DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Remembering Spring

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with double neck, raglan, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 250-1
DROPS Design: Pattern z-1017
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 07, light sky blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 24 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over before/after each marker-stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs on the front and back pieces – leaving holes. The yarn overs on the sleeves are knitted twisted – no holes. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and into the pattern on the sleeves.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The double neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. The neck is folded to the inside and sewn down. If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 104-108-114-118-122-126 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm (casting on with a larger needle size gives and elastic cast-on edge).
Work stocking stitch in the round for 2½ to 3 cm. Purl 1 round, the neck is later folded along this round. Continue with stocking stitch until the neck measures 6 cm. It will be approx. 3 cm when folded double. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-back), the yoke is measured from here.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round and decrease 10-10-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 94-98-102-106-110-114 stitches.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches (these are used when increasing for raglan) as follows:
Count 13-14-15-16-17-18 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 26-28-30-32-34-36 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 13-14-15-16-17-18 stitches left after the last marker (= half back piece).

On the next round, work PATTERN and increase for RAGLAN – read description above, as follows:
Knit 13-14-15-16-17-18 (= half back piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 1 (first marker sits in this stitch), work A.1, A.2 over the next 12 stitches, work A.3, knit 1 (second marker sits in this stitch) (= sleeve), increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 26-28-30-32-34-36, increase 1 stitch for raglan (= front piece), knit 1 (third marker sits in this stitch), work A.1, A.2 over the next 12 stitches, work A.3, knit 1 (fourth marker sits in this stitch) (= sleeve),increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 13-14-15-16-17-18 (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Continue this pattern but note that the increases are different on the front/back pieces and the sleeves – read INCREASES FOR SLEEVES and INCREASES FOR FRONT/BACK PIECES before continuing!

INCREASES FOR SLEEVES:
On the sleeves you increase 17-20-21-23-24-25 times on each side (including the first increase described above).
The sleeve increases are drawn into diagrams A.1 and A.3. Each time A.1, A.2 and A.3 are finished in height, there is room for 2 more repeats of A.2 between A.1 and A.3. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern on each side of the sleeve are worked in stocking stitch.

INCREASES FOR FRONT/BACK PIECES:
On the front and back pieces, you increase 22-24-26-29-33-36 times (including the first increase described above), as follows:
Increase on each round 0-0-0-0-4-6 times, then every 2nd round 22-24-26-29-29-30 times.

AFTER THE LAST INCREASE:
When all the increases are finished there are 250-274-290-314-338-358 stitches (70-76-82-90-100-108 stitches on the front/back pieces and 55-61-63-67-69-71 stitches on each sleeve (including the marker-stitches on each side of the sleeves).
Continue with pattern and stocking stitch but without further increases. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern on each side of the sleeve are worked in stocking stitch. Work until the yoke measures 19-23-24-26-27-28 cm from the marker.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Knit 35-38-41-45-50-54 (= half back piece), place the next 55-61-63-67-69-71 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), knit 70-76-82-90-100-108 (= front piece), place the next 55-61-63-67-69-71 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), knit the last 35-38-41-45-50-54 stitches (= half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 160-172-188-204-228-248 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch in the round until the body measures 20-18-19-18-19-20 cm from the division. On the next round begin working rib, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 0-4-4-8-8-12 stitches evenly spaced = 160-176-192-212-236-260 stitches, as follows:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember the increases).
When the rib measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm, cast off a little loosely with rib. The jumper measures approx. 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 55-61-63-67-69-71 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 65-71-75-79-83-87 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and continue the pattern in the round. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern under the sleeve are worked in stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-2½-2-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 6-8-9-10-11-12 times = 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 30-27-26-23-23-22 cm from the division.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1). AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 1-1-3-3-5-7 stitches evenly spaced = 54-56-60-62-66-70 stitches.
When the rib measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm, cast off a little loosely with rib. The sleeve measures approx. 33-30-29-27-27-26 cm from the division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.03.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction under divide for body and sleeve.
Updated online: 06.03.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction on 1st round with raglan and pattern on the yoke in all sizes.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted twisted on the next round – no hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted on the next round – leaves a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Susanne wrote:

Stimmt die Angabe bei der ersten Runde mit Muster wirklich - und man nimmt nur bei den glatten Teilen zu (Raglanzunahme), nicht aber bei den Musterteilen (Ärmel)??

09.04.2024 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, ja so stimmt es, die Raglanzunahmen beim Vorder- und Rückenteil genauso stricken, die Raglanzunahmen für die Ärmel sind in A.1 und A.3 gezeichnet, deshalb sind sie nicht in die schriftliche Anleitung beschrieben, da sie in den Diagrammen inbegriffen sind. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

09.04.2024 - 13:02

country flag Minna Avri wrote:

HJÄLP! Jag har stickat A1, A2 (över 12 maskor) och A3 en gång på höjden. Det står att maskorna som inte går jämt ut på sidorna stickas i slätstickning. Nu vet jag inte var jag ska börja med A1. 1. Ska jag sticka slätstickning i 6 maskor och sedan sticka A1 enligt mönstret (4 maskor)? Eller 2. Ska jag börja med A1 direkt efter den markerade maskan och sticka A2 över 24 maskor?

