DROPS Baby / 16 / 16

Miss Mossy Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with seamless sleeves for baby and children in DROPS Eskimo

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Bust: 50-58-62 (70-76) cm
[19 ¾”-22 ¾”-24 3/8” (27½”-30”)]
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm
[10 5/8”-11 3/8”-13” (14½”-15¾”)]

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
200-250-250 (300-350) g color no 01, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm [24”]) size 8 mm [US 11] – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 501: 4-4-5 (5-5) pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

Dec as follows from RS after 3 garter sts:
slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows from RS before 3 garter st:
K2 tog.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

BUTTONHOLES: Bind off for buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 3rd st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE: 1/3 months: 3, 10, 16 and 22 cm [1”,4”,6¼”,8¾”]
SIZE 6/9 months: 3, 10, 17 and 24 cm [1”,4”,6¾”,9½”]
SIZE 12/18 months: 4, 10, 16, 22 and 28 cm [1½”,4”,6¼”,8¾”,11”]
SIZE 2 years: 4, 11, 18, 25 and 31 cm
[1½”,4 3/8”,7”,9¾”,12¼”]
SIZE 3/4 years: 4, 12, 19, 27 and 34 cm [1½”,4¾”,7½”,10 5/8”,13 3/8”]
Worked in one piece. Beg at bottom of front piece, cast on sts for sleeves and finish at bottom of back piece. To fit in all sts work jacket back and forth on circular needle.

Cast on 18-20-21 (23-25) sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 3 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Eskimo. Work 6 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. Continue in stockinette st with 3 garter sts on front band towards mid front.
When piece measures 13-14-17 (20-22) cm [5 1/8”-5½”-6¾” (8”-8¾”)] work 2 rows garter st on all sts and now continue in moss st – SEE ABOVE – with front band in garter st as before. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm [6¼”-6¾”-8” (9”-9¾”)] cast on new sts at side for sleeve. Cast on at the end of every row towards the side: 4 sts 1-1-2 (2-3) times, 5 sts 1-1-1 (1-1) time and 8-9-8 (12-12) sts 1 time = 35-38-42 (48-54) sts. Incorporate inc sts in moss st as you go along. NOTE! After the last inc work 3 sts at side in garter st (= sleeve edge). When piece measures 22-24-28 (31-34) cm [8¾”-9½”-11” (12¼”-13 3/8”)] work 2 rows garter st on 9-10-10 (11-11) sts towards mid front (including the 3 front band sts) - work remaining sts as before. On next row from mid front bind off the first 6-7-7 (8-8) sts for neck and now bind off to shape the neckline on every other row – SEE DECREASING TIP: 1 st 2 times = 27-29-33 (38-44) sts left on shoulder/sleeve.
Continue in moss st with 3 garter sts each side (= neckline and sleeve edge). When piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm
[10 5/8”-11 3/8”-13” (14½”-15¾”)] insert a marker (= mid shoulder). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
When piece measures 1 cm [3/8’’] inc 1 st inside the 3 garter sts on neckline on next row from RS – SEE INCREASING TIP = 28-30-34 (39-45) sts. Work return row and now slip sts on a stitch holder.

Cast on and work like left front piece, but mirrored. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES – SEE ABOVE.

Work sts from left front piece in on needle, cast on 8-10-10 (12-12) new sts for neckline on back piece and work sts from right front piece in on needle = 64-70-78 (90-102) sts.
Continue as follows: 3 garter sts, 22-24-28 (33-39) moss sts, 14-16-16 (18-18) garter sts (= neckline), 22-24-28 (33-39) moss sts, 3 garter sts.
After 6 rows garter st on neckline continue in moss st on these sts. When piece measures 8-8-9 (9-9) cm [3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3½” (3½”-3½”)] loosely bind off sleeve sts. Bind off as follows each side at the beg of every row: 8-9-8 (12-12) sts 1 time, 5 sts 1-1-1 (1-1) time and 4 sts 1-1-2 (2-3) times = 30-34-36 (40-44) sts. When piece measures approx 14-15-16 (17-18) cm [5½”-6”-6¼” (6¾”-7”)] (make sure to have the same amount of rows in moss st as on front piece) work 2 rows garter st on all sts. Now continue in stockinette st. When piece measures approx 24-26-30 (34-37) cm [9½”-10¼”-11¾” (13 3/8”-14½”)] (adjust to front piece) work 6 rows garter st on all sts. Bind off loosely.

Fold piece double by shoulder and sew under arm and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Danielle 07.03.2019 - 02:07:

Quand on reprend les mailles du devant gauche pour faire la partie du dos, est-ce qu’on doit tricoter ces mailles qu’on reprend? Merci

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 09:14:

Bonjour Danielle, tout à fait, on tricote les mailles du devant gauche, on monte les mailles de l'encolure et on tricote les mailles du devant droit = on a maintenant toutes les mailles sur les aiguilles et on continue le dos. Bon tricot!

Danielle 16.02.2019 - 20:07:

J’ai dû ajouter 1 maille au milieu du dos après les 6 rangs au point mousse de l’encolure car si non j’arriverais avec 2 mailles à l’envers de suite lorsque qu’il faut continuer au point de riz... je ne semble pourtant ne pas avoir fait d’erreur, je ne comprends pas ce que j’ai fait de ne pas correct 🤷‍♀️

Elizabeth 06.06.2018 - 01:15:

Saudações Existe lãs Drops à venda no Brasil? Obrigada

DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 16:37:

Boa tarde, Por enquanto, não existe uma loja DROPS no Brasil, mas pode encomendar nossos fios online em qualquer uma de nossas lojas que vendem para o mundo inteiro. Basta conferir na página de nossas lojas. Bom tricô!

