DROPS / 105 / 1

DROPS 105-1 by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with pleats and ¾-sleeves or long sleeves in “Silke-Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL.

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Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 33"-37"-40"–43.4"-48.7"-53½"
Hem: 41"-48.7"-52"–59.7"-70"- 74.7"
Full length: 23.6"-24.4"-25.2"-26"-26.7"-27½"

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
color no 1101, off-white
¾ sleeves: 650-700-750-850-900-1000 g
Long sleeves: 850-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) and pointed needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] - or size needed to obtain 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) and pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] – for garter st and moss st.

DROPS Mother-of-Pearl buttons without hole, no 524: 5 pcs

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (135)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Measurement tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Moss st: First row: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*. Second row: K over P, P over K. Repeat second row.

Pleats: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 7½”, 9”, 11”, 12½” and 14½”
Size M: 8”, 9½”, 11.4”, 13” and 15”.
Size L: 8.2”, 9.7”, 11.7”, 13.4” and 15.2”.
Size XL: 8.2”, 10.2”, 12.2”, 14.2” and 15.7”.
Size XXL: 8.2”, 10.2”, 12.2”, 14.2” and 16.1”
Size XXXL: 8.2”, 10.6”, 12½”, 14½” and 16½”.

Decreasing tip, applies to neckline: Make all dec from RS inside 7 front band sts.
Dec as follows after 7 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 7 sts: K2 tog.
______________________________

Front and back piece:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 194-230-242-278-322-342 sts (includes 7 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7].
Work 2 rows stockinette st, 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st with 7 front band sts each side in garter st until finished measurements. Remember the knitting gauge!
When piece measures 7½”-8”-8.2”- 8.2”- 8.2”-8.7” – see Measurement tip – make buttonholes on right front piece – see above.
When piece measures 11” for all sizes work next row as follows from RS: K 14 sts, M.2 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times (= 33-44-44-55-66-66 sts which are dec to 18-24-24-30-36-36 sts), K 12-8-14-10-10-20 sts, M.1 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times, K 10 sts, M.2 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times, K 12-8-14-10-10-20 sts, M.1 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times and finish with K 14 sts = 134-150-162-178-202-222 sts.
Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 after 38-42-45-49-55-60 sts and 1 after 96-108-117-129-147-162 sts (back piece = 58-66-72-80-92-102 sts).
Change to needle size 4 mm [US 6], work 10 rows garter st, then 2 rows stockinette st with front bands in garter st as before, and now continue in moss st – see above.
When piece measures 12½” for all sizes inc 1 st on each side of both markers on every 3/8”-3/8”-½”-½”-½”-3/4” a total of 7 times. At the same time when piece measures 15”-15.2”-15.7”-16.1”-16½”-17” dec to shape the neckline – see Decreasing tip: dec 1 st on neck line on every ½” a total of 19-19-20-21-21-22 times.
At the same time when piece measures 16½”-17”-17.2”-17.7”-18”-18½” bind off 3 sts on each side of both markers for armholes and now complete front and back pieces separately.

Back piece: = 66-74-80-88-100-110 sts.
Dec to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-5-6 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-4-6 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 sts. When piece measures 22½”-23.2”-24”-24.7”-25½”-26.4” work 2 rows garter st on the middle 34-34-36-38-38-40 sts with remaining sts as before. Now bind off the middle 18-18-20-22-22-24 sts for neck and continue with 8 garter sts towards neckline. Dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 22-23-23-23-24-24 sts left on each shoulder. Work moss st with 7 garter sts towards neckline and bind off when piece measures 23.6”-24.4”-25.2”-26”-26.7”-27½”.

Left front piece: Continue dec for neckline and dec to shape the armhole as described for back piece. After all dec are complete there are 22-23-23-23-24-24 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 23.6”-24.4”-25.2”-26”-26.7”-27½”.

Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes! See above.

¾ sleeve: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles. Cast on 50-52-54-56-60-62 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st. At the same time when piece measures 2”-2”-2”-2.4”-2.4”-2.75” inc 1 st each side on every 0.75”-0.6”-0.6”-0.4”-0.4”-0.2” a total of 7-7-8-9-9-11 times = 64-66-70-74-78-84 sts. When piece measures 8”-7”-7”-7”-6.7”-6.2” (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) dec to shape the sleeve cap – see below.

Long sleeves: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles. Cast on 52-54-56-60-62-64 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st. At the same time when piece measures 4” for all sizes inc 1 st each side on every 2.7”-2.6”-2.2”-2.2”-1.7”-1.3” a total of 6-6-7-7-8-10 times = 64-66-70-74-78-84 sts. When piece measures 19”-18”-18”-18”-17.7”-17.2” (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) dec to shape the sleeve cap – see below.

