DROPS Baby / 19 / 31

Little Chestnut Hat by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket with raglan sleeves, hat and booties with cables, for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-075-by-Z-076-by-Z-077-by
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-64 (68-74) cm / 19 3/4"-22"-25 1/4" (26 3/4"-29 1/8")
Full length: 25-27-31 (35-39) cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-12 1/4" (13 3/4"-15 1/4")

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
JACKET: 150 g for all sizes color no 618, eco dark beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 2.5 mm/US 1½ - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON, BURNT, no 513: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.

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HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference:
approx 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / 16''-17''-18'' (19''-20'')

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 618, eco dark beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 2.5 mm/US 1 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
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BOOTIES:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10 - 11 - 12 (14 - 16) cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5½"-6 1/4")

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 618, eco dark beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.4. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = bind off 3rd and 4th front band st and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 4, 9, 14, 19 and 24 cm / 1½", 3½", 5½", 7½" and 9½".
SIZE 6/9 months: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm / 3/4", 3 1/8", 5½", 8" and 10 1/4".
SIZE 12/18 months: 3, 8, 14, 19, 25 and 30 cm / 1 1/8", 3 1/8", 5½", 7½", 9 3/4" and 11 3/4".
SIZE 2 years: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28 and 34 cm / 1½", 4" 6 1/4", 8 3/4", 11" and 13 3/8".
SIZE 3/4 years: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm / 1 1/8", 4", 6 3/4", 9½", 12 1/4" and 15".
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 139-151-170 (183-192) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1½ with Alpaca. K 4 rows, AT THE SAME TIME on 4th row inc 17-19-14 (15-20) sts evenly = 156-170-184 (198-212) sts. Work next row as follows (from RS): 5 GARTER STS - see above (= front band), P2, M.1, * P6, M.3 *, repeat from *-* on the next 112-126-140 (154-168) sts, finish with P6, M.1, P2 and 5 GARTER STS (= front band). Continue in pattern like this until piece measures 7-7-7 (8-8) cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" (3 1/8"-3 1/8"). NOTE! Remember BUTTONHOLES - see above.
On next row from RS work 21 sts each side as before, K remaining sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 9-13-8 (9-14) sts evenly on these sts = 147-157-176 (189-198) sts. On next row from WS work 21 sts each side as before, K remaining sts.
Continue as follows (from RS): 5 garter sts, P2, M.1, P2, stockinette st on the next 105-115-134 (147-156) sts, P2, M.1, P2 and 5 garter sts.
Continue in pattern like this until piece measures 17-18-21 (24-27) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" (9½"-10 5/8").
Work next row as follows (from RS): 21 sts as before, 14-18-24 (26-29) stockinette sts (= right front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, 61-63-70 (79-82) stockinette sts (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, 14-18-24 (26-29) stockinette sts and 21 sts as before (= left front piece) = 131-141-160 (173-182) sts left on needle.
Cut the thread, put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 36-38-40 (42-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1½ with Alpaca. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 4 rounds GARTER ST – see above. Continue in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm / 2'' inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 6-5-5 (6-6) round a total of 6-7-9 (10-12) times = 48-52-58 (62-68) sts. Continue until piece measures 18-19-21 (25-29) cm / 7"-7½"-8 1/4" (9 3/4"-11 3/8"). Now bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (= 4 sts each side of marker) = 40-44-50 (54-60) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armhole = 211-229-260 (281-302) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
On next row from WS work 21 sts each side as before, K remaining sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 22-27-30 (33-36) sts evenly on these sts = 233-256-290 (314-338) sts. Continue as follows (as seen from RS):
5 garter st, P2, * M.1, P 11-11-12 (12-12) sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 9-10-11 (12-13) times and finish with M.1, P2 and 5 garter sts.
AT THE SAME TIME dec from RS on the right and left side alternately of each P-section (dec by P2 tog, NOTE! do not dec in P2 each side) on every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 6-7-8 (9-9) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1-1-2 (3-4) cm / 3/8"-3/8"-3/4" (1 1/8"-1½") work M.2 over all sts in M.1 (work remaining as before). After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 continue with M.3.
After all dec are complete there are 139-142-154 (154-165) sts on needle. Continue until piece measures approx 7-8-9 (10-11) cm / 2¾''-3 1/8''-3½'' (4''-4 3/8''), adjust to a full vertical repeat. Now work M.4 over M.3 (work remaining sts as before) = 99-98-106 (102-109) sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.4 K 1 row from RS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-10-14 (6-9) sts evenly = 86-88-92 (96-100) sts. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS and bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons.

