DROPS / 105 / 1

DROPS 105-1 by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with pleats and ¾-sleeves or long sleeves in “Silke-Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL.

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 33"-37"-40"–43.4"-48.7"-53½"
Hem: 41"-48.7"-52"–59.7"-70"- 74.7"
Full length: 23.6"-24.4"-25.2"-26"-26.7"-27½"

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
color no 1101, off-white
¾ sleeves: 650-700-750-850-900-1000 g
Long sleeves: 850-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) and pointed needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] - or size needed to obtain 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) and pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] – for garter st and moss st.

DROPS Mother-of-Pearl buttons without hole, no 524: 5 pcs

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Measurement tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Moss st: First row: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*. Second row: K over P, P over K. Repeat second row.

Pleats: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 7½”, 9”, 11”, 12½” and 14½”
Size M: 8”, 9½”, 11.4”, 13” and 15”.
Size L: 8.2”, 9.7”, 11.7”, 13.4” and 15.2”.
Size XL: 8.2”, 10.2”, 12.2”, 14.2” and 15.7”.
Size XXL: 8.2”, 10.2”, 12.2”, 14.2” and 16.1”
Size XXXL: 8.2”, 10.6”, 12½”, 14½” and 16½”.

Decreasing tip, applies to neckline: Make all dec from RS inside 7 front band sts.
Dec as follows after 7 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 7 sts: K2 tog.
______________________________

Front and back piece:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 194-230-242-278-322-342 sts (includes 7 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7].
Work 2 rows stockinette st, 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st with 7 front band sts each side in garter st until finished measurements. Remember the knitting gauge!
When piece measures 7½”-8”-8.2”- 8.2”- 8.2”-8.7” – see Measurement tip – make buttonholes on right front piece – see above.
When piece measures 11” for all sizes work next row as follows from RS: K 14 sts, M.2 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times (= 33-44-44-55-66-66 sts which are dec to 18-24-24-30-36-36 sts), K 12-8-14-10-10-20 sts, M.1 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times, K 10 sts, M.2 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times, K 12-8-14-10-10-20 sts, M.1 a total of 3-4-4-5-6-6 times and finish with K 14 sts = 134-150-162-178-202-222 sts.
Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 after 38-42-45-49-55-60 sts and 1 after 96-108-117-129-147-162 sts (back piece = 58-66-72-80-92-102 sts).
Change to needle size 4 mm [US 6], work 10 rows garter st, then 2 rows stockinette st with front bands in garter st as before, and now continue in moss st – see above.
When piece measures 12½” for all sizes inc 1 st on each side of both markers on every 3/8”-3/8”-½”-½”-½”-3/4” a total of 7 times. At the same time when piece measures 15”-15.2”-15.7”-16.1”-16½”-17” dec to shape the neckline – see Decreasing tip: dec 1 st on neck line on every ½” a total of 19-19-20-21-21-22 times.
At the same time when piece measures 16½”-17”-17.2”-17.7”-18”-18½” bind off 3 sts on each side of both markers for armholes and now complete front and back pieces separately.

Back piece: = 66-74-80-88-100-110 sts.
Dec to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-5-6 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-4-6 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 sts. When piece measures 22½”-23.2”-24”-24.7”-25½”-26.4” work 2 rows garter st on the middle 34-34-36-38-38-40 sts with remaining sts as before. Now bind off the middle 18-18-20-22-22-24 sts for neck and continue with 8 garter sts towards neckline. Dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 22-23-23-23-24-24 sts left on each shoulder. Work moss st with 7 garter sts towards neckline and bind off when piece measures 23.6”-24.4”-25.2”-26”-26.7”-27½”.

Left front piece: Continue dec for neckline and dec to shape the armhole as described for back piece. After all dec are complete there are 22-23-23-23-24-24 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 23.6”-24.4”-25.2”-26”-26.7”-27½”.

Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes! See above.

¾ sleeve: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles. Cast on 50-52-54-56-60-62 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st. At the same time when piece measures 2”-2”-2”-2.4”-2.4”-2.75” inc 1 st each side on every 0.75”-0.6”-0.6”-0.4”-0.4”-0.2” a total of 7-7-8-9-9-11 times = 64-66-70-74-78-84 sts. When piece measures 8”-7”-7”-7”-6.7”-6.2” (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) dec to shape the sleeve cap – see below.

Long sleeves: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles. Cast on 52-54-56-60-62-64 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st. At the same time when piece measures 4” for all sizes inc 1 st each side on every 2.7”-2.6”-2.2”-2.2”-1.7”-1.3” a total of 6-6-7-7-8-10 times = 64-66-70-74-78-84 sts. When piece measures 19”-18”-18”-18”-17.7”-17.2” (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) dec to shape the sleeve cap – see below.

