DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.45$. Read more.

Silver Haze

DROPS jacket in ”Snow” or ”Nepal” or "Andes" with A-shape and ¾-long or long sleeves. Size S to XXXL

DROPS 103-1
SNOW
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Measurement around chest: 84-92-102-112-124-132 cm
[33”- 36¼”- 40”- 44”¬ – 48¾”- 52”]
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm
[21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g, clr. no. 46, grey.
Long sleeves:
750-800-900-950-1050-1150 g, clr. no. 46, grey.

Or use:
Materials: DROPS Andes from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
700-800-900-900-1000-1100 g, clr. no. 9015, grey.
Long sleeves:
800-900-1000-1000-1100-1200 g, clr. no. 9015, grey.

DROPS pointed needles size 8 mm [US 11] – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

DROPS Buffalo horn button no. 536: 3 pcs.
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NEPAL
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Measurement around chest: 84-92-102-112-124-132 cm
[33”- 36¼”- 40”- 44”¬ – 48¾”- 52”]
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm
[21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Materials:DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
600-650-750-800-900-1000 g, color 517, medium gray
Long sleeves:
700-750-800-900-1000-1050 g, color 517, medium gray.

DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

DROPS Buffalo-horn buttons no. 536: 3 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
General comment: The double seed sts at the front will pull a little when knitting, but will stretch out when the garment is finish.

Knitting gauge: 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette = 10 x 10 cm [4” x 4”].

Double seed sts:
1st row: * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over P and K over K.
3rd row: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*
4th row: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.

Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.

Button holes: Bind off for button holes on the right front piece.
1 button hole = bind off the 4th st from the front edge and on the returning row cast on a new st over the bound off st.
Bind off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 33, 40 and 47 cm [13”- 15¾”- 18½”].
Size M: 35, 42 and 49 cm [13¾”- 16½”- 19¼”].
Size L: 37, 44 and 51 cm [14½”- 17¼”- 20”].
Size XL: 38, 45 and 52 cm [15”- 17¾”- 20½”].
Size XXL: 38, 46 and 54 cm [15”- 18”- 21¼”].
Size XXXL: 38, 47 and 56 cm [15”- 18½”- 22”].
____________________________________________________


Back piece: Knit back and forth on needles!
Cast on 64-68-72-80-84-88 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS)– see explanation for rib above.
Continue in stockinette. Remember to check your gauge!
When the piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off 1 st each side (bind off in beg of following 2 rows), repeat on every 3½-3½-4½-4-5-5 cm [1¼”- 1¼”- 1¾”- 1½”- 2” - 2”] a total of 8-8-7-8-7-7 times = 48-52-58-64-70-74 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for armholes in the beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-3-4 times = 40-42-42-44-46-48 sts left.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm [20”- 21”- 21 5/8”- 22½” - 23¼”- 24”] bind off the mid 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for the neck and work each shoulder separate.
On the next row starting at neck bind off 1 more st = 13-14-14-14-15-16 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Left front piece: Cast on 39-41-43-49-51-53 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 P sts at the side (seen from the RS).
Continue in stockinette and 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts towards front edge in Double Seed st – see explanation above!
When piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off at the side as done for the back piece = 31-33-36-41-44-46 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for the armhole at the side as done for the back piece = 27-28-28-31-32-33 sts.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm [19¼”- 20” 21”- 21¼”- 22”- 22¾”] bind off 10 sts in the beg of next row starting from front edge (for neck). Insert 1 marker after the bound off sts.
Then bind off for the neck in beg of every row starting from front edge: 2 sts 2-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 0-0-0-1-1-1 time = 13-14-14-14-15-16 sts left for the shoulder.
Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. In addition remember to bind off for the buttonholes at the front edge – see explanation above.

Sleeve: The numbers before ( ) apply for the ¾-long sleeves and the numbers in the ( ) applies for the long sleeves.
Cast on 34-34-34-38-38-38 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow.
Knit in double seed st – see explanation above – with 1 edge st in garter each side.
When the piece measures 10 cm [4”] continue in stockinette.
At the same time when the piece measures 11 (25) cm [4 3/8” (9¾”)] inc 1 st each side, repeat inc on every 9-6-4½-6-4-2½ cm [3½”- 2 3/8”- 1¾”- 2 3/8”- 1½”- 1”] a total of 3-4-5-4-5-7 times = 40-42-44-46-48-52 sts.
When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-28 (49-48-47-46-44-43) cm
[13 3/8”- 13”- 12½”- 12¼”- 11 3/8”- 11” (19¼”- 19”- 18½”- 18”- 17¼”- 4 3/8”)] bind off for the sleeve cap in beginning of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 sts 2-3-4-4-6-7 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 40 (55) cm [15¾” (21 5/8”)], then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and then bind off remaining sts.
The piece measures approx. 42 (57) cm [16½” (22½”)].

