DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!



Knitted sweater with stocking st and raglan in DROPS Alpaca. Size children 5 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 15-4
Size: 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 -11/12 - 13/14 years
All measurements in charts below are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300 g color no 8120, jeans blue

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3
or the size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge
DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 (forRib)

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with drops Alpaca in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4"


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Garter sts (when knitting in the round on needle):
1st round: K
2nd round: P.

Garter st (when knitting back and forth on needle):
Knit all rows.

Decreasing tips (applies to raglan):
Dec as follows from RS: Start 3 sts before sts with marking thread (MT): K2 tog, K1, 1 sts garter sts (MT placed in this sts), K1, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS: Start 3 sts before sts with marking thread: P2 into back of st tog (i.e. knit into back of sts instead of front of sts), P1, 1 garter st (= sts with marking thread), P1, P2 tog.

Back and front pieces:
Work piece in the round on circular needles.
Cast on 184-192-200-208-224 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Alpaca. Work 2 rounds garter sts – see explanation above.
Continue in Rib K2/P2.
When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4 cm / 1"-1"-1"-1½"-1½" K1 round at the same time dec 16 sts evenly = 168-176-184-192-208 sts.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and insert 2 markers in piece as follows: 1st marker on beginning of round and 2nd marker after 84-88-92-96-104 sts (= marking sides).
Continue with stockinette sts until piece is completed.
When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6 cm / 2"-2"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"- inc 1 sts on each side of both markers (= 4 increases), repeat inc on every 6-5-6-5-5 cm / 2⅜"-2"-2⅜"-2"-2" a total of 4-5-5-6-6 times = 184-196-204-216-232 sts.
When piece measures 28-30-34-35-36 cm / 11"-11¾"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼" bind off 8 sts on each side for armhole (i.e. 4 sts on each side of each marker) = 168-180-188-200-216 sts left in total for front and back pieces.
Leave piece aside and work sleeves.

Cast on 56-60-64-64-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2,5 mm / US 1 with Alpaca.
Work 2 rows of garter sts.
Continue in Rib K2/P2.
When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4 cm / 1"-1"-1"-1½"-1½" K1 round at the same time dec 4-6-6-6-6 sts evenly = 52-54-58-58-62 sts.
Insert a marker at beginning of round (= mid under arm).
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and work stockinette sts throughout.
When piece measures 6-7-7-9-9 cm / 2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-3½"-3½" inc 1 sts on each side of marker mid under arm, repeat inc on every 3-3-3.5-2.5-3 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1¼"-⅞"-1⅛" a total of 9-10-10-13-13 times = 70-74-78-84-88 sts.
When piece measures 34-38-42-44-48 cm / 13⅜"-15"-16½"-17¼"-19" bind off 8 sts mid under arm (i.e. 4 sts on each side of marker) = 62-66-70-76-80 sts.
Put piece aside and make one more sleeve.

Slip sleeves onto same circular needle as back and front pieces where sts are bound off for armholes = 292-312-328-352-376 sts.
Insert a marker in all transition between sleeves and back and front pieces. (Insert markers in first and last sts on sleeve) = 4 markers.
Knit 1-1-0-0-1 rounds of stockinette sts.
Then start dec for raglan as follows:
Dec 1 sts on each side of 4 markers (= 8 dec) – read Decreasing tips.
Dec on every other row 20-22-24-24-25 times and every row 3-3-3-6-7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-43-48-50-52 cm / 15¾"-17"-19"-19¾"-20½" slip 24-26-26-26-30 sts mid front on a stitch holder for neck
Continue and bind off to shape neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times.
At completion of all dec for raglan there are 76-78-78-78-82 sts left.
Piece measures approx 45-48-53-55-57 cm / 17¾"-19"-21"-21⅝"-22½" to shoulder.

Neck band:
Pick up 38-40-40-40-44 sts (including sts on stitch holder) on neckline of front piece = 114-118-118-118-126 sts. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 and knit K1 round at the same time dec 14 sts evenly = 100-104-104-104-112 sts.
K 1 round, P 1 round and then continue in Rib K2/P2.
When rib measures 6 cm / 2⅜" bind off loosely K over K and P over P.

Fold Rib on neckband double towards WS and sew on inside.
Sew openings under arms.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Eva wrote:

Hallo, Ich finde den Pullover total toll. Möchte ihn bald Stricken (Wolle schon bestellt). Lese mich gerade in die Anleitung (bin keine blutige Anfängerin, aber auch nicht so sicher). Ist beim Vorder- und Rückteil beim „Abketten“ gemeint, einfach Maschen zusammen zu stricken und um die Anzahl verringern. „Abketten“ bedeutet für mich eher am Ende einer Arbeit zu sein. Freue mich auf Antwort. Lieben Dank Eva

04.04.2024 - 00:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Eva, die 8 Maschen beidseitig werden für das Armloch an beiden Seiten abgekettet, dann für die Passe kommen die Ärmel über diese abgeketteten Maschen - siehe Video. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

04.04.2024 - 08:37

country flag Marie Laure wrote:

Mon pt fils a 9ans et mesure 137cm.Dois je tricoter le modèle en 9ans ou en 11/12?

