DROPS 52-8 by DROPS Design

DROPS Sweater in Alaska with raglan sleeves

  • DROPS 52-8 - DROPS Sweater in Alaska with raglan sleeves
  • DROPS 52-8 - DROPS Sweater in Alaska with raglan sleeves
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Sizes:
Women’s Small - Medium - Large
Finished Measurements: 112 - 122 - 126 cm [44" - 48" - 49-7/8"]
Men’s Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Finished Measurements: 122 - 128 cm [48" - 50-3/8"]
Numbers in ( ) are men’s sizes

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
1050 - 1150 - 1250 (1350 - 1500) g col. 02, natural white

DROPS 3.5 mm [US 4] and 5 mm [US 8] circular needles and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 17 sts and 22 rows on larger needle in Pattern 2 = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side. The charts are identical for all sizes.

Body: Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes. Cast on 188-204-212 (204-216) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 5-5-5 (6-6) cm [2" - 2" - 2" (2-3/8" - 2-3/8")] - on the last row inc 44 sts evenly distributed on the row = 232-248-256 (248-260) sts. Change to larger circular needles and beginning at marker establish the pattern as follows: 17-21-23 (21-24) sts of Pattern 2, Pattern 1 (82 sts = center front panel), 17-21-23 (21-24) sts of Pattern 2, place marker, 17-21-23 (21-24) sts of Pattern 2, Pattern 1 (82 sts = center back panel), 17-21-23 (21-24) sts of Pattern 2. When the work measures 33-36-37 (40-44) cm [13" - 14-1/8" - 14.5" (15.75" - 17.25")] bind off 2 sts on each side of each marker for armholes = 112-120-124 (120-126) sts for front and back. Put the work aside.

Sleeves: Cast on 36-40-40 (40-40) on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 5-5-5 (6-6) cm [2" - 2" - 2" (2-3/8" - 2-3/8")] - on the last row inc 24-20-20 (20-20) sts evenly distributed on the row = 60-60-60 (60-60) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 3. Then inc 1 st each side of marker 23-23-25 (25-25) times:
Sizes Women’s S + M: every 4th row
Size Women’s L: alternately every 3rd and 4th row
Men's S/M + M/L: every 4th row
= 106-106-110 (110-110) sts - knit the increased sts into Pattern 2. When the work measures 50-49-48.5 (54-54) cm [19.75" - 19.25" - 19" (21.25" - 21.25")] bind off 2 sts each side of marker and put the work aside = 102-102-106 (106-106) sts.

Body: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as the body where 4 sts have been bound off = 428-444-460 (452-464) sts on needle. Put a marker in each transition between the sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue the pattern but knit the first stitch on either side of the markers in stockinette stitch (= 2 sts stockinette stitch in each transition between body and sleeve). Knit 6-6-6 (4-6) rows then begin raglan shaping.

Raglan shaping:
Read the next section in its entirety before knitting!

There are 8 decreases per row (1 stitch on each side of the 2 sts in stockinette stitch).
Make the decreases as follows:
Before the 2 sts stockinette stitch: Right side: K 2 tog. Wrong side: slip 2 sts, put them back on the left needle twisted (one by one), purl the 2 twisted sts together
After the 2 sts stockinette stitch: Right side: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (psso). Wrong side: purl 2 tog..

Dec 1 st each side of each marker every row 38-40-42 (40-42) times. At the same time, when 6 decreases remain, put the center front 26-30-30 (30-32) sts on a stitch holder for the neck and knit the rest of the work back and forth on the needle. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time. After the last decrease row 88-84-84 (92-86) sts remain and the sweater's measurement up to the shoulder = 60-63-65 (68-72) cm [23-5/8" - 24-3/8" - 25-5/8" (26.75" - 28.25")].

Put sts from the stitch holder back on the needle and pick up 8 sts on either side of the neck shaping = 130-130-130 (138-134) sts on needle.
Change to smaller circular needles, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row, and at the same time dec 30-30-30 (34-28) sts evenly distributed on the row = 100-100-100 (104-106) sts. Knit rib for 9 cm [3.5"], bind off elastically with the rib, fold neck over against the wrong side and sew.

