DROPS / 117 / 39

Raspberry Marmalade by DROPS Design

DROPS dress in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk” with 3/4 sleeves and bee hive pattern on yoke and along bottom edge. Size XS to XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-418

Size: XS – S - M – L – XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-84-94-104-110-120 cm / 30¾''-33''-37''-41''-43 3/8''-47¼''
Full length: 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm / 32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''-36¼''

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 3770, dark pink
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-175-200 g color no 13, cerise.

SILK RIBBON, 15 mm / ½'' wide in the color of your choice: 150-160-170-180-190-200 cm / 59"-63"-67"-70"-75"-80".

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 4.5 mm/us 7 – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
In M.1 width of 23 sts = 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – pattern in diagram is seen from RS.

DECREASING TIP (apply to darts on body piece): Work round to 2 sts before marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, (marker), K2 tog.
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DRESS: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 228-246-264-282-300-318 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and then continue in M.1 until piece measures approx 10 cm / 4'' – adjust to after 1 round stockinette st after the last cable. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 48-54-60-62-68-70 sts evenly = 180-192-204-220-232-248 sts. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 25 cm / 9 3/4'' insert 6 markers in piece as follows:MARKER-1 at the beg of round (= the side), work 23-24-26-28-29-31 sts, insert MARKER-2, work 44-48-50-54-58-62 sts, insert MARKER-3, work 23-24-26-28-29-31 sts, insert MARKER-4, (= the other side), work 23-24-26-28-29-31 sts insert MARKER-5, work 44-48-50-54-58-62 sts, insert MARKER-6.
On next round dec 1 st on each side of MARKER 2, 3, 5 and 6 for darts – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every 8th round a total of 7 times = 124-136-148-164-176-192 sts on round (no dec at the sides). Now remove Marker 2, 3, 5 and 6, and only leave the markers at the sides. Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 52 cm / 20½''. Now P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round and then work eyelet row as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* across the round. Now K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 56-56-68-76-76-84 sts evenly on the last round - inc by picking up st from previous round and K this. NOTE: Make sure to inc an equal number of sts on front and back piece = 180-192-216-240-252-276 sts. Continue in M.1. When piece measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm / 25¼''-25½''-26''-26 3/8''-26¾''-27 1/8'' bind off 6 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3 sts on each side of each marker). Now complete front and back pieces separately.

FRONT PIECE: = 84-90-102-114-120-132 sts. Continue in M.1, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beg of every row each side: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5-5 times = 74-80-86-92-92-98 sts. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side (K edge st on every row). When piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33'' slip the middle 20 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times = 20-23-26-29-29-32 sts left on shoulder. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm / 32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''-36¼'' work sts on shoulder as follows from RS: * K3, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* 4-4-5-5-5-6 times and finish with 0-3-1-4-4-2 K sts = 16-19-21-24-24-26 sts. Bind off all sts on next row.

BACK PIECE: = 84-90-102-114-120-132 sts. Bind off for armhole as described for front piece = 74-80-86-92-92-98 sts. Continue until piece measures 79-81-83-85-87-89 cm / 31''-32''-32 3/4''-33½''-34¼''-35''. Now dec 8 sts evenly on the middle 34 sts. On next row bind off the middle 24 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 20-23-26-29-29-32 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm / 32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''-36¼'' work sts on shoulder as described for front piece = 16-19-21-24-24-26 sts. Bind off all sts on next row.

SLEEVE: Worked in the round. Cast on 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. P 1 round, K 1 round, P1 round, and continue in stockinette st – insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' dec 1 st on each side of marker, and repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 4 times = 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' inc 1 st on each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 2.5-2-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm / 7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" a total of 10-11-11-12-13-14 times = 58-62-64-68-72-76 sts. When piece measures 35-35-34-33-32-31 cm / 13¾"-13¾"-13 3/8"-13"-12½"-12¼" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off 2 sts at the beg of every row each side until piece measures 42 cm / 16½'', then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time, and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 43 cm / 17''.
ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.
NECK: Pick up approx 76 to 90 sts round the neckline (includes sts on stitch holder at front) on small circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. Work stockinette st.
When neck measures 10 cm / 4'' inc 10 sts evenly, and repeat the inc when neck measures 20 and 25 cm / 8" and 9¾".
Now P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and bind off loosely in K sts.
Set in sleeves. Pull silk ribbon through eyelet row on body piece, beg and finish mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K1, K2 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K1 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 117-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Rachael Ayres 21.07.2019 - 11:13:

If my bust is 38 should I size up to 41 or down to 37?

