DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
 100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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  8. 36

Robinson

DROPS Hat and gloves

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DROPS Children 12-36
HAT:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years.

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g color no. 01, off white
50-50-50 g color no. 49, light brown
50-50-50 g color no. 50, dark brown

DROPS double pointed needles size 5 and 5.5 mm /US 8 an 9
DROPS Crochet hook size 4mm/US 6

GLOVES:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years.

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g color no 49, light brown
+ a remainder of off white and dark brown from the hat.

DROPS double pointed needles size 4 and 5.5 mm / US 6 and 9

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
 100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
HAT:
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Garter sts (on circular needles): P1 round, K1 round.
Stripes: *6 rounds in off white, 6 rounds in dark brown, 6 rounds in light brown*, repeat from *-*.

Hat:
Cast on 70-77-84 sts with light brown and needles size 5 mm / US 8.
Work 6 rounds of garter sts.
Change to needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette sts and stripes – see explanation above – until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 11-12-13 cm / 4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛", insert 7 markers in the piece with 10-11-12 sts in between each marker.
Continue to dec at the right side of each marker as follows:
K2 tog on every 4th row 3 times and then on every other row 5-6-7 times = 14 sts left on round.
K2 tog around, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining sts, pull tight and fasten.
The hat measures approx. 21-23-25 cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾".

Earflap:
Loosely ch 7-8-9 (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4mm/US 6 and dark brown..
1st row – dark brown: Crochet 1 tr in each ch = 5-6-7 tr (1st tr = 3 ch), cut the yarn.
2nd row- dark brown: Turn the piece, crochet 3 ch and crochet 1 tr in between each tr from previous row. Around the 3 ch at the end crochet 5 tr and continue to crochet tr’s in between each tr from the 1st the row without turning the piece. Finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 13-15-17 tr around the "bend", cut the yarn.
3rd row- light brown: Turn the piece, 3 ch in the first tr and then 1 tr in between each tr from previous row – but in between each of the 5 tr at the top crochet 2 tr, finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 18-20-22 tr. Cut the yarn.
4th row – off white: Turn the piece, 3 ch in the first tr and then 1 tr in between each tr from previous row – but in between each of the 6 tr at the top crochet 2 tr, finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 24-26-28 tr. Cut the yarn.
5th row – dark brown: : Turn the piece, 3 ch in the first tr and then 1 tr in between each tr from previous row – but in between each of the 6 tr at the top crochet 2 tr, finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 30-32-34 tr.
The earflap measures approx 9 cm / 3½" in the width at the top, and 7-8-9 cm / 2¾"-3⅛"-3½" in the height.
Crochet one more flap.

Assembly:
Sew 1 flap to each side of the hat, leaving a gap of approx 14-16-18 cm / 5½"-6¼"-7" at the mid front and a gap of 12-14-16 cm / 4¾"-5½"-6¼" at the back -sew the flaps edge by edge with the hat with small neat stitches.

Tassel:
Cut 4 strands of each color, each 18 cm / 7" long.
Fold them double and pull the loop (with the help of the crochet hook) through the top round of the hat. Pull the ends through the loop and pull tight.



GLOVES:
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts (on circular needles): P 1st round, K 2nd round.

Decrease tips:
Dec as follows before the marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after the marker: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Cast on 28-32-36 sts with light brown and needles size 5.5 mm / US 9.
Work 4 rounds of garter sts, and then continue in stockinette sts.
When the piece measures 3 cm / 1⅛", change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work 4-4-5 cm / 1½"-1½"-2" in Rib.
Change back to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette sts – measure the piece from this point from now on.
At the same time on the first round dec 6 sts evenly on round = 22-26-30 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 1-1-2 cm / ⅜"-⅜"-¾" insert 3 markers in the piece as follows; 1 marker (= the side), K 1 (= the thumb st), 1 marker, K 10-12-14 (= palm of hand), 1 marker (= the side), K 11-13-15 (= top of the hand).
On the next round inc for the thumb gusset as follows:
Inc 1 st each side of the thumb st by knitting 2 st in 1 st.
Repeat this on every 3rd round a total of 2-2-3 times = 7-7-9 sts (= the thumb).
When the piece measures 3-4-5 cm / 1⅛"-1½"-2" put the thumb sts on a holder.
Cast on 1 new st behind the thumb = 22-26-30 sts and continue in stockinette sts.
When the piece measures 8-9-11 cm / 3⅛"-3½"-4⅜" dec in both sides of the markers – see Dec tips: On every other round 3 times and on every round 1-2-3 times = 6 sts left. Cut the yarn pull it through the remaining sts, and sew tight.
The glove measures approx. 18-20-23 cm / 7"-8"-9".