07.04.2024 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Minna, det er samme mønster du strikker hele vejen og når du følger A.1 og A.3 får du nye masker, når du har nok masker til at strikke A.2 en gang til så gør du det. Så længe du ikke har nok masker skal de strikkes i slätstickning

09.04.2024 - 11:05

country flag Heike 1 Windhövel wrote:

Werden die Raglanzunahmen über Umschläge gestrickt? Auf den Fotos sieht das nach einem Lochmuster aus. Oder wie gewohnt aus einer Masche zwei herausstricken?

05.04.2024 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Windhövel, die Umschläge bei den Ärmeln (Raglanzunahmen) werden verschränkt gestrickt damit kein Loch entsteht, die Umschläge beim Vorder- und Rückenteil werden rechts verschränkt gestrickt, damit Löcher entstehen, siehe auch RAGLANZUNAHMEN am Anfang der schriftlichen Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

08.04.2024 - 07:35

country flag Minna Avrin wrote:

Undrar vilka av följande ökningar som ska stickas så att det blir hål respektive inte hål: 1. Före första markerade maskan 2. Efter andra markerade maskan 3. Före tredje markerade maskan 4. Efter fjärde markerade maskan

02.04.2024 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Minna. Når du har strikket en omgang med kast/økninger, skal kastene på neste omgang strikkes slik: Kastene på forstykkene/bakstykke rett - slik at det blir hull. Kastene på ermene strikkes vridd rett – slik at det ikke blir hull. Altså kastet før 1.merke = hull, etter 1. merke = ikke hull. Kastet før 2.merke = ikke hull, etter 2. merke = hull. Kastet før 3.merke = hull, etter 3. merke = ikke hull. Kastet før 4.merke = ikke hull, etter 4. merke = hull. mvh DROPS Design

08.04.2024 - 11:40

country flag Tina wrote:

Lovely pattern! Just finished this sweater and is so light and airy. The raglan lacework was a bit challenging for me as a first time lacework knitter and I could have use some more specific videos/detail on the extra stockingnette stitches at the increase. Overall a great and relatively quick pattern.

25.03.2024 - 12:16

country flag Anne wrote:

Wenn man den Pulli mit Nadel Größe 6 oder 7 strickt, wird er luftiger. Muss man dabei was beachten?

19.03.2024 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, wie immer muss Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, sonnst stimmen die fertigen Maßnahmen nicht - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.03.2024 - 11:30

country flag Nath wrote:

Bonjour. Au premier rang de l’empiètement, il y a une augmentation juste avant la 1ere manche, mais elle n’est pas indiquée juste après la 2eme… est ce une erreur ? Merci de votre retour

19.03.2024 - 09:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nath, les augmentations décrites au 1ret tour de l'empiècement sont celles du dos et du devant: on augmente à la fin du dos avant la maille endroit avec le marqueur, on augmente au début du devant après la maille endroit avec le marqueur, on augmente à la fin du devant avant la maille endroit avec le marqueur et enfin au début du dos après la maille endroit avec le marqueur. Les augmentations des manches figurent dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

19.03.2024 - 11:29

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas vos explications : j ‘ai 19 mailles pour ma manche, on me dit Tricoter A1, A2 au dessus des 12 mailles suivantes, A3, ma maille dans marqueurs… pourriez vous m’expliquer quelles sont les 12 mailles suivantes ????

19.03.2024 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, tricotez les 4 mailles de A.1, tricotez ensuite 2 fois les 6 mailes de A.2 (= 12 mailles) et terminez par les 3 mailes de A.3 = 4+12+3=19 mailles pour la manche. Bon tricot!

19.03.2024 - 11:23

country flag Brigitte Diderich wrote:

Bij de meerderingen in het patroon van de mouw blijft volgens het patroon de mouw bijna de helft in tricotsteek. Maar op de foto wordt het patroon A2 wel over de hele breedte gebreid. Ik eindig nu al met 6 steken tricot in A1 en A3. Met 32 steken op de naald. Als ik nu nog 14 steken moet meederen aan elke kant krijg ik dus veel tricotsteken. Als ik zelf patroon A2 over de hele breedte van de mouw moet breien vind ik dat best wel lastig met de meerderingen erbij zonder patroon….

19.03.2024 - 06:51

country flag Joanna wrote:

Jaki kolor włóczki kid silk będzie pasował do alpaki bordo 3650. Niestety nie mam możliwości obejrzenia włóczki na żywo, a obawiam się kolorów na moim monitorze.

18.03.2024 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, wydaje mi się, że kolor 14 czerwony będzie najlepszym wyborem. Ale to zależy od efektu, który chciałabyś uzyskać. W tej Alpace jest też sporo brązu, może jakiś brąz też by z nią dobrze wyglądał? Musisz popróbować. Na początek kup po jednym motku Kid-Silka w każdym kolorze i zobacz co Ci będzie bardziej pasować. Pozdrawiamy!

19.03.2024 - 13:15