DROPS / 113 / 1

Crazy in Love by DROPS Design

DROPS dress in ”Muskat” with crochet squares. Size S - XXXL.

  • Crazy in Love / DROPS 113-1 - DROPS dress in ”Muskat” with crochet squares. Size S - XXXL.
  • Crazy in Love / DROPS 113-1 - DROPS dress in ”Muskat” with crochet squares. Size S - XXXL.
DROPS design: model no. r-526
Yarn group B

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-90-100-110-120-130 cm /
33’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-43 3/8’’-47¼’’-51’’
Full length: 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm /
30¾’’-31½’’-32¼’’-33’’-33 7/8’’-34 5/8’’

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 61 beige
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 29 pink
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 40 coral
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 g color no 30 yellow

DROPS POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLES (80 cm / 32’’) size 4.5 mm / US 7 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 1 square = 9 x 9 cm /
3½’’ x 3½”.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st.

CROCHET TIP: Replace first dc on round with 3 ch and finish each round with 1 sl st in first st.
--------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------

DRESS: Worked in the round on circular needle from the bottom up. The squares are crochet and sewn on afterwards.
Cast on 216-216-252-252-288-288 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with beige.
P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round. Change to pink, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to coral, K 1 round and work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*. Change to pink, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to beige, K 1 round, P 1 round, 5 cm / 2’’ stockinette st and P 1 round.
Change to coral, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to yellow, K 1 round and work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*. Change to coral, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to beige, K 1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-4-20-4-20-0 sts evenly = 200-212-232-248-268-288 sts. Now continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 18 cm / 7’’ insert 6 markers in piece as follows: Work 32-34-38-40-43-46 sts, Marker-1, work 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts, Marker-2, work 32-34-38-40-43-46 m, Marker-3 (the side), work 32-34-38-40-43-46 sts, Marker-4, work 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts, Marker-5, work 32-34-38-40-43-46 sts, Marker-6 (the side).
On next round dec 1 st on each side of Marker -3 and Marker-6 (i.e. at the sides) –
SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every 6th round a total of 9 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when doing the 5th-5th-5th-6th-6th-6th dec, also dec 1 st on each side of the other markers as follows: AFTER Marker-1 and Marker-4 and BEFORE Marker-2 and Marker-5 – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat these dec on every 6th round (i.e. on the same rounds as dec at the sides) a total of 5-5-5-4-4-4 times.
When all dec are complete there are 144-156-176-196-216-236 sts on round. Now remove Maker-1, -2, -4 and -5.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-17’’-17¼’’-17¾’’ inc 1 st on each side of markers at the sides - SEE INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc on every 3rd round a total of 6 times = 168-180-200-220-240-260 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures
45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾’’-18’’-18½’’-19’’-19¼’’-19¾’’ P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to pink, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to coral, K 1 round and work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*. Change to pink, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to beige, K 1 round and P 1 round. On next round bind off the middle 36 sts (for crochet squares) = 132-144-164-184-204-224 sts. Continue back and forth on needle in stockinette st with 3 garter sts – see above - each side towards mid front.
ARMHOLE: When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm / 23 5/8’’-24’’-24 3/8’’-24¾’’-25¼’’-25½’’ work 4 rows garter st on 10-10-12-14-16-18 sts each side (i.e. 5-5-6-7-8-9 sts on each side of both markers), work remaining sts as before. Now bind off the middle 4-4-6-8-10-12 of these sts for armhole each side and complete each piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 22-25-29-33-37-41 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 3 garter sts each side, AT THE SAME TIME after 3 cm / 1 1/8’’ inc for wide shoulder as follows: 1 st on the inside of 3 garter sts – SEE INCREASING TIP – work the inc st in stockinette st. Repeat the inc on every 4-4-6-6-6-6 row a total of 6-5-3-3-3-3 times = 28-30-32-36-40-44 sts. When piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½’’-30 3/8’’-31’’-32’’-32¾’’-33½’’ bind off to shape the shoulder at the beg of every row towards neckline: 7-7-8-9-10-11 sts 3 times, then the remaining 7-9-8-9-10-11 sts. Piece now measures approx 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾’’-31½’’-32¼’’-33’’-33 7/8’’-34 5/8’’ where longest.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: = 22-25-29-33-37-41 sts. Like left front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE = 80-86-94-102-110-118 sts. Inc for wide shoulder each side as described for front piece = 92-96-100-108-116-124 sts. When piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm / 28¾’’-29½’’-30 3/8’’-31’’-32’’-32¾’’ work 4 rows garter st on 42 sts mid back (work remaining sts as before) and on next row cast of the middle 36 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. When piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½’’-30 3/8’’-31’’-32’’-32¾’’-33½’’ bind off to shape the shoulder as described for front piece. Piece now measures approx 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾’’-31½’’-32¼’’-33’’-33 7/8’’-34 5/8’’ where longest.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

SQUARE COLORS:
Crochet the squares in 2 color combinations:
SQUARE-A: Cast on work round 1 and 2 in coral. Round 3 = yellow. Round 4, 5 and 6 = pink
SQUARE-B: Cast on and work round 1 and 2 in yellow. Round 3 = pink. Round 4, 5 and 6 = coral.