Thumb:
Put the 7-7-9 sts from the holder back on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and pick up 3 sts behind the thumb = 10-10-12 sts.
Continue in stockinette sts until the thumb measures 3.5-4.5-5.5 cm / 1¼"-1¾"-2¼", K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn, pull it through the remaining sts, and sew it tight.

Trimming bands:
Cut 2 strands of each color (remains from the hat = 6 strands), each 70 cm / 27½" long. Tie knots loosely with 3 strands in each "bunch" – begin 8 cm / 3⅛" from the top of the strands and leave 8 cm / 3⅛" without any knots at the bottom.
Sew the band edge by edge to the edge of the gloves – begin at the opposite side of the thumb – and tie the loose ends tog at the side.
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Paula Thivierge wrote:

Bonjour je fais le chapeau pour 10/14 et vous demander de placer 7 marqueur mais si je fais comme vous dites a 12 mailles d interval je nen mais que 6 merci de m aider

19.12.2017 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thivierge, en taille 10/14 ans, vous avez 84 mailles, en plaçant un marqueur après chaque 12ème maille, vous aurez un total de 7 marqueurs (= 7x12 = 84). Bon tricot!

20.12.2017 - 09:17

country flag Paula Thivierge wrote:

Je ne comprend pas comment faire mes diminutions du bonnet je le fais pour mon petit fils j aimerais bien me faire expliquer svp

18.12.2017 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thivierge, vous diminuez 1 m avant chacun des marqueurs en tricotant 2 m ens à l'end, en taille 10/14 ans, vous diminuez 3 fois tous les 4 rangs puis 7 fois tous les 2 rangs (cf description dans la réponse précédente). Bon tricot!

19.12.2017 - 08:14

country flag Paula Thivierge wrote:

Bonjour j aime beaucoups le model du bonnet mais je ne suis pas sure de bien comprendre la diminution 2m 3fois pour le premier rang si je comprend la premiere diminution j en tricote 6mailles et je diminue 3fois 2ma et je fais la meme chose jusqu'au bout du rang et je recommence au bout du quatrieme rangs et 7fois 2m ens tous les 2rangs merci de m expliquer

16.12.2017 - 06:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thivierge, vous placez 7 marqueurs et diminuez ainsi: *1 tour en tricotant 2 m ens à l'end à droite de chaque marqueur (= avant chaque marqueur) = 7 diminutions au total. Tricotez 3 rangs sans diminuer.*, répétez de *-* un total de 3 fois, puis: *1 tour de diminutions comme avant, 1 tour sans diminutions*, répétez de *-* 7 fois au total = il reste 14 m. Bon tricot!

18.12.2017 - 08:17

country flag Francine Lacoste wrote:

Bonjour et bravo pour vos modeles, je veux faire le bonnet pour un tour de tete de 52 cm quelle taille devrais-je prendre merci

25.10.2015 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lacoste, en taille 6/9 ans, vous le bonnet fera approx. 48 cm, et en taille 10/14 ans, il fera 52.5 cm approx, sur la base de l'échantillon de 16 m = 10 cm. Choisissez la taille en fonction du résultat souhaité (plus ou moins serré). Bon tricot!

