DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Reindeer Swing

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan sleeves and reindeer pattern on yoke in ”Nepal”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 122-43
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-025
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-112-124-136 cm / 33"-36¼"-40"-44"-48¾"-53½"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½"

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
color no 4311, gray/purple: 550-650-700-750-850-900 g
color no 0100, eco off-white: 200-200-250-250-250-300 g
color no 4434m, purple/violet mix: 100-100-100-100-100-100 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16" + 32") size 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") size 4 mm/US 6 - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st in the round.

MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements while the garment is hanging otherwise it will be too long when worn.

INCREASING TIP (applies to darts + inc at the side):
Inc 1 st by picking up st from previous row and K this.

DECREASING TIP (applies to darts + dec at the side):
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows 2 sts before marker: K2 tog.
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BODY PIECE:
See MEASUREMENT TIP! Cast on 240-255-282-312-348-384 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with gray/purple. Work rib, K1/P2. When piece measures 8 cm / 3" change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 78-81-90-102-114-126 sts evenly = 162-174-192-210-234-258 sts. Now work M.1 AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 2 sts evenly in SIZE L (no dec in the other sizes) = 162-174-190-210-234-258 sts. After M.1 continue with gray/purple and stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME after M.1 insert 6 markers in piece as follows:
Marker-1at beg of round (= the side).
Marker-2 after 25-27-30-34-38-42 sts.
Marker-3 after a further 31-33-35-37-41-45 sts.
Marker-4 after a further 25-27-30-34-38-42 sts (= the side).
Marker-5 after a further 25-27-30-34-38-42 sts.
Marker-6 after a further 31-33-35-37-41-45 sts (= 25-27-30-34-38-42 sts left on round after last marker) – let the markers follow the piece as you go along. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! When piece measures 14 cm / 5½" dec 1 st after marker-2 and -5 and before marker-3 and -6 – See DECREASING TIP (= darts on front and back piece). Repeat the dec on every 4.5 cm / 1¾" a total of 5 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14 cm / 5½" dec 1 st each side of marker-1 and -4 (= at the sides) and repeat the dec on every 6-9-9-9-9-6 cm / 2⅜"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½"-2⅜" a total of 4-3-3-3-3-4 times. After all dec there are 126-142-158-178-202-222 sts on needle.
When piece measures 35-35-35-36-36-37 cm / 13¾"-13¾"-13¾"-14¼"-14¼"-14½" inc after marker-2 and -5 and before marker-3 and -6 – See INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 1-1-1.5-1.5-3.5-3.5 cm / ⅜"-⅜"-½"-½"-1¼"-1¼" a total of 4-4-4-3-2-2 times = 142-158-174-190-210-230 sts on needle.
When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼" work M.2 - NOTE: adjust pattern to the middle, arrow in diagram marks the middle st front and back – pattern will not fit at the sides.
When 1 round remain of M.2 (piece measures approx 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½"-19"-19¼"-19¾"-20"-20½") bind off 8 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 4 sts each side of marker-1 and -4) = 63-71-79-87-97-107 sts left on front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
READ ALL OF THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 54-54-54-57-57-57 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with gray/purple. Work rib, K1/P2. When piece measures 8 cm / 3" change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 , K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-9-9-9 sts evenly = 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts. Now work M.1. After M.1 continue in gray/purple and stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st for all sizes on round 1 = 41-41-41-47-47-47 sts. When piece measures 14-13-13-13-14-13 cm / 5½"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5½"-5⅛" (M.1 is finished) inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat the inc on every 3-2.5-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm / 1⅛"-⅞"-⅞"-⅞"-¾"-¾" a total of 9-11-12-11-13-15 times = 59-63-65-69-73-77 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34 cm / 13½" work M.2 – NOTE: adjust pattern to the middle, arrow in diagram marks the middle st on upper arm. When 1 round remain of M.2 (piece measures approx 42 cm / 16½ for all sizes) bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve = 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body pieces where bind off for armholes = 228-252-272-296-324-352 sts. Round now beg mid back. K 1 round with eco off-white AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-10-8-10-16-0 sts evenly = 220-242-264-286-308-352 sts. Continue in M.3 – see chart for your size. After M.3 (finish pattern by arrow in diagram for your size) there are 110-121-132-143-154-176 sts on needle. K 1 round with purple/violet mix AT THE SAME TIME dec 34-41-48-55-62-80 sts evenly = 76-80-84-88-92-96 sts.