Assembly: Sew together the sts under each arm.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = put 3 sts on cable needle behind work, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = put 1 st on cable needle behind work, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = put 3 sts on cable needle in front of work, P1, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 52-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

country flag Ytske Den Boon wrote:

Het voor- en achterpand heb ik gebreid tot aan de mouwinzet. Voor het breien van de mouwen heb ik patroon M3 nodig. Kunt u mij zeggen waar ik dat kan vinden?

20.03.2022 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ytske,

M.3 is het middelste gedeelte van M.1 en loopt over 60 steken; dit staat bovenaan het telpatroon aangegeven.

21.03.2022 kl. 08:34

country flag KSparks wrote:

Drops 52-8. Size L. I should have 84 stitches after I finish the raglan sleeve decreases and bind offs on either side of the 30 stitches on holder for the neck. What is the breakdown for these 84 stitches - how many for the back, sleeves and front? Note: previous inquiry answer sent with incorrect link.

19.01.2022 - 01:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs KSparks, you will decrease for raglan 8 sts (= 2 on each piece) a total of 42 times on every round; then (when 6 decreases remain) slip the middle 30 sts on a thread for neck on front piece + cast off on each side for neck: 2 sts 2 times + 1 st 1 time = 460 - 42x8 - 30 - (4+1)x2= 84 sts remain. Happy knitting!

19.01.2022 kl. 08:53

country flag Eva wrote:

Maska av: Före de 2 slätst m: Rätan: Sticka 2 rm tills. Avigan: Lyft de kommande 2 m, sätt dem vridna tillbaka på vänster st (en och en), sticka de 2 m vridna aviga tills. Efter de 2 slätst m: Rätan: Lyft 1 m, 1 rm, drag den lyfta m över. Avigan: Sticka 2 am tills. Förstår inte varför aviga står med. Det är ju rundsticka. Jag har inga aviga maskor på stickan vid de 2 släta m där jag ska minska. Hur ska jag göra?

31.07.2021 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Når det gjenstår 6 fellinger felles det til hals foran samtidig med raglanfellingene, du må da strikke frem og tilbake og får vrangmasker. mvh DROPS design

16.08.2021 kl. 10:32

country flag Annick wrote:

Bonjour, jarrive enfin au bout mais il y a des imperfections.Merci pour vos réponses qui m'on aidée.Ce qui a compliqué le travail, c'est que pour atteindre les 30 mailles centrales pour les mettre en attente, j'ai du commencer un autre tour(moitié manches et début devant). j'ai tourné le travail pour travailler à l'envers.C'est pour cela que je me retrouve à faire des torsades sur l'envers. Je ne vois pas comment il aurait fallu faire.

24.07.2021 - 16:24

country flag Annick wrote:

Merci, je comprends mais le problème est qu'au niveau corps, c'est bon(torsades à l'endroit) mais sur les manches, non. C'est sûrement qu'au montage des manches au corps j'aurais dû faire un rang de plus ou de moins avant de tout reprendre sur la même aiguille. Je ne vois pas comment je peux rectifier sinon redéfaire jusqu'au manches. Vous me dites que couper le fil mais çà ne changera rien si je comprends bien.

20.07.2021 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, effectivement, si les torsades ne sont pas sur le même rang pour les manches et sur le dos/le devant, vous pouvez soit défaire l'empiècement pour tout réajuster, soit sauter 1 rang des manches pour rétablir les torsades des manches sur l'endroit , soit continuer en tricotant les torsades des manches sur l'envers (commencez en sens inverse, ex dernière torsade: glissez 1 m devant l'ouvrage, tricotez 3 m env (= torsade) et tricotez la m en attente à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

21.07.2021 kl. 07:44

country flag Annick wrote:

Je viens préciser mon message précédent. Je ne vois pas comment l'on peut tricoter des torsades sur un rang envers.

20.07.2021 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, pour éviter d'avoir vos torsades sur l'envers, attention lors de la mise en attente des mailles de l'encolure pour que les torsades soient toujours à faire sur l'endroit (si vous êtes sur l'envers, pour éviter de défaire, coupez votre fil en fin de rang et reprenez pour que vos torsades soient désormais à faire sur l'endroit, en continuant bien toutes les diminutions/mailles à rabattre comme avant. Bon tricot!

