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Lost in Lavender Cardigan by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket with saddle-shoulders and lace pattern in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
Keywords:
3/4 sleeves, assembly free, jacket, lace, round neck, saddle shoulder, top down, wide sleeves
DROPS 222-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-175
Yarn group A + A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-128-126-138-158 cm = 39 3/8"-42 1/2"-50 3/8"-49 1/2"-54 1/4"-62 1/8"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-225-250-275-325-350 g color 09, light lavender
KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 3 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-175
Yarn group A + A + A
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-128-126-138-158 cm = 39 3/8"-42 1/2"-50 3/8"-49 1/2"-54 1/4"-62 1/8"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-225-250-275-325-350 g color 09, light lavender
KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 3 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN: See diagram A.1.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 11.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 11th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the back loop.
INCREASE TIP-3 (from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and purl in the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and purl in the front loop.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½ 9-8-8½ -8½-9 cm = 3 1/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/8"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-3 1/2" between each one.
INCREASE TIP-4 (sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker under the sleeve. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
KNITTING TIP:
Because the whole garment is worked with 3 strands; in some sizes it will be necessary to use the strand from both the inside and outside of the remaining skein.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The jacket is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then stitches are increased for the sleeves.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. The piece is worked with 3 strands of Kid-Silk – read KNITTING TIP.
NECK:
Cast on 76-76-80-80-84-84 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 3 strands Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows – from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Work this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2"; on the last row increase 6 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 82-82-86-86-90-90 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10.
YOKE:
Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker is inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the saddle-shoulders.
Marker 1: Count 17-17-17-17-17-17 stitches (= front piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 24-24-24-24-24-24 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
There are 17-17-17-17-17-17 stitches left on the front piece after marker 4.
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing.
INCREASE FOR SHOULDERS (back and forth, increasing on each row):
Read the whole section before continuing!
The piece is continued with A.1 on the front pieces (= 2 repeats of 6 stitches in width) and back piece (= 4 repeats of 6 stitches in width) and stockinette stitch over the shoulders/sleeves. The 5 band stitches on each side are worked in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the saddle-shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of stitches on the shoulders remains the same.
On the next row from the wrong side increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3.
In other words you increase on EVERY row, and increase differently on the right and wrong side - to give neat increases.
Continue this pattern and increase in the same way on every row (both from the right and wrong side) a total of 12-12-14-14-16-16 times = 130-130-142-142-154-154 stitches (the increased stitches are worked in A.1). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase, the piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below.
INCREASE FOR SLEEVES:
NOTE! Do not increase in size XXXL, continue with increases for yoke in this size.
SIZES S-M-L-XL-XXL:
Work stockinette stitch and A.1 as before.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row, increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-2
You are only increasing on the sleeves, the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked into stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 5-4-5-4-3 times = 150-146-162-158-166 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 14-12-15-13-13 cm = 5 1/2"-4 3/4"-6"-5 1/8"-5 1/8" from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the yoke as described below.
ALL SIZES:
INCREASES FOR YOKE:
Move each marker so they are inserted in a stitch (not between 2 stitches).
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost sleeve stitches on each side. There are now 20-18-22-18-20-14 stitches between the
marker-stitches on each sleeve.
On the next row from the right side increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after all 4 marker-stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves, and the increased stitches are worked into A.1 on the body and in stockinette stitch on the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 9-12-12-15-16-19 times = 222-242-258-278-294-306 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 26-28-30-33-34-34 cm = 10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/8" from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working, without further increases to the correct length.
On the next row from the right side, divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 38-41-43-46-49-52 stitches (= left front piece), place the next 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 stitches under the sleeve, work 66-72-76-82-88-94 stitches (= back piece), place the next 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 38-41-43-46-49-52 stitches (= right front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately.
BODY:
= 150-162-174-186-202-218 stitches.
Continue the pattern, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and A.1 over the other stitches; the stitches which do not fit into the pattern on each side are worked in stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 19-19-18-17-17-19 cm = 7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2" from the division, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 2 stitches = 152-164-176-188-204-220 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm = 2". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Place the 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm = US 10. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches under the sleeve = 44-48-54-58-62-64 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve; it will be used when increasing under the sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP-4.
Repeat the increase every 3 cm = 1 1/8" a total of 6 times in all sizes = 56-60-66-70-74-76 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 22-21-20-18-18-19 cm = 8 3/4"-8 1/4"-8"-7"-7"-7 1/2" from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 0-0-2-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 56-60-68-72-76-76 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8.
Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures 26-25-24-22-22-23 cm = 10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9 1/2"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
PATTERN: See diagram A.1.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 11.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 11th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the back loop.
INCREASE TIP-3 (from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and purl in the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and purl in the front loop.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½ 9-8-8½ -8½-9 cm = 3 1/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/8"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-3 1/2" between each one.
INCREASE TIP-4 (sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker under the sleeve. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
KNITTING TIP:
Because the whole garment is worked with 3 strands; in some sizes it will be necessary to use the strand from both the inside and outside of the remaining skein.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The jacket is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then stitches are increased for the sleeves.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. The piece is worked with 3 strands of Kid-Silk – read KNITTING TIP.
