DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
3.00 $ /50g |
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DROPS Fabel 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
3.25 $ /50g |
Order | |
DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
3.50 $ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 3.00 $ /50g Order |
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DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 3.25 $ /50g Order |
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DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 3.50 $ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Summer Fruits |
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DROPS jacket with V-neck and Rib in Fabel. Size S to XXXL
DROPS 103-7 |
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Knitting gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows knitted in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]. Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows. Back piece: Remember the knitting gauge! Knit back and forth on row. Cast on 131-143-155-167-185-203 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel. P the first row from the WS. Knit the next row from the RS as follows: 1 edge st *K3, P3* repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and 1 edge st. Continue the Rib until it measures 4 cm [1½"]. Change to needles size 3.5 mm [US 4]. Continue with 2 rows of garter sts – see explanation above – at the same time on the last row dec 28-31-33-34-38-42 sts evenly = 103-112-122-133-147-161 sts. Continue in stockinette sts until finish. At the same time when the piece measures 9 cm [3½"] bind off 1 st each side on every other cm [3/4"] a total of 4-4-5-5-5-6 times = 95-104-112-123-137-149 sts. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm [9½"-9 ¾"-10 ¼"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜"] inc 1 st each side on every 3 cm [1⅛"] a total of 4-4-5-5-5-6 times = 103-112-122-133-147-161 sts. When the piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm [16⅛"-16½"-17"-17 ¼"-17 ¾"-18"] bind off for armholes each side on every other row as follows: 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 times, 3 sts 1-1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-3-5-7-8 times and 1 st 2-3-3-3-4-6 times = 85-88-90-93-97-97 sts. When the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm [22 ¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25 ¼"-26"-26 ¾"] bind off the mid 31-32-32-33-35-35 sts for the neck. Continue to bind off 1 st on the next row towards the neck = 26-27-28-29-30-30 sts left for each shoulder. Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23⅝"-24⅜"-25 ¼"-26"-26 ¾"-27½"]. Left front piece: Knit back and forth on row. Cast on 68-74-80-86-92-104 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel. P the first row from the WS. Continue to knit the next row from the RS as follows: 1 edge st * P3, K3* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Continue the Rib until it measures 4 cm [1½"]. Change to needles size 3.5 mm [US 4] and knit 2 rows of garter sts at the same time on the last row dec. 16-18-19-19-19-23 sts evenly = 52-56-61-67-73-81 sts. Continue to knit the garment in stockinette sts until finish. At the same time inc and bind off at the side as done for the back. When the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm [15 ¼"-15 ¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17 ¼"] bind off 1 st for the V-neck at the mid front on every cm [3/8"] a total of 17-17-17-18-18-19 times. At the same time when the piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm [16⅛"-16½"-17"-17 ¼"-17 ¾"-18"] bind off for armholes at the side as done for the back = 26-27-28-29-30-30 sts left for shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23⅝"-24⅜"-25 ¼"-26"-26 ¾"-27½"]. Right front piece: Knit as left front piece but reverse. Sleeve: Knit the sleeve back and forth on row. Cast on 68-68-74-74-80-80 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needles size 3 mm [US 2or3]. P the first row from the WS. Continue in Rib as follows: 1 edge st * K3, P3* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Knit until the Rib measures 9 cm [3½"]. Change to needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] and knit 2 rows of garter sts at the same time on the last row dec 13-11-15-13-14-13 sts evenly = 55-57-59-61-66-67 sts. Continue to knit the sleeve in stockinette sts until finish. At the same time when the piece measures 12-12-14-15-15-18 cm [4 ¾"-4 ¾"-5½"-5"-5"-7"] inc 1 sts each side on every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1 cm [1⅛"-⅞"-¾"-½-½"-⅜"] a total off 12-14-16-18-18-20 times = 79-85-91-97-102-107 sts. When the piece measures 48-47-46-46-44-42 cm [19"-18½"-18"-18"-17 ¼"-16½"] bind off 3 sts each side for the sleeve cap. Continue to bind off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-4-4 times, 1 st 3-3-5-6-9-14 times and then 2 sts each side until the piece measures 55-55-55-56-56-57 cm [21⅝"-21⅝"-21⅝"-22"-22"-22½"], then 3 sts each side 1 times. Bind off, the piece measures approx. 56-56-56-57-57-58 cm [22"-22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22 ¾"]. Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams and sew in the sleeves. Sew the sleeve and the side seams inside the edge st. Front band and neck edge: Knit back and forth on circular needle. Pick up 418-430-442-454-466-478 sts inside 1 edge st on circular needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] m with Fabel – knit up along the right front piece, around the neck and down along the left front piece. Knit 3 rows of garter sts at the same time on the last row inc. 35 sts evenly = 453-465-477-489-501-513 st (the number of sts should be divisible with 6+3). Continue to knit the next row from the RS as follows: 3 garter sts * K3, P3* repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and 3 garter sts. When the Rib measures 1½ cm [½"] bind off for 6-6-7-7-8-8 button holes evenly distributed on the right front band. 1 button hole = bind off 2 sts, on the returning row cast on 2 new sts at the same place. The bottom button hole should be approx 4-5 cm [1½"-2"] from the bottom edge and the top button hole should be 1 cm [½"] below the first dec. For the V-neck. When the front band measures approx. 3 cm [1⅛"] bind off with K over K and P over P. Sew in the buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11571 patterns - 11562 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (18)
Huguette wrote:
Bonjour je veux tricoter avec 2 fils ensemble fabel+ kid-silk le modèle en taille large soit 400gr. Je veux savoir combien de balles de kid-silk 25gr ai-je de besoin pour la taille large,je tricote avec la même tension que le modèle merci
17.07.2024 - 20:20Huguette wrote:
Modèle large 400gr fabel .mon échantillon est identique au modèle présenté je veux que vous me calculer le nombre de gr en kid-silk car je veux tricoter fabel et kid-silk ensemble je ne comprends pas bien votre convertisseur merci
11.07.2024 - 19:13DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Huguette, ce modèle se tricote avec 1 seul fil Fabel avec une tension de 23 m x 30 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm , si vous tricotez avec 1 fil Fabel + 1 fil Kid-Silk, votre tension sera différente, vous devrez ainsi plutôt vous orienter vers un modèle du groupe d'échantillon 16-17 mailles - cf ici par exemple, et ainsi vous pouvez utiliser le convertisseur ou cette leçon. Bon tricot!
