Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, P 1 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 3 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Rambling Man |
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Men's knitted jacket in DROPS Lima, with cable pattern and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS Extra 0-850 |
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KNITTING TIPS: This design is written with button holes on right front edge, if you wish standard button holes for men, you can make the button holes on left front edge. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. NOTE: All edge sts are worked in garter st. PATTERN: See diagram A.1 to A.4, diagrams show all rows in 1 pattern repetition from RS. SHORT ROWS: RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work 1 short row on row 3 of every pattern repetition vertically until finished measurements as follows: On 3rd row in pattern (= RS), work 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts, turn and K back. Then work over all sts on row as before. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work 1 short row on row 2 of every pattern repetition vertically until finished measurements as follows: On 2nd row in pattern (= WS), work 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts, turn and K back. Then work over all sts on row as before. BUTTON HOLES: Cast off for 5 button holes from RS on right band. 1 BUTTON HOLE = cast off 7th and 8th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Cast off for button holes when piece measures: SIZE S: 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm SIZE M: 15, 23, 31, 39 and 47 cm SIZE L: 16, 24, 32, 40 and 48 cm SIZE XL: 17, 25, 33, 41 and 49 cm SIZE XXL: 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm SIZE XXXL: 19, 27, 35, 43 and 51 cm INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 136-156-168-180-196-204 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue to work like this until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P while AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-22-24-26-26-26 sts evenly = 116-134-144-154-170-178 sts. Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4, work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.2 one time in size XXL and XXXL, 26-28-30-32-34-34 sts in A.4, then work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.3 one time in size XXL and XXXL, finish with 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4 and 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue to work like this until piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm. Then cast off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 1 st 4-7-9-8-4-8 times = 104-110-116-118-142-142 sts. Continue with pattern as before until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off the middle 20-22-24-26-28-28 sts for neck and finish each part separately. Cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 40-42-44-44-55-55 sts remain on shoulder. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 83-91-95-99-111-115 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 26-26-26-26-30-30 sts in garter st (= band sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with rib and band sts in garter st until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P over all sts in rib while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-12-13-13 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 71-79-83-87-98-102 sts. Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts, work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.3 one time in size XXL and XXXL, 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4 and 1 edge in garter st. On next row from RS (= 3rd row in pattern) work SHORT ROWS - read explanation above. Continue with pattern and band sts at the front - while AT THE SAME TIME work 1 short row on 3rd row in every pattern repetition vertically until finished measurement. When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm, cast off for BUTTON HOLES on right band - see explanation above! Continue to work until piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm. Then cast off at beg of next row from RS as follows: Cast off the first 25-25-25-25-29-29 sts, insert a marker (this marks where to beg the knit up for collar), work the rest of row. Then cast off for armhole on every row from WS as follows: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 1 st 4-7-9-8-4-8 times = 40-42-44-44-55-55 sts remain on shoulder. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work rib as on right front piece but reversed (i.e. * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*) with 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts in garter st. Continue to work until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P over all sts in rib while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-12-13-13 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 71-79-83-87-98-102 sts. Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4, work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.2 one time in size XXL and XXXL, 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts in garter st. On next row from WS (= 2nd row in pattern) work SHORT ROWS - read explanation above. Continue to work the same way as on right front piece but without button holes. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 74-78-82-86-90-90 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue to work like this until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-14-16-18-18-18 sts evenly = 62-64-66-68-72-72 sts. Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 12-13-14-15-17-17 sts in A.4, work A.1 one time, 12-13-14-15-17-17 sts in A.4, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - Read INCREASE TIP above. NOTE: Work the inc sts in A.4. Repeat inc every 3½-3-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm a total of 14-15-16-17-16-17 times = 90-94-98-102-104-106 sts. Continue until piece measures 54-53-51-50-48-48 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-2-3-3-4-4 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 61-61-60-60-59-59 cm, then cast off 3 sts 2 times in each side. When piece measures approx. 62-62-61-61-60-60 cm, loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew buttons on to left front piece, approx. 2½ cm from last K st in pattern. SHAWL COLLAR: Knit up sts from RS inside 1 edge st on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Start mid front at marker on right front piece as follows: Knit up approx. 60-70 sts up to shoulder, then 30-40 sts along the neck and 60-70 sts down along left front piece until marker = 150-180 sts. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 144-148-156-164-172-180. Then work rib on next row from RS as follows: 1 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 1 st in garter st. Continue like this until collar measures approx. 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 P-sections seen from RS (= back of neck) = 158-162-170-180-188-196 sts. Continue until collar measures approx. 12-12-12-12-14-14 cm, then loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Fasten collar with stitches at the bottom in each side towards band from WS (so that the seam is not visible from RS) – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (261)
Rozalia LaJune wrote:
Thank you for your reply. However, I still don't understand where to work the short rows? Is it in the garter stitch part (26 sts) or in the cable part of the pattern? Is it row 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. or row 2, 24, then 2 again and 24again of the A1/A3 and 3, 6, 9 or 3, 25, 3, 25 (which would be 1st row) A1/A2 patterns?
