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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS
  5. 147
  6. 9

Summer Patchwork by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with ¾ sleeves and granny squares in ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, granny square, jacket, patchwork, sewn in sleeves, square neck

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DROPS 147-9
DROPS design: Pattern no z-643
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Size: XS/S - M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-92-104-118-130 cm / 30 3/4"-36 1/4"-41"-46½"-51½"
Full length: 46-52-52-59-59 cm / 18"-20½"-20½"-23 1/4"-23 1/4"

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-250 g color no 0100, off white
50-100-100-100-100 g color no 6205, light blue
50-100-100-100-100 g color no 7300, lime
50-50-50-100-100 g color no 2921, pink
50-50-50-100-100 g color no 3140, light pink
50-50-50-100-100 g color no 3770, dark pink
50-50-50-50-50 g color no 2915, orange
50-50-50-50-50 g color no 2923, goldenrod
50-50-50-50-50 g color no 6347, gray purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 1 square to measure 6.5 x 6.5 cm / 2½" x 2½". When working dc; approx. 23 dc x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 4.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.35$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
COLORS ON SQUARES:
Last round (= color 4) on all squares is off white.

SQUARE A: Color 1 = lime, color 2 = orange, color 3 = light blue.
SQUARE B: Color 1 = goldenrod, color 2 = light pink, color 3 = dark pink.
SQUARE C: Color 1 = light blue, color 2 = lime, color 3 = orange.
SQUARE D: Color 1 = dark pink, color 2 = light pink, color 3 = lime.
SQUARE E: Color 1 = light pink, color 2 = pink, color 3 = goldenrod.
SQUARE F: Color 1 = pink, color 2 = gray purple, color 3 = light blue.
SQUARE G: Color 1 = gray purple, color 2 = light blue, color 3 = light pink.
SQUARE H: Color 1 = pink, color 2 = gray purple, color 3 = lime.
SQUARE I: Color 1 = orange, color 2 = goldenrod, color 3 = dark pink.
SQUARE J: Color 1 = light blue, color 2 = lime, color 3 = pink.

GRANNY SQUARE:
Ch 6 on hook size 3 mm / C with color 1 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.

ROUND 1 (color 1):
ch3 , 2 dc in ch-ring, * ch 3, 3 dc in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.

ROUND 2 (color 2):
ch3 , 2 dc in first ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.

ROUND 3 (color 3):
ch3 , 2 dc in first ch-space, ch 1, * 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.

ROUND 4 (color 4):
ch3 , 2 dc in first ch-space, ch 1, * 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut the yarn.

1 square measures approx. 6.5 x 6.5 cm / 2½" x 2½".

Work 12-14-15-20-21 squares of every color combination, work in addition 0-2-2-8-8 extra squares (choose your own color combination on these squares) = 120-142-152-208-218 squares in total.

SLEEVE GUSSET:
Work a piece with dc shaped as a gusset to be sewn under sleeve so it is wider at the top than the at bottom. Replace first dc on every row with 3 ch.
Work 7-8-8-8-8 ch on hook size 3 mm / C with off white. Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in the remaining 3-4-4-4-4 ch = 5-6-6-6-6 dc.
Continue back and forth with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 10 cm / 4''.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE FINISHING!
On next row inc 1 dc in each side by working 2 dc in next to last dc in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2-2-2-2 rows a total of 9-12-12-12-12 times.
NOTE: In size XS/S continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 33 cm / 13''.
In sizes M and XXL divide the piece in the middle when it measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'', then work each side separately with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 33 cm / 13''.
In sizes L/XL and XXXL divide the piece in the middle when it measures 26 cm / 10 1/4'', then work each side separately, when inc is done, with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 33 cm / 13''.
The piece is divided in the 4 largest sizes because of dec for armholes. This is not done in the smallest size.
Work another sleeve gusset.

Place the squares tog for back and front piece as shown on diagram – you can choose in which order you want to put the squares.
Distribute the remaining 40-40-40-60-60 squares for 2 sleeves, with 20-20-20-30-30 squares on each sleeve.
In the 3 smallest sizes there should be 4 x 5 squares and in the 2 largest sizes there should be 6 x 5 squares - there are 5 squares vertically in all sizes.
Sew the squares tog edge to edge with off white.
Sew sleeve gusset to each side of squares on sleeves and sew sleeves in body – with the widest part of gusset in the bottom of armhole.
Then sew the side seams and shoulder seams the same way – NOTE: In sizes M and XXL there is 1 row with squares in the middle of each side under armhole, in sizes L/XL and XXXL there are 2 rows with squares in each side under armhole.

Work around the entire jacket with off white as follows (beg mid back of neck): 1 sc in 1 ch at the edge of 1 square, ch 3 and 2 dc in same ch, * ch 1, 3 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-*.
NOTE: In the corners faced inwards work as follows: 1 dc in last ch before corner, 1 dc in the corner and 1 dc in first ch after corner. In the corners faced outwards work as follows: 3 dc in ch-space in the corner on square, 3 ch and 3 more dc in the same ch-space.
In every corner at the top by neck also work a tie as follows: 3 dc in ch-space in the corner on square, then work loose ch for approx. 28 cm / 11'', turn and work 1 sc in every ch on the way back, then 3 dc in the same ch-space in the corner.

