Flower (pink) No. 616
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#pinkpeonycardigan
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-025-bn
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
Flower (pink) No. 616
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole | |
= knitting direction | |
= increase for saddle-shoulder | |
= increase for sleeve | |
= increase for yoke |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Pink Peony Cardigan |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern and short sleeves. Sizes 3-14 years.
DROPS Baby & Children 38-22 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Find your size in the diagrams. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 96 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 19) = 4.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the RIGHT SIDE): BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop. INCREASE TIP-3 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the WRONG SIDE): BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and purl in the back loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and purl in the front loop. BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the neck is finished (transition between neck and yoke). Then work the other 4-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 7-6-6½-6-6-6½ cm between each one. CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid-front and top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then for the sleeves and finally for the yoke. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. NECK: Cast on 96-100-104-104-108-112 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-19-23-23-23-23 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 115-119-127-127-131-135 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch). Change to circular needle size 3 mm. YOKE: Insert a marker after the band at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE! In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. The markers should be of a different colour to the marker on the neck and are used when increasing. Marker 1: Count 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 2: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 3: Count 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 4: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. There are 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches left on the front piece after marker 4. Allow the 4 markers to follow your work onwards. INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS: Read the whole of the next section before continuing! Continue working 5 band stitches on each side, A.2 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.3 over the next 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.4 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches. A.1 shows 1 repeat of the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows: Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of sleeve stitches remains the same. On the next row from the wrong side increase for the shoulders as follows: Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3. The increases are different on the right and wrong sides, so the stitches lie neatly. Continue the pattern and increase like this every row (i.e. both from the right and wrong side) a total of 12-16-20-22-24-26 times = 163-183-207-215-227-239 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The increased stitches are worked into A.1, make sure that A.1 fits over the stitches from A.2, A.3 and A.4. After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below. INCREASES FOR SLEEVES: Continue with stocking stitch, pattern as before and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, increase 4 stitches as follows: Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4. You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 13-17-15-16-18-19 times = 215-251-267-279-299-315 stitches. The piece measures approx. 12-16-15-17-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. INCREASES FOR YOKE: Now increase 1 stitch on each side of all 4 markers as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 1 and 3, increase 1 stitch before the marker, work 1 stitch, move the marker to the right needle and increase 1 stitch after the marker. Work to markers 2 and 4, increase 1 stitch before the marker, move the marker to the right needle, work 1 stitch and increase 1 stitch after the marker (= 8 stitches increased). You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves. The increased stitches are worked into A.1 on the back/front pieces and in stocking stitch on the sleeves. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 5-2-2-1-0-0 times = 255-267-283-287-299-315 stitches. When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 15-17-17-18-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to the correct length. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work the first 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (front piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work 71-75-81-83-87-93 stitches (= back piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work the last 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. BODY: = 167-175-187-195-203-215 stitches. Work A.1 back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side; the stitches which do not fit into A.1 in the sides are worked in stocking stitch. Continue working until the piece measures 12-12-15-16-17-17 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 row from the right side, where you increase 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches evenly spaced = 203-211-223-235-247-259 stitches. NOTE: You increase stitches here to prevent the rib being tight. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 34-36-40-42-44-46 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. Continue working until the sleeve measures 5-6-10-13-15-17 cm from the division, There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced = 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 9-10-14-17-19-21 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11629 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (34)
Kay Ack wrote:
Hello. Is there an adult version of this cardigan? Thanks
13.08.2024 - 07:56DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Ack, yes we do, you will find it here. Happy knitting!
13.08.2024 - 09:01Dorothy Neufeld wrote:
Hi i am knitting the 4th size and want to make a longer sleeve. Could I get some directions when to decrease stiches to make it into a long sleeve??
16.06.2024 - 04:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Dorothy, please understand, that with many thousands of patterns on our site, we cannot modify them to each individual request. Havng said that, since the slee is knitted on the round, without decreases until the ribbing, I would just knit them longer, and maybe decrease a stitch at the middle of the undersleeve (on bot sides) every 4th or sixth row a couple of times, to bring it closer to the wrist. Happy Knitting!
16.06.2024 - 07:58Jacqueline wrote:
Est-ce que je dois faire les augmentations épaules manches empiècement dos et devant tous en même temps sur le même rang
15.06.2024 - 00:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Jacqueline, vous augmentez d'abord pour les épaules (le nombre de mailles des devants et du dos seulement), puis vous augmentez pour les manches (le nombre de mailles des manches seulement) puis pour l'empiècement (le nombre de mailles des manches + des devants + du dos). Bon tricot!
