SNOW
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Measurement around chest: 84-92-102-112-124-132 cm
[33”- 36¼”- 40”- 44”¬ – 48¾”- 52”]
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm
[21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g, clr. no. 46, grey.
Long sleeves:
750-800-900-950-1050-1150 g, clr. no. 46, grey.

Or use:
Materials: DROPS Andes from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
700-800-900-900-1000-1100 g, clr. no. 9015, grey.
Long sleeves:
800-900-1000-1000-1100-1200 g, clr. no. 9015, grey.

DROPS pointed needles size 8 mm [US 11] – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

DROPS Buffalo horn button no. 536: 3 pcs.
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NEPAL
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Measurement around chest: 84-92-102-112-124-132 cm
[33”- 36¼”- 40”- 44”¬ – 48¾”- 52”]
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm
[21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Materials:DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
600-650-750-800-900-1000 g, color 517, medium gray
Long sleeves:
700-750-800-900-1000-1050 g, color 517, medium gray.

DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

DROPS Buffalo-horn buttons no. 536: 3 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
General comment: The double seed sts at the front will pull a little when knitting, but will stretch out when the garment is finish.

Knitting gauge: 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette = 10 x 10 cm [4” x 4”].

Double seed sts:
1st row: * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over P and K over K.
3rd row: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*
4th row: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.

Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.

Button holes: Bind off for button holes on the right front piece.
1 button hole = bind off the 4th st from the front edge and on the returning row cast on a new st over the bound off st.
Bind off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 33, 40 and 47 cm [13”- 15¾”- 18½”].
Size M: 35, 42 and 49 cm [13¾”- 16½”- 19¼”].
Size L: 37, 44 and 51 cm [14½”- 17¼”- 20”].
Size XL: 38, 45 and 52 cm [15”- 17¾”- 20½”].
Size XXL: 38, 46 and 54 cm [15”- 18”- 21¼”].
Size XXXL: 38, 47 and 56 cm [15”- 18½”- 22”].
____________________________________________________


Back piece: Knit back and forth on needles!
Cast on 64-68-72-80-84-88 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS)– see explanation for rib above.
Continue in stockinette. Remember to check your gauge!
When the piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off 1 st each side (bind off in beg of following 2 rows), repeat on every 3½-3½-4½-4-5-5 cm [1¼”- 1¼”- 1¾”- 1½”- 2” - 2”] a total of 8-8-7-8-7-7 times = 48-52-58-64-70-74 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for armholes in the beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-3-4 times = 40-42-42-44-46-48 sts left.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm [20”- 21”- 21 5/8”- 22½” - 23¼”- 24”] bind off the mid 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for the neck and work each shoulder separate.
On the next row starting at neck bind off 1 more st = 13-14-14-14-15-16 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Left front piece: Cast on 39-41-43-49-51-53 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 P sts at the side (seen from the RS).
Continue in stockinette and 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts towards front edge in Double Seed st – see explanation above!
When piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off at the side as done for the back piece = 31-33-36-41-44-46 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for the armhole at the side as done for the back piece = 27-28-28-31-32-33 sts.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm [19¼”- 20”¬ 21”- 21¼”- 22”- 22¾”] bind off 10 sts in the beg of next row starting from front edge (for neck). Insert 1 marker after the bound off sts.
Then bind off for the neck in beg of every row starting from front edge: 2 sts 2-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 0-0-0-1-1-1 time = 13-14-14-14-15-16 sts left for the shoulder.
Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. In addition remember to bind off for the buttonholes at the front edge – see explanation above.

Sleeve: The numbers before ( ) apply for the ¾-long sleeves and the numbers in the ( ) applies for the long sleeves.
Cast on 34-34-34-38-38-38 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow.
Knit in double seed st – see explanation above – with 1 edge st in garter each side.
When the piece measures 10 cm [4”] continue in stockinette.
At the same time when the piece measures 11 (25) cm [4 3/8” (9¾”)] inc 1 st each side, repeat inc on every 9-6-4½-6-4-2½ cm [3½”- 2 3/8”- 1¾”- 2 3/8”- 1½”- 1”] a total of 3-4-5-4-5-7 times = 40-42-44-46-48-52 sts.
When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-28 (49-48-47-46-44-43) cm
[13 3/8”- 13”- 12½”- 12¼”- 11 3/8”- 11” (19¼”- 19”- 18½”- 18”- 17¼”- 4 3/8”)] bind off for the sleeve cap in beginning of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 sts 2-3-4-4-6-7 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 40 (55) cm [15¾” (21 5/8”)], then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and then bind off remaining sts.
The piece measures approx. 42 (57) cm [16½” (22½”)].

