DROPS / 223 / 29

Canyon Spice Top by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Canyon Spice Top / DROPS 223-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Canyon Spice Top / DROPS 223-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Canyon Spice Top / DROPS 223-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Canyon Spice Top / DROPS 223-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Canyon Spice Top / DROPS 223-29 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-315
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-84-92-102-114-126 cm = 29 1/2"-33"-36 1/4"-40"-45"-49 1/2"
Full length: 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 59, red clay

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
2 DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: For straps.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.65 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.65 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.95$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 174 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 17.4.
In this example, decrease by knitting together alternately each 16th and 17th stitch and each 17th and 18th stitch (approx.).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for armholes):
Decrease inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. All decreases are worked from the right side!
AFTER THE 1 EDGE STITCH: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BEFORE THE 1 EDGE STITCH: Start 2 stitches before the edge stitch and knit these 2 stitches together.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and a total of 4 stitches increased on the round).
On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch until there are enough stitches to fit into the pattern.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. Straps are worked on the front piece, which are sewn to the back piece to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 174-196-216-242-270-304 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and Safran. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 1½ = 1/2" to 2 cm = 3/4". When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you decrease 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 164-184-204-228-256-288 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 82-92-102-114-128-144 stitches; allow the threads to follow your work onwards, they are used when increasing in the sides.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 2-2-2-3-0-3 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 over the next 70-80-90-100-120-130 stitches (= 7-8-9-10-12-13 repeats of 10 stitches), work A.2 (= 8 stitches), 4-4-4-6-0-6 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), work A.1 over the next 70-80-90-100-120-130 stitches (= 7-8-9-10-12-13 repeats of 10 stitches), A.2 (= 8 stitches) and finish with 2-2-2-3-0-3 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8", increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-5-5½-5½-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2 1/8"-2 1/8"-2 3/8" a total of 4 times = 180-200-220-244-272-304 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 23-24-25-25-26-27 cm = 9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8" – adjust so the next round is an odd round in A.1 (this is important to avoid working the lace pattern from the wrong side when the back and front pieces are finished separately).
Now work 2 RIDGES – read description above, over the middle 8-10-12-16-20-26 stitches on each side (i.e. 4-5-6-8-10-13 stitches on each side of both marker threads – the other stitches are continued as before).
After the 2 ridges, bind off for the armholes on the next round as follows: Bind off 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches for the armhole, work as before until there are 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches left before the second marker thread, bind off 6-8-10-14-18-24 stitches, work as before until there are 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches left on the round and bind off the last 3-4-5-7-9-12 stitches. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch.
Front and back pieces are finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 84-92-100-108-118-128 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row from the right side, begin to decrease for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease on each side every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 14-16-18-19-21-22 times on each side = 56-60-64-70-76-84 stitches. After the final decrease, work 1 row back from the wrong side as before.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off as follows: Knit 5 and place these 5 stitches on 1 thread for the strap, bind off the next 46-50-54-60-66-74 stitches and knit the last 5 stitches for the strap.

STRAPS:
Change to 2 double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 (with the stitches on one needle and working with the other). * Push the stitches to the beginning of the needle, tighten the strand and knit all stitches from the right side *, work from *-* until the strap measures 16-16-16-18-18-18 cm = 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7"-7"-7". Cut the strand and pull it through the 5 stitches, tighten and fasten well. Place the 5 stitches from the thread onto double pointed needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work in the same way.

BACK PIECE:
= 84-92-100-108-118-128 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, begin to decrease for the armholes on each side every 2nd row a total of 14-16-18-19-21-22 times = 56-60-64-70-76-84 stitches. After the final decrease, work 1 row back from the wrong side as before.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the straps to the back piece on each side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 223-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Nini Tielle 10.08.2021 - 13:21:

Wat is de beste vervanging van de muskat

user icon DROPS Design 18.08.2021 kl. 17:06:

Dag Nini,

DROPS Paris (categorie C) en DROPS Safran (categorie A) zijn beide 100% katoengarens, dus komen wat dat betreft het meest in de buurt. Als je zoekt naar een garen met ongeveer dezelfde stekenverhouding, dan zou je een garen moeten kiezen uit categorie B. Er is geen katoengaren in die categrie, dus dan zou je als eerste op DROPS Cotton Merino komen, een combinatie van katoen en merino,

country flag Sarah 24.07.2021 - 00:04:

Virkelig fin top! Jeg har dog et spørgsmål til opskriften: hvad sker der med diagrammerne, når der bliver taget masker ud? Hvordan skal jeg tælle dem på næste pind?

user icon DROPS Design 05.08.2021 kl. 13:44:

Hej Sarah, mønsteret skal stemme over de masker du startede med, det vil sige at du på mønsterpinden har 8 retmasker imellem hver "2sammen, 1omslag", de nye masker strikkes ind i mønsteret hvis det stemmet med at du har 8 retmasker inden selve mønsteret :)

country flag Diana 19.07.2021 - 05:40:

I’m trying to find measurements in inches for xxxl.

user icon DROPS Design 19.07.2021 kl. 09:19:

Hi Diana, If you click on the language box under the photo and choose USA English, all measurements will be given in inches. Happy crafting!

country flag Catarina Vieira 18.07.2021 - 00:58:

Which way do I read the chart? Isn't it from right to left? Shouldn't the "knit two together" be after the "yarn over"? Thank you!

user icon DROPS Design 18.07.2021 kl. 20:20:

Hello Catarina! Yes, we read charts from right bottom corner to the left. This pattern chart is correct: if you K2tog and AFTER THAT make 1 YO, you will get nice hole. And that is what we want in this pattern :-) Happy knitting!

country flag Diana Carter 17.07.2021 - 22:45:

How do I figure out the inches in bust for xxxl.

country flag Catalina 10.07.2021 - 16:44:

Hola. Quería saber si los tirantes se tejen en punto musgo o en punto jersey. No me ha quedado claro. Gracias

user icon DROPS Design 12.07.2021 kl. 14:02:

Hola Catalina, mira el video AQUI como hacer este tipo de tirante. Buen trabajo!

country flag Agata 19.05.2021 - 09:27:

When will the pattern be available? I’m waiting and waiting!

user icon DROPS Design 21.05.2021 kl. 18:45:

Witaj Agato, jeszcze tylko tydzień :) Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Anastasia 11.05.2021 - 11:35:

It looks so sweet! Can’t wait till i can knit it! ❤️

country flag Annie 26.04.2021 - 19:37:

Bien hâte que ce patron soit disponible !

country flag Esther 11.04.2021 - 10:59:

Es precioso, muy femenino. Con cualquier prenda de vestir o de sport.

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