Sleepy Santa Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with Santa for children in DROPS Air or Nepal. Sizes 2 – 12 years. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-018-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
2 – 3/4 – 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 – 11/12 years
92 – 98/104 – 110/116 – 122/128 – 134/140 – 146/152 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 04, medium grey
(You will need an extra 50-50-50-50-50-50 g of colour 04 medium grey if you do not work the santa on the back)
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 25, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 02, wheat
A left-over of colour 06, black – for eyes

Or use:
DROPS Nepal from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 0501, grey
(You will need an extra 50-50-50-50-50-50 g of colour 0501 grey if you do not work the santa on the back)
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 3608, deep red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0206, light beige
A left-over of colour 8903 black – for eyes

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 70 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 12) = 5.8. In this example, decrease by working together approx. each 5th and 6th stitch.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1/A.3 and A.2 (A.2 applies only to sizes 7/8 – 9/10 – 11/12 years).
To avoid long strand-lengths at the back of the piece when working pattern work with 3 balls; i.e. work with 1 ball of grey on each side of Santa and 1 ball of each colour in the middle of the jumper (i.e. A.1/A.3). To avoid holes when changing colour, twist the strands together. When A.1 has been completed continue with medium grey over all stitches to finished length.

RAGLAN:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows at the beginning of the row: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows at the end of the row: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch after the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work until there is 1 stitch left on the round, make 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle. The pieces are worked separately, bottom up. The sleeves are worked bottom up and in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the armholes, then finished back and forth. First a loose piece is worked for the hat and is later combined with the front/back pieces on the last row of the pattern; it hangs outside the jumper. The jumper is worked in DROPS Air or DROPS Nepal.

HAT (loose piece):
Cast on 3 stitches with needle size 5.5 mm and raspberry Air or deep red Nepal.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit 1, Knit 2 in each of the last 2 stitches (= 2 stitches increased)
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Knit 2 in first stitch (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
ROW 4 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 in each of the last 2 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
Repeat rows 3 - 4 six more times, then repeat row 3 one time = 12 stitches on the row.
Knit 2 rows, last row = wrong side (when this loose piece is worked together with the front piece, work from the right side). Lay to one side and work the front piece. If you would like a hat on the back piece work 2 hats.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 70-74-78-82-86-90 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 58-62-66-68-72-76 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work stocking stitch (edge stitches on each side worked in garter stitch on every row) for 1-1-4-4-6-8 cm (the piece measures approx 5-5-8-8-10-12 cm from the edge).
Now work stocking stitch (edge stitches in garter stitch) and pattern in the different sizes as follows from the right side REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!:

SIZES 2 – 3/4 – 5/6 years:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 6-8-10 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 44 stitches) – read PATTERN, work 6-8-10 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

SIZES 7/8 – 9/10 – 11/12 years:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 11-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 44 stitches) – read PATTERN, work 11-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the piece measures 11-16-20 cm work pattern A.1 over pattern A.2.

ALL SIZES:
When the piece measures 20-23-26-29-32-35 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side, cast off 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 54-58-62-62-66-70 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch, A.1 (only in the smallest sizes) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side decrease for RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease for raglan every other row (meaning each row from the right side) a total of 13-14-15-16-17-18 times – AT THE SAME TIME when 2 decreases are left for raglan (piece measures approx. 31-35-39-42-47-52 cm mid front), put the middle 22-24-26-24-26-28 stitches on 1 thread for neck and each shoulder are worked separately.
Left shoulder – start from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, decrease for raglan as before, knit 2 stitches together, turn work. Purl from the wrong side, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn work. 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, decrease for raglan, turn and cast off stitches by purling.
Work right shoulder from the right as follows: knit 2 stitches together, decrease for raglan, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn work and work 1 stitch in garter stitch, purl from the wrong side, turn work. Decrease for raglan, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn work and cast off stitches by purling.

