rows on all sts, on next row from RS make 3 buttonholes as follows (i.e. from bottom edge towards neckline):
K 41-45-53 (61-65) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog, K 7-8-9 (10-12) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog, K 7-8-9 (10-12) sts, 1 YO, K2 tog and finish with K1. Turn and K all sts on return row. Now K 5 rows on all sts and cast off loosely from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seams, edge to edge. Sew on buttons.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border along bottom edge with crochet hook size 3 mm and white as follows: 1 dc, * 3 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet a similar border round both sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog into back of loop
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (121)

country flag Sonja Santesson wrote:

Drops Baby 20-12 Behövs endast 4 nystan även till största storleken??? Ar stickat första ärmen o börjas på 3:e nystanet. Tror ni det behövs mer?? Stickar bara räta maskor o inget mönster i nederkant. Bara 4 nystan till största storlek när minsta också är 4???? Färgbad 52012 Färg 54.. Hör gärna från er snarast

19.03.2024 - 16:57

country flag Karen wrote:

I'm working the back section now and I have 45 stitches on my needle if I increase by 8 stitches I'll only have 53 stitches. Work next row as follows from RS: K the first 15 sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly. K remaining sts on needle 76. How do I get to 76 stitches when I'm doing the back right side.

16.03.2024 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, the sentence you stated is only used for the very beginning: you cast on 68 stitches, then increase 8, so you have 76 stitches. If you have slipped the 45 stitches for the back piece then you start working the front piece from the *, that is, from the shortened rows: * work the first 30-32-38 (42-47) sts, turn piece and work return row, work the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece and work return row, etc...) Happy knitting!

18.03.2024 - 00:10

country flag Sonja Santesson wrote:

Mönster 20-12. M.1 beskriver från rätsidan första mönsterraden. När arbetet vänts o man är på avigsidan, börjar man då från vänster på beskrivningen???? Hjälp!

05.03.2024 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sonja. Ja det stämmer. När du är på avigsidan så läser du diagrammet från vänster till höger. Mvh DROPS design

06.03.2024 - 09:14

country flag Karen wrote:

I'm on the section of continue from bottom of body piece as before from *-* as described for front piece (first row = RS). I have no ball of knitting wool attached since I cut the thread. I have 45 stitches on the needle and both sleeves are completed. Just wondering where I can cast on my ball of wool again so I can continue that back piece.

28.02.2024 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, start from right side again and work the stitches slipped aside at the bottom of jacket + the stitches worked at the top of sleeve and continue the short rows as before over all stitches. Happy knitting!

29.02.2024 - 08:24

country flag Karen wrote:

Im confused about this section. Continue from bottom of body piece as before from as described for front piece. So I'm back on my side stitches at the bottom do I now need to do m1 again until I reach 31cm?

16.02.2024 - 00:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, you will now work M.1 and short rows as you worked from *to* on front piece, until piece measures 31 cm from marker. Happy knitting!

16.02.2024 - 07:58

country flag Karen wrote:

Hi I am stuck on this part. Sl Hi im stuck on this part. Slip the 45 sts from stitch holder at the side back on needle and insert a marker in piece. Continue from bottom of body piece. So I have added those stitches and I now have 75 stitches in total on the needle. It now resembles the right sleeve which is connected to the main body of the cardigan. Is this correct.

03.01.2024 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, in 2nd size you are supposed to have 76 stitches: after you have slipped the bottom 45 sts on a thread, 31 sts remain on needle, then you cast on for bottom of sleeve 42 sts and work the remaining 31 sts = 73 stitches for sleeve. Note that the bottom edge on sleeve will be folded towards RS (see photo). Happy knitting!

04.01.2024 - 08:32

country flag Karen wrote:

Hi I have knitted my 17.5cm and cut the thread. The end stitches are on another needle. I have cast on 41 stitches in the middle do I need to join these two sections together when I knit my first row.

15.12.2023 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, after cutting off the yarn, the first 41 stitches on the piece are slipped onto a stitch holder. Then cast on the new 42 stitches before the 31 stitches left on the needle. Now work over all of the stitches in short rows as indicated: first over 41 stitches (over the new cast on stitches), work back and work over the first 67 stitches (the 42 new stitches + some of the 31 sts from before), work back and then work over all of the 73 stitches. You join them as you work over them. Happy knitting!

17.12.2023 - 18:34

country flag Karen wrote:

Hi I have repeated M1 twice but my piece only measures 6.5cm do I need to keep repeating the M1 pattern to reach the 17cm length.

19.11.2023 - 23:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Karen, Yes, you repeat M.1 until the piece measures 17.5 cm, then continue as explained in the text. Happy knitting!

20.11.2023 - 06:42

country flag Patricia wrote:

Hello, ich brauche Hilfe. Ich wäre froh, wenn jemand mir erklärt, wie ich nach 19,5 cm für das 12/18 Modell die Ärmel stricke ? Was soll ich tun ? Danke sehr die Zeit zu nehmen, mir eine Antwort zu geben

03.11.2023 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Patricia,, nach 19,5 cm (nach einer Rückreihe) soll der Faden geschnitten werden. Dann die unteren 52 Maschen stilllegen = zählen Sie ab der rechten Seite/Anfang einer Hinreihe = Seite der Jacke. Nun werden 46 Maschen angeschlagen (unterer Teil vom Ärmel) und danach stricken Sie die 34 Maschen die noch auf der Nadel sind (nach den stillgelegten Maschen = oberer Teil bis zum Hals). Jetzt stricken Sie den Ärmel über diese 80 Reihen mit den neuen beschriebenen verkürzten Reihen. Nach 18 cm ketten Sie die unteren 46 Maschen vom Ärmel, Faden abschneiden und Rückenteil über die stillgelegten Maschen + die oberen Maschen stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.11.2023 - 08:02

country flag Patricia S wrote:

Hello, Thank you very much for your help. I don’t understand how to introduce thé armel after 19,5 cm for thé 12/18 pattern. I would like an simple explanation.

03.11.2023 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, when the piece measures 19.5cm, slip the first 52 sts onto a thread or auxiliary needle. Now, cast on new stitches on the needle, where the slipped stitches were before. Now you will work only over these new stitches, back and forth, as indicated, until the sleeve measures 18cm. Here you will cast off 46 stitches from the sleeve edge towards the body. You cut the thread and you slip back the stitches on the thread. Repeat at the other side for the other sleeve. Happy knitting!

05.11.2023 - 19:34