20.07.2021 kl. 15:20

country flag Annick wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour vos explications ainsi que la vidéo. J'ai presque tout compris. Je n'arrive toujours pas à réaliser les 4 mailles torsades. j'ai tout essayé mais ça ne va pas. Dans la video on ne parle que des mailles envers ou endroit que l'on inverse, cela j'ai bien compris. Que dois-je faire, je n'ai plus que ces 6 rangs à faire avant l'encolure. Existe t-il une vidéo spéciale, je ne trouve pas. ça serait dommage que j'abandonne.

20.07.2021 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre de quelles "4 mailles torsades" vous parlez, pouvez-vous nous en dire davantage? Pour l'encolure, quand il reste 6 diminutions à faire, tricotez le tour suivant comme avant en mettant les 26 à 32 m centrales en attente et continuez en rangs à partir de l'encolure en diminuant pour le raglan toujours comme avant, sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, mais en rabattant en même temps pour l'encolure de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

20.07.2021 kl. 15:10

country flag Annick wrote:

Bonjour, j'arrive presque au bout de l'ouvrage et j'espère avoir une dernière question à vous poser: lorsque l'on travaille en aller-retour, je ne vois pas comment je peux faire le rang de torsade sur le rang envers. Comme il reste encore 6 rangs à faire, dois-je faire du jersey? C'est aussi très compliqué de suivre le diagramme quand on tricote le rang envers. En attendant, merci de votre patience

18.07.2021 - 08:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, le diagramme montre toutes les mailles, vues sur l'endroit (sauf indication contraire). Quand on tricote en allers et retours, un rang sur deux sera tricoté sur l'endroit et donc un rang sur deux sera tricoté sur l'envers. Comme le diagramme montre toutes les mailles, vues sur l'endroit, vous devrez le suivre dans le sens opposé sur l'envers, regardez aussi la lecon drops ICI. Bon tricot!

18.07.2021 kl. 21:32

country flag Annick wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse mais je crois que je n'aurais pas dû me lancer dans cet ouvrage. En fait, mes 4 marqueurs sont au milieu de M2, par conséquent loin des premières et dernières mailles du devant et dos qui sont pour le raglan. Merci de me dire si les marqueurs sont bien placés. j'ai envie de persévérer mais si j'ai mal fait ,je vais devoir défaire. Cordialement

09.07.2021 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, vos marqueurs pour le raglan doivent se trouver à la transition de chaque pièce: entre la manche droite et le dos, entre le dos et la manche gauche, entre la manche gauche et le devant et entre le devant et la manche droite. La première et la dernière maille de chaque pièce se tricote en jersey et les autres mailles comme avant, en même temps, vous diminuez tous les tours avant/après les 2 m jersey comme indiqué, puis vous formerez l'encolure devant en continuant à diminuer pour le raglan tous les rangs + en rabattant pour l'encolure au début de chaque rang. Bon tricot!

12.07.2021 kl. 07:06

country flag Annick wrote:

Bonjour, Je reviens vers vous car je rencontre le souci suivant : je tricote le modèle femme, taille M. J'ai tricoté 2 rangs après avoir repris les mailles des manches sur la même aiguille que le dos/devant et je m'aperçois que j'ai 20 mailles de chaque côté des marqueurs. Normalement je devrais avoir 19 mailles côté corps et 21 mailles côté manches puisque j'ai rabattu 2 mailles sur 23 et 2 mailles sur 21. Que dois-faire? Si j'ai fait l'erreur, dois-je rectifier? Merci.

09.07.2021 - 07:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, en L, vous avez maintenant effectivement 21 m de M.2 de chaque côté de M.1, mais la première et la dernière maille du devant et du dos sont pour le raglan, ainsi vous avez: 1 m raglan, 20 m M.2, M.1, 20 m M.2, 1 m raglan, et vous diminuez les 20 m pour le raglan. De même pour les manches: 23 m M.2 - 2 m rabattues = 21 m dont 1 pour le raglan = 20 m soit: 1 m raglan, 20 m M.2, M.3, 20 m M;2, 1 m raglan (= vous avez 2 mailles jersey à chaque raglan). Bon tricot!

09.07.2021 kl. 16:38

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