Pink Peony Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern and short sleeves. Sizes 3-14 years.
DROPS Baby & Children 38-22 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Find your size in the diagrams. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 96 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 19) = 4.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the RIGHT SIDE): BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop. INCREASE TIP-3 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the WRONG SIDE): BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and purl in the back loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and purl in the front loop. BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the neck is finished (transition between neck and yoke). Then work the other 4-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 7-6-6½-6-6-6½ cm between each one. CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid-front and top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then for the sleeves and finally for the yoke. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. NECK: Cast on 96-100-104-104-108-112 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-19-23-23-23-23 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 115-119-127-127-131-135 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch). Change to circular needle size 3 mm. YOKE: Insert a marker after the band at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE! In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. The markers should be of a different colour to the marker on the neck and are used when increasing. Marker 1: Count 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 2: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 3: Count 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 4: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. There are 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches left on the front piece after marker 4. Allow the 4 markers to follow your work onwards. INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS: Read the whole of the next section before continuing! Continue working 5 band stitches on each side, A.2 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.3 over the next 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.4 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches. A.1 shows 1 repeat of the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows: Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of sleeve stitches remains the same. On the next row from the wrong side increase for the shoulders as follows: Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3. The increases are different on the right and wrong sides, so the stitches lie neatly. Continue the pattern and increase like this every row (i.e. both from the right and wrong side) a total of 12-16-20-22-24-26 times = 163-183-207-215-227-239 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The increased stitches are worked into A.1, make sure that A.1 fits over the stitches from A.2, A.3 and A.4. After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below. INCREASES FOR SLEEVES: Continue with stocking stitch, pattern as before and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, increase 4 stitches as follows: Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4. You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 13-17-15-16-18-19 times = 215-251-267-279-299-315 stitches. The piece measures approx. 12-16-15-17-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. INCREASES FOR YOKE: Now increase 1 stitch on each side of all 4 markers as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 1 and 3, increase 1 stitch before the marker, work 1 stitch, move the marker to the right needle and increase 1 stitch after the marker. Work to markers 2 and 4, increase 1 stitch before the marker, move the marker to the right needle, work 1 stitch and increase 1 stitch after the marker (= 8 stitches increased). You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves. The increased stitches are worked into A.1 on the back/front pieces and in stocking stitch on the sleeves. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 5-2-2-1-0-0 times = 255-267-283-287-299-315 stitches. When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 15-17-17-18-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to the correct length. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work the first 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (front piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work 71-75-81-83-87-93 stitches (= back piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work the last 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. BODY: = 167-175-187-195-203-215 stitches. Work A.1 back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side; the stitches which do not fit into A.1 in the sides are worked in stocking stitch. Continue working until the piece measures 12-12-15-16-17-17 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 row from the right side, where you increase 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches evenly spaced = 203-211-223-235-247-259 stitches. NOTE: You increase stitches here to prevent the rib being tight. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 34-36-40-42-44-46 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. Continue working until the sleeve measures 5-6-10-13-15-17 cm from the division, There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced = 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 9-10-14-17-19-21 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (33)
Louise wrote:
Bonjour à vous, j’aimerais comprendre le point fantaisie avec les augmentations…je n’arrive pas à suivre le modèle pour avoir les mailles ajourées aux bons endroits…pouvez-vous me donner un exemple en utilisant la grandeur 5/6 ans…Merci à l’avance!
30.03.2024 - 22:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Louise, tricotez simplement les augmentations en jersey jusqu'à ce que vous ayez suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter un motif du point ajouré (vous devez toujours avoir 1 jeté pour 1 diminution dans le point ajouré pour que le nombre de mailles tombe juste). Quand vous augmentez au début du point ajouré, tricotez les nouvelles mailles en lisant le diagramme 1 m en plus à droite, à la fin du point ajouré, tricotez les nouvelles mailles en lisant le diagramme 1 m en plus à gauche et pour le dos, 1 m en plus de chaque côté. Bon tricot!