BOBBLE: 3 dc crochet tog, i.e. wait with the last pull through in each dc until all 3 dc are crochet, yarn over hook and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

SQUARES:
Work 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with a sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring – SEE CROCHET TIP!
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: 2 dc in each sc = 24 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in dc, 3 ch, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* = 12 ch-loops
ROUND 5: Crochet as follows in the first ch-loop [-]: * [ 1 bobble - see above, 2 ch, 1 bobble, 4 ch (= corner), 1 bobble, 2 ch, 1 bobble], then continue with 3 ch, skip next ch-loop, 1 hdc in sc, 3 ch, skip next ch-loop*.

Repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, but the last time finish after 3 ch with 1 sl st at the top of the first bobble.
ROUND 6: * 2 sc in the first 2-ch-loop, 6 sc in next 4-ch-loop (= corner), 2 sc in next 2-ch-loop, 3 sc in next 3-ch-loop, 3 sc in next 3-ch-loop *, repeat from *-*.
Square now measures approx 9 x 9 cm / 3½’’ x 3½”.

Crochet 8-8-9-9-10-10 squares in each color combination = a total of 16-16-18-18-20-20 squares. Sew 12-12-14-14-16-16 squares tog to a long row, edge to edge to make a neat seam – alternate the color combinations – and sew tog to form a ring. Sew the row of squares to dress along bottom edge.
Sew the last 4 squares tog so that the color combinations sit vertically opposite each other, but leave an opening between the 2 top squares ( = split for neck). Now sew the squares to neckline, edge to edge to make a neat seam.

PICOT BORDER: Crochet a picot border along bottom edge of dress with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and beige as follows: * 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 sc *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Crochet a similar border round armholes with pink.
Crochet a picot border round neckline with pink as follows: Beg mid front on the left side of split with 1 sc and now crochet 25 cm / 9¾” LOOSE ch, turn and work 1 sl st in each ch (= tie string). Work a picot border as described above round neckline and finish with 1 tie string as described for the other side.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.04.2009
BOBBLE: 3 dc crochet tog, i.e. wait with the last pull through in each dc until all 3 dc are crochet, yarn over hook and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

SQUARES:
Work 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with a sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring – SEE CROCHET TIP!
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: 2 dc in each sc = 24 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in dc, 3 ch, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* = 12 ch-loops
ROUND 5: Crochet as follows in the first ch-loop [-]: * [ 1 bobble - see above, 2 ch, 1 bobble, 4 ch (= corner), 1 bobble, 2 ch, 1 bobble], then continue with 3 ch, 1 hdc in sc between the next 2 ch-loops, 3 ch, in next ch-loop crochet as in first ch-loop [-] *.
Repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, but the last time finish after 3 ch with 1 sl st at the top of the first bobble.
ROUND 6: * 2 sc in the first 2-ch-loop, 6 sc in next 4-ch-loop (= corner), 2 sc in next 2-ch-loop, 3 sc in next 3-ch-loop, 3 sc in next 3-ch-loop *, repeat from *-*.
Updated online: 20.04.2009
Cast on 216-216-252-252-288-288 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with beige.
P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round. Change to pink, K 1 round and P 1 round. Change to tomato, K 1 round and work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*. Change to pink, K 1 round and P 1 round.
Updated online: 28.04.2009
Material: 350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 61 beige
Updated online: 27.07.2018
Round 5 on square has been edited.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 113-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (167)

country flag Anita 19.07.2018 - 21:23:

Vildt flot kjole. Jeg har dog et lille problem med de hæklede ruder? Synes opskriften er svær at tyde mht til dem. Er ellers en ret habil hækler, men disse ser helt forkerte ud hvis jeg følger opskriften. Er der noget jeg overser måske?

user icon DROPS Design 27.07.2018 kl. 10:22:

Hei Anita. Etter å ha gått gjennom denne oppskiriften fant vi en feil på omgang 5 som kan skape forvirring. Det som skal gjentas totalt 4 ganger er som følger: * [1 boble se forkl, 2 lm, 1 boble, 4 lm (= hjørne), 1 boble, 2 lm, 1 boble], 3 lm, hopp over neste lm-bue, 1 halvst i fm, 3 lm, hopp over enste lm-bue * Det som skal hekles i neste luftmaskebue er første del av neste repetisjon. Dette er nå rettet i oppskriften. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse.

country flag Karin 23.03.2018 - 07:38:

Vielen Dank

country flag Karin 22.03.2018 - 21:15:

Beim Rückenteil sollten für Größe M 96 Maschen verbleiben, es sind aber nur noch 86 Maschen ?