17.06.2024 - 09:05Halina wrote:
Wykonuję sweter o rozmiarze 7/8. Po dodaniu 23 oczek i rozmieszczeniu 4 markerów przystępuję do wykonania na prawej stronie robótki ściegu fantazyjnego według schematu A2 w następujący sposób: 7 oczek prawych , 2 oczka razem, narzut, 3 oczka prawe, narzut, 2 oczka razem , 7 oczek prawych, dodaję 1 oczko przed markerem 1, 1 oczko prawe. kończąc sekwencję, na prawym drucie mam 19 oczek a nie 18 oczek. Dlaczego
05.06.2024 - 12:02DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Halino, gdzieś musiało zagubić się 1 oczko. W okrążeniu z dodawaniem oczek na reglan, nie licząc tych oczek, powinnaś mieć 127 oczek: 5 o. (obszycie przodu) + A.2 (18 o.) + dżersej (22 o.) + A.3 (37 o.) + dżersej (22 o.) + A.4 (18 o.) +5 o.. Razem z dodanymi oczkami na reglan będzie 135 o. Pozdrawiamy!
05.06.2024 - 15:23Halina wrote:
Wykonuję sweter o rozmiarze 7/8. Po dodaniu na prawej stronie robótki 23 oczek, pozostaje na drucie 127 oczek. Po umieszczeniu markera za obszyciem przodu oraz umieszczeniem 4 markerów między oczkami , na drucie , za czwartym markerem pozostaje mi 22 oczka , a nie 23 oczka. Z góry dziękuję za wyjaśnienie, gdzie popełniam błąd. Halina
04.06.2024 - 08:27DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Halino, 1-szy marker, który znajduje się za pierwszym oczkiem nie jest tu liczony, on jest tylko do pomiarów długości. Traktuj jakby go nie było. I teraz odliczamy od początku robótki: 23+22+37+22+23=127. Pozdrawiamy!
04.06.2024 - 18:28Susanna Päivinen wrote:
Hej, Jag undrar hur stora knappar är det tänkt att använda till mönster Pink Peony Cardigan?
28.05.2024 - 18:43DROPS Design answered:
Hei Susanna. Til denne jakken er det brukt DROPS perlemorsknapp nr. 616. Under GARN & PINNER og KNAPPER finner du oversikt over størrelsen knappene har. DROPS perlemorsknapp nr. 616 har en diameter på 15 mm. mvh DROPS Design
03.06.2024 - 08:33Hetty Stok wrote:
Further on from previous question. After sleeve increases the length for size 7/8 is 15 cms according to pattern. Then 2 times increases for yoke = 4 rows, but now the pattern says the measurement from marker on neck should be 17cms. How does 4 rows make 2cms in length? I am an average tension knitter. Something is wrong!
21.05.2024 - 15:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Stok, just continue without increasing until piece measures 17 cm for this size, so that you will be sure to get correct measurement. Happy knitting!
21.05.2024 - 16:06Debbie wrote:
So after reading forward I notice it is correct to have 117 from band to band. You should mention that if you include the band stitches the total stitches will be as stated.
04.05.2024 - 20:25Debbie wrote:
I am making the 3rd size. It says I need 127 stitches between band markers but I keep ending up with 117 when I follow the increase in tip1 . Am I reading the pattern correctly?
04.05.2024 - 16:04DROPS Design answered:
Dear Debbi, In the advice you have an EXAMPLE on how to calculate the increases. In the case of this particular sweter and the 3d size you start with 104 stitches, if you take out the button band stitches (5x2), you will have 94 stitches. If you divide this with the 23 stitches you need to increase, you get 4,08. So, you need to increase every 4th sitches, (94:4= 23,5 stitches increase, just make sure you place the increases so you increase 23 stitches and forget/leave out that "half stitch". Happy Knitting.
04.05.2024 - 20:05Veronique wrote:
Bonjour je me demande si il n'y a pas une erreur dans le nombre de mailles entre la taille 3 4 ans et la taille 5 6 ans les écarts semblent énormes pouvez vous m'éclairer svp merci
17.04.2024 - 09:38DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Véronique, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre de quel écarts vous parlez, mais vous pouvez retrouver toutes les mesures pour chaque taille dans le schéma - retrouvez ici comment lire le schéma des mesures. Bon tricot!
17.04.2024 - 11:17