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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Tops
  4. Crop Tops
  5. DROPS
  6. 241
  7. 8

Miss Gardener by DROPS Design

Knitted top/crop-top in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked bottom up in stockinette stitch, with I-cord edges. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: bottom up, round neck, sleeveless, stocking stitch, top

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DROPS 241-8
DROPS Design: Pattern w-885
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2"-34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"
Full length: 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm = 13 3/4"-14 1/2"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color 72, parrot green

NEEDLES:
DROPS SINGLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS SINGLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease inside 6 stitches:
DECREASE 1 STITCH AT BEGINNING OF THE ROW:
Work A.2, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (1 stitch decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES AT BEGINNING OF THE ROW:
Work A.2, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE 1 STITCH AT END OF THE ROW:
Work until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, work A.3 (1 stitch decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES AT END OF THE ROW:
Work until there are 9 stitches left on the row, knit 3 together, work A.3 (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth and bottom up. The piece is sewn together. The I-cord edge and tube-knitted shoulder straps are worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 78-86-94-106-118-130 stitches with needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Paris.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row as follows, from the right side: A.1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches left, knit 2 and work A.1.
Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Work the next row as follows, from the right side: Continue A.1 over the first 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches, knit 62-70-78-82-94-106 and decrease 10-12-12-16-18-20 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.1 as before over the last 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches = 68-74-82-90-100-110 stitches.
Change to needles size 5 MM = US 8. Continue with stockinette stitch and A.1 on each side as before.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm = 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4", and next row should be worked from
the wrong side, work 2 RIDGES – read description above, over the outermost 5-5-5-9-9-9 stitches on each side (the other stitches are worked as before).
After the 2 ridges, bind off 3-3-3-7-7-7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 62-68-76-76-86-96 stitches.
Work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl 2, 1 stitch in garter stitch, purl until there are 5 stitches left, 1 stitch in garter stitch, purl 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch.
Work the next row as follows, from the right side: A.2, decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the row – read DECREASE TIP, knit until there are 8 stitches left, decrease 1 stitch at the end of the row – read DECREASE TIP, work A.3.
Continue this pattern back and forth, decreasing in the same way for the armholes every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 11-11-12-15-13-11 times. Then decrease 2 stitches on each side every 2nd row 3-4-5-3-6-9 times – read DECREASE TIP = 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm = 13 3/4"-14 1/2"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4" from the cast-on edge.
Leave the stitches on the needle and work an I-cord edge along the neck.

I-CORD EDGE:
Cast on 3 stitches with 1 double pointed needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Paris. Purl these 3 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, * knit the first 2 stitches, then knit twisted together the last stitch and the first stitch on the back piece (from the right side), move the worked stitches back onto the left needle *, work from *-* until all the stitches from the back piece are bind off and you have 3 stitches left on the right needle. Bind off with purl from the wrong side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece. Keep the stitches on the needle and work the straps and an I-cord edge along the neck.

SHOULDER STRAPS AND I-CORD EDGE:
Cast on 4 stitches with 1 double pointed needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Paris. Work tube-knitting as follows:
* Push the stitches back to the beginning of the needle, tighten the strand and knit the 4 stitches again from the right side *, work from *-* until the strap measures 7 cm = 2 3/4" (the strap should reach over the shoulder to the back piece; try the top on and work to desired length).
Knit together the last 2 stitches = 3 stitches.
Push the stitches back to the beginning of the needle, tighten but do not cut the strand.
Work an i I-cord edge along the neck as follows: * Knit the first 2 stitches from the strap, knit twisted together the last stitch and the first stitch on the front piece, move the worked stitches back onto the left needle *, work from *-* until all the stitches from the front piece are bind off and you have 3 stitches left on the right needle, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row = 4 stitches. Work tube-knitting over these stitches until the second strap matches the first in length. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitches, tighten and fasten well.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Sew the straps to the back piece, outermost on each side.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.06.2023
BACK PIECE:...When the piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm = 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4" and next row should be worked from the wrong side, work 2 RIDGES – read description above, over the outermost 5-5-5-9-9-9 stitches on each side (the other stitches are worked as before).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 241-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Esther wrote:

Ik denk dat de beschrijving onder "schouderbandjes en punnikrand" niet helemaal klopt?! Er staat "* Brei de eerste 2 steken van het bandje gedraaid recht samen met de laatste steek en de eerste steek op het voorpand". Volgens mij moet dat zijn: Brei de eerste 2 steken van het bandje, brei daarna de laatste steek op de rechter naald met de eerste steek op het voorpand gedraaid recht". Vr.gr., Esther

19.06.2023 - 15:15

country flag Mia wrote:

Hello, thank you for this beautiful pattern. I have knitted the front and back piece and the icord edging. I do not understand how to do the straps. Do I start with the double pointed needle with separate yarn? Do I join the 4 stitches to the neck edge and do an icord strap? I am totally lost. Please help. Thank you, Mia

16.06.2023 - 07:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear MIa, you first work an I-cord for 7 cm then work the I-cord together with the stitches from front piece casting off these stitches as shown in this video (in the video the I-cord is worked over 3 sts, just work as explained in the pattern with the 4 sts, the video shows the technique). .Happy knitting!

16.06.2023 kl. 07:51

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hi, I was wondering for the back piece after the 2 ridges you cast off 3 stitches (size M) do we continue like before following what’s left of the A1 pattern?

08.06.2023 - 16:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, the first row of the 2 ridges should be worked from WS (pattern fixed), then you cast off 3 sts on each side working remaining stitches as before. Happy knitting!

16.06.2023 kl. 15:05

country flag Märta wrote:

Hur ser toppen ut bakifrån?

08.06.2023 - 09:52

country flag Jannie wrote:

Er ribben ikke ret over ret og vrang over vrang?

18.05.2023 - 12:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jannie, ja det stemmer :)

19.05.2023 kl. 10:59

country flag Vionie wrote:

Bonjour ! Merci pour ce beau modèle. Par contre, il est dommage de ne pas voir le dos du crop top dans les photos. Merci pour ce que vous faites.

08.05.2023 - 22:22

country flag Tina wrote:

I diagrammet står det at sort rute = rett fra vrangen, men hvordan strikkes den fra retta?

08.05.2023 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, vrang fra retten :)

09.05.2023 kl. 10:28

country flag Lilianne wrote:

Look beautiful.

04.05.2023 - 23:43

country flag Jade wrote:

Liebes drops team - danke für diese wunderbare anleitung :) ich wollte fragen ob es tendenziell auch möglich wäre den verzierten rand (a1) wegzulassen und diese zum beispiel durch 3 krausmaschen zu ersetzen, damit die seiten etwas „schlichter“ werden? oder ist a1 für die stabilität/halt des tops nötig? liebsten gruß, jade

26.04.2023 - 08:29

country flag Inês Cruz wrote:

Costa Esmeralda top

22.01.2023 - 11:17

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