DROPS Baby / 14 / 1

Little Sprout by DROPS Design

Knitted poncho with pompons and socks in DROPS Alpaca, and crochet hat in DROPS Eskimo. Available in baby and children sizes.

Poncho, hat and socks in Alpaca
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4years)
Measurements: length mid front approx: 32-34-36 (38-41) cm / 12½"-13½"-14 1/4" (15"-16 1/8")

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 3140, baby pink
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 3720, pink
50-50-50 (100-100) g 7300, apple green
and use: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 35, apple green

DROPS circular needle size 6 mm / US 10
DROPS crochet hook size 8mm / L

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 14 sts x 18 rows on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 3 strands of Alpaca in stockinette stitch = 10x10cm/ 4" x 4".

PONCHO:
Worked top down.
Cast on 54-56-58 (60-62) sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand of each Alpaca color (= 3 strands). Insert a marker between the 2 middle sts (= mid back).
Work 2 rows garter sts back and forth on needle from mid front (= end of rows), continue working back and forth (= slit mid front) as follows:
Work in stockinette sts with the 2 outermost sts each side (mid front) in garter sts.
AT THE SAME TIME increase 4 sts on every RS row as follows: K4, 1 yo, 1 yo on each side of the middle 8 sts and 1 yo when there are 4 sts left on needle.
On next row, work yo’s as sts to create holes.
When piece measures 6-7-8 (9-10) cm / 2 3/8''-2¾''-3 1/8'' (3½''-4''), stop the slit and continue in the round on needle – knit all sts.
Continue the increases on every other round, i.e. on each side of the middle 8 sts back and front.
When there are 138-148-158 (168-178) sts on round, purl 1 round, and then knit 1 round whilst inc 1 st in every 4th st on round.
On next round, bind off in purled sts.

Crochet borders:
Using Eskimo and hook size 8 mm/L, crochet a border round lower edge of poncho as follows: 1 sc in 1st st, *ch 4, 1 dc in the 1st of the 4 ch, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st*, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.

Crochet as follows round neck and along slit mid front (begin at top left side of slit):
1 sc in 1st st, *ch 1, skip 2 sts/rows, 1 sc in next st/row*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.
Continue round neck (not slit) as follows: 1 sc in 1st st, *ch 4, 1 dc in the 1st of the 4 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 sc in next ch*, repeat from *-*.

Crochet a ch-string approx 60-65-70 (75-80) cm / 23½"-31½" long and pull through the 1st crochet round at neck.
Make 2 small pompoms in Eskimo and attach to ch-string each side.
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HAT:

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4years)
To fit head circumference: 40/42 – 42/44 – 44/46 (46/48 – 50/52) cm / 16"-17"-17½" (18½"-20")

Materials: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 35, apple green

DROPS crochet hook size 8mm / L

Gauge: 8 dc x 5 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Crochet tips: Replace 1st dc on each round with 3 ch.

Crochet the hat from top down.
Chain 6 and form a ring with a sl st in 1st ch.
1st round: 10 dc in ch-ring – see Crochet tips!
2nd round: 1 dc in the 1st dc, *ch 1, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 1st dc from beginning of round
3rd round: *1 dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in ch space*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beginning of round ( = 30 dc)
4th round: 1 dc in 1st dc, *1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beginning of round) (= 15 dc)
5th round: Continue with 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in each ch, but crochet 2 dc in 0-2-4 (6-8) dc evenly distributed on round = 30-32-34 (36-38) dc.
Now crochet 2-3-3 (4-4) rounds with 1 dc in each dc.
Crochet next round as follows: 1 sc in 1st dc, *2 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beginning of round.
Cut the yarn.
The hat measures approx 15-17-17 (19-19) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4" (7½"-7½") from top to bottom edge.
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SOCKS:

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 years)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4" (5½")

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 3140, baby pink

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1or2
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5mm / C

Gauge: 26 sts x 34 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Alpaca in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Alpaca in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

SOCK:
Work the sock back and forth from mid back.
Cast on 48-52-56 (56) sts using needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and 2 strands of Alpaca. Remove 1 strand and work 5-6-6 (7) cm / 2"-2½"-2½" (2 3/4") in Rib – stop after a RS row. From WS purl 1 row, at the same time decreasing 14-14-18 (14) sts evenly on row = 34-38-38 (42) sts.
With row of eyelet holes:
Work next row as follows from the right side: K1, *K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-* and finish with K1. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Without row of holes: K 1 row from right side and purl 1 row from wrong side.

Now put the outermost 12-13-13 (15) sts each side on a holder.
Work 4 - 4.5 - 5.5 (6.5) cm / 1½"-1 3/4"-2 1/4" (2½") in stockinette sts over the middle 10-12-12- (12) sts.
Put sts from holders back on needle and pick up 10-11-13 (16) sts on each side of middle piece = 54-60-64 (74) sts.
Work 3-4-5 (5) cm / 1"-1½"-2" (2") in stockinette sts over all sts, at the same time after 1.5-2-2.5 (3.5) cm / ½"-3/4"-7/8" (1 1/4") on next RS row start decreasing on every RS row until finished measurements as follows: Dec 1 st at the beginning and end of row and K2 tog on each side of the 2 middle sts.
Bind off and sew seam at bottom of foot and up mid back.
Pull silk ribbon or similar through eyelet row.