29.07.2024 - 09:19Huguette Meunier wrote:
Bonjour, je fais le modèle large 400 gr est-ce que je peux tricoter avec le fil kid-silk et combien de pelotes de 25gr ai-je de besoin? La maille lis est-elle compris dans les mailles de montage du tricot ou je fais les mailles en surplus merci beaucoup
29.06.2024 - 22:25DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Meunier, vous pouvez tout à fait tricoter avec 1 fil Kid-Silk au lieu d'1 fil Fabel (la texture sera juste différente car les 2 laines sont différentes), utilisez le convertisseur pour calculer la nouvelle quantité correspondante, pensez juste bien à vérifier votre tension. Les mailles lisières sont comprises et ne sont pas à monter en plus. Bon tricot!
01.07.2024 - 08:51Lola Pugh wrote:
I\'d love to find a simple sweater pattern using fabel only with a slightly funnel neck or small neckline, not wide. Do you have pattern like this please?\r\nThanks
13.04.2022 - 00:05Judy Caudill wrote:
Has this yarn been discontinued? I don't see it listed in the fabel yarn group.
20.03.2022 - 04:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Caudill, correct this colour has been now discontinued. See all available colours here. Happy knitting!
21.03.2022 - 09:47Lena Schneider wrote:
Wie werden 18o Maschen auf die Blende verteilt ? (Summer fruits)
25.05.2016 - 22:01DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Lena, ich finde die Stelle mit den 180 M gerade nicht, können Sie mir weiterhelfen? Die 418-430-442-454-466-478 M werden gelich mässig verteilt über beide Blenden und den Halsausschnitt aufgenommen.
27.05.2016 - 08:10Marga Fabrie wrote:
Eigenlijk snap ik niet hoe ik met 1 rondbreipen de bies van hals en voorkant kan breien. Met een rondbreipen brei je toch meestal iets zonder naad, bijv. een muts? Als ik alle steken op de rondbreipen heb staan dan heb ik toch nog een pen nodig om te breien. Is er misschien een instructiefilmpje? Heb op you tube gezocht, vond daar alleen mutsen, sokken e.d.
20.12.2015 - 21:54DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Marga. Je kan ook heen en weer breien op de rondbreinaald. Heel handig als je veel st hebt zoals voor deze bies. Kijk ook hier op ons filmpje:
21.12.2015 - 13:18Petra Holten wrote:
Achterpand, De zin Kant tegelijkertijd vanaf een hoogte van 9 st 4x 1st af aan weerskanten op elke 2e cm.Wat bedoelen ze met een hoogte vanaf 9 st????
29.09.2015 - 08:14DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Petra. Oeps, dat is een klein typefout. Dat moet uiteraard 9 cm zijn. Het is nu aangepast :-)
30.09.2015 - 16:28Marga Fabrie wrote:
Heb ik voor dit patroon 1 of 2 rondbreinaalden nodig en van welke lengte?
08.02.2015 - 16:05DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Marga. Er staat maar 1 rondbreinaald in het patroon: DROPS Rondbreinaald 3 mm. Het is voor de boordsteek voorbies/halsrand. Vanwege het aantal st zou ik een 80 cm aanraden.
09.02.2015 - 14:12Maaike Boelhouwer-Durksz wrote:
Bij de voorbies staat bij de 2e alinea 'eindig met 3r en 3 ribbelsteek. ' Dat is dan toch 6r? En op de weg terug begin je dan toch ook met 6r, ook al staat er 3r en 3 ribbelsteek? Of mis ik iets?
15.12.2014 - 12:53DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Maaike. Ja, wel 6 r op de goede kant, maar brei je de verkeerde kant, dan is het 3 r (ribbelst) en 3 av (de 3 r worden av op de verkeerde kant)
15.12.2014 - 15:17