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams

Collar: Pick up approx. 24 to 28 sts between the markers at the neck line (i.e do not pick up sts in the outer most 10 sts each side toward the front edges). Knit 2 rows of garter sts – on the last row inc 10 sts evenly distributed = 34-38 sts.
Continue in Double Seed st with 1 garter st each side - at the same time inc 2 sts each side as follows: knit 2 sts in the first st, then make a yo (on return row work yo twisted to avoid a hole, i.e work yo in the back loop)– incorporate new sts into seed pattern as going along. Inc 2 sts this way at the beg of every row a total of 6 times each side = 24 extra sts = a total of 58-62 sts.
Bind off when the collar measures 12 cm [4¾”] mid back.
Sew the collar tight to the front pieces each side in the outer part of the edge, i.e. new sts are sewn to the 10 bind off sts each side. Sew the sleeve and the side seams inside 1 edge st.
Sew on the buttons.
_____________________________________________________________


NEPAL

Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette = 10 x 10 cm [4” x 4”]

Double Seed st:
1st row: * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over P and K over K.
3rd row: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*
4th row: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.

Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.

Button holes: Bind off for button holes at the right front piece.
1 button hole = bind off the 5th and 6th st from the edge. On the returning row cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts.
Bind off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 33, 40 and 47 cm [13”- 15¾”- 18½”].
Size M: 35, 42 and 49 cm [13¾”- 16½”- 19¼”].
Size L: 37, 44 and 51 cm [14½”- 17¼”- 20”].
Size XL: 38, 45 and 52 cm [15”- 17¾”- 20½”].
Size XXL: 38, 46 and 54 cm [15”- 18”- 21¼”].
Size XXXL: 38, 47 and 56 cm [15”- 18½”- 22”].
____________________________________________


Back piece: Knit back and forth on needles!
Cast on 96-104-112-124-132-136 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Nepal.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS)– see explanation above. Continue in stockinette. Remember to check your gauge!
When the piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off 1 st each side (bind off in beg of following 2 rows), repeat on every 2½-2½-2½-2½-2½-3 cm [7/8”- 7/8”- 7/8”- 7/8”- 7/8” - 1 1/8”] a total of 11-12-12-13-12-11 times = 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for armholes in beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 3-3-4-3-4-4 times = 62-64-66-68-72-74 sts left.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm [20”- 21”- 21 5/8”- 22½”- 23¼”- 24”] bind off the mid 20-20-20-24-24-24 sts for the neck and work each shoulder seperate.
On the next row from neck bind off 1 more st = 20-21-22-21-23-24 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Left front piece: Cast on 59-63-67-75-79-81 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Nepal.
Knit 2 rows of garter sts and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter and 2 P sts at the side (seen from the RS).
Continue in stockinette and 22-22-22-26-26-26 sts toward front in Double Seed st – see explanation above!
When the piece measures 5 cm [2”] bind off at the side as done for the back piece = 48-51-55-62-67-70 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13¾”- 14¼”- 14½”- 15”- 15¼“-15¾”] bind off for the armhole at the side as done for the back piece = 42-43-44-47-49-50 sts.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm [19¼”- 20” 21”- 21¼”- 22”- 22¾”] bind off 16 sts in the beg of next row starting from front edge (for neck). Insert 1 marker after the bound off sts. Then bind off for the neck in beg of every row starting from front edge: 2 sts 2-2-2-4-4-4 times and 1 st 2 times = 20-21-22-21-23-24 sts left for the shoulder.
Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21¼”- 22”- 22¾”- 23 5/8”- 24 3/8”- 25¼”].

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. In addition remember to bind off for the buttonholes at the front edge – see explanation above.

Sleeve: The numbers before ( ) apply for the ¾-long sleeves and the numbers in the ( ) applies for the long sleeves.
Cast on 50-50-54-54-58-58 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Nepal.
Knit in Double Seed st– se explanation above – with 1 edge st each side.
When the piece measures 10 cm [4”] continue in stockinette.
At the same time when the piece measures 11 (25) cm [4 3/8” (9¾”)] inc 1 st each side, repeat inc on every 5-3-3-2-2-1½ cm [2”- 1 1/8”- 1 1/8”- ¾”- ¾”- ¼”] a total off 5-7-7-9-9-11 times = 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts.
When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-28 (49-48-47-46-44-43) cm
[13 3/8”- 13”- 12½”- 12¼”- 11 3/8”- 11” (19¼”- 19”- 18½”- 18”- 17¼”- 4 3/8”)] bind off for the sleeve cap in beg of every row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 sts 1-2-3-4-6-7 times.
Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 41 (56) cm [15¾” (21 5/8”)], then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and then bind off remaining sts.
The piece measures approx. 42 (57) cm [16½” (22½”)].