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HAT:

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.4. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

Worked in the round, from bottom up. With Alpaca and circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 cast on 95-100-105 (110-120) sts. Work 8 rounds GARTER ST- see above. Work next round as follows: * K1, 1 YO, K2, 1 YO, K2, 1 YO, K2, 1 YO, K1, P 11-12-13 (14-16) *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times = 115-120-125 (130-140) sts. On next round work K over K and P over P - K all YO into back of loop to avoid a hole (= K12, P 11-12-13 (14-16)). Continue as follows: * M.1, P 11-12-13 (14-16) *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures approx 7-8-9 (10-11) cm / 2¾''-3 1/8''-3½'' (4''-4 3/8'') (adjust to a full repeat) work M.2 over M.1. NOTE! Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 when there are too few sts for circular needle. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work M.3 over M.2.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5 1/8''-5½'') dec 2 sts in each P-section, dec by P tog the 2 first sts and P tog the 2 last sts in each P-section. Dec on every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 4 times = 55-60-65 (70-80) sts.
Now work M.4 over M.3 = 35-40-45 (50-60) sts. On next round K all sts, AT THE SAME TIME K2 tog across the round = 18-20-23 (25-30) sts.
Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts on needle, tighten and fasten. Hat measures approx 14-15-16 (17-18) cm / 5½"-6"-6 1/4" (6 3/4"-18").


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BOOTIES:

PATTERN: See diagram M.5. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

SEED ST:
Round 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: K over P and P over K.
Repeat round 2.
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BOOTIE:
Piece worked in the round on double pointed needles, from top down.
Cast on 50-50-54 (58-62) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Alpaca. K 1 round on all sts and continue as follows:

SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months + 2 years:
K1, * P2/K2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 16-16-20 sts, P2, M.5 (= 12 sts), * P2/K2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 16-16-20 sts, P2, K1.

SIZE 12/18 months + 3/4 years:
P1, * K2/P2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 20-24 sts, M.5 (= 12 sts), * P2/K2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 20-24 sts, P1.

Continue like this until piece measures 6-7-7 (8-8) cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" (3 1/8"-3 1/8").
K 1 round on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly on round - do not dec on the 16 sts on upper foot (= M.5 + P2 each side) = 46-46-50 (54-58) sts. Keep the 16 sts on upper foot on needle and slip remaining 30-30-34 (38-42) sts on a stitch holder. Continue in M.5 with P2 each side back and forth on needle for 3-3.5-4 (5-6) cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1½" (2"-2 3/8"). On next row from RS dec 4 sts on M.5 = 12 sts left on upper foot. Now pick up 6-8-8 (10-14) sts on the side of upper foot, slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 6-8-8 (10-14) sts on the other side of upper foot = 54-58-62 (70-82) sts.
Continue in SEED ST - see above - in the round on all sts for 1.5-2-2.5 (3-3.5) cm / ½"-3/4"-7/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/4"), and now P 1 round on all sts.
Bind off all sts except the 12 sts on upper foot mid front. Work 9-10-11 (13-14) cm / 3½"-4"-4 3/8" (5 1/8"-5½") seed st back and forth on needle on these sts for sole.
Bind off and sew sole to side pieces, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K2 tog and K1 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2 tog, K1, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 tog and K1 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2 tog, K1, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
= K2 tog


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Annette 18.11.2020 - 17:58:

Die Jacke wird mit Knöpfen verschlossen. Allerdings finde ich in der Anleitung nicht, in welchem Reihenabstand die Knopflöcher gearbeitet werden sollen und bei welcher Masche vom Rand. Für eine Antwort danke ich Ihnen

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 09:48:

Liebe Annette, die Knopflöcher werden am Anfang der Anleitung unter KNOPFLÖCHER erklärt, bzw wie und wann man sie strikt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Karina 19.07.2018 - 11:51:

Hej! Stickar mössan. Vad betyder Rapp på höjden? Såhär står det: Sedan stickas det vidare så här: * M.1, 11-12-13 (14-16) am *, upprepa *-* totalt 5 ggr. Och vidare: KONTROLLERA STICKFASTHETEN! När arb mäter ca 7-8-9 (10-11) cm (avpassa efter färdig rapp på höjden) stickas M.2 över alla M.1. Betyder det då att jag ska fortsätta med samma sak fler än 5 gånger som det står där innan eller ska jag gå vidare direkt till M.2 över alla M.1? /Karina

DROPS Design 20.07.2018 kl. 14:14:

En rapport i höjden betyder att du ska sticka hela diagrammet (6 varv) innan du börjar på M.2.

Miriam 25.06.2018 - 13:53:

Dobrý den, prosím Vás, pletu kabátek a v tom sedle nerozumím tomu ubíraní. Píšete že ubírat střídavě...jak střídavě? Ne v každé skupine "obrace ok" mezi vrkůčkama ale v každý druhý skupine? a po 1 centimetru pletení zas v tý druhý skupině ubrat?

