DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

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Golden Blossom

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace edge on yoke and ¾ sleeves in "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 170-29
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-012
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 04, dandelion

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans bottom up lace round neck sewn in sleeves

UK
Ireland

DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec on each side of marker in each side on body as follows:
Beg 6 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 8 (marker is between these 8 K sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Inc 1 st on each side of the middle 4 sts under sleeve as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker mid under sleeve, make 1 YO, work 4 sts in stocking st and make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 sts inc).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = cast off third and fourth st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:

SIZE S: 28, 35, 41 and 48 cm
SIZE M: 28, 35, 43 and 50 cm
SIZE L: 29, 37, 44 and 52 cm
SIZE XL: 30, 37, 45 and 52 cm
SIZE XXL: 31, 39, 46 and 54 cm
SIZE XXXL: 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm
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BODY:
The piece is worked back and forth from mid front on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 282-309-327-354-408-426 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Belle. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in GARTER ST- see explanation above, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 7 sts remain on row (= 30-33-35-38-44-46 repetitions of 9 sts), work 2 sts in stocking st and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically = 252-276-292-316-364-380 sts remain on needle. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 the same way - NOTE: On last row in A.2 dec in addition 13-8-8-3-5-5 sts evenly (dec in P-sections and do not dec over bands) = 209-235-249-275-315-329 sts on needle. After A.2 switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 54-62-64-72-82-84 sts in from each side = 101-111-121-131-151-161 sts between markers on back piece. Then work in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION.
When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP(= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4-4-4-4½-5-5 cm a total of 5 times in each side = 189-215-229-255-295-309 sts.
When piece measures 28-28-29-30-31-32 cm, dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME work next row as follows from RS:
SIZE S + L + XXXL:
5 band sts as before, P 2, K 3, work pattern according to diagram A.3A over the next 30-40-60 sts (= 3-4-6 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.3B (= 7 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker in the side is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.3A over the next 80-100-140 sts (= 8-10-14 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.3B (= 7 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.3A over the next 30-40-60 sts, work A.3B (= 7 sts), K 3, P 2 and 5 band sts as before. When A.3A/A.3B have been worked 1 time vertically, 172-208-280 sts remain on needle.
SIZE M + XL + XXL:
5 band sts as before, K 3, work pattern according to diagram A.3A over the next 40-50-60 sts (= 4-5-6 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.3B (= 7 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker in the side is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.3A over the next 90-110-130 sts (= 9-11-13 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.3B (= 7 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.3A over the next 40-50-60 sts, work A.3B (= 7 sts), K 3 and 5 band sts as before. When A.3A/A.3B have been worked 1 time vertically, 195-231-267 sts remain on needle.

Continue to work pattern as follows (1st row = RS):
SIZE S + L + XXXL:
5 band sts as before, P 2, K 3, work pattern according to diagram A.4 over the next 27-36-54 sts (= 3-4-6 repetitions of 9 sts), work A.5 (= 6 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker in the side is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.4 over the next 72-90-126 sts (= 8-10-14 repetitions of 9 sts), work A.5 (= 6 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.4 over the next 27-36-54 sts, work A.5 (= 6 sts), K 3, P 2 and 5 band sts as before. Continue pattern like this.
SIZE M + XL + XXL:
5 band sts as before, K 3, work pattern according to diagram A.4 over the next 36-45-54 sts (= 4-5-6 repetitions of 9 sts), work A.5 (= 6 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker in the side is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.4 over the next 81-99-117 sts (= 9-11-13 repetitions of 9 sts), work A.5 (= 6 sts), 4 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), work A.4 over the next 36-45-54 sts, work A.5 (= 6 sts), K 3 and 5 band sts as before. Continue pattern like this.

When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off the middle 4-6-6-8-10-12 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 2-3-3-4-5-6 sts on each side of both markers). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-85-94-101-117-124 sts. Continue with the pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-5 times and then 1 st 1-2-4-5-7-8 times = 76-77-78-79-87-88 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cast off the middle 32-33-34-35-35-36 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue pattern as before and cast off 1 st on beg on next row from neck = 21-21-21-21-25-25 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards the neck until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm and loosely cast off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 43-49-51-57-65-66 sts. Continue pattern as before and cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 42-45-43-46-50-48 sts. Work until piece measures approx. 48-50-52-52-54-56 cm (1-2 rows should be worked after last buttonhole on band). Now slip the outermost 12-15-13-16-16-14 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 21-21-21-21-25-25 sts remain on shoulder. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards the neck until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm and loosely cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 43-49-51-57-65-66 sts. Work as right but reversed - NOTE: Do not dec for buttonholes on left band.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 72-72-81-81-90-90 sts on double pointed needle size 3.5 mm with Belle. K 1 round. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 8-8-9-9-10-10 repetitions of 9 sts). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 64-64-72-72-80-80 sts on needle. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 the same way - NOTE: On last round in A.2 dec in addition 0-0-3-1-6-4 sts evenly (dec in P-sections) = 56-56-60-62-64-66 sts. After A.2 switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and work in stocking st in the round. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc a total of 6-9-9-11-13-15 times. In size S: On every 14th round, in size M: On every 8th round, in size L: Alternately on every 7th and 8th round, in size XL: On every 6th round, in size XXL: Alternately on every 4th and 5th round and size XXXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round = 68-74-78-84-90-96 sts. When piece measures 35-34-33-32-30-29 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap), cast off the middle 4-6-6-8-10-12 sts under sleeve and finish sleeve back and forth on needle. Continue with stocking st and cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 1 st 2-2-4-5-8-10 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 41-41-42-42-42-42 cm. Cast off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows and loosely cast off the remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx. 42-42-43-43-43-43 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up around the neck from RS inside 1 edge st approx. 98 to 112 sts (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 3 rows and then loosely cast off with K from RS.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= 1 YO between 2 sts
	= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
	= no stitch, skip this square
	= P 2 tog

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Jennifer Douglas wrote:

I would like to make this pattern as a sweater instead of a cardigan. Is there a pattern already published for this or something similar with the patterned top section?