26.10.2015 - 11:31

country flag Melli wrote:

Nachdem ich die Spitze der Handschuhe fertiggestrickt habe, möchte ich nun den Daumen Stricken. Dazu wollte ich die stillgelegten Daumenspickelmaschen auf die Nadeln legen und dann vor dem Steg die Masche nach rechts gerichtet aus dem Querfaden aufnehmen , die maschen aus den Stegmaschen normal herausstricken und die nächste nach links gerichtet aus dem Querfaden herausstricken ? Ist das so ok ? Liebe Grüße Melli

04.02.2015 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das können Sie so machen. Die Stegmasche ist ja nur eine einzige M, nämlich die, die Sie nach dem Stilllegen der Daumen-M hinter den Daumenmaschen angeschlagen haben. Rechts und links davon können Sie je 1 M wie von Ihnen beschrieben auffassen und dazwischen fassen Sie die Stegmasche auf (= 3 M).

04.02.2015 - 19:03

country flag Kathy DeWitt wrote:

Yes, thank you. You are correct. But somehow it worked out and I have the correct number of stitches. I think I just wasn't picking them up properly!

13.12.2014 - 23:19

country flag Kathy DeWitt wrote:

Thank you for last reply but I have another question. I am making the largest size and when you increase for the thumb it says you should have 9 thumb stitches after increasing 3 times. Shouldn't these say 4 times? i.e. 2 stitches per increase row X 4 = 8 stitches plus the thumb stitch = 9 in total?

10.12.2014 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs De Witt, inc for thumb are done knitting 2 sts in 1 st each side of thumb, these sts each side come to account to thumb sts, so 1 thumb st + 1 st each side (the one you will work front & back loop to inc) + 3 x 2 sts = 9 sts for thumb. Happy knitting!

11.12.2014 - 10:01

country flag Kathy DeWitt wrote:

Hi there: Please can you tell me where you measure the length thumb from? Is it from where you first begin to increase for the thumb stitches or from where you separate the thumb stitches to continue with the hand?? Thank you!

03.12.2014 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs DeWitt, measure thumb from where you knit up sts back to needles. Happy knitting!

04.12.2014 - 10:34

country flag Monia Spitaleri wrote:

Come si fà a cambiare colore?

31.01.2014 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monia. Provi a seguire le indicazioni riportate in questo video. Buon lavoro!!

31.01.2014 - 21:49

country flag Vibeke Johansen wrote:

Jeg strikker denne i str.10/14. Jeg strikker med Nepal,med pinne 4,5 for å få riktig strikkefasthet. Ved tommeløkninga når jeg 5cm fra vrangbordens slutt før jeg er ferdig med å øke? Jeg har målt strikkefastheten, den skal stemme. I tillegg lurer jeg på om 11 cm fra vrangborden og til starten på felling er ment å holde til 10/14 år? Jeg har en 11 åring og votten ble for kort til han. Planen er å gi bort vottene i gave til en 12 åring, men jeg bør kanskje strikke de enda lengre?

18.09.2012 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Om du får et mindre cm mål strikker du bare litt lenger før du setter de på tråden. Hender kan variere i str så om du er usikker på om den er lang nok så strikk et cm etter to til før du starter fellingen.

27.09.2012 - 08:48

Robinson


DROPS Hat and gloves

DROPS Children 12-36
HAT:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years.

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g color no. 01, off white
50-50-50 g color no. 49, light brown
50-50-50 g color no. 50, dark brown

DROPS double pointed needles size 5 and 5.5 mm /US 8 an 9
DROPS Crochet hook size 4mm/US 6

GLOVES:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years.

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g color no 49, light brown
+ a remainder of off white and dark brown from the hat.

DROPS double pointed needles size 4 and 5.5 mm / US 6 and 9

HAT:
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Garter sts (on circular needles): P1 round, K1 round.
Stripes: *6 rounds in off white, 6 rounds in dark brown, 6 rounds in light brown*, repeat from *-*.

Hat:
Cast on 70-77-84 sts with light brown and needles size 5 mm / US 8.
Work 6 rounds of garter sts.
Change to needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette sts and stripes – see explanation above – until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 11-12-13 cm / 4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛", insert 7 markers in the piece with 10-11-12 sts in between each marker.
Continue to dec at the right side of each marker as follows:
K2 tog on every 4th row 3 times and then on every other row 5-6-7 times = 14 sts left on round.
K2 tog around, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining sts, pull tight and fasten.
The hat measures approx. 21-23-25 cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾".

