65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Frosty Apple

Knitted hat/hipster hat in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted bottom up in rib with folding edge.

DROPS 234-47
DROPS design: Pattern ai-406
Yarn group C or A + A

S/M - M/L - L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm = 21¼"/22" – 22"/22¾" – 22¾"/23⅝"

DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100 g color 25, raspberry

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16".
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32".

20 stitches in width and 27 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



You can cast on with Italian cast-on. Work in that case 2 rounds with double knit to give the edge hold. When double knitting, work 2 rounds as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, pass next stitch on to right needle knitwise with yarn in front of stitch *, work from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 2: * Slip first/next stitch on to right needle knitwise with yarn behind stitch, purl 1 *, work from *-* the entire round.

Decrease on each side of 7 stitches rib at every marker as follows:
Work until 5 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 7 stitches in rib as before, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. Repeat decrease at every marker.




Piece is worked in the round on a circular needle bottom up, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

Cast on 102-108-114 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 with DROPS Air - read CAST-ON TIP. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) until piece measures 24 cm = 9½" (approx. 8-9-10 cm = 3⅛"-3½"-4" remain until finished measurements). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Insert 3 markers in piece - insert markers in a purl stitch and move them upwards when working. Insert them so that there are 33-35-37 stitches between every marker.
Then work rib as before AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches at every marker - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this on every other round 8-9-10 times, then decrease on every round 3 times in total = 36 stitches. Decrease now as follows at every marker:
Work until 6 stitches remain until marker, slip 2 stitches as if to knit them together, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, work 7 stitches rib as before. There are 30 stitches on round.
Repeat decrease 1 more time = 24 stitches.
Knit stitches together 2 by 2 the entire round = 12 stitches.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 32-33-34 cm = 12½"-13"-13⅜" in total, fold the 8 bottom cm on hat up to right side.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 234-47

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Magdalena wrote:

Tego tekstu nie rozumiem, jak to jest ? Kiedy większe druty a kiedy mniejsze? treść jest taka sama : PRÓBKA: 20 oczek na szerokość i 27 rzędów na wysokość, dżersejem = 10 x 10 cm. UWAGA! Podany rozmiar drutów jest orientacyjny. Jeżeli masz za dużo oczek na 10 cm, użyj większych drutów. Jeżeli masz za dużo oczek na 10 cm, użyj mniejszych drutów.

11.04.2024 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdo, Jeżeli masz za dużo oczek na 10 cm, użyj większych drutów. Jeżeli masz za MAŁO oczek na 10 cm, użyj mniejszych drutów (już poprawiam pomyłkę). We wzorze jest podana próbka jak powinna wyjść na podanych tam drutach, ale nie zawsze tak jest, ktoś robi ściślej, a ktoś luźniej. Wymiar gotowego ubrania będzie taki jak na schemacie, tylko wtedy gdy próbka będzie zgodna. A więc jeśli na drutach 3,5 otrzymasz np. 18 oczek na 27 rzędów (patrz zawsze na oczka, nie na rzędy; rzędy czyli wysokość próbki jest ważna ale np. w reglanowych swetrach) to musisz zmienić druty na mniejsze i jeszcze raz wykonać próbkę. Pozdrawiamy!

11.04.2024 - 09:30

country flag Mal wrote:

W podtytule błędnie napisano że czapka jest od góry do dołu

10.01.2024 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Witamy, dziękuję za info. Już poprawione. Pozdrawiam!

11.01.2024 - 08:36

country flag Steph wrote:

For the crown decrease, 37 stitches does not go into 114 evenly...am I missing something?

24.10.2023 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Steph, please note that the markers should be inserted in one stitch, so that you will have: 37 sts x 3 + 3 sts with each 1 marker = 114. Happy knitting!

25.10.2023 - 07:57

country flag Joanna wrote:

Hi, in 'italian cast on tip' what do you mean by 'double knitting'? Thanks

17.10.2023 - 19:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joanna, we show in this video how to cast on with italian cast on. The "double knitting" rows are those when you work only every other stitch. (when you work 1 stitch but slip the next st without working it). Happy knitting!

