DROPS 88-17 by DROPS Design

DROPS Cardigan in Alpaca

DROPS 88-17
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-114-124 cm [34-5/8" - 37.75" - 41" - 44-7/8" - 48-7/8"]
Hem: 80-88-96-106-116 cm [31.5" - 34-5/8" - 37.75" - 41.75" - 45-5/8"]

300-350-350-400-450 gr nr 7120, light seafoam

DROPS 3 mm [US 2] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 3.5 mm [US D] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

7 DROPS Silver buttons nr 534


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10x10 cm

Rib: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat * - *.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side. «M.1 = 54 p/v = ca 18 cm» means «Pattern 1 = 54 rows = approx. 18 cm». Arrows on the charts indicate starting points for crocheted edge.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right button band as follows (right side row): K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st), K 1, P 1, P 2 tog, yo, P 2.
On the next row, P the yo.
Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size S: 2, 11, 19, 27, 36, 45 and 53 cm.
Size M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 37, 46 and 55 cm.
Size L: 2, 12, 21, 30, 39, 48 and 57 cm
Size XL: 2, 11, 21, 30, 40, 49 and 59 cm.
Size XXL: 2, 11, 21, 31, 41, 51 and 61 cm.

Body: Cast on 200-218-236-260-284 sts on smaller circular needles. Knit 3 rows reverse stockinette st (1st row = wrong side), then knit rib, keeping 2 sts at each edge in garter st and begin rib with K 1 (as seen from the right side). Make buttonholes on right buttonband – see instructions above.
When the piece measures 3 cm K 2 rows (first row is right side row), keeping the 8 edge sts at each side in rib/garter st as established to finished measurements. Change to larger circular needles and stockinette st (and buttonbands as before).
Put 1 marker 54-58-63-69-75 sts in from each side = 92-102-110-122-134 sts between markers on back. When the piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st at each side of each marker every 5-5-5-7-7 cm a total of 5-5-5-4-4 times = 220-238-256-276-300 sts.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm bind off 10-10-10-12-12 sts at each side for armhole (5-5-5-6-6 sts at each side of each marker) = 92-102-110-118-130 sts on back and 54-58-63-67-73 sts on each front. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 60-60-60-66-66 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. K 1 row, P 1 row and K 1 row, then knit rib. When the piece measures 10 cm K 1 row and P 1 row. Change to larger double-pointed needles and stockinette st.
When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st each side of marker a total of 9-11-14-13-15 times:
Size S: every 12th row
Size M: every 9th row
Sizes L + XL: every 7th row
Size XXL: every 6th row
= 78-82-88-92-96 sts. When the piece measures 46-46-46-45-45 cm bind off 5-5-5-6-6 sts each side of marker = 68-72-78-80-84 sts.
Put sts on a st holder and knit 2nd sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 336-362-392-412-444 sts. Knit 2-2-2-2-6 rows stockinette st (1st row is right side). Put 1 marker in each transition between front, back and sleeve = 4 markers. Then continue in stockinette st over all sts and shape raglan. Dec 1 st each side of each marker on right side rows as follows:
Before markers: K 2 tog.
After markers: slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Make decs:
Size S: every other row 2 times
Size M: every other row 3 times
Size L: every 4 rows 3 times
Size XL: every 4 rows 4 times
Size XXL: every other row 6 times
= 320-338-368-380-396 sts.
After last dec, P 1 wrong side row, decreasing evenly distributed to 316-331-361-376-391 sts (do not dec over buttonbands).
Establish pattern on the next row as follows (right side): 8 edge sts as before, Pattern 1 over the following 300-315-345-360-375 sts and 8 edge sts as before. After last dec there are 136-142-154-160-166 sts on needles – finish Pattern 1. Then K 1 row (right side), decreasing evenly distributed to 94-98-102-106-110 sts.
Neckband: Change to smaller double-pointed needles and knit Pattern 2 (including over buttonbands) – 1st row is the wrong side. Then bind off all sts loosely. Fold neckband in half to wrong side and sew in place – be sure it is not too tight.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve.
Crocheted edge: Crochet 1 row of ch-loops around the neck (see the arrow in Pattern 2 for the row to crochet in), around lower edge of yoke (see the arrow in Pattern 1) and around lower edge of the sleeves (crochet in cast-on row).
Crochet as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 5, skip over 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat * - *. Do not crochet over buttonbands.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = K2 tog, 1 yo
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 88-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Amy wrote:

Thank you for your quick response? I have another question: when the pattern says (on the body section): then work rib with 2 stitches garter stitch and 1 knitted stitch in each side (seen from the right side), what "sides" is being referred to? The two fronts where the button bands are or the sides of the sweater, beneath the armhole?

26.03.2020 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amy, these 2 stitches are here the first and last 2 stitches, in other words work from RS: K2, (K1, P2), repeeat from (to) until 3 sts remain, finish with K1 (rib), K2 (edge sts) (from WS: K2, P1 (K2, P1) until 2 sts remain, K2. Happy knitting!

26.03.2020 kl. 15:37

country flag AMY WALKO wrote:

What does M1=54 p/v=ca 18 cm mean???

26.03.2020 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walko, this means M.1 = diagram called M.1 at the bottom of the page is made of 54 rows and should measure approx. 18 cm. Happy knitting!

26.03.2020 kl. 15:15

Kim wrote:

I’m new to fancy knitting and feeling so lucky to have found this site. Thank you very much for the tutorial accompanying the patterns. I’m confident that my projects will come out looking professional.

13.09.2018 - 18:17

country flag Lana wrote:

Vielen Dank für die Anleitung für den Pulli. Mir fehlt aber die Beschreibung von der Blende. Auf dem Foto sieht es nicht so aus, als ob die Blende in Krausrippe gestrickt wurde. Können Sie bitte erklären, wie das Strickmuster von der Blende ist? Vielen Dank vorab.

14.03.2014 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lana, siehe Kommentar zur Frage von Bettina am 17.03.2012.

17.03.2014 kl. 12:35

country flag Jannie Baggerman wrote:

Goedemiddag Ik had eerder een mail gestuurd. Het patroon klopt helemaal, ik had zelf verkeerd geteld. Stom Het vorige berichtje kan dus vergeten worden. MvG Jannie

15.05.2013 - 12:44

country flag Jannie Baggerman wrote:

Goedemorgen Ik ben bezig met het vest maat L en bij bij het afkanten voor de raglan. Er staan 392 st op de naald, wanneer ik 3 x in elke 4e nld afkant dan houd ik 380 st over. In het patroon staat 368 st over. Zit er misschien ergens een telfout? Graag hoor ik van u. Met vriendelijke groet Jannie

15.05.2013 - 09:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jannie. Goed om te horen dat je eruit bent. Veel breiplezier verder.

16.05.2013 kl. 10:16

country flag Bettina wrote:

Hallo, wird denn die "Blende" von oben bis unten 2 M in Krausrippen, 1 re, 2 li, 1 re und 2 li gestrickt? Wenn ja waäre super wenn das schon oben erwähnt würde und nicht erst nach dem Bündchen. Vielen Dank, Bettina

17.03.2012 - 02:26

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das stimmt und steht so fast am Anfang der Anleitunge (Achtung: die 8 Blendemaschen auf jeder Seite gegen die Mitte vorne wie zuvor bis zum fertigen Mass stricken).

19.03.2012 kl. 09:26

country flag Asbjørg wrote:

Har noen prøvd å strikke rundt i stedet for fram og tilbake? Det går mye fortere og jeg synes også det blir finere.

11.09.2010 - 23:37

country flag Lisa wrote:

If you fill in the English words that are after =. For example pattern says =Knit on right side, purl on wrong. That matches the chart below. If you put those translations next to the symbols, it makes it work.

03.11.2009 - 02:54

country flag Sanne wrote:

Vil lige sige, at jeg er godt i gang med den søde trøje. Ribben på ærmerne strikker jeg i almindelig rib 1 r, 1 vr i stedet for 1 r, 2 vr. Synes det giver et bedre resultat.

01.03.2009 - 16:17

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