Ria Visser 05.03.2018 - 09:39:

Geachte lezer, Ik ben het babyvestje patroon nr 16-16 aan het breien. Ik ben met het linkervoorpand bezig en ben nu bij het volgende aangekomen: Kant in de volgende naald middenvoor de eerste 6-7-7 (8-8) st af voor de hals en kant af voor de hals om de naald – ZIE TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN: 2 keer 1 st = 27-29-33 (38-44) st over voor de schouder/mouw. Nu is mijn vraag wanneer ik deze steken af moet kanten, moet ik dan alsnog wel de eerste 3 steken in ribbel breien?

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 19:37:

Hallo Ria, Je kant gewoon af vanaf het begin en breit vervolgens zoals de steken zich voordoen, je hoeft dus geen ribbel meer te breien.

Migmar 04.12.2017 - 06:12:

Bonjour, Je fais actuellement le modèle Miss Mossy Jacket, cependant il y a une explication que je n'arrive pas à comprendre. Arrivé en haut du coté Droit on demande de mettre 1 marqueur et d'augmenter 1 m en 3 m mais je ne sais pas si c'est au niveau du marqueur ou juste après les 3 m mousses coté encolure. L'augmentation se fait 1 cm après le marqueur , mais là je pense que le cm correspond a la hauteur(?). Cordialement.

DROPS Design 04.12.2017 kl. 10:36:

Bonjour Mme Migmar, on doit augmenter 1 maille à 3 maille point mousse du bord, c'est-à-dire pour le devant gauche on augmente avant ces 3 m point mousse (sur l'endroit = en fin de rang) et pour le devant droit, on va augmenter après ces 3 m point mousse (= en début de rang sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

Sara 18.11.2017 - 17:22:

Hallo! Am Ende der Vorderteile soll man nach einem cm Krausrippe (also nach der zweiten der drei Maschen, nehme ich an) eine Masche aufnehmen. Soll das in der Krausrippe des Ärmelabschlusses oder des Halsausschnitts geschehen? Und warum ist es wichtig so die Maschen stillzulegen, dass die nächste Reihe von rechts gestrickt werden kann? Danke für eine kurze Antwort! Sara

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 09:19:

Liebe Sara, die letzte Reihe bei beiden Vorderteile müssen eine Rückreihe sein, damit diese Maschen für den Rückenteil von der Vorderseite bei der 1. Reihe gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rannveig 15.03.2017 - 21:26:

Ved felling mot hals 1 maske 2 ganger skal det strikkes 3 masker rillestrikk før felling av desse maskene?

DROPS Design 16.03.2017 kl. 13:37:

Hei Rannveig. Ja, se som i FELLETIPS: Fell slik fra retten etter 3 m rille: Ta 1 m løs av p som om den skulle strikkes rett, 1 rett, løft den løse m over. Fell slik fra retten før 3 m rille: 2 rett sm.

René 13.01.2017 - 07:23:

Bonjour merci d'avoir essayé de m'aide pourtant c'est bien ce que j'ai fait mais sa ne fonctionne pas :-( la manche fait 9 cm bon tant pis merci quand même

DROPS Design 13.01.2017 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour René, avez-vous le bon échantillon? Avec 11 m = 10 cm, quand vous augmentez 4+5+9 = 18 m, vous obtenez env. 16 cm pour la manche. Bon tricot!

René 11.01.2017 - 20:11:

Sur le côté du devant gauche ..j'ai aug 4 mailles tricoter le rang entier ensuite j'ai refait un aller jusqu'au aug j'en n'ai rajouté encore 4 ensuite j'ai fait le retour un aller j'ai rajouter 5 mailles retour un aller jusqu'au côté j'ai rajouter les 9 dernières mailles voilà et cela me fait une manche de 9 cm de long :-( j'ai du mal faire le travail je suis perdu car j'aime beaucoup de que j'ai fait mais je but sur a manche :-( à l'aide

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour René, si vous tricotez la 2ème taille, il vous faudra alors augmenter sur le côté: 1 x 4 mailles, puis 1 x 5 mailles et 1 x 9 mailles pour un total de 38 mailles. Bon tricot!

Rene 11.01.2017 - 16:19:

Bonjour je voudrais avoir de l'aide s'il vous plait je suis arrivé ici et je ne comprend pas les augmentations :-/ 2 × 4 mailles ? cela veut dire cas la fin du rangs je doit rajouté 4 mailles refaire un rang et augmenter encore une fois 4 mailles ? merci pour votre aide 16-17-20 (23-25) cm de hauteur totale, augmenter pour la manche tous les rangs en fin de rang sur le côté : 1-1-2 (2-3) fois 4 m, 1-1-1 (1-1) fois 5 m et 1 fois 8-9-8 (12-12) m = 35-38-42

DROPS Design 11.01.2017 kl. 18:28:

Bonjour René, pour augmenter 2 x 4 m sur le côté, montez 4 m à la fin d'un rang sur l'envers (= devant gauche) tournez et tricotez le rang retour sur l'endroit. À la fin du rang suivant sur l'envers, montez 4 m, tournez et tricotez le rang retour, et ainsi de suite pour les autres mailles à augmenter sur le côté. Bon tricot!

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