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams

Collar: Pick up approx. 24 to 28 sts between the markers at the neck line (i.e do not pick up sts in the outer most 10 sts each side toward the front edges). Knit 2 rows of garter sts – on the last row inc 10 sts evenly distributed = 34-38 sts.
Continue in Double Seed st with 1 garter st each side - at the same time inc 2 sts each side as follows: knit 2 sts in the first st, then make a yo (on return row work yo twisted to avoid a hole, i.e work yo in the back loop)– incorporate new sts into seed pattern as going along. Inc 2 sts this way at the beg of every row a total of 6 times each side = 24 extra sts = a total of 58-62 sts.
Bind off when the collar measures 12 cm [4¾”] mid back.
Sew the collar tight to the front pieces each side in the outer part of the edge, i.e. new sts are sewn to the 10 bind off sts each side. Sew the sleeve and the side seams inside 1 edge st.
Sew on the buttons.
_____________________________________________________________


NEPAL

Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette = 10 x 10 cm [4” x 4”]

Double Seed st:
1st row: * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over P and K over K.
3rd row: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*
4th row: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.

Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.

Button holes: Bind off for button holes at the right front piece.
1 button hole = bind off the 5th and 6th st from the edge. On the returning row cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts.
Bind off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 33, 40 and 47 cm [13”- 15¾”- 18½”].
Size M: 35, 42 and 49 cm [13¾”- 16½”- 19¼”].
Size L: 37, 44 and 51 cm [14½”- 17¼”- 20”].
Size XL: 38, 45 and 52 cm [15”- 17¾”- 20½”].
Size XXL: 38, 46 and 54 cm [15”- 18”- 21¼”].
Size XXXL: 38, 47 and 56 cm [15”- 18½”- 22”].
____________________________________________


Back piece: Knit back and forth on needles!
Cast on 96-104-112-124-132-136 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Nepal.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS)– see explanation above. Continue in stockinette. Remember to check your gauge!
When the piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off 1 st each side (bind off in beg of following 2 rows), repeat on every 2½-2½-2½-2½-2½-3 cm [7/8”- 7/8”- 7/8”- 7/8”- 7/8” - 1 1/8”] a total of 11-12-12-13-12-11 times = 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for armholes in beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 3-3-4-3-4-4 times = 62-64-66-68-72-74 sts left.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm [20”- 21”- 21 5/8”- 22½”- 23¼”- 24”] bind off the mid 20-20-20-24-24-24 sts for the neck and work each shoulder seperate.
On the next row from neck bind off 1 more st = 20-21-22-21-23-24 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Left front piece: Cast on 59-63-67-75-79-81 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Nepal.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 P sts at the side (seen from the RS).
Continue in stockinette and 22-22-22-26-26-26 sts toward front in Double Seed st – see explanation above!
When the piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off at the side as done for the back piece = 48-51-55-62-67-70 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for the armhole at the side as done for the back piece = 42-43-44-47-49-50 sts.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm [19¼”- 20”¬ 21”- 21¼”- 22”- 22¾”] bind off 16 sts in the beg of next row starting from front edge (for neck). Insert 1 marker after the bound off sts. Then bind off for the neck in beg of every row starting from front edge: 2 sts 2-2-2-4-4-4 times and 1 st 2 times = 20-21-22-21-23-24 sts left for the shoulder.
Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. In addition remember to bind off for the buttonholes at the front edge – see explanation above.

Sleeve: The numbers before ( ) apply for the ¾-long sleeves and the numbers in the ( ) applies for the long sleeves.
Cast on 50-50-54-54-58-58 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Nepal.
Knit in Double Seed st– se explanation above – with 1 edge st each side.
When the piece measures 10 cm [4”] continue in stockinette.
At the same time when the piece measures 11 (25) cm [4 3/8” (9¾”)] inc 1 st each side, repeat inc on every 5-3-3-2-2-1½ cm [2”- 1 1/8”- 1 1/8”- ¾”- ¾”- ¼”] a total off 5-7-7-9-9-11 times = 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts.
When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-28 (49-48-47-46-44-43) cm
[13 3/8”- 13”- 12½”- 12¼”- 11 3/8”- 11” (19¼”- 19”- 18½”- 18”- 17¼”- 4 3/8”)] bind off for the sleeve cap in beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 sts 1-2-3-4-6-7 times.
Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 41 (56) cm [15¾” (21 5/8”)], then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and then bind off remaining sts.
The piece measures approx. 42 (57) cm [16½” (22½”)].

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams

Collar: Pick up approx. 36 to 42 sts between the markers at the neck line (i.e do not pick up sts in the outer most 16 sts each side toward the front edges). Knit 2 rows of garter sts – on the last row inc 12 sts evenly distributed = 48-54 sts.
Continue in Double Seed st with 1 garter st each side - at the same time inc 2 sts each side as follows: knit 2 sts in the first st, then make a yo (on return row work yo twisted to avoid a hole, i.e work yo in the back loop)– incorporate new sts into seed pattern as going along. Inc 2 sts this way at the beg of every row a total of 9 times each side = 36 extra sts = a total of 84-90 sts.
Bind off when the collar measures 12 cm [4¾”] mid back.
Sew the collar tight to the front pieces each side in the outer part of the edge, i.e. new sts are sewn to the 16 bound off sts each side. Sew the sleeve and the side seams inside 1 edge st.
Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.10.2007
General comment:
The double moss sts at the front will pull a little when knitting, but will stretch out when the garment is finish.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 103-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
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Comments / Questions (262)

country flag Sharon wrote:

Which row do i start on for the left front so the pattern matches? Reversing the pattern so that the stockinett stitches faces each other is ok. But how do I knit this so pattern is symmetrical.

