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Trail Rider Coat by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé. The piece is worked in the round in a circle. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: asymmetric, circle, circle jacket, collar, jacket, stocking stitch

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DROPS 232-42
DROPS Design: Pattern ab-125
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements (approx.): 91-97-100-103-107-110 cm = 35 3/4"-38 1/4"-39 3/8"-40 1/2"-42"-43 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 0100, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide 		from 5.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 5.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 5.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round in a circle, from mid-back and outwards. Stitches are bind off for the sleeves, then new stitches cast on for the front pieces. The sleeves are worked back and forth, then sewn into the body.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 7 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Alpaca Bouclé. Work as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to the end of the round = 14 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Then work the next round as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to the end of the round = 28 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Insert 1 marker in every 2nd stitch (14 markers). Continue with stockinette stitch and, on the first round, increase by making 1 yarn over after each marker-stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Repeat this increase every 4th round, alternately before and after the marker-stitch (= 14 increased stitches each increase-round). Continue like this until the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" from the middle. There are approx. 168-182-182-196-210-210 stitches (10-11-11-12-13-13 increases at each marker). Now work the armholes as follows: Bind off 30-32-32-36-40-40 stitches (first armhole), work 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches (neck), bind off 30-32-32-36-40-40 stitches (second armhole) and work the remaining stitches (bottom edge = 58-66-64-68-72-70 stitches). On the next round cast on the same number of stitches over the bind-off stitches = 168-182-182-196-210-210 stitches. Remove markers 2, 4, 6 and 8, leaving 10 markers. Continue in the round, increasing as before every 4th round (10 increased stitches each increase-round). Work until the piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm = 18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2" from the middle. Bind off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 38-38-42-42-46-46 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Alpaca Bouclé. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on both sides. When the rib measures 5 cm = 2", change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 10 cm = 4”, with the next row from the right side, increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over inside 2 stitches on each side = 2 stitches increased. The yarn overs are purled twisted on the next row (wrong side), to avoid holes. Increase like this every 3½-3-3½-2½-2½-2 cm = 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1"-1"-3/4" a total of 9-10-9-11-11-14 times = 56-58-60-64-68-74 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 43-42-42-42-42-42 cm = 17"-16 1/2"-16 1/2"-16 1/2"-16 1/2"-16 1/2" bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row as follows: 3 stitches 1 time on each side, then 1 stitch on each side until the piece measures 56-56-56-57-57-58 cm = 22"-22"-22"-22 1/2"-22 1/2"-22 3/4". Bind off the remaining stitches. Work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole and sew the sleeve seams.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 232-42) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag JUAN MANUEL wrote:

En el diagrama los marcadores 2-4-6-8 estarían en la parte superior o inferior?

04.09.2023 - 05:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Juan Manuel, son los marcadores en las sisas, es decir, en la parte superior.

10.09.2023 kl. 20:02

country flag Juan Manuel wrote:

Gracias por compartir sus patrones. Los marcadores que se quitan son del lado del cuello o del lado del talle?

31.08.2023 - 07:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Juan Manuel, tienes que quitar los marcapuntos 2-4-6-8 de los 14 marcapuntos insertados al inicio de la labor, contados desde el comienzo de la vuelta.

03.09.2023 kl. 19:19

country flag Heike wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu den Ärmeln. Nach den Zunahmen und der ersten Abnahme sind 50 Maschen auf der Nadel. Die weiteren anfangen erfolgen wieder im 3,5 cm Abstand? (Bei Annahmen in jeder Reihe ( also 25 Reihen) erreicht man nicht mehr 13 cm...)

05.04.2023 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, die Zunahmen sollen fertig sein, wenn man die Maschen für den Armkugel abkettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.04.2023 kl. 11:20

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Of komt het midden van de mouw in het midden van het afgekante gedeelte voor, zodat het pand naar achteren kanteld ?

26.02.2023 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Je legt de mouw plat dubbel en je legt de cirkel plat neer. De onderarmnaad komt aan de onderkant in de opening op de cirkel en de bovenkant van de mouw komt aan de bovenkant van de opening voor het armsgat.

26.02.2023 kl. 18:52

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Als ik klaar ben en heb afgekant, is er dan een onder of bovenkant aan de cirkel ? ivm met de mouwen die ik ga innaaien ?

26.02.2023 - 11:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Ja, de onderkant is hoger dan de bovenkant. Zie ook de tekening onderaan het patroon. Daar kun je zien dat de mouwen niet in het midden zitten, maar een beetje omhoog.

26.02.2023 kl. 18:51

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Als ik precies doe wat er staat gaat er op ieder mouwgedeelte 1 markeerder weg en op het hals gedeelte van 50 steken 2 , klopt dat ?

14.02.2023 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Heb het uitgeteld en dat zou inderdaad moeten kloppen.

15.02.2023 kl. 20:45

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

En in welke van de steeds vier herhalende naalden kan ik het beste beginnen met het afkanten ? Zelf denk ik in de tweede, de naald nadat inde omslagen heb gebreid ?

14.02.2023 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

In principe kun je op iedere gewenste naald beginnen met afkanten, maar zelf vind ik het inderdaad ook handiger als de omslagen niet in de web zitten, dus 1 of 2 naalden na een naald met omslagen.

19.02.2023 kl. 18:38

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Waar zitten de markeerdraden 2/4/6 en 8 ? Zijn dat va het begin van de toer de eerste 4 ?

14.02.2023 - 08:18

country flag Iris wrote:

Beginne ich die Abnahmen für den 1. Ärmel beim Rundenbeginn und setze die Maschenmarkierer dann wieder bei den neu aufgenommenen Maschen wie vorher ein?

08.01.2023 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Iris, ja genau für den 1. Ärmel ketten Sie die ersten 30-32-32-36-40-40 Maschen der Runde, und Maschenmarkierer wie zuvor bei der nächsten Runde einszetzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.01.2023 kl. 11:21

country flag Verena wrote:

Liebes Team, die Meinungen gehen leider auseinander deshalb suche ich hier Rat. Die Zunahmen heißen "in" jeder 4. Reihe... Besteht der Raport dann aus 3 Reihen??? 1. Reihe mit Zunahme, 2. Reihe Zunahmen verschränkt abstricken, 3. Reihe einmal drüber. 4. Reihe wäre dann wieder die 1. mit der Zuhnahme usw? Ich hoff mein Knoten im Kopf wird entwirrt. LG Verena

02.11.2022 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Verena, so stricken Sie in jeder 4. Runde: *1 Runde mit Zunahmen, 3 Runden ohne Zunahmen (bei der 1. von diesen 3 Runden stricken Sie die Umschläge verschränkt)* und diese 4 Runden so wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.11.2022 kl. 10:57

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