18.10.2023 - 08:16

country flag Carol wrote:

For the start of the decrease, 37 stitches does not go into 114 evenly. The decrease explanation is very confusing. So the marker is in between the decreases?

02.10.2023 - 16:19

country flag Svetlana wrote:

Thanks for the pattern, but I find 102 stiches too much for 55cm head, so I cast on 86 with 3,5mm needles and it is perfect now

22.09.2023 - 09:15

country flag Paeivi wrote:

2.1.23 vastaus saksaksi, että kavennukset tehdään näin: \'se tarkoittaa, että neulot ensin (1 krs lisäyksillä, 1 krs ilman lisäyksiä) x 8-9-10 kertaa yhteensä, sitten neulot (1 krs lisäyksillä, 2 krs ilman lisäyksiä) x 3 kertaa.\' Suomenkielisessä ohjeessa: \'Toista tällaiset kavennukset joka 2.kerros yhteensä 8-9-10 kertaa ja sitten JOKAISELLA kerroksella yhteensä 3 kertaa\', eli ei siis mitään välikerroksia. ???

28.02.2023 - 08:45

DROPS Design answered:

Alkuperäisessä norjankielisessä ohjeessa lisäykset tehdään ensin joka toinen kerros 8-9-10 kertaa ja sitten jokaisella kerroksella (eli ei välikerroksia) 3 kertaa.

02.03.2023 - 18:44

country flag Paeivi M wrote:

Hei, ensin kommentti: US englanninkielisen ohjeen otsikossa sanotaan, että "Piece is knitted top down", mutta tämähän neulotaan alhaalta ylös... Kysymys: Teen pienintä kokoa, jossa on 102 silmukkaa ja aloittamassa kavennuksia. Ohjeen mukaan silmukkamerkit laitetaan 33 silmukan välein, mutta tuo luku ei mene tasan koko kerroksella. Jos 102 silmukkaa jaetaan tasan, tulos on 34 silmukkaa. Eli mitä en nyt ymmärrä tässä?

28.02.2023 - 08:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, merkit kiinnitetään aina nurjaan silmukkaan. Eli merkittyjen silmukoiden väliin jää aina 33 silmukkaa.

02.03.2023 - 18:40

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Hallo, Ich plane diese schöne Mütze zu stricken. Ich bin noch Anfänger und stolpere über folgenden Satz: In dieser Weise in jeder 2. Runde insgesamt 8-9-10 x in der Höhe abnehmen, dann in jeder Runde insgesamt 3 x in der Höhe abnehmen = 36 Maschen. Was bedeutet 10× IN DER HÖHE abnehmen? Irgendwie stehe ich da auf dem Schlauch und würde mich sehr über eine Antwort freuen. Liebe Grüße, Sylvie

30.12.2022 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sylvie, es bedeutet, daß Sie zuerst (1 Runde mit Zunahmen, 1 Runde ohne Zunahmen) x 8-9-10 Mal insgesamt stricken, dann (1 Runde mit Zunahmen, 2 Runden ohne Zunahmen) x 3 Mal stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2023 - 13:19

country flag Nina wrote:

Hej, jag är nu gjort mitt första minskningsvarv och ska göra ett vanligt varv emellan, men maskorna från föregående (minsknings-)varv är inte längre varannan rät/avig. Hur ska jag göra då? Jag testade att köra på med varannan ändå trots att de maskorna under inte matchar vid minskningen, men nu inför nästa varv med minskning så är markören som följer med innan en rät maska (det var en avig maska innan). Jag är nybörjare och skulle behöva ytterligare förklaring! Tack!

28.12.2022 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina, du har minsket de 2 retmasker på hver side af avigmasken og du fortsætter med at strikke ret over ret og avig over avig :)

03.01.2023 - 12:34