20.05.2019 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Douglas, there is no matching sweater to this cardigan, you can find all our knitted cardigans here - use the filters to sort them. Happy knitting!

21.05.2019 - 09:36

Monica Forss wrote:

Jag skulle vilja veta storlekarna i cm. Kan inte hitta info om detta!

03.02.2019 - 19:12

Hei Monica. Nederst på siden finner du en målskisse med alle plaggets mål i alle størrelser. Alle mål er oppgitt i cm (viddemål gjelder fra side til side, ikke rundt). God fornøyelse

08.02.2019 - 13:05

Please can you tell me the number of stitches remaining once all the decreases have been done for the sleeve cap. The instructions say "loosely cast off the remaining stitches" but does not give a number. I have tried to work this out and based on XL size and gauge of 28 rows to 10cm, I have 32 stitches left. Can you confirm this please. It is rather annoying as throughout the rest of the pattern you give a stitch count, which is really helpful.

24.08.2018 - 15:45

Dear Jennifer, We will take into consideration your feedback in giving the number of remaining stitches for future patterns. For this particular pattern, if your gauge is correct, then, most likely, you have the correct number of remaining stitches. Happy Knitting,

30.08.2018 - 12:49

Pleae can you explain the inceases in sizes. At the bust the total difference From M to L is 6cm, but from L to XL it is 12 cm. from XL to XXL it is 16cm. As I am a 48 cm bust, the L is a bit small but the XL is much too big. There is a similar jump at the hem. Which size will be best?

26.07.2018 - 19:52

Dear Mrs Douglas, compare these measurements to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size - if you like the bust part to be somewhat fitter, use the smaller size (L) and if you rather get a somewhate looser bust part, use the larger size (XL). Happy knitting!

27.07.2018 - 09:47

Karin Borup Aagaard wrote:

Jeg kan ikke forstå der skal bruges så mange masker som der står i opskriften. Strikkefasthed, målskema og antal masker kan jeg ikke få til at passe.hjælp tak.

05.06.2018 - 18:51

Hej Karin, jo det stemmer, det er fordi kanten består af en masse små snoninger som trækker arbejdet sammen. Du ser at når du har strikket de første diagrammer og skal fortsætte i glatstrik, så har du ikke så stort antal masker. God fornøjelse!

06.06.2018 - 15:20

Jeg kan ikke forstå der skal slås så mange masker op. Maskeantal stemmer ikke overens med målene på målskema og strikkefasthed. 20 masker = 10 cm så 354 masker bliver godtnok en stor trøje.

05.06.2018 - 18:49

Lydia wrote:

Ich bin nun wirklich (noch) keine sonderlich erfahrene Strickerin und war erst skeptisch, ob ich diese Jacke wohl stricken könnte. Nun ist sie fast fertig - und sieht wundervoll aus! Gestrickt habe ich sie aus Cotton light in der Farbe hell eisblau - ein ganz zartes Blau mit einem leichten Grünstich. VIELEN Dank für die tolle Anleitung!!!

10.07.2017 - 21:02

Marije Van Hattum wrote:

Kan ik de mouwen in plaats van met losse naalden ook met een rondbreinaald breien? En zo ja, welke maat en lengte van de rondbreinaald heb ik dan nodig? Ik kan nl. totaal niet overweg met al die naalden. Met vriendelijke groet.

13.06.2016 - 09:47

Hoi Marije. Je kan ook de mouwen breien met een rondbreinaald. Gebruik een korte (40 cm) of brei met de magic loop techniek. Kijk hier:

13.06.2016 - 13:52

Sorry, maar weer een vraag, en ik wil zo graag door! Ik brei voor maat L. Bij begin achterpand staat 'kant aan begin elke naald aan elke kant af: 2 keer 2 steken en dan 4 keer 1 steek = 78 steken. Dat zijn in totaal 8 steken. Dat heb ik gedaan, en houd 86 steken over. Volgens het patroon hoor ik echter 78 steken over te houden. Hoe kan dit?

26.05.2016 - 10:21

Hoi Marije. Je hebt dus 94 st, dan kant je 2 keer 2 st af aan beide zijkanten = 8 st en vervolgens 4 keer 1 st = 8 st = in totaal 16 st = 78 st over

26.05.2016 - 15:33

Cathy Van Beek wrote:

Bij het opmeten van het patroon zou ik de borstmaat van XL te krap zijn (106 cm), maar de maat van XXL is veel te ruim (122 cm). Ik zit er tussenin met 112 cm. Hoe kan ik dat het beste oplossen?

25.05.2016 - 12:44

Hoi Cathy. Ik zou het aanpassen met hulp van de stekenverhouding. Je weet ongeveer hoeveel st je hebt per 10 cm en hoe groot je hem wilt hebben. Je moet dan ook zorgen dat de patronen erbij passen.

26.05.2016 - 16:19