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Amalfi Blue by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: bottom up, rib, sleeveless, square neck, top

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DROPS 221-14
DROPS design: Pattern e-314
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Measurements on chart show garment stretched, the top is more narrow because of pattern.

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-122-144 cm = 37 3/4"-48"-56 1/2"
Full length: 50-54-58 cm = 19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-250 g color 05, lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for pattern.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 2.05 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.05 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.15$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. NOTE! Stitches in A.2 are always counted as 8 stitches even though stitches in cable alternates between 2 and 3 stitches. Stitches in A.3 are always counted as 12 stitches in S/M and 16 stitches in L/XL and XXL/XXXL. See diagram for your size in A.3.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease inside 7 stitches in each side. Decrease by purling 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then work back piece and front piece separately, back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Straps on front piece are fastened to back piece.

BODY:
Cast on 512-640-768 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with Safran. Work A.1 over all stitches (= 64-80-96 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 256-320-384 stitches on round. Work A.2 over all stitches (= 32-40-48 repetitions of 8 stitches). NOTE! Stitches in A.2 are always counted as 8 stitches even though stitches in cable alternates between 2 and 3 stitches.
Work A.2 in the round – insert at the same time 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= left side when garments is worn), and 1 marker thread after 128-160-192 stitches (= right side when garment is worn). Both marker threads are between 2 knit stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 33-33-35 cm = 13"-13"-13 3/4", work next round as follows (approx. 1 cm = 3/8" remains until decrease for armholes): NOTE! Adjust so that next round worked, is a even round in pattern, this is important so that the cable row is from right side when piece is worked back and forth.
Work in GARTER STITCH over the first 15-15-15 stitches – read explanation above, work pattern as before over the next 98-130-162 stitches, work in garter stitch over the next 30-30-30 stitches, work pattern as before over the next 98-130-162 stitches, and work in garter stitch over the last 15-15-15 stitches. Continue pattern like this until 3 ridges have been worked over stitches in the side.
On next round bind off for armholes, i.e. work next round as follows: Bind off 10-10-10 stitches for armhole, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue pattern as before over the next 98-130-162 stitches, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, cast of 20-20-20 stitches for armhole, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue pattern as before over the next 98-130-162 stitches, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, and bind off the remaining 10-10-10 stitches for armhole. Cut the yarn. Finish back piece and front piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 108-140-172 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row in PATTERN as before with 5 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, in each side.
Continue with A.2 and in garter stitch, at the same time decrease for armhole in each side on every row from right side - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease 17-19-23 times in total in each side = 74-102-126 stitches remain. Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Back piece measures approx. 12-14-16 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" from where piece was divided for front piece and back piece.

FRONT PIECE:
= 108-140-172 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row in pattern as before with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Continue with A.2 and in garter stitch, at the same time decrease for armhole in each side on every row from right side. Decrease 17-19-23 times in total = 74-102-126 stitches remain.
Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Front piece measures approx. 12-14-16 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" from where piece was divided for front piece and back piece. Work next row as follows from right side: Knit the first 12-16-16 stitches and slip them on a stitch holder, bind off the next 50-70-94 stitches, knit the last 12-16-16 stitches on row. Keep the last 12-16-16 stitches on needle, and work strap as explained below.

STRAP:
= 12-16-16 stitches. Work A.3 (= 12-16-16 stitches) - see diagram for your size. Work first row from wrong side: Work pattern back and forth until the strap measures approx. 9-13-13 cm = 3 1/2"-5 1/8"-5 1/8" – try the top on and work to desired length, strap should continue over the shoulder and down to back piece. Bind off. Slip the 12-16-16 stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work the other strap the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten straps to back piece - begin at the edge in each side and fasten with 1 grafting/kitchener stitch in every stitch. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.11.2021
New diagram A.1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, work 2 stitches, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round/row knit yarn over to make a hole
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 221-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Solveig wrote:

På Fellingstips står det: "Det felles innenfor 7 masker i hver side. Fell ved å strikke 2 masker vrang sammen." Men på bildet synes jeg det ser ut til at fellingen er like innenfor de fem kantmaskene og ikke to masker lenger inn i mønsteret?

25.08.2023 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Solveig. Du feller innenfor 7 masker i hver side, fra retten strikkes de 5 første maskene strikkes i riller, mens maske nr. 6. og 7. strikkes 2 masker vrang sammen. mvh DROPS Design

11.09.2023 kl. 11:04

country flag Solveig wrote:

Mønsterforklaring linje 4, det står: "ta 1 maske løs av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes rett, strikk 2 masker, løft den løse masken over masken som ble strikket": Betyr det over den første eller den andre masken som ble strikket etter at masken ble tatt løst av, eller dem begge? (Hvis det siste, så skal det kanskje rettes fra "masken" til "maskene"?)