Sleeve cap: Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 1 st each side until piece measures approx 10.2”-10.2”-10.6”-10.6”-11”-11” for ¾ sleeve and 21.2”-21.6”-21.6”-21.6”-22”-22” for long sleeve. Now K tog all sts 2 by 2 and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 10.6”-10.6”-11”-11”-11.4”-11.4” for ¾ sleeve, and 21.6”-22”-22”-22”-22½”-22½” for long sleeve.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seam. Sew sleeve seam inside 1 edge st and set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= put 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K tog first st from cable needle with first st from needle a total of 5 times, K1.
= K1, put 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K tog first st from cable needle with first st from needle a total of 5 times.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 105-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (138)

Marianne Hastrup 28.09.2019 - 11:57:

Hej - når man skal omregne det udgåede DROPS Silke Alpaca, slal man vide, hvor mange tråde det er tvundet af. Hvor står den oplysning? K.h. Marianne Hastrup

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 15:28:

Hej Marianne, nej det behøver du ikke, denne jakke er strikket i en tråd DROPS Silke Alpaca. Skriv navnet på garnet, hvor mange gram du behøver i din størrelse, 1 tråd, så får du en masse garnalternativer op. God fornøjelse!

Coco 13.06.2019 - 17:29:

Merci beaucoup, je vais réessayer ;o))

Coco 13.06.2019 - 16:08:

Bonjour, je pense avoir bien suivi vos indications mais je viens de terminer une manche et elle est beaucoup trop étroite en haut pour pouvoir être cousue aux emmanchures....pourriez vous me donner, même approximativement le nombre de mailles restantes après les diminutions du haut de la manche, je tricote une taille S et j'ai choisi les manches 3/4...d'avance merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 16:34:

Bonjour Coco, le nombre de mailles restant va dépendre de votre tension en hauteur, vous devez rabattre de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs: 1 x 3 m puis 1 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 26 cm de hauteur totale, tricotez ensuite toutes les mailles ensemble 2 par 2 à l'endroit pour l'effet bouffant et rabattez au rang suivant. Les 64 m de la manche doivent vous donner environ 18,8 cm quand elles sont en place (= manche pliée comme sur le schéma). Si votre tension est juste, vous devriez avoir les bonnes mesures, épinglez la manche si besoin tout autour de l'emmanchure pour bien la mettre en place avant de la coudre. Bon tricot!

Marge Klein 16.10.2018 - 21:28:

I am having trouble with directions for the front sections. Is there more detail anywhere as to when to make what decreases for the armholes and the neckline?

Corinne 06.08.2018 - 16:59:

Merci infiniment pour votre aide précieuse...à bientôt ....

Corinne 06.08.2018 - 10:07:

Donc si je comprends bien sur un rang d'augmentation terminé j'ai 4 mailles en plus et non pas deux comme je le pensais?

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 13:53:

Bonjour Corinne, tout à fait, vous avez 4 m en plus: 1 m pour chaque devant (avant le marqueur du devant droit et après le marqueur du devant gauche) et 2 m en plus pour le dos (1 m en plus au début, après le marqueur et 1 m en plus à la fin, avant le marqueur). Bon tricot!

Corinne 06.08.2018 - 08:43:

Bonjour, je suis totalement bloquée au niveau du point de riz. Comment réaliser des augmentations sans casser le point de riz? est ce que je dois bien faire mes augmentations juste avant les marqueurs ou je peux les faire en bout de rang d'un coté et juste avant le point mousse de l'autre? Merci d'avance pour votre aide

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 09:42:

Bonjour Corinne, les augmentations doivent bien se faire à chacun des marqueurs, le temps de 2 rangs d'augmentations et le point de riz tombera de nouveau juste au niveau des marqueurs, mais veillez à bien augmenter 1 m de chaque côté de chacun des 2 marqueurs pour augmenter sur les côtés (sous les bras). Bon tricot!

Corinne 14.06.2018 - 13:29:

Bonjour, J'aimerais beaucoup faire ce modèle en taille S et en qualité Bomull-Lin, pouvez vous m'indiquer le nombre de pelote que je dois prévoir SVP. D'avance merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 14.06.2018 kl. 16:40:

Bonjour Corinne, vous trouverez ici toutes les informations nécessaires sur les alternatives et comment calculer la nouvelle quantité. Bon tricot!

Adele 17.02.2018 - 19:04:

Bonjour, J'aimerais savoir quel fil utiliser et quelle quantité pour faire ce gilet en taille S, à manches longues? De préférence en coton. Merci beaucoup!

DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Adele, vous pouvez utiliser un autre fil du groupe C -comme Silke Alpaca - (retrouvez toutes les infos sur cette laine ici) ou bien également 2 fils du groupe A. Cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

Pamela 05.10.2016 - 12:07:

Thank you very much. 👍

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