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 09:03:

Dear Mrs Ayres, the best way to find the matching size is to measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements with the ones from the chart. read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Eileen Popplewell 07.01.2019 - 17:45:

I would like to make this dress longer as I am an older individual. Where would you suggest I add rows in the pattern to make the dress longer? Should I add rows between decreases? Please advise.

DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Popplewell, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every individual request. You can compare a similar dress you have and like the shape to the measurement chart - maybe add rather extra length at the bottom before the decrease to keep the shape? your DROPS store may have also more tips & advices for you, just contact them even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Sandomingo Lois Norette 11.10.2017 - 15:16:

Bonjour, Je souhaite commander de la laine drops kild-silk pour confectionner le modèle Raspberry marmalade mais la couleur n°13, cerise, n'existe pas/plus. Est-ce que le rose vif qui le remplace peut faire l'affaire?ou dois-je préférer le N°17, rose foncé. Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 11.10.2017 kl. 16:48:

Bonjour Mme Sandomingo, le coloris n°13 existe toujours, son nom a simplement été modifié. Votre magasin DROPS saura également toujours vous assister pour choisir les couleurs, même par mail ou téléphone, n'hésitez pas à le contacter. Bon tricot!

BORGNIEZ Jeanine 26.11.2015 - 09:59:

Bonjour, j'ai réalisé cette robe en rouge mais j'ai allongé les manches avec le motif du bas de la robe. Elle est magnifique !

Shiva 11.12.2013 - 22:45:

Sorry,i am confused with knitting in round.how can we make one round in k and one round in p ? In round we always knit k and automatically wrong side becomes purle.this means we should always knit in k . So how can we say k 1 round,p 1 round?

DROPS Design 12.12.2013 kl. 09:07:

Dear Shiva, when knitting in the round, K all rounds gives stocking st, and work alternately K1/P1 round gives garter st (see video below). Happy knitting!

Shiva 11.12.2013 - 13:27:

Can you please make more clear by what you mean with : AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beg of every row each side: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5-5 times and also what do you mean by : 4-4-5-5-5-6 times and finish with 0-3-1-4-4-2 K sts = 16-19-21-24-24-26 sts. Bind off all sts on next row.

DROPS Design 11.12.2013 kl. 14:12:

Dear Shiva, you continue on front piece in M.1 as before, and at the same time you shape armhole binding off each side every 2 rows: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5-5 times (see size). When piece measures 82-92 cm, work then on shoulder sts from RS: *K3,K2 tog*, repeat 4-6 times from *-* and finish row with K sts, and bind off on next row. Happy knitting!

Shiva 01.12.2013 - 21:11:

Hi, Can you put a tutorial video for the patern M1 for this model ?

DROPS Design 01.12.2013 kl. 21:30:

Dear Shiva, a tutorial video does exist for tha pattern, just take care because number of sts is not exactly the same. Happy knitting!

Ketlin 25.09.2013 - 13:12:

Leidsin väikese näpuka rubriigis varrukad. Kirjas on:"Kui töö kõrgus on 10cm, kahandada 1 silmus mõlemal pool ...... Seal peaks olema kasvatada 1 silmus mõlemal pool sest kuidas muidu silmade arvu suurendada.

Monika 01.12.2010 - 13:00:

Ich liebe dieses Kleid!

DROPS Design NL 14.05.2010 - 09:48:

Hoi. De hele jurk wordt met twee draden (1 draad Alpaca + 1 draad Kid Silk) gebreid. Dus ook M.1. Gr. Tine

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