Snow White Socks by DROPS Design
Knitted socks in DROPS Lima and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch. Sizes 35 – 43 = US 4 1/2 – 12 1/2. Theme: Christmas.
DROPS 234-73
DROPS Design: Pattern li-153
Yarn group B + C
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SIZES:
35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43 = US 4 1/2/6 1/2 – 7 1/2/9 1/2 - 10 1/2/12 1/2
Foot-length: 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 5/8"
Leg height: Approx. 28-30-32 cm = 11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2"
MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250 g color 9025, chalk
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
75-75-100 g color 01, off white
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1) and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern li-153
Yarn group B + C
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43 = US 4 1/2/6 1/2 – 7 1/2/9 1/2 - 10 1/2/12 1/2
Foot-length: 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 5/8"
Leg height: Approx. 28-30-32 cm = 11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2"
MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250 g color 9025, chalk
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
75-75-100 g color 01, off white
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1) and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
INCREASE TIP: (wedge heel):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP-1 (wedge heel):
All decreases are worked from the right side.
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, marker-thread, knit 2 twisted together.
DECREASE TIP-2 (mid-back and toe):
Start 1 stitch before the stitch with the marker, knit/purl 3 together, depending on where you are in the pattern (= 2 stitches decreased).
WEDGE HEEL:
The wedge heel is worked in garter stitch and back and forth. More and more stitches are worked on each row from the right side.
ROW 1 (right side): Start 10-10-11 stitches before the marker-thread, knit until there are 8 stitches left on the row and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left on the row – remember INCREASE TIP, turn.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 7 stitches left on the row – and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 4: Knit until there are 7 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 6 stitches left on the row – and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 6: Knit until there are 6 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 7: Knit until there are 5 stitches left on the row – and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 8: Knit until there are 5 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 9: Knit until there are 4 stitches left on the row - increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 10: Knit until there are 4 stitches left on the row – yarn overs knitted twisted, turn = 30-30-32 stitches on the needle.
Continue like this, but without increasing by the marker-thread, until you have worked back and forth over all stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row, which is used to measure the foot.
Now continue back and forth with garter stitch but turn when there is 1 more stitch left on each row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn.
ROW 3: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 4: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
Continue like this until there are 4 stitches left on each side.
Now decrease on each side of the marker-thread – read DECREASE TIP-1 on each row from the right side until there are 20-20-22 stitches left and the last row was from the wrong side. Knit the next row. Cut the strand.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SOCK ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down.
LEG:
Cast on 56-58-60 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Purl 1 round. Then work 3 rounds of rib (knit 1, purl 1).
Work A.1 (work purl over knit and knit over purl in the rib) – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 1 stitch at the end of the round by working the last 2 stitches together = 55-57-59 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch – allow it to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing at the back.
When the piece measures 8-9-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/2"-4", decrease 2 stitches mid-back – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2½ cm = 1” a total of 8 times = 39-41-43 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 28-30-32 cm = 11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2". Cut the strand and remove the marker.
HEEL AND FOOT:
Keep the first 10-10-11 stitches on the needle, place the next 19-21-21 stitches on 1 thread (top of foot) and keep the last 10-10-11 stitches on the needle = 20-20-22 heel-stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the row and allow it to follow your work onwards – the marker-thread is used for the increases and decreases on heel. Work WEDGE HEEL – read description above.
When the heel is finished, place the 19-21-21 stitches from the thread back on the needle = 39-41-43 stitches. Start the round mid-under the foot – insert 1 marker in the first stitch (this marker should be a different color than the marker on the heel to distinguish them).
Continue A.1 in the round – make sure the pattern continues neatly from the stitches on top of the foot (if you have holes along the heel where you turned, pick up the strand between 2 stitches and work it twisted together with the next stitch on the left needle).
AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker under the foot – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4th round a total of 2-2-1 times = 35-37-41 stitches.
Work until the foot measures 19-21-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9 1/2" from the marker on the heel – measured under the foot.
Try the sock on and work to desired length - approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8" left.
AT THE SAME TIME work the last 2 stitches on the round together = 34-36-40 stitches.
TOE:
Insert 1 marker in each side with 17-18-20 stitches both on top of and underneath the foot. Continue in the round with moss stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 2 stitches on each side – read DECREASE TIP-2.
Decrease like this every 2nd round 1 more time, then every round 2 times = 18-20-24 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 9-10-12 stitches.