Work the same way at bottom around the sleeves – over the section between the squares work as follows: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (182)

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo .. ich finde die Anleitung super nur leider ist für die ärmel kein bild dabei .. wie funktioniert das mit dem Keil und wie wird es angenäht.. ein bild wäre sehr hilfreich Bitte um Hilfe.. danke Lg anita

02.04.2023 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, den Keil wird unter den Ärmel sein (auf dem 2. Foto kann man ein Teil davon sehen), damit die Ärmel oben breiter sind. So wird man nur mit natur häkeln und nach 10 cm beidseitig zunehmen. Je nach der Grösse wird dann mann den Keil in 2 teilen und jedes Teil separat bis zur Ende fertig häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.04.2023 kl. 10:53

country flag Grada Kreijkes wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben bezig met de Summer Patchwork vestje Ik kom er maar niet achter hoe het moet met de mouwen Hoe moet ik ze aan de 'mouwspie' zetten? Daar kom ik niet uit... Ik zou het vestje graag af hebben, is zooo mooi Bedankt voor het patroon!!! H.G., Grada Kreijkes

21.02.2023 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Grada,

Als je onderaan het patroon de maattekening bekijkt, dan zie je dat er bij de oksels een inham zit. Het laatste stukje van de naad onder aan de mouw naai je niet dicht op de mouw, maar naai je aan het voor- en achterpand. Dit is wat de 'mouwspie'.

22.02.2023 kl. 13:08

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour Je fais le modèle en taille x/xs. J'ai fini de coudre tous les carrés et je ne comprends pas comment coudre les goussets aux manches. Dois je partir du haut de la manche jusqu'en bas ? Sur le schéma sur les devants il y a 2 petits traits. Correspondent ils a l'emmanchure ? Merci de m'aider car là je bloque complètement. Cordialement

24.09.2022 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, le gousset des manches permet de leur donner la forme "triangulaire" pour que la manche soit plus large en haut qu'en bas, on fait 2 gousset et on coud au milieu sous la manche ; ce gousset se fait de bas en haut. Les tirets sur les devants correspondent effectivement à la hauteur d'emmanchures - vous allez coudre le haut des manches + le gousset à ce niveau. Bon crochet!

26.09.2022 kl. 09:13

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour Pour les manches qu''entendez vous par gousset. C'est un terme et une technique que je connais pas du tout ? Merci pour votre aide

06.09.2022 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, c'est une petite pièce triangulaire qui va être crochetée côté milieu sous la manche pour lui donner sa forme plus serrée en bas et plus large en haut. Il en faudra 2 au total, 1 pour chaque manche. Bon crochet!

06.09.2022 kl. 12:02

country flag Hanne wrote:

Kan man ikke hækle firkanterne sammen, frem for at sy dem? Det bliver så neget pænere. Kan tænke mig, at sammenhækling fyldet lidt mere, men det gør ikke noget, for mig, det skal jeg nok regulere til. Bedste hilsner, Hanne

13.05.2022 - 04:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, jo selvfølgelig kan du det. Rigtig god fornøjelse!

13.05.2022 kl. 07:37

country flag Pouillon wrote:

Summer Patchwork Drops design Model nr. Z-643 Hoe maak ik de mouwen(sleeves), hoeveel vierkantjes(granny squares) heb ik nodig en hoe monteer ik deze Graag wat meer uitleg aub Hartelijk dank 30.04.2022 - 08:17

30.04.2022 - 10:40

country flag Pouillon wrote:

Summer Patchwork Drops design Model nr. Z-643 Hoe maak ik de mauwen, hoeveel vierkantjes(granny squares) heb ik nodig en hoe monteer ik deze Graag wat meer uitleg aub

30.04.2022 - 08:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Pouillon,

Je haakt in totaal 120-142-152-208-218 vierkantjes (120 voor de kleinste maat en 218 voor de grootste maat.) De overgebleven vierkantjes zijn voor beide mouwen. Onderaan staat een schema in elke maat hoe de vierkantjes aan elkaar komen op het achterpand en de voorpanden. Onderaan de mouw, zeg maar in de oksel wordt een driehoekig stuk gehaakt (met een split erin) in stokjes om de mouw aan de bovenkant wijder te maken dan aan de onderkant. Dit wordt uitgelegd bij de paragraaf 'MOUWSPIE'.

09.05.2022 kl. 16:40

country flag Rossella wrote:

Si potrebbero avere le spiegazioni in italiano? Grazie mille

13.02.2022 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rossella, aquesto link trova le spiegazioni in italiano. Buon lavoro!

14.02.2022 kl. 19:35

country flag VINCENZA wrote:

Salve, vorrei realizzare questo modello con un filato diverso e un po' più lungo, tipo cardigan. Avevo in mente il filato Karisma, ma non trovo nel calcolatore nessun riscontro con questo filato differente. Vorrei sapere la quantità necessaria per realizzarlo nel filato che ho scelto in alternativa, in modo tale da poter ordinare quella giusta Grazie.

15.11.2021 - 23:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Vincenza, probabilmente non riesce a trovare riscontro perchè Alpaca è un filato che appartiene al gruppo filati A mentre Karisma al gruppo filati B. Può sostituire Alpaca con un altro filato che appartiene al gruppo A: provi a guardare questo link se le può essere utile. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2021 kl. 22:08

country flag Christina wrote:

Jag förstår inte detta med kilen. Hur kan den bli 33 cm? Förstår INTE hur man ska göra. Hade varit bra med en bild på hur detta fungerar

10.06.2021 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christina. Vi har dessverre ikke et eget bilde av ermkilen. Du hekler et eget kile stykke. I f.eks str XS/S hekles det 7 luftmasker, snu og hekle 1 stav i 4.lm fra nåla, videre hekles det 1 st i hver av de resterende 3 luftmaskene = 5 staver. Fortsett frem og tilbake med 1 stav i hver stav til arb måler 10 cm. Nå skal det økes i hver side ved å hekle 2 staver i nest ytterste stav på hver 3. rad 9 ganger. Når økningen er ferdig, hekles det 1 stav i hver stav til arbeidet måler 33 cm. mvh DROPS design

14.06.2021 kl. 10:38

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Crochet Cardigan

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