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Clown Around by DROPS Design

Knitted socks with stripes in 2 strands DROPS Fabel. Sizes 35 – 43 = 5 – 10 1/2.

Keywords: socks, stocking stitch, stripes

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DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-454
Yarn group A + A or C
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Sizes:
US: 5/6 1/2 – 71/2/9 – 9 1/2/10 1/2
EU: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g color 113, ruby red
50-50-50 g color 110, rust
50-50-50 g color 108, royal blue
50-50-50 g color 111, mustard
50-50-50 g color 102, pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 		from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns 		Order
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns 		Order
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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STRIPES SOCK 1:
LEG:
Work 4-5-6 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8” with ruby red
Work 10-10-13 cm = 4”-4”-5 1/8” with mustard
Work 2-2-3 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8” with royal blue
Work the heel with pink
After the HEEL:
Work 4-5-6 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8” with royal blue
Work 2-2-2 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4” with ruby red
Work 12-13-14 cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2” with rust
Work the toe with pink.

STRIPES SOCK 2:
LEG:
Work 4-5-6 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8” with rust
Work 10-10-13 cm = 4”-4”-5 1/8” with pink
Work 2-2-3 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8” with ruby red
Work the heel with mustard
After the HEEL:
Work 4-5-6 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8” with ruby red
Work 2-2-2 cm= 3/4”-3/4”-3/4” with rust
Work 12-13-14 cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2” with royal blue
Work the toe with mustard.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 5-6-6 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 5-6-6 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 4-5-5 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 4-5-5 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
Continue to decrease like this, working until there is 1 stitch less each time before slipping a stitch and until there are 10-10-12 stitches left on the needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work 2 socks with different stripes. When working with 2 strands use the strand from both the inside and outside of the ball.The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles and 2 strands Fabel.

SOCK:
Cast on 44-48-52 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and 2 strands ruby red. Work STRIPES SOCK 1 – see description above. Knit 2 rounds. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue with rib (knit 2 / purl 2) until the piece measures 4-5-6 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8”. Insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round (= mid back). Continue with stockinette stitch (change to 2 strands mustard). Then decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size 35/37 = 5/6 1/2”: When the piece measures 11 cm = 4 3/8” decrease 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker thread.
Size 38/40 = 7 1/2/9: When the piece measures 8 and 14 cm = 3 1/8” and 5 1/2” decrease 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker thread.
Size 41/43 = 9 1/2/10 1/2: When the piece measures 10 and 17 cm = 4” and 6 3/4” decrease 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker thread = 42-44-48 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 16-17½ -21½ cm = 6 1/4”-6 7/8”-8 1/2”. Now keep the first 9-10-11 stitches on the needles, place the next 24-24-26 stitches on 1 thread (= top of foot) and keep the last 9-10-11 stitches on the needles = 18-20-22 stitches for the heel. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm = 2”-2 1/8”-2 3/8”. Insert 1 marker thread; the piece is now measured from here.
Then decrease for the heel – see HEEL DECREASE. After the heel decrease knit up 10-11-11 stitches on each side of the heel and place the 24-24-26 stitches from the thread back on the needles = 54-56-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the 24-24-26 stitches on top of foot. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease at each marker thread every 2nd round 8-8-8 times as follows: Knit twisted together the last 2 stitches before the first marker thread and knit together the first 2 stitches after the second marker thread = 38-40-44 stitches. Work until the piece measures 18-20-22 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4” from the marker thread on the heel (= 4-4-5 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2” left). Now insert 1 marker thread on each side of the piece, with 19-20-22 stitches both on top of and under the foot. Then decrease for the toe on each side of both marker threads. Before the marker thread; knit 2 together. After the marker thread: knit 2 twisted together. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 5-5-6 times and then every round 2-2-2 times = 10-12-12 stitches left on the needles. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

Work the other sock in the same way but cast on with rust and work STRIPES SOCK 2.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 209-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Nancy Dann wrote:

The clown around pattern, in my opinion, is poorly written. I am an experienced pattern reader. The area of the heel should have stated to pick up stitches along the length of the heel gusset. I wasted alot of time trying to figure out that gusset, only to finally discover on your posted video that you are using the traditional method of knitting the heel. However, I did find a good pattern to knit some double stranded wool socks. Thank you.

01.01.2021 - 22:41

country flag Anne Juul wrote:

Der skulle selvfølgelig stå jeg forstår ikke......

28.09.2020 - 08:19

country flag Anne Juul wrote:

Jeg forstår følgende: når arbejdet måler 10 og 17 cm, tages der ind. Hvorfor er der to mål for samme størrelse?

28.09.2020 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne. Det skal tas inn 2 ganger. Første gang når arbidet måler 10 cm og 2. gang når arbeidet måler 17 cm. God Fornøyelse!

28.09.2020 kl. 17:04

country flag Nele Harak wrote:

Tere! Koon oma elu esimesi sokke :) On kirjas, et pärast kanna kahandusi jääb ringile 60 silma. Paigaldada 1 silmusemärkija mõlemale küljele, nii et jalapealsel ja talla all on 24-24-26 silmust.  Ma teen kõige suurem suurust. 26+26 teeb kokku ju 52 silma. Ilmselt trükiviga. Aga kumma jaoks rohkem peaks jätma, kas kannale või jalapealsele? Või ikka see 60 silma võrdselt ära jagada, ehk siis 30 ja 30 silma? Tervitades, Nele

20.04.2020 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Nele! Tänan teatamast, viga parandatud! Head kudumist!

24.04.2020 kl. 17:58

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