07.07.2023 - 09:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solveig, tak for info - det fixer vi :)

07.07.2023 kl. 11:05

country flag Andrée Vangi wrote:

Bonjour, avec les aiguilles numéro 3 ,3/5 je n'arrive pas à avoir l'échantillon 10 /10 sinon il faut ajouter 4 mailles en aiguilles 4 c'est pas joli , je ne peu faire ce modèle sinon que me conseillez vous je suis déçue andrée

12.06.2023 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vangi, essayez avec des aiguilles plus petites (3,5 ) mais bloquez votre échantillon (mouillez-le et faites le sécher à plat aux mesures finales) pour voir si cela peut vous aider; sinon, vous devrez adapter ce modèle à votre propre échantillon ou bien rechercher un modèle qui correspond davantage à votre tension. Bon tricot!

12.06.2023 kl. 13:32

country flag Suse wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Design Team. Bei der Teilung in Vorder und Rückenteil habe ich festgestellt, dass ich jeweils 20 Maschen mehr auf der Nadel habe, wenn ich laut Chart in einer geraden Runde abteile. In diesem Fall bearbeite ich ja 9 statt 8 Maschen je Rapport. Danach ging alles prima auf. Grüße und Dankeschön von mir für Eure Mühe.

26.05.2023 - 06:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sue, also die Umschläge von Diagrammen werden nicht als Maschen gezählt, so es kann sein, daß Sie mehr Maschen haben, wenn Sie diese Umschläge mitzählen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.05.2023 kl. 10:16

country flag Charlotte Lomholt wrote:

Mit bærestykke måler nu 33 cm efter jeg har strikket A2 mønsteret, og så står der at det er vigtigt at næste omgang stater med en “lige omgang”. HVad betyder det? Er det 2. Linie i A2 mønsteret eller er det en runde med 8 masker (a2 veksler jo mellem 8 og 9 masker)

21.05.2023 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, ja du skal sørge for at snoningspinden kommer fra retsiden når du deler arbejdet :)

23.05.2023 kl. 11:20

country flag Ave wrote:

Eesti keelses juhendis on viga! Kirjas on ,et "3 kokku (tõsta 1 silmus kudumata parempidi võttega, koo 2 parempidi kokku, tõsta kudumata silmus üle kokkukootud silmuste)" Tegelikult tõstad ühe paremidise võttega, siis kood kaks paremidi ja pärast tõstad selle kudumata üle nende kahe kootud silmuse. Kui on ebaselge, soovitan videost vaadata all!

16.04.2023 - 10:42

country flag Sofia wrote:

Ho notato che molti dei vostri bellissimi modelli sono realizzati con ferri circolari. Io non ho esperienza. Come posso fare il modello con i ferri dritti? Grazie

15.03.2022 - 00:57

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sofia, questo modello è lavorato in tondo. Può lavorarlo in piano con i ferro dritti aggiungendo 1 maglia di vivagno a ogni lato per la cucitura e adattando le spiegazioni alla lavorazione in piano. Buon lavoro!

15.03.2022 kl. 08:51

country flag Sofia wrote:

Ho notato che molti dei vostri bellissimi modelli sono realizzati con ferri circolari. Io non ho esperienza. Come posso fare il modello con i ferri dritti?

15.03.2022 - 00:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sofia, questo modello è lavorato in tondo. Può lavorarlo in piano con i ferro dritti aggiungendo 1 maglia di vivagno a ogni lato per la cucitura e adattando le spiegazioni alla lavorazione in piano. Buon lavoro!

15.03.2022 kl. 08:51

country flag Åsa wrote:

I diagrammet A1 till DROPS 221-14 står det i teckenförklaringen: svart ruta = ingen maska, hoppa över denna rutan. Hur gör man det?

12.03.2022 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Åsa. Den sorte firkanten indikerer på at det ikke er noen maske der. I begynnelsen av A.1 bestod diagrammet av 8 masker, men når du strikker omgang 13 av diagrammet strikker du 2 steder 2 masker sammen, du har minsket til 6 masker (tidligere har du økt med 2 masker slik at maskeantallet har vært det samme). Så på omgang 14 strikker du 1 rett + 4 vrang + 1 rett . På omgang 15 minsker du igjen, slik at du på omgang 16 kun har 4 masker igjen + 2 vrangen + 1 rett. mvh DROPS Design

14.03.2022 kl. 14:19

country flag Roberta Marchini wrote:

Credo ci sia un errore nello schema A1 - la terz'ultima riga dovrebbe avere 6 maglie totali invece di 4

18.08.2021 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Roberta, abbiamo inoltrato la sua segnalazione al settore design: se ci dovessero essere delle correzioni, il modello verrà corretto direttamente online. Buon lavoro!

21.08.2021 kl. 23:26

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.