DROPS Design 27.06.2018 kl. 12:07:

Milá Miriam, pro vytvarování sedla ujímáme v každé skupině obrace pletených ok, 1 na pravé straně, 1 na levé. Hodně zdaru!

Anja 19.02.2018 - 16:25:

Bzgl. der Mütze: Ich stricke diese mit 100 M. und weiß nicht, wie ich hier vorgehen soll: "Die nächste R. wie folgt: * 1 re., 1 Umschlag, 2 re., 1 Umschlag, 2 re., 1 Umschlag, 2 re., 1 Umschlag, 1 re., 11-12-13 (14-16) li. *, von *-* total 5 Mal wiederholen = 115-120-125 (130-140) M." Wie gehe ich mit 100 M. vor? Ich gehe davon aus, dass es sich um "eine R." mit 100 M. handelt?

DROPS Design 20.02.2018 kl. 08:03:

Liebe Anja, wenn Sie über diese 100 Maschen von *bis* stricken, nehmen Sie 4 Maschen (= 4 Umschläge) in jedem Rapport (von *bis*), dann von *bis* 5 x wiederholen = 20 Maschen werden zugenommen, dann haben Sie 120 M am Ende der 1. Rd nach die 4 Krausrippen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Shelby 22.09.2015 - 06:12:

I am having a difficult time understanding how to do the yoke of this sweater. I am making a 1-3 month sweater and this instruction: "dec from RS on the right and left side alternately of each P-section (dec by P2 tog, NOTE! do not dec in P2 each side) on every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 6-7-8 (9-9) times." is very confusing for me. I don't understand what it means by "on the right and left side alternately" any help would be awesome! Thank you! -Shelby

DROPS Design 22.09.2015 kl. 11:01:

Dear Shelby, on first dec row you will work P2 tog on the right side of each P-section (= at the beg of each P-section), on next dec row you will work P2 tog on the left side of each P-section (= at the end of each P-section). Continue like this. Happy knitting!

Mary 14.04.2015 - 00:09:

I have a question about the booties. I'm making the 6/9 month size and just finished the cuff. Now, I've reached the part where the directions say to knit and decrease. When I go to slip the stitches, my working yarn ends up at the back and then crosses the inside of the bootie in order to knit back and forth. I feel like I must be misinterpreting the directions, but I can't seem to understand how to get the yarn to be in the right place. Can you please explain what I'm missing?

DROPS Design 14.04.2015 kl. 10:01:

Dear Mary, when you have the row with dec, cut the yarn, keep the 16 sts on upper foot on needle and slip remaining sts on a st holder. Work then the 16 sts as stated, then pick up sts along left side of upper foot, work sts from st holder, pick up sts along right side of upper foot, join in the round and continue working as explained. Happy knitting!

Claudine 19.03.2015 - 01:21:

J'ai fait ce bonnet pour ma petite fille. Vraiment très beau!

Claudine 19.03.2015 - 01:19:

J'ai fait ce bonnet pour ma petite-fille. Vraiment très beau.

Anna 24.11.2013 - 00:27:

Ich bin gerade dabei die Mütze zu stricken. Hierbei stellen sich mir zwei Fragen: 1) Es heißt: "nach ca. 7 cm (nach einem ganzen Rapport)M2 über M1 stricken. Werden die 7 ab Anschlag gemessen oder erst wenn man mit dem M1 Muster beginnt? 2) Wiederhole ich das M1 Muster während dieser 7 cm jede Runde oder stricke ich es nur zur Beginn einmal? Ich hoffe meine Fragen sind einigermaßen verständlich gestellt. Liebe Grüße und vielen Dank für die Hilfe =)

DROPS Design 25.11.2013 kl. 08:14:

Liebe Anna, es ist die Gesamthöhe gemeint (Frage 1). Bei Muster M1 ist jede Rd abgebildet, achten Sie darauf, dass es nicht nur aus Verzopfungen besteht, sondern natürlich auch aus Zwischenrunden in glatt re - wie im Diagramm abgebildet.

Steffi 16.11.2013 - 16:26:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht, wie man bei den Abnahmen bei der Passe (bei Gr. 86/92) auf 154 M kommt. Ich habe zuerst 314 und nehme (so wie ich das verstehe) 12 Linksteile x 9 alle 1 cm (=108 M) ab. das sind dann 314 - 108 = 206 M und nicht 154. Wo liegt mein Denkfehler? Ich bin ratlos. Vielen Dank schonmal für die Hilfe

DROPS Design 18.11.2013 kl. 14:34:

Liebe Steffi, im Mustersatz M2 sind weitere Abnahmen enthalten.

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