Sleeve cap: Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 1 st each side until piece measures approx 10.2”-10.2”-10.6”-10.6”-11”-11” for ¾ sleeve and 21.2”-21.6”-21.6”-21.6”-22”-22” for long sleeve. Now K tog all sts 2 by 2 and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 10.6”-10.6”-11”-11”-11.4”-11.4” for ¾ sleeve, and 21.6”-22”-22”-22”-22½”-22½” for long sleeve.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seam. Sew sleeve seam inside 1 edge st and set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= put 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K tog first st from cable needle with first st from needle a total of 5 times, K1.
= K1, put 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K tog first st from cable needle with first st from needle a total of 5 times.

Comments (135)

Leave your comment!

Marge Klein 16.10.2018 - 21:28:

I am having trouble with directions for the front sections. Is there more detail anywhere as to when to make what decreases for the armholes and the neckline?

Corinne 06.08.2018 - 16:59:

Merci infiniment pour votre aide précieuse...à bientôt ....

Corinne 06.08.2018 - 10:07:

Donc si je comprends bien sur un rang d'augmentation terminé j'ai 4 mailles en plus et non pas deux comme je le pensais?

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 13:53:

Bonjour Corinne, tout à fait, vous avez 4 m en plus: 1 m pour chaque devant (avant le marqueur du devant droit et après le marqueur du devant gauche) et 2 m en plus pour le dos (1 m en plus au début, après le marqueur et 1 m en plus à la fin, avant le marqueur). Bon tricot!

Corinne 06.08.2018 - 08:43:

Bonjour, je suis totalement bloquée au niveau du point de riz. Comment réaliser des augmentations sans casser le point de riz? est ce que je dois bien faire mes augmentations juste avant les marqueurs ou je peux les faire en bout de rang d'un coté et juste avant le point mousse de l'autre? Merci d'avance pour votre aide

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 09:42:

Bonjour Corinne, les augmentations doivent bien se faire à chacun des marqueurs, le temps de 2 rangs d'augmentations et le point de riz tombera de nouveau juste au niveau des marqueurs, mais veillez à bien augmenter 1 m de chaque côté de chacun des 2 marqueurs pour augmenter sur les côtés (sous les bras). Bon tricot!

Corinne 14.06.2018 - 13:29:

Bonjour, J'aimerais beaucoup faire ce modèle en taille S et en qualité Bomull-Lin, pouvez vous m'indiquer le nombre de pelote que je dois prévoir SVP. D'avance merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 14.06.2018 kl. 16:40:

Bonjour Corinne, vous trouverez ici toutes les informations nécessaires sur les alternatives et comment calculer la nouvelle quantité. Bon tricot!

Adele 17.02.2018 - 19:04:

Bonjour, J'aimerais savoir quel fil utiliser et quelle quantité pour faire ce gilet en taille S, à manches longues? De préférence en coton. Merci beaucoup!

DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Adele, vous pouvez utiliser un autre fil du groupe C -comme Silke Alpaca - (retrouvez toutes les infos sur cette laine ici) ou bien également 2 fils du groupe A. Cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

Pamela 05.10.2016 - 12:07:

Thank you very much. 👍

Pamela 04.10.2016 - 15:24:

My apologies if this question has already been asked... I am up to the stage where I need to decline to start the neckline shaping. It says to decrease at beginning of row from neck every cm a total of 19 times. 4 rows = 1cm for me so this means I would be always declining on one side of the neck only. Should I be declining one stitch at beginning AND end of the row every cm? Kind regards, Pam

DROPS Design 04.10.2016 kl. 15:52:

Dear Pamela, as long as you are still working both front pieces and back piece tog (before dividing for armholes), you will have to dec for neckline at the beg of row from RS (= after the 7 band sts on right front piece) + at the end of row from RS (= before the 7 band sts on left front piece). See also "Increase tip". Happy knitting!

Sarah-Anne 06.08.2016 - 12:40:

An amendment needs to be made to the buttonhole directions. The directions specify: "Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row." Binding off 4 stitches is far more than you would normally use for a buttonhole, 2 or 3 stitches is normally enough. Also if you want the front band to still have 7 stitches, however many you bind off you need to add on again on the return row.

DROPS Design 08.08.2016 kl. 10:26:

Dear Sarah-Anne, you have to cast off only 1 st for the buttonhole: ie the 4th st from mid front (not 4 sts), then cast on 1 new st on next row over the cast off st. Happy knitting!

Ruth Epperson 19.10.2014 - 18:29:

I have knitted the pleats 5 times and they don't come out right! I have marked each stitch on a piece of paper and I end up with zero stitches after making last pleat. What is wrong with this pattern?

DROPS Design 20.10.2014 kl. 10:28:

Dear Mrs Epperson, Each pleat (M1 & M2) is worked above 11 sts, after the pleat these 11 sts become 6 sts. When you work 5 times the pleat (ie 5 x 11 sts) you work above a total of 55 sts and get then 30 sts after 5 pleats are done. Happy knitting!

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