NECK:
Now work elevation mid back, back and forth on needle with purple/violet mix. Work row to mid front, insert a marker. K 47-50-52-55-57-60 sts, turn piece and P 18-20-20-22-22-24 sts. Turn piece, K 27-30-30-33-33-36 sts, turn piece and P 36-40-40-44-44-48 sts. Turn piece, K 45-50-50-55-55-60 sts, turn piece and P 54-60-60-66-66-72 sts. Turn piece, K all sts to marker. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in the round. K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME inc 26-22-24-20-22-18 sts evenly = 102-102-108-108-114-114 sts. Work rib = K1/ P2 on all sts. Bind off with K over K and P over P when rib measures 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm / 5½"-5½"-6"-6"-6¼"-6¼", measured mid front.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.09.2010
BODY: ...When piece measures 35-35-35-36-36-37 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14½" inc after marker-2 and -5 and before marker-3 and -6 – See INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 1-1-1.5-1.5-3.5-3.5 cm / 3/8"-3/8"-½"-½"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" a total of 4-4-4-3-2-2 times = 142-158-174-190-210-230 sts on needle.
When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'' work M.2 - NOTE: adjust pattern to the middle, arrow in diagram marks the middle st front and back – pattern will not fit at the sides.
Updated online: 17.12.2010
New chart M.3 has been published.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = gray/purple
symbols = eco off-white
symbols = purple/violet mix
symbols = K2 tog
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (71)

country flag Gaby Kägi wrote:

Wie muss ich dies machen und wo? An irgendeiner Stellle? Betr. Arm Anleitung 122-43 ) unter dem Ärmel 2 M. aufnehmen Danke

18.06.2024 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Käfig, die 2 Maschen werden unter dem Ärmel zugenommen, dh beidseitig von der Markierung am Anfang der Runde: 1 Masche am Ende der Runde + 1 Masche am Anfang der Runde; nehmen Sie die Maschen mit Ihrer Lieblingstechnik - oder wie in diesem Video. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

19.06.2024 - 07:36

country flag Pika wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais faire ce modèle en xxxl et laine maximum 3.5 quel laine acrylique qui ne pique pas me conseiller vous de prendre sachant que si je prend la laine plus fine il y aura peut être une différance de grandeur que me conseillez vous merci

30.04.2024 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pika, ce modèle se tricote sur la base d'un échantillon de 17 mailles x 22 rangs = 10 x10 cm; si vous n'avez pas cet échantillon, vous devrez recalculer entièrement les explications en suivant votre échantillon. Vous pouvez également consulter la liste des modèles à tricoter avec votre tension grâce à notre moteur de recherche. Pour trouver les alternatives possibles utilisez notre convertisseur. Bon crochet!

02.05.2024 - 07:44

country flag Marieke Lopers wrote:

Ik heb deze trui voor mij zelf gebreid, hij zit heerlijk! Nu zou ik voor mijn dochter dezelfde willen maken. Met bijvoorbeeld big Merino uitgevaren categorie C naald dikte 5 mm. Als ik een grote damesmaat XL aanhoud zou dat met naald vijf en big Merino een passende maat kunnen zijn voor een meisje van 10? Ik weet niet hoe ik de verhoudingen kan omrekenen. Alvast bedankt, groetjes Marieke

07.01.2023 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marieke,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om een patroon aan te passen naar persoonlijke wensen. Op basis van de stekenverhouding met je eigen naalden en garens zou je de afmetingen kunnen berekenen als je deze vergelijkt met de stekenverhouding in het patroon. Maar je moet dan ook nog uitkomen met het patroon.