03.06.2021 - 23:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs LaJune, when you have to work Row2/3 (see previous answer) of the diagram, work the short rows as follwows: from RS (right front)/WS (left front), work the first 26 sts in garter stitch, turn (short row) and work these 26 sts back. Now continue as before. Repeat next time you will work row 2/3 of the diagram. Does this help?
04.06.2021 - 07:09Rozalia LaJune wrote:
The short rows (on Right and Left front). It says for Left short row, "Work 1 short row on row 2 of every pattern repetition vertically" - would it be every 24 rows in A1 (pat I chose). 2 pat rep, in48rows would be 2 short rows on the L front?- "until finished measurements as follows: "- I don't see any measurements. It continues - "On 2nd row in pattern (=WS), work 26 (...) band sts, turn and K back. Then work over all sts on row as before. " Thank you for your help.
02.06.2021 - 23:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs LaJune, you will work short rows every time you will work the row 3 (right front piece) / row 2 (left front piece) of the diagrams A.1/A.3 (right front piece) / diagrams A.1/A.2 (left front piece). Happy knitting!
03.06.2021 - 08:29Patricia wrote:
Hello, the diagram for A4 is missing in the pattern. Could you please send it to me so I can start knitting? Thank you!
26.04.2021 - 00:34DROPS Design answered:
Hi Patricia, The pattern A.4 is to the right of the measurements sketch. Happy knitting!
26.04.2021 - 08:12Rob Monnee wrote:
Goedemiddag,ik heb een vraag : Is het Rambling Man Vest Lima Modelnr. LI-014 ook los te koop.Ik vind dat vest zo mooi. Ik heb maat XL. Alvast vriendelijk bedankt voor uw antwoord. Vriendelijke groeten van Rob Monnee
21.03.2021 - 14:21DROPS Design answered:
Dag Rob,
Via onze website worden de patronen gratis aangeboden. Bij het patroon staat onder de lijst met materialen een knop waarmee je het patroon kunt afdrukken. Het is niet mogelijk om kleding te bestellen.
11.04.2021 - 14:03Britt wrote:
1. Sp. På ermet står det: srart økning når arb måler 6 cm. Er det med vrangborden? 2. Når arb måler 48cm str xxl skal jeg starte felling. 3m 2 ganger osv. Hvor mange m skal det være igjen etter felling av 1m 4 ganger? 3. Så skal jeg felle 2m i hver side til det måler 59 cm? Da er det ikke nok masker igjen til at mønsteret i midten er intakt. Jeg skjønner ikke oppskriften på erme. Håper på raskt svar.
03.03.2021 - 12:06DROPS Design answered:
Hei Britt. 1). Nei. 2). 76 masker. 3). Du må nok felle av litt av sidene i A.1 for at du skal få strikket alle fellingene. mvh DROPS design
10.03.2021 - 13:33Nicole Brandl wrote:
Hallo, ich hätte folgende Frage. Bei den beiden Vorderteil die Blende muss ich die verkürzte Reihe in jeder 3 Reihe oder nur in der 3 Reihe jedes Maschensatzes machen. 🤔🤔. LG Nicole Brandl
09.02.2021 - 09:50DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Brandl, die verkürzten Reihen über die Blende stricken Sie jedesmal, das Sie die 3. Reihe von dem Diagram stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.02.2021 - 14:44Giuseppina Palombo wrote:
Lavorando il ferro di ritorno, dove il diagramma indica diritto devo lavorare un rovescio per ottenere la maglia rasata oppure devo lavorare veramente il diritto ed ottenere il punto legaccio? Grazie.
08.02.2021 - 11:35DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Giuseppina, a quale punto del lavoro fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!
09.02.2021 - 21:52Marine Duflos wrote:
Bonjour, j'aimerais faire ce modèle en taille 4XL, pourriez vous me donner le nombre de mailles de départ a monter pour chaque parties s'il vous plaît? Merci par avance.
06.02.2021 - 17:28DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marine, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, vous pouvez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous conseiller et vous renseigner. Bon tricot!
06.02.2021 - 18:29Inge Janssen wrote:
M.i. klopt patroonbeschtijving niet. Er wordt uitgegaan van 21 x 28st = 10x10cm. Dit gaat op voor breiwerk in tricotsteek. Dit patroon heeft kabels en gerstekorrels. Dan zijn er m.i. meer steken nodig dan in patroon aangegeven. Grootste breedte mouw voor XXL =104st. Dit zou volgens patroontekening ongeveer 50 cm moeten zijn. In werkelijkheid meet de mouw op het breedste deel nog geen 40cm. Heb ik gelijk dat het aanbevolen aantal steken niet klopt? Uithalen?
04.02.2021 - 16:55Deb wrote:
I did as you said: 178 sts - 18 sts for the armhole comes out to 160 sts. The instructions state there should be 142 sts left. Am I reading something wrong?
12.01.2021 - 16:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Deb, 18 sts should be cast off on each side (= at the beginning of both right side and wrond side rows, so that you cast off a total of 36 sts: 178 - 18 -18= 142 sts. Happy knitting!
12.01.2021 - 16:55