NECK:
Cast on 76-76-80-80-84-84 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 3 strands Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows – from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Work this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2"; on the last row increase 6 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 82-82-86-86-90-90 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10.
YOKE:
Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker is inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the saddle-shoulders.
Marker 1: Count 17-17-17-17-17-17 stitches (= front piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 24-24-24-24-24-24 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
There are 17-17-17-17-17-17 stitches left on the front piece after marker 4.
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing.
INCREASE FOR SHOULDERS (back and forth, increasing on each row):
Read the whole section before continuing!
The piece is continued with A.1 on the front pieces (= 2 repeats of 6 stitches in width) and back piece (= 4 repeats of 6 stitches in width) and stockinette stitch over the shoulders/sleeves. The 5 band stitches on each side are worked in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the saddle-shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of stitches on the shoulders remains the same.
On the next row from the wrong side increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3.
In other words you increase on EVERY row, and increase differently on the right and wrong side - to give neat increases.
Continue this pattern and increase in the same way on every row (both from the right and wrong side) a total of 12-12-14-14-16-16 times = 130-130-142-142-154-154 stitches (the increased stitches are worked in A.1). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase, the piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below.
INCREASE FOR SLEEVES:
NOTE! Do not increase in size XXXL, continue with increases for yoke in this size.
SIZES S-M-L-XL-XXL:
Work stockinette stitch and A.1 as before.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row, increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-2
You are only increasing on the sleeves, the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked into stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 5-4-5-4-3 times = 150-146-162-158-166 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 14-12-15-13-13 cm = 5 1/2"-4 3/4"-6"-5 1/8"-5 1/8" from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the yoke as described below.
ALL SIZES:
INCREASES FOR YOKE:
Move each marker so they are inserted in a stitch (not between 2 stitches).
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost sleeve stitches on each side. There are now 20-18-22-18-20-14 stitches between the
marker-stitches on each sleeve.
On the next row from the right side increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after all 4 marker-stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves, and the increased stitches are worked into A.1 on the body and in stockinette stitch on the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 9-12-12-15-16-19 times = 222-242-258-278-294-306 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 26-28-30-33-34-34 cm = 10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/8" from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working, without further increases to the correct length.
On the next row from the right side, divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 38-41-43-46-49-52 stitches (= left front piece), place the next 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 stitches under the sleeve, work 66-72-76-82-88-94 stitches (= back piece), place the next 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 38-41-43-46-49-52 stitches (= right front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately.
BODY:
= 150-162-174-186-202-218 stitches.
Continue the pattern, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and A.1 over the other stitches; the stitches which do not fit into the pattern on each side are worked in stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 19-19-18-17-17-19 cm = 7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2" from the division, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 2 stitches = 152-164-176-188-204-220 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm = 2". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Place the 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm = US 10. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches under the sleeve = 44-48-54-58-62-64 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve; it will be used when increasing under the sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP-4.
Repeat the increase every 3 cm = 1 1/8" a total of 6 times in all sizes = 56-60-66-70-74-76 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 22-21-20-18-18-19 cm = 8 3/4"-8 1/4"-8"-7"-7"-7 1/2" from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 0-0-2-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 56-60-68-72-76-76 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8.
Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures 26-25-24-22-22-23 cm = 10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9 1/2"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knitting direction |
|
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
|
= knit 2 together |
|
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
|
= saddle-shoulder increase |
|
= sleeve increase |
|
= yoke increase |
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Bonjour, Pour les augmentations Empiècement et Manches, n'y aurait-il pas inversion ? Augmentations tricotées en A1 pour l'empiècement (dos/devant) et en jersey pour les manches ? L'inverse est indiqué. Merci de votre réponse.
04.12.2023 - 11:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Desbordes, tout à fait, on doit tricoter les augmentations des épaules en suivant A.1 et non en jersey, et celles des manches en jersey et pas en A.1, merci pour l'info, la correction va suivre. Bon tricot!
04.12.2023 - 16:10Extra info ik kom aam 8 cm
10.03.2021 - 07:47Heb ik gedaan,ik kwam in de breedte wel uit, niet in de lengte en hoopte door mijn best te doen iets losser nog te breien het te kunnen oplossen. Wat adviseer je mij? Grotere maat of grotere naald? Vrgr
10.03.2021 - 07:42DROPS Design answered:
Dag Wil,
Als je in de breedte wel uitkomt, maar in de lengte niet, dan blijft het probleem als je een grotere maat kiest, want dan wordt je kledingstuk namelijk veel breder. Wellicht is het een oplossing om een paar naalden zonder meerderingen te breien om tot de juiste lengte van de zadelschouder te komen.
18.03.2021 - 10:54Bij meerderen zadelschouders in xl, kom ik bij het maken van 14 toeren vanaf mijn markeerdraad lang niet aan 9cm. Wat te doen?. Vrgr.
09.03.2021 - 09:22DROPS Design answered:
Dag Wil,
Heb je van te voren een proeflapje gemaakt en de stekenverhouding gecontroleerd? Bij een stekenverhouding van 16 naalden in de hoogte is 10 cm, zouden 14 naalden namelijk ongeveer 9 cm moeten zijn.
09.03.2021 - 20:25Soft Cardigan
08.01.2021 - 01:02Chaqueta de aspecto muy confortable y bonita
07.01.2021 - 23:02