02.04.2024 - 14:37Marjo wrote:
De knoopsgaten iomenbop het rechter voorpand en dat is dus aan het begin van de naald, niet aan het eind zoals in het patroon staat
01.02.2024 - 21:12Candier wrote:
Bonjour, je ne comprend pas vos explications pour monter les augmentations en même temps des épaules et du dos . Pourtant ce n'est pas d’aujourd'hui que je tricote. Mais la je capte pas Cordialement
21.07.2023 - 15:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Candier, on va d'abord augmenter pour les épaules: 1 maille pour chaque devant et 2 mailles pour le dos (4 m au total à chaque fois) - cf cette vidéo, puis on va augmenter pour les manches: 2 m pour chaque manche (4 m au total); et enfin pour l'empiècement: 1 m pour chaque devant et 2 m pour chaque manche et pour le dos. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!
28.07.2023 - 08:41Raile wrote:
Tõlkimisel on segamini läinud enne ja pärast terminid varruka kasvatamisel: KASVATUSED VARRUKAL: Jätka parempidises koes ja mustriga, tee 5 nööbiliistusilmust mõlemal küljel ripskoes. SAMAL AJAL kasvata järgmisel töö parempoolsel real 4 silmust järgmiselt: kasvata 1 silmus ENNE 1. ja 3. silmusemärkijat ning PÄRAST 2. ja 4. silmusemärkijat. Silmuste arv esi- ja seljaosal jääb samaks, silmuste arv kasvab varrukatel
03.06.2023 - 05:47Estela wrote:
Hermoso!!!! Muchas gracias!!!! Me pareció excelente la explicación ....lo intentaré....gracias!!!!!!!!
19.07.2022 - 15:17Undine wrote:
Es ist wirklich nicht verständlich, wie mit den nicht in A1 passenden Maschen unter den Armen verfahren werden soll. Sie haben nun 2x dieselbe Antwort gegeben, aber es wird nicht klar. Geben Sie doch bitte ein Beispiel für die verbleibenden, rechts zu strickenden Maschen anhand der kleinsten Größe. Werden die Rapporte dort einfach mit weniger rechten Zwischenmaschen gestrickt oder mit mehr rechten Maschen? Bitte genauer erklären.
05.04.2022 - 17:34DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Undine, A.1 stricken Sie wie zuvor bei den beiden Vorderteile und bei dem Rückenteil aber unter den Armen stricken Sie einfach nur glatt rechts. Das Lochmuster muss in der Höhe und in der Breite wie zuvor gestrickt werden, aber am Übergang zwischen Vorderteil und Rückenteil haben Sie kein Lochmuster, nur glatt rechts. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.04.2022 - 07:49Judith wrote:
Hi, I'm not sure if there's a mistake or not, but after the first increase, somehow I am missing 10 stitches. If the borders don't count, instead of 115 st, shouldn't I consider just 105 st when putting the markers? Thank you
15.11.2021 - 14:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Judith, you are working the first size, correct? You cast on 96 sts and after neck edge you increased 19 sts = 115 sts. Now place markers: 23 sts (front piece), marker, 16 sts (sleeve), marker, 37 sts (back piece), marker, 16 sts (sleeve), marker, 23 sts (front piece) = 23+16+37+16+23= 115 sts. Can this help? Happy knitting!
16.11.2021 - 08:17Christine Corbett wrote:
The increased stitches are worked into A.1, make sure that A.1 fits over the stitches from A.2, A.3 and A.4. Can you explain this to me please. on the 3rd row of increases for shoulders I have 8 extra stitches.
02.11.2021 - 20:24Lelletta wrote:
Buonasera! In verità nei suggerimenti viene spiegato solo per gli aumenti -1...Eventualmente correggete! Buon lavoro a voi!
14.09.2021 - 12:14DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lelletta, nei suggerimenti per gli aumenti -1 gli aumenti sono dei gettati, nei suggerimenti per gli aumenti-2 e -3 viene indicato se il filo sollevato va lavorato a diritto o rovescio e se a ritorto o normale. Buon lavoro!
14.09.2021 - 22:09Lelletta wrote:
Vi ringrazio per la velocità della risposta,siete eccezionali!Ho bisogno di un'informazione ulteriore...quando sollevo il filo per gli aumenti devo lavorarlo a diritto ritorto? Altrimenti rimane un buco!O sbaglio? Grazie ancora e buona giornata!
11.09.2021 - 09:55DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lelletta, nei suggerimenti per gli aumenti viene indicato per ogni tipo di aumento se va lavorato normale o ritorto. Buon lavoro!
11.09.2021 - 22:50