Crochet border: Using Alpaca and hook size 2.5mm/C, crochet a border at the top of sock as follows: 1 sc in 1st st, *ch 3, 1 dc in the 1st of the 3 ch , 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts*, repeat from *-* and finish with a sl st in sc from beginning of round.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

Barbara 04.05.2019 - 07:36:

Buon giorno. È possibile avere le misure delle lunghezze del poncho? Grazie

DROPS Design 04.05.2019 kl. 08:57:

Buongiorno Barbara. A seconda della taglia, la lunghezza al centro sul davanti è ca: 32-34-36 (38-41) cm. Trova l’indicazione all’inizio delle spiegazioni, prima del materiale occorrente . Buon lavoro!

Annalisa 29.11.2018 - 14:56:

Buonasera, volevo chiederti se esiste un tutorial di inizio, a parte l avvio, come si svolgono i giri seguenti, non capisco l apertura iniziale, grazie

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 16:00:

Buongiorno Annalisa. Dopo aver avviato le maglie, lavora inizialmente in ferri di andata e di ritorno. Lavora 2 ferri a punto legaccio e poi prosegue a maglia rasata lavorando le prime 2 maglie e le ultime 2 maglie a legaccio. Segua le indicazioni per aumentare. Terminata l'apertura al centro sul davanti, lavora in tondo. Buon lavoro!

Francoise 08.10.2017 - 20:34:

Bonjour,pouvez-vous m'expliquer pour l'encolure du modèle : sauter 2 m/ rangs Dois-je comprendre : je saute 2 m à chaque fois ? Et que veux dire dans la m /le rang suivant ? Grand merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 09.10.2017 kl. 09:24:

Bonjour Françoise, pour crocheter la bordure, sautez, en fonction du sens de la partie tricotée, soit 2 mailles (sur les parties en largeur) soit 2 rangs (sur les parties en hauteur), et crochetez la ms suivantes dans la maille ou dans le rang suivant. Bon crochet!

Béatrice De Flores 15.03.2017 - 18:09:

Bonjour, Habituée à suivre sans problème les explications de vos modèles j'ai commandé le fil nécessaire à se modèle sans me poser de question. Cependant je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment on peut arriver à une fente en faisant des allers retours indistinctement. Faut-il répéter quelque chose en s'arrêtant à la moitié du travail? Les indications ne me semblent pas claires. A l'avance merci.

DROPS Design 16.03.2017 kl. 08:26:

Bonjour Mme De Flores, on tricote en allers et retours au tout début, puis on continue en rond jusqu'à la fin, la partie tricotée en rangs va former la fente d'encolure. Bon tricot!

Gabriele 13.09.2016 - 13:19:

Hallo liebes Drops-team, Mit wie viel Fäden wird die Mütze gehäkelt? Liebe Grüße, Gabriele

DROPS Design 13.09.2016 kl. 14:11:

Liebe Gabrielle, die Mütze ist mit 1 Faden Eskimo mit Häkelnadel Nr 8 (siehe Maschenprobe) gehäkelt.

Inge 19.11.2015 - 20:29:

Hvad betyder m/p under hækling af slids?

DROPS Design 20.11.2015 kl. 10:34:

Hej Inge. m/p = maske/pind

Cinzia 20.01.2015 - 17:53:

Come posso fare questo poncho senza ferri circolari? grazie

DROPS Design 20.01.2015 kl. 18:29:

Buonasera Cinzia, la prima parte del poncho è lavorata avanti e indietro sui ferri, poi viene chiuso e lavorato in tondo. Se preferisce può continuare con i ferri dritti, tenendo conto che per come è strutturato la cucitura risulterà sul davanti. buon lavoro!

Patouche 03.11.2014 - 17:12:

Bonjour, je suis en train de faire ce modèle et je me demande ce que vous entendez en disant pour le bonnet rang 2 "faire une bride dans la 1 ere bride" je l'entends faire 3 ml ? En vous remerciant Cordialement Patouche

DROPS Design 04.11.2014 kl. 09:11:

Bonjour Patouche, en début de tour, on remplace effectivement la 1ère B par 3 ml, les fois suivantes (R3 et 4), on crochète 1 B dans la m suivante. Bon crochet!

Anne Marie Hansen 12.10.2014 - 21:37:

Jeg er ved at strikke str. 4 kan det passe at jeg skal strikke 10 cm glat strik efter udtagninger for at få den rigtige længde ? Jeg har kontrolleret strikkefasthed og den passer.

DROPS Design 22.10.2014 kl. 10:39:

Hej Anne Marie, Du øger på hver 2.pind som der står tidligere i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Angélique 14.07.2014 - 10:20:

Bonjour, Je voulais réaliser le poncho avec le bonnet par contre je n'ai même pas assez d'une pelote de Drops Eskimo pour finir le bonnet, pourtant niveau dimension c'est correct. Vous me confirmez qu'il faut uniquement 50g d'Eskimo pour le bonnet ET le poncho? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 14.07.2014 kl. 11:38:

Bonjour Angélique, il faut 50 g Eskimo pour le poncho (bordures et pompons) ET 50/100 g Eskimo pour le bonnet (cf fournitures bonnet par taille au-dessus des explications du bonnet). Bon tricot et crochet !

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