DROPS Extra / 0-850

Rambling Man by DROPS Design

Men's knitted jacket in DROPS Lima, with cable pattern and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no LI-014
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Colour no 9010, light grey:
900-950-1050-1150-1250-1350 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm (80 cm) - for rib
DROPS METAL BUTTON NO 542: 5 pieces for all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
KNITTING TIPS: This design is written with button holes on right front edge, if you wish standard button holes for men, you can make the button holes on left front edge.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. NOTE: All edge sts are worked in garter st.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 to A.4, diagrams show all rows in 1 pattern repetition from RS.

SHORT ROWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 1 short row on row 3 of every pattern repetition vertically until finished measurements as follows:
On 3rd row in pattern (= RS), work 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts, turn and K back. Then work over all sts on row as before.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 1 short row on row 2 of every pattern repetition vertically until finished measurements as follows:
On 2nd row in pattern (= WS), work 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts, turn and K back. Then work over all sts on row as before.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for 5 button holes from RS on right band. 1 BUTTON HOLE = cast off 7th and 8th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm
SIZE M: 15, 23, 31, 39 and 47 cm
SIZE L: 16, 24, 32, 40 and 48 cm
SIZE XL: 17, 25, 33, 41 and 49 cm
SIZE XXL: 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm
SIZE XXXL: 19, 27, 35, 43 and 51 cm

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 136-156-168-180-196-204 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue to work like this until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P while AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-22-24-26-26-26 sts evenly = 116-134-144-154-170-178 sts.
Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4, work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.2 one time in size XXL and XXXL, 26-28-30-32-34-34 sts in A.4, then work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.3 one time in size XXL and XXXL, finish with 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4 and 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue to work like this until piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm. Then cast off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 1 st 4-7-9-8-4-8 times = 104-110-116-118-142-142 sts. Continue with pattern as before until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off the middle 20-22-24-26-28-28 sts for neck and finish each part separately. Cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 40-42-44-44-55-55 sts remain on shoulder. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 83-91-95-99-111-115 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 26-26-26-26-30-30 sts in garter st (= band sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with rib and band sts in garter st until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P over all sts in rib while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-12-13-13 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 71-79-83-87-98-102 sts.
Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts, work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.3 one time in size XXL and XXXL, 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4 and 1 edge in garter st. On next row from RS (= 3rd row in pattern) work SHORT ROWS - read explanation above. Continue with pattern and band sts at the front - while AT THE SAME TIME work 1 short row on 3rd row in every pattern repetition vertically until finished measurement.
When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm, cast off for BUTTON HOLES on right band - see explanation above! Continue to work until piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Then cast off at beg of next row from RS as follows: Cast off the first 25-25-25-25-29-29 sts, insert a marker (this marks where to beg the knit up for collar), work the rest of row. Then cast off for armhole on every row from WS as follows: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 1 st 4-7-9-8-4-8 times = 40-42-44-44-55-55 sts remain on shoulder. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work rib as on right front piece but reversed (i.e. * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*) with 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts in garter st. Continue to work until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P over all sts in rib while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-12-13-13 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 71-79-83-87-98-102 sts.
Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 8-16-20-24-20-24 sts in A.4, work A.1 one time in size S - XL, work A.2 one time in size XXL and XXXL, 26-26-26-26-30-30 band sts in garter st. On next row from WS (= 2nd row in pattern) work SHORT ROWS - read explanation above. Continue to work the same way as on right front piece but without button holes.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 74-78-82-86-90-90 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Lima. Work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue to work like this until rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. On last row from WS, P while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-14-16-18-18-18 sts evenly = 62-64-66-68-72-72 sts.
Then switch to needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 12-13-14-15-17-17 sts in A.4, work A.1 one time, 12-13-14-15-17-17 sts in A.4, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - Read INCREASE TIP above. NOTE: Work the inc sts in A.4. Repeat inc every 3½-3-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm a total of 14-15-16-17-16-17 times = 90-94-98-102-104-106 sts. Continue until piece measures 54-53-51-50-48-48 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-2-3-3-4-4 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 61-61-60-60-59-59 cm, then cast off 3 sts 2 times in each side. When piece measures approx. 62-62-61-61-60-60 cm, loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew buttons on to left front piece, approx. 2½ cm from last K st in pattern.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Knit up sts from RS inside 1 edge st on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Start mid front at marker on right front piece as follows: Knit up approx. 60-70 sts up to shoulder, then 30-40 sts along the neck and 60-70 sts down along left front piece until marker = 150-180 sts. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 144-148-156-164-172-180. Then work rib on next row from RS as follows: 1 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 1 st in garter st. Continue like this until collar measures approx. 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 P-sections seen from RS (= back of neck) = 158-162-170-180-188-196 sts. Continue until collar measures approx. 12-12-12-12-14-14 cm, then loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. Fasten collar with stitches at the bottom in each side towards band from WS (so that the seam is not visible from RS) – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, P 1 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-850) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (204)

R Andersson 05.09.2020 - 21:40:

Hej, jeg strikker denne i str L og har regnet ud at når jeg har lukket alle maskerne i ærmegabet ( 26 i hver side) vil jeg have lukket maske i den første snoning! kan det være rigtigt?\r\nMVH Bare glem det- jeg har fundet ud af det så det passer. MVH

DROPS Design 07.09.2020 kl. 13:58:

Hei R. Så fint at du fant ut av det. God Fornøyeløse!