Earflap:
Loosely ch 7-8-9 (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4mm/US 6 and dark brown..
1st row – dark brown: Crochet 1 tr in each ch = 5-6-7 tr (1st tr = 3 ch), cut the yarn.
2nd row- dark brown: Turn the piece, crochet 3 ch and crochet 1 tr in between each tr from previous row. Around the 3 ch at the end crochet 5 tr and continue to crochet tr’s in between each tr from the 1st the row without turning the piece. Finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 13-15-17 tr around the "bend", cut the yarn.
3rd row- light brown: Turn the piece, 3 ch in the first tr and then 1 tr in between each tr from previous row – but in between each of the 5 tr at the top crochet 2 tr, finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 18-20-22 tr. Cut the yarn.
4th row – off white: Turn the piece, 3 ch in the first tr and then 1 tr in between each tr from previous row – but in between each of the 6 tr at the top crochet 2 tr, finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 24-26-28 tr. Cut the yarn.
5th row – dark brown: : Turn the piece, 3 ch in the first tr and then 1 tr in between each tr from previous row – but in between each of the 6 tr at the top crochet 2 tr, finish with a tr in the last tr from previous row = 30-32-34 tr.
The earflap measures approx 9 cm / 3½" in the width at the top, and 7-8-9 cm / 2¾"-3⅛"-3½" in the height.
Crochet one more flap.

Assembly:
Sew 1 flap to each side of the hat, leaving a gap of approx 14-16-18 cm / 5½"-6¼"-7" at the mid front and a gap of 12-14-16 cm / 4¾"-5½"-6¼" at the back -sew the flaps edge by edge with the hat with small neat stitches.

Tassel:
Cut 4 strands of each color, each 18 cm / 7" long.
Fold them double and pull the loop (with the help of the crochet hook) through the top round of the hat. Pull the ends through the loop and pull tight.



GLOVES:
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts (on circular needles): P 1st round, K 2nd round.

Decrease tips:
Dec as follows before the marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after the marker: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Cast on 28-32-36 sts with light brown and needles size 5.5 mm / US 9.
Work 4 rounds of garter sts, and then continue in stockinette sts.
When the piece measures 3 cm / 1⅛", change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work 4-4-5 cm / 1½"-1½"-2" in Rib.
Change back to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette sts – measure the piece from this point from now on.
At the same time on the first round dec 6 sts evenly on round = 22-26-30 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 1-1-2 cm / ⅜"-⅜"-¾" insert 3 markers in the piece as follows; 1 marker (= the side), K 1 (= the thumb st), 1 marker, K 10-12-14 (= palm of hand), 1 marker (= the side), K 11-13-15 (= top of the hand).
On the next round inc for the thumb gusset as follows:
Inc 1 st each side of the thumb st by knitting 2 st in 1 st.
Repeat this on every 3rd round a total of 2-2-3 times = 7-7-9 sts (= the thumb).
When the piece measures 3-4-5 cm / 1⅛"-1½"-2" put the thumb sts on a holder.
Cast on 1 new st behind the thumb = 22-26-30 sts and continue in stockinette sts.
When the piece measures 8-9-11 cm / 3⅛"-3½"-4⅜" dec in both sides of the markers – see Dec tips: On every other round 3 times and on every round 1-2-3 times = 6 sts left. Cut the yarn pull it through the remaining sts, and sew tight.
The glove measures approx. 18-20-23 cm / 7"-8"-9".

Thumb:
Put the 7-7-9 sts from the holder back on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and pick up 3 sts behind the thumb = 10-10-12 sts.
Continue in stockinette sts until the thumb measures 3.5-4.5-5.5 cm / 1¼"-1¾"-2¼", K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn, pull it through the remaining sts, and sew it tight.

Trimming bands:
Cut 2 strands of each color (remains from the hat = 6 strands), each 70 cm / 27½" long. Tie knots loosely with 3 strands in each "bunch" – begin 8 cm / 3⅛" from the top of the strands and leave 8 cm / 3⅛" without any knots at the bottom.
Sew the band edge by edge to the edge of the gloves – begin at the opposite side of the thumb – and tie the loose ends tog at the side.

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