20.11.2021 - 02:01:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, just work in pattern as for first piece, ie follow "double seed stitch" the same way (P2, K2 on first row from RS). Happy knitting!

22.11.2021 kl. 07:43:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi, Sharon again making size 52 Silver Haze with snow. Made the sleeve twice and had to redo. I would like a sleeve a longer than the short version. Following the instruction for the short version is too small in width. The instruction for the long sleeves is perfect with but way too long. Suggestion is appreciate. Sharon

18.11.2021 - 20:01:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, please contact your DROPS store or any knitting forum for any individual assistance adjusting the pattern as you would like it to be. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

19.11.2021 kl. 07:16:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi. Thanks so much. Everything worked out from the explanation i received. Sharon

18.11.2021 - 16:34:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Is there a problem withthe snow version size 52. Largest size. Am here: when the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for armholes in the beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-3-4 times = 40-42-42-44-46-48 sts left. won’t be left with 48 stitches after the decreases. Shouldn’t the stitches after decrease be 58. First Dec. instructions says to decrease 3 st. 1 time. There is 2 armholes.

17.11.2021 - 21:23:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, in Snow largest size you have 74 sts, then cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 row (3 sts on each side) = 68 sts, then cast off 2 sts at the beg of next 6 rows (3 times 2 sts on each side) = 68-12=56 sts; then cast off 1 stitch at the beg of next 8 rows (4 times 1 st on each side) = 56-8=48 sts. Can this help?

18.11.2021 kl. 08:38:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi, the instructions says to increase 1 stitch at the side for the front and there after every x amount of rows. Making largest side. how many rows equals 3 cm? I worked it out and I got 7 rows. Could be wrong. Is the hem a slanted shape? Is there a gauge for the seed stitch? Am confused.

09.11.2021 - 15:48:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, the number of rows depend on your exact gauge (which might be different for every individual. The pattern itself works with 15 rows = 10 cm. . Please make a gauge swatch, wash, and then measure. The hem should be straight. Happy stitching!.

09.11.2021 kl. 21:41:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hei! Am still puzzled over this sweater. The instructions says to decrease 1 stitch each side after 2inches. After 2 inches there is an increase every 1,1/8 rows how much rows is 1. 1/8. I am not good at math so my calculations could be incorrect. Also after the increases the hem is not straight like the picture. Is the hen slanted?

09.11.2021 - 15:25:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, with a tension of 22 rows = 10 cm/4 ", 1 row should be approx. 0.45 cm/1.18 inches. The bottom edge should be straight, the decreases are worked on the sides of the jacket to give the A-Shape - see chart. Hope this will help.

10.11.2021 kl. 07:23:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi! Thanks again. Am making size 52. Am still confused because theme stockinett stitch section and the seed stitch section is not the same length. The instructions and your response is “when the piece measures 15 inches to start the buttonhole. I So am not sure how to proceed or if I should just give up on this project. I have put a lot of time into it so far. I could purchase the yarn used in the pattern but will I have the Sam problems.

08.11.2021 - 11:55:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, do you mean size XXXL? When piece measures 58 cm / 22¾” you cast off the first 10 sts (= seed stitches) for neck, continue working the remaining sts as before and continue casting off for neck as explained (all seed stitches will then be cast off and picked up later for neck). First buttonhole is worked at 15 " and last buttonhole will be opened at 22', this means before you cast off for neck. Can this help?

08.11.2021 kl. 12:15:

country flag Sharon wrote:

First let me thank this team for responding to all my questions. I am at the right front of this project. The seed stitch band is on 18 inches an am supposed to make 3 buttonholes. The problem I have is one buttonhole at 18 inches the other at 20 inches brings me to where I should begin to cast off for the neck with not enough length here for the last buttonhole? What is the solution here? Thinking og ripping out and making a buttonhole closer yo the first. Am just tired of undoing my work.

06.11.2021 - 06:52:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, could you remind us which size you are working on? If I'm right thinking you are working the largest size, buttonholes are worked when piece measures 15”- 18½”- 22” and you will bind off fro neckt when piece measures 22¾, ie after the 3rd buttonhole. Can this help?

08.11.2021 kl. 07:30:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Thank you, thank you so much for answering all my questions. Greatly appreciate. Now am a happy knitter and cannot wait to finish this sweater and enjoy it. S

29.10.2021 - 12:42:

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi! Finally Working on the left front and I have a question: Where should I measure for length? The Stockinette area has a length of 31 cm with 3 stitches left to decrease. The moss stitch area measures 22 cm in length. My gauge in Stockinette is spot on after blocking. For the buttonholes I assume I would measure only the moss stitch area. And the Stockinette area for all other purposes. Please confirm.

29.10.2021 - 11:34:

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sharon, for the buttonholes you should measure the moss stitch area,the stockinette area for all other purposes. A jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline. Happy knitting!

29.10.2021 kl. 12:36:

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