Grace 27.04.2020 - 22:34:

How many yards of yarn is needed for this sweater?

DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 07:32:

Hi Grace, 50 g gives you approx. 109 yards (100m). Happy knitting!

Charlotte 09.04.2020 - 22:41:

Graag hoor ik hoe ik verder moet bij de sjaalkraag nadat ik 14 steken heb gemeerderd. Brri je dat stuk dan 2 rechts 3 averecht?

DROPS Design 13.04.2020 kl. 10:39:

Dag Charlotte,

In de averecht delen waar je steken hebt gemeerderd heb je nu 3 averecht in plaats van 2, dus in dat gedeelte brei je inderdaad 2 recht, 3 averecht.

Amanda 08.04.2020 - 13:15:

I really like this sweater and would like to make a similar one for myself. I thought about making the size small and putting the buttons on the opposite side to change it into a woman's cardigan. But I am a smaller woman and even the small men's size would be much too large for me. Does DROPS have a similar woman's pattern to this? Any suggestions? Thanks.

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 16:43:

Dear Amanda, measure a similar jacket you have and like the shape to the measurements in chart so that you can adjust - you will find all our jackets with cables for women here to inspire you. Happy knitting!

Anke Gerlach 13.03.2020 - 16:45:

In het patroon staat bij het achterpand net na de boord : begin met telpatroon A 4 maar dat is er niet kan het een vergissing zijn?

DROPS Design 22.03.2020 kl. 12:25:

Dag Anke,

Deze staat (een beetje verstopt :) onder de maattekening, zeg maar onder de mouw. Het is een klein telpatroontje voor dubbele gerstekorrel.

Van Damme 04.03.2020 - 15:55:

Bj comment faire après le point mousse et côtés 2/2 pour que le point de fantaisie soit dans le même sens pour le modèle rambling man devant droit merci

DROPS Design 04.03.2020 kl. 16:58:

Bonjour Mme Van Damme, je ne suis pas sûre de bien comprendre votre question, dans cette veste, on rabat les mailles point mousse des bordures des devants, et on continue les torsades comme avant. Tout à la fin, on va relever les mailles du col (le long de la fin des devants et de l'encolure dos) et les tricoter en côtes 2/2 puis les assembler aux mailles point mousse rabattues. Bon tricot!

Deni 16.01.2020 - 15:59:

May I ask how many sts should I have (beside ones in A1)after binding off stitches for sleeve size M?

DROPS Design 17.01.2020 kl. 07:57:

Dear Mrs Deni, the number of remaining stitches after all bind off for sleeve will depend on your tension in height, most important is here the height in cm so that the sleeve has the right length. Happy knitting!

Armelle Follin 07.01.2020 - 16:01:

Bonjour, je termine le modèle LI-014 et je ne comprends pas les augmentations du col châle. Je dois ajouter 16 mailles à raison d'1 maille par section (soit 16 rangs ?), mais comme il s'agit de côtes 2x2, comment faut-il procéder ? Faut-il ajouter la maille au milieu ? Maille endroit ou maille envers, est-ce important ? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 08:09:

Bonjour Mme Follin, vous augmentez le nombre de mailles envers (vues sur l'endroit) des côtes = vous augmentez 16 m sur un seul rang, vous aurez ainsi 16 fois 3 m env, mais les autres mailles seront 2 m end et 2 m env comme avant. Bon tricot!

Amy Kaufman 29.12.2019 - 18:22:

I made the Rambling Man sweater into a knee length coat so I eliminated the ribbing on the sleeves and bottom of the coat. I replaced the ribbing on the sleeve with garter stitch. My question is about the collar. If I wanted to use garter stitch on the shawl part would I follow the same directions in terms of increases and number of stitches? With no other ribbing on the sweater I thought the change might look better. Your thoughts.

DROPS Design 29.12.2019 kl. 20:34:

Dear Amy, what you descrile is posible, but be aware and take it into consideration that while ribbing pulls the stitches in, the garter stitch pushes them apart a little bit, so the collar with garter stitch might sit a bit off, somewhat wavy. Happy Knitting!

Beth Hayes 23.12.2019 - 03:20:

This question concerns men's DROPS Rambling Man 0-850 pattern. I am working on the right front piece. The garter (band) stitches do not lie as flat as the K2 P2 rib, so the bottom of the sweater is uneven. How can I make the two different parts of the bottom of the sweater even? Thanks very much.

DROPS Design 24.12.2019 kl. 17:05:

Dear Bethm try knitting the rows with garter stitch with a different sized needle. Generally, using smaller needles for garter stitch helps with the unevennes. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

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