Knit 1-0-0, then knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 5-5-6 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The foot measures approx 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 5/8" from the marker on the heel.
Work the other sock in the same way.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
INCREASE TIP: (wedge heel):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP-1 (wedge heel):
All decreases are worked from the right side.
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, marker-thread, knit 2 twisted together.
DECREASE TIP-2 (mid-back and toe):
Start 1 stitch before the stitch with the marker, knit/purl 3 together, depending on where you are in the pattern (= 2 stitches decreased).
WEDGE HEEL:
The wedge heel is worked in garter stitch and back and forth. More and more stitches are worked on each row from the right side.
ROW 1 (right side): Start 10-10-11 stitches before the marker-thread, knit until there are 8 stitches left on the row and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left on the row – remember INCREASE TIP, turn.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 7 stitches left on the row – and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 4: Knit until there are 7 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 6 stitches left on the row – and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 6: Knit until there are 6 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 7: Knit until there are 5 stitches left on the row – and increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 8: Knit until there are 5 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 9: Knit until there are 4 stitches left on the row - increase 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread, turn.
ROW 10: Knit until there are 4 stitches left on the row – yarn overs knitted twisted, turn = 30-30-32 stitches on the needle.
Continue like this, but without increasing by the marker-thread, until you have worked back and forth over all stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row, which is used to measure the foot.
Now continue back and forth with garter stitch but turn when there is 1 more stitch left on each row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn.
ROW 3: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 4: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
Continue like this until there are 4 stitches left on each side.
Now decrease on each side of the marker-thread – read DECREASE TIP-1 on each row from the right side until there are 20-20-22 stitches left and the last row was from the wrong side. Knit the next row. Cut the strand.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
SOCK ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down.
LEG:
Cast on 56-58-60 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Purl 1 round. Then work 3 rounds of rib (knit 1, purl 1).
Work A.1 (work purl over knit and knit over purl in the rib) – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 1 stitch at the end of the round by working the last 2 stitches together = 55-57-59 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch – allow it to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing at the back.
When the piece measures 8-9-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/2"-4", decrease 2 stitches mid-back – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2½ cm = 1” a total of 8 times = 39-41-43 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 28-30-32 cm = 11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2". Cut the strand and remove the marker.
HEEL AND FOOT:
Keep the first 10-10-11 stitches on the needle, place the next 19-21-21 stitches on 1 thread (top of foot) and keep the last 10-10-11 stitches on the needle = 20-20-22 heel-stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the row and allow it to follow your work onwards – the marker-thread is used for the increases and decreases on heel. Work WEDGE HEEL – read description above.
When the heel is finished, place the 19-21-21 stitches from the thread back on the needle = 39-41-43 stitches. Start the round mid-under the foot – insert 1 marker in the first stitch (this marker should be a different color than the marker on the heel to distinguish them).
Continue A.1 in the round – make sure the pattern continues neatly from the stitches on top of the foot (if you have holes along the heel where you turned, pick up the strand between 2 stitches and work it twisted together with the next stitch on the left needle).
AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker under the foot – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4th round a total of 2-2-1 times = 35-37-41 stitches.
Work until the foot measures 19-21-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9 1/2" from the marker on the heel – measured under the foot.
Try the sock on and work to desired length - approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8" left.
AT THE SAME TIME work the last 2 stitches on the round together = 34-36-40 stitches.
TOE:
Insert 1 marker in each side with 17-18-20 stitches both on top of and underneath the foot. Continue in the round with moss stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 2 stitches on each side – read DECREASE TIP-2.
Decrease like this every 2nd round 1 more time, then every round 2 times = 18-20-24 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 9-10-12 stitches.
Knit 1-0-0, then knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 5-5-6 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The foot measures approx 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 5/8" from the marker on the heel.
Work the other sock in the same way.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knit |
|
= purl |
© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 293 catalogs and 10897 patterns - 10893 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Welke instructie video past bij het breien van deze hiel?
10.03.2023 - 07:22DROPS Design answered:
Dag Hetty,
Er is niet specifiek voor deze hiel een video, maar er is wel een video waarin uitgelegd wordt hoe je verkorte toeren in ribbelsteek breit, wat van toepassing is op deze hiel. Deze vindt je bij de video's onderaan het patroon.
12.03.2023 kl. 11:55Für extra warme Füsse! Die Socken sehen sehr flauschig aus. Werden unbedingt nachgearbeitet. Herzlichen Dank für die Inspiration und die Anleitung!
17.12.2022 - 09:15