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams

Collar: Pick up approx. 36 to 42 sts between the markers at the neck line (i.e do not pick up sts in the outer most 16 sts each side toward the front edges). Knit 2 rows of garter sts – on the last row inc 12 sts evenly distributed = 48-54 sts.
Continue in Double Seed st with 1 garter st each side - at the same time inc 2 sts each side as follows: knit 2 sts in the first st, then make a yo (on return row work yo twisted to avoid a hole, i.e work yo in the back loop)– incorporate new sts into seed pattern as going along. Inc 2 sts this way at the beg of every row a total of 9 times each side = 36 extra sts = a total of 84-90 sts.
Bind off when the collar measures 12 cm [4¾”] mid back.
Sew the collar tight to the front pieces each side in the outer part of the edge, i.e. new sts are sewn to the 16 bound off sts each side. Sew the sleeve and the side seams inside 1 edge st.
Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.10.2007
General comment:
The double moss sts at the front will pull a little when knitting, but will stretch out when the garment is finish.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (275)

country flag Angela wrote:

Thank you for answering my question and clarifying things for me. Kind Regards

23.07.2023 - 20:58

country flag Angela wrote:

Hello, I am having trouble with the instructions for the sleeves. I have completed the decreases which are the same as Back but then patterns says ‘Continue to bind off 2 sts each side’ which does not make sense as the last decrease I did was 1 st each side. Also there is no stitch count in these instructions compared to other sections. Any help would be great. Thank you.

21.07.2023 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Angela, it means that, after casting off 1 stitch the specified amount of times indicated you will continue by casting off 2 stitches on each side until the piece reaches the desired measurements (to obtain this specific sleeve cup curved shape). Since the amount of stitches is not relevant here (you will cast off all stitches right after reaching the desired length) we don't indicate the remaining stitches. After all, these remaining stitches may vary depending on the gauge of your work and it will not matter how many you have left as long as you reach the indicated length. Happy knitting!

23.07.2023 - 19:17

country flag Helena Silva wrote:

Muito obrigada pela vossa excelente explicação. Já fiz e ficou lindo

20.10.2022 - 09:20

country flag Helena Lopes Silva wrote:

Ola, ao fazer a gola deste modelo posso levantar as malhas a toda volta do decote em vez de ter fazer aumentos e depois coser? Qual a diferença? Obrigada

16.10.2022 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Boa tarde, As malhas , no modelo, são levantadas para formar a gola. Pode levantar sem fazer os aumentos, mas não terá o mesmo feitio. Os aumentos vão enviesar a gola para que possa ficar como na foto ao ser dobrada. Sem os aumentos, há a possibilidade de a gola, ao ser dobrada, ficar estreita. Bons tricôs!

18.10.2022 - 15:47

country flag Karen Christensen wrote:

Vedr. drops 103-1 Nepal Ærme: …….. Når arb måler 34-33-32-29-28(49-48-47-46-44-43) Skal det ikke være…………. Når arb måler 28-29-32-33-34(43-44-46-47-48-49 Med venlig hilsen Karen Christensen

12.10.2022 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karen. Nei, det er riktig slik det står (det er kortere mål i de større størrelsene pga bredere skuldervidde og lengre ermetopp). mvh DROPS Design

17.10.2022 - 13:12

country flag Helena Lopes Silva wrote:

No vosso diagrama os números são n. de malhas ou cm e na vertical são voltas? Não consigo chegar a uma conclusão. Obrigada

02.10.2022 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Todos os números indicados no diagrama são em cm tanto em largura como em altura. Bons tricôs!

03.10.2022 - 10:09

country flag Nancy Normandeau wrote:

Est-ce que je peux prendre une autre sorte de laine moyenne pour faire ce chandail? Il est tellement beau

29.04.2022 - 03:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Normandeau, les explications de ce modèle sont disponibles en 2 versions: Snow/Andes soit 11 m x 15 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm soit la version Nepal (plus bas dans la page) 17 m x22 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

29.04.2022 - 08:33

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi igjen. Am working on the collar and I have a question. The collar is not yet 12 cm and it seems like it is going to be longer than the peice it is going to be sewn to. Should I knit 12 cm anyways and stretch to sew together. Or should I cast off when the collar is the correct length to see. That is the lengths are the same. Not sure how to end this .Thanks. S

27.01.2022 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, cast off stitches on collar when peice measures 12 cm on mid back, then sew the new stitches increased on each side along the 16 sts cast off on each front piece. Happy knitting!

28.01.2022 - 08:50

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi! Thanks for your response, but it is impossible to pick up 36 or 42 sts. If i do there er large gaps. Had to pick up more sts and decreased. the YO is not the problem its the amount of stitches to pic up.

24.01.2022 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, remember that you don't have to pick up sts along the 16 sts on each front piece; this mean just pick up 8 sts on each front piece + 24 sts on neckline back piece = 42 sts. Should you get more/less sts, you can then adjust on first row. Happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 10:25

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi, am picking for the collar on the largest size of the Nepal version. My question is how do i pick up so there er no large gaps between the picked up stitches. I tried twice and ripped put because there were too many stitches and when i tried to pick up 42 stitches there were large gaps between stitches as mentioned. So how do I solve this problem.

23.01.2022 - 00:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sharon, If you get large gaps between the stitches, when you first work the knitted-up stitches, work them twisted (i.e. in the back loop). This should avoid holes. Happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 08:05