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2018 kl. 23:17:

Liebe Karin, Sie haben Recht, es sind zunächst 86 Maschen, es wird dann wie bei den Vorderteilen zugenommen, bis 96 Maschen vorhanden sind. Die Angabe der Maschenzahl wurde beim Rückenteil ergänzt. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

country flag Neumann Karin 08.03.2018 - 18:22:

" Die Abnahmen bei jeder 6. R. (d.h. bei der gleichen R. wie auf den Seiten) total 5-5-5-4-4-4 Mal wiederholen.Nach allen Abnahmen sind 144-156-176-196-216-236 M. übrig. Markierungsfaden 1, 2, 4 und 5 herausnehmen." ich habe nach den ganzen Abnahmen 20 Maschen weniger auf der Nadel als angegeben. lt. Anleitung werden insgesamt 72 Maschen abgenommen, aber nur 52 gerechnet, oder wird an den Seiten nicht mehr abgenommen?

user icon DROPS Design 09.03.2018 kl. 08:51:

Liebe Frau Neumann, in der 3 letzten Größen werden 52 M insgesamt abgenommen: 1 M auf beiden Seiten der 3. und 6. Markierung x 9= 9x4= 36 M an den Seiten sind abgenommen. Dazu werden 1 M nach 1. und 4. Markierungen + 1 M vor der 2. und der 5. Markierung 4 x abgenommen: 4 M x 4 = 16 M abgenommen. Es sind insgesamt 36+16= 52 M abgenommen: 248-268-288 - 52 = 196-216-236 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Merje 05.06.2017 - 22:21:

Tere! Valmistan seda kaunist kleiti ning töö käigus jäi silma, et heegeldatud ruutude värvikombinatsioonis on ruudul B jäänud 3. ringi värvitoon (roosa) märkimata. :)

country flag Sara 25.04.2017 - 18:03:

Vorrei eseguire questo bellissimo modello, ma con la gonna più ad A, cioè più svasata rispetto al modello. Mi potreste per favore aiutare a ricalcolare le misure (maglie e diminuzioni) nella taglia S? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 25.04.2017 kl. 19:40:

Buonasera Sara, non possiamo fornire assistenza individuale per tutte le modifiche ai modelli, però si può rivolgere al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia per ricevere un'assistenza personalizzata. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lena Arnryd 20.10.2016 - 22:58:

Om jag vill göra ärmar på denna, finns det någon klänning, top eller tunika som jag kan använda ärmmönstret så det passar?

user icon DROPS Design 21.10.2016 kl. 15:15:

Hej Lena. Jeg ville kigge paa andre kjoler i Muskat - eller en bluse i Muskat. Og en model der sidder nogenlunde stramt som den her (ikke oversized)

country flag Christiane Beyer 10.08.2016 - 14:57:

Hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit den Häkelquadraten ab Rd 5… Das Zwischen den eckigen Klammern wird nur auf einen Lm-Bogen gehäkelt? Wie geht es dann nach der Klammer weiter? Die 3 Lm überspringen den nächsten Bogen vor dem halben stb? Verstehe die Aussage "in den ersten Lm-Bogen" danach nicht… Bitte Hilfe! LG Christiane

user icon DROPS Design 15.08.2016 kl. 08:04:

Liebe Christiane, vielen Dank für den Hinweis. In Runde 5 sind Übersetzungsfehler, die wir umgehend beheben werden und für die wir uns entschuldigen.

country flag Catharina Andersson 27.12.2015 - 11:21:

Hej! Jag är en van virkare och ovan stickare men med denna är det tvärtom. Jag får inte till rutorna på varv 5. Menar nu att det ska gå plats 4 mushar på varje luftmaskbåge? Men om det är så kommer jag ju inte varvet runt på 4 upprepningar! Hjälp!!!

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2016 kl. 14:11:

Hej Catharina, Jo i varje hörn virkas enligt klammen, och på varje sida upprepas *-*. Lycka till

country flag Annica Alienus 05.12.2015 - 11:08:

Hej Jag undrar hur jag kan göra för att göra denna klänningen längre? Kan jag bara öka antalet varv innan framstycket?

user icon DROPS Design 07.12.2015 kl. 08:15:

Hej. Om du vill göra den längre så stickar du bara fler varv längst ner på klänningen (innan eller efter ränderna, beroende på var du vill ha ränderna på klänningen). Lycka till!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 113-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.