09.12.2023 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie Laure, mesurez un vêtement similaire qui lui va et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, c'est la façon la plus simple de trouver la bonne taille. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

11.12.2023 - 08:36

country flag Cristina wrote:

Buongiorno! Sto lavorando il davanti/dietro di questo modello con i ferri circolari e sono arrivata al punto di dover intrecciare le maglie per lo scalfo. Non mi è chiaro come si faccia ad intrecciare le maglie a dx del segnapunti visto che lavoro sempre dal dritto. Grazie!

21.03.2022 - 08:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, può tagliare il filo e intrecciare le maglie con descritto. Buon lavoro!

29.03.2022 - 22:57

country flag Jamie Epperson wrote:

Hello! Thank you so much for making all of these wonderful patterns available. They are beautiful and always accurate. Great job DROPS Design! My question: In the YOKE section, there is this instruction: "Continue....bind off to shape shoulders. This bind off should occur on the stitches closest to the stitches on the holder or the stitches on the shoulder? Thanks for clarifying. Jamie

14.11.2021 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jamie, it's not for the shoulder, it's for the neckline. You bind off the stitches closest to the neck. Happy knitting!

14.11.2021 - 20:05

country flag Heide Biedermann wrote:

Habe von meiner Schwiegertochter eine wolle Von Butt wolle ( Paola Color) erhalten . Soll für den Enkel Größe 158/164 einen Rustikalen Pulli stricken. Jetzt fehlt mir eine Anleitung dazu, hab Angeschlagen 97 Maschen ist das zu wenig.??

17.05.2021 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Biedermann, ich kenne diese Wolle leider nicht, aber dieses Modell ist für eine Maschenprobe von 24 M x 32 R glatt rechts gestrickt = 10 x10 cm, wenn Sie diese Maschenprobe erhalten, sollten Sie dann die genauen Maßen wie bei der Maßskizze für die gewünschte Größe erhalten. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.05.2021 - 08:11

country flag Couyet Nicole wrote:

Bonjour, Auriez vous un modèle basique top down raglan pour adulte et enfant avec rehausse Merci Bonne journée

10.03.2020 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Couyet, vous devriez trouver votre bonheur parmi tous nos modèles de pulls tricotés en top down. N'hésitez pas à utiliser les filtres. Bon tricot!

10.03.2020 - 16:26

country flag Dalmazia Lodi Rizzini wrote:

Ho realizzato questa maglia con filato alpaca uni color color 6790 ha stinto nell'acqua e macchiato l'asciugamano dove l'avevo avvolto per asciugarlo. trovata bene per altri filati ma delusa. impossibile far indossare maglia a bimbo di sei anni

25.02.2019 - 05:35

country flag Stina wrote:

Werden die mittleren Maschen auf dem Hilfsfaden bei der Passe nicht mehr gestrickt? Wird ab da in hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt? Dann würde es auch Sinn machen warum Raglanabnahmen von links erklärt sind...

03.02.2019 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stina, wenn die mittleren Maschen für den Halsausschnitt am Vorderteil stillgelegt sind, stricken Sie in Reihen weiter (Maschen werden auf beiden Seiten für den Halsausschnitt abgekettet), dann wird am Ende den Kragen gestrickt (die stillgelegten Maschen stricken Sie dann hier). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.02.2019 - 12:39

country flag Annika Hallberg wrote:

Jag ser att ett garnalternativ till Alpaca är Safran. Men hur blir det då eftersom tröjan skall stickas i dubbelt garn? Blir det inte väldigt tjockt? Eller skall man sticka i enkelt garn om man använder Safran?

01.04.2017 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annika, Tröjan skall inte stickas i dubbelt garn enligt mönstret, så du kan sticka den i én tråd Alpaca eller én tråd Safran, du kan även sticka den i ett annat DROPS garn från garngrupp A. Lycka till!

03.04.2017 - 14:39

country flag Agnès wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais faire ce modèle pour homme taille L, pourriez vous me dire la quantité de laine que je dois prendre. Est-il possible d'avoir les explications correspondant à cette taille ? Merci d'avance

29.05.2016 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Agnès, nous ne sommes pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande individuelle - retrouvez ici tous nos modèles de pull homme. Votre magasin DROPS pourra vous conseiller si besoin. Bon tricot!

30.05.2016 - 10:01