08.01.2023 - 10:18

country flag BOURGEOIS wrote:

Je fais ce pull en taille L, pour l'empiècement, la moitié du premier motif du renne se commence donc au milieu du dos ?

04.11.2022 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bourgeois, pour l'empiècement, on commence les tours au milieu dos; lorsque vous tricotez le diagramme, vous commencez par la 1ère maille du diagramme au milieu dos, si vous voulez centrer un renne au milieu devant, calculez où vous devrez commencer le tour par rapport au milieu dos (cette leçon peut vous y aider). Bon tricot!

07.11.2022 - 08:01

country flag Maureen wrote:

Should the neck from the start of the instructions elevation to end be in Rib with no stocking stitch

28.10.2022 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maureen, the short rows for the elevation are worked in stocking stitch, ie knit from the right side and purl from the wrong side, then knit all stitches in the round decreasing evenly and then start working ribbing. Happy knitting!

31.10.2022 - 08:07

country flag Maureen wrote:

Neck Elevation mid back and onwards to the end, looking at the finished jumper it appears the rib should be the complete neck is that correct even the elevation Thank you

28.10.2022 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maureen, you work a total of 6 short rows in stocking stitch for the elevation on back piece, then work back in the round decreasing on first round and then work ribbing for the neck edge. Can this help?

31.10.2022 - 08:06

country flag Anna wrote:

Bonjour Je suis en train de faire les manches et comment augmente-t’on dans le diagramme M2? Merci

20.09.2021 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna, incorporez les augmentations dans le jacquard: à la fin du tour, tricotez la nouvelle maille comme la maille suivante du motif (= lisez de droite à gauche) et au début du tour, tricotez la nouvelle maille comme la maille indiquée dans le diagramme avant la suivante (= lisez de gauche à droite). Bon tricot!

21.09.2021 - 08:36

country flag Gaby wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de terminer ce (magnifique!) modèle mais je ne comprends pas ce que signifie dans le diagramme "le creux" qui apparaît sur les 6 derniers rangs de M3. Dois-je, 6 rangs avant la fin du diagramme, rabattre une maille toutes les 6 mailles ? Je vous remercie par avance de votre réponse.

14.12.2019 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaby et merci. le "trou" au milieu de A.3 (dans les 2 diagrammes) correspond à la maille diminué au milieu de chaque M.3 (2 m ens à l'end) = on a donc 1 m en moins au tour suivant, soit 12 m (= 6+6) dans chaque M.3. Bon tricot!

16.12.2019 - 08:18

country flag Pamela Cornish wrote:

Hi. Ive just finished the increases on the body but don't quite understand about adjusting the pattern to the middle. Do I move the two markers - first and last to the middle markers and start from that point where the arrow is marked on m3. Thanks.

12.11.2019 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cornish, you can read how to center a diagram here. Happy knitting!

12.11.2019 - 08:34

country flag Julia wrote:

Hallo nochmal :) Vielen Dank für die letzte Antwort bzgl. der Messhöhe :) Ich habe jetzt noch eine Frage: Ich stricke Größe L und bin mit 174 M ins M2 gegangen. Damit bin ich jetzt fertig und habe insgesamt 16 Maschen für die Armlöcher abgekettet ... Wie viele Maschen sollte ich jetzt noch haben? In der Anleitung steht 79... aber da komme ich ja längst nicht hin ... :( Hab ich etwas falsch gemacht?? LG und vielen Dank!! Julia

04.02.2019 - 19:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Julia, in der Größe L sollen Sie 79 M für je Vorder und Rückenteil haben: es sind 174 M, 4 M werden nach der 1. Markierer am Anfang der Runde abgekettet, bis 4 M vor dem 1. Markierer stricken (= 79 M), die nächste 8 M abketten, bis 4 M vor dem 1. Markierer stricken (= 79 M) und die letzten 4 M abketten = 8 M x 2 + 79 M x 2 = 174 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2019 - 08:30