DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Aisling Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, cables, Fisherman’s rib on sleeves and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 250-14
DROPS Design: Pattern z-1021
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 6205, light blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 07, light sky blue

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 629: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

BANDS WITH I-CORD:
START OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1, work 5 garter stitches.
END OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Work until there are 7 stitches left on the row, work 5 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
Work like this from both the right and wrong side.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch before/after 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves, marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row after the neck. The other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes are worked with approx. 8-8½-9-7½ -8-8½ cm between each one.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
Stitches are cast on for the neckline, the piece is worked back and forth, increasing stitches on each side until the neckline is finished.
The yoke is worked back and forth top down, with circular needle. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for the body and sleeves, the body continued back and forth while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. Stitches are knitted up for the neck, which is then folded double to the inside and sewn down.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 70-70-70-78-78-78 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
Insert 4 marker-threads without working the stitches; these are used when increasing for raglan. Each marker-thread is inserted between 2 stitches as follows: Count 3 stitches, insert 1 marker-thread, count 20 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker-thread, count 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker-thread, count 20 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker-thread, count 3 stitches.
Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 2 stitches at end of row = 72-72-72-80-80-80 stitches.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit the stitches on the front and back pieces, work A.1 over the 20 stitches on each sleeve and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 marker-threads – read description above (8 stitches increased for raglan and 7 stitches increased in each A.1), cast on 2 stitches at end of row = 96-96-96-104-104-104 stitches.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work the last row in A.1 and purl the other stitches, cast on 2 stitches at end of row = 98-98-98-106-106-106 stitches.
ROW 4 (right side): Knit the stitches on the front and back pieces, work A.2 over A.1 on the sleeves, increase for raglan on each side of all 4 marker-threads (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at end of row = 108-108-108-116-116-116 stitches.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work pattern and stocking stitch as before, cast on 3 stitches at end of row = 111-111-111-119-119-119 stitches.
ROW 6 (right side): Work pattern and stocking stitch as before, increase for raglan on each side of all 4 marker-threads (8 increased stitches), cast on 3 stitches at end of row = 122-122-122-130-130-130 stitches.
ROW 7 (wrong side): Work pattern and stocking stitch as before, cast on 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches at end of row = 132-132-132-144-144-144 stitches.
ROW 8 (right side): Work BAND WITH I-CORD over the first 7 stitches, pattern and stocking stitch as before, increase for raglan on each side of all 4 marker-threads (8 stitches increased), cast on 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches at end of row = 150-150-150-166-166-166 stitches.
ROW 9 (wrong side): Work pattern and stocking stitch as before and BANDS WITH I-CORD (7 stitches) on each side – read description above.

The neckline is now finished and you have increased 4 times for raglan. Work the yoke and BUTTONHOLES – read description above.

YOKE:
Work stocking stitch, A.2 and band stitches, continue increasing for raglan 2 more times (a total of 6 times for raglan, including those on the neckline). Continue increasing for raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side), but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase on the front and back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row, alternately 4 and 8 increased stitches. Increase like this 18-22-26-26-30-30 times on the front and back pieces (9-11-13-13-15-15 times on the sleeves).
Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and the bands increasing for raglan, but now only on the front and back pieces (the sleeve-increases are finished). Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 2-1-0-0-0-4 times (do not increase in sizes L, XL, XXL). A total of 26-29-32-32-36-40 times on the body and 15-17-19-19-21-21 times on the sleeves (including the increases on the neckline).
There are 282-302-322-338-362-378 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and the bands until the piece measures 24-26-29-29-33-36 cm, measured mid-back.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the first 46-49-52-56-60-64 stitches (front piece), place the next 57-61-65-65-69-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-10-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the next 76-82-88-96-104-112 stitches (back piece), place the next 57-61-65-65-69-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-10-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 46-49-52-56-60-64 stitches (front piece).

BODY:
= 188-200-212-232-252-272 stitches. Work stocking stitch and bands as before until the body measures 18-18-17-19-17-16 cm from the division. Work 1 row from the right side and increase 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 224-240-256-280-304-328 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 band stitches. Continue this rib for 10 cm. Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 57-61-65-65-69-69 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-10-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-75-77-83-85 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches.
Work stocking stitch and continue A.2 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-3½-2½-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 6-8-9-10-11-11 times = 55-55-57-57-61-63 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 34-33-32-31-28-25 cm. Knit 1 round and increase 5-5-7-7-7-9 stitches evenly spaced = 60-60-64-64-68-72 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-40-39-36-33 cm from the division.

DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up from the right side, with circular needle size 4 mm, 104 to 120 stitches around the neckline - stitch count must be divisible by 4 – making sure that the raglan-stitches continue as knitted stitches in the rib (seen from the right side).
Work as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 band stitches. Continue this rib back and forth for 5 cm. At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 4 stitches. Continue the rib with 1 garter stitch on each side until the neck measures 10 cm. Cast off a little loosely. Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. Sew the openings on the bands mid-front with small stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
symbols = place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
symbols = knit 1 in stitch below this stitch (= Fisherman’s rib stitch)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on next row to avoid a hole.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Anneli Magnusson wrote:

Om man ska sticka med två olika Garner, hur kan det då i detta mönster vara olika garnåtgång?

25.02.2024 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anneli. Det är olika antal meter per nystan för dessa 2 garn - 167 m per 50 g alpaca, 210 m per 25 g kidsilk så därför blir det olika vikt. Mvh DROPS Design

27.02.2024 - 07:14

country flag Diana Roald wrote:

I am working from the English version and when I got to row 9 of A2 there there is a mistake in the pattern (both English US and UK). For the first cable (row 3 of A2) it says place the cable needle in front. I see now from the Norwegian version that this should have been "place cable needle in back". My question is: Can I leave the first cable left leaning (cable in front") and now do a right leaning on row 9 of A2 (cable in back)? Or do I have to rip out everything back to row 3 of A2?

11.02.2024 - 16:34

country flag Karin wrote:

Flot snoning

19.01.2024 - 05:49