BACK PIECE (with Santa):
Cast on 70-74-78-82-86-90 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 58-62-66-68-72-76 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work stocking stitch (edge stitches on each side worked in garter stitch on every row) for 1-1-4-4-6-8 cm (the piece measures a total of 5-5-8-8-10-12 cm from the edge).
Now work stocking stitch (edge stitches in garter stitch) and pattern in the different sizes as follows from the right side:

SIZES 2 – 3/4 – 5/6 years:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 6-8-10 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3 (= 44 stitches) – read PATTERN, work 6-8-10 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.

SIZES 7/8 – 9/10 – 11/12 years:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 11-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 44 stitches) – read PATTERN, work 11-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the piece measures 11-16-20 cm, work pattern A.3 over pattern A.2. Continue this pattern.

ALL SIZES:
When the piece measures 20-23-26-29-32-35 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side, cast off 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 54-58-62-62-66-70 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch, A.3 (only in the smallest sizes) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side decrease to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 13-14-15-16-17-18 times. When all the decreases to raglan are finished there are 28-30-32-30-32-34 stitches on the needle, cast off.

BACK PIECE (without Santa):
Cast on 70-74-78-82-86-90 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 58-62-66-68-72-76 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 20-23-26-29-32-35 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side, cast off 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 54-58-62-62-66-70 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side decrease to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 13-14-15-16-17-18 times.
When all decreases to raglan are finished there are 28-30-32-30-32-34 stitches on the row, cast off.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 1/ purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – remember DECREASE TIP = 26-28-28-30-30-32 stitches. Then continue with stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6 cm, increase 2 stitches mid-under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2½-3½-3½-4-5-5½ cm a total of 6-6-7-7-7-7 times = 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. When the piece measures 22-26-30-34-38-42 cm, cast off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches mid-under sleeve (cast off 1-1-1-2-2-2 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 36-38-40-40-40-42 stitches.
Then work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 13-14-15-16-17-18 times.
When all decreases to raglan are finished there are 10-10-10-8-6-6 stitches on the row, cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the raglan-seams top down to mid-under sleeve – sew inside the 1 edge stitch.
Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 67-71-75-68-68-72 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) using short circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Knit 1 round where you decrease evenly to 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 2 cm. Change to raspberry Air or deep red Nepal and work rib in the round for 1 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm from the shoulder down.

POM POM (for hat):
Make a pom pom with off-white of approx. 5-6 cm in diameter; leave 2 strands to fasten the pom pom with. Fasten the pom pom to the end of the loose hat on the front piece.

BEARD:
1 fringe= 1 strand of 45 cm using off-white. Cut 18 fringes.
Each fringe is fastened above the purled stitch on the neck of the Santa. Fold the fringe double, thread the loop around the stitch, then thread the strand-ends through the loop and tighten. Fasten a similar fringe in each of the 17 remaining stitches over the purled stitch. Then tie a loose knot using all the strands; tie the knot approx. in the middle of the strands. Trim the beard to the required length.

MOUSTACHE:
1 fringe= 1 strand of 7 cm using off-white. Cut 8 fringes.
Fold the fringes double and thread the loop around a stitch beneath a purled stitch on the face of Santa, then thread the strand-ends through the loop and tighten.
Fasten a similar fringe beneath each of the purled stitches. Trim the moustache to the required length.

EYES:
Using a left-over of black, sew grafting stitches over 3 stitches and sew 1 stitch across the next stitch towards the middle.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with medium grey/grey
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with off-white
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side with off-white
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with wheat/light beige
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with raspberry/deep red
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side with raspberry/deep red
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side with wheat/light beige
= on this row (= from right side) work the loose hat together with the front/back piece
= lay the loose hat (= 12 stitches) over these 12 stitches, * knit together 1 stitch from the hat and 1 stitch from the garment using raspberry/deep red (= 1 stitch) *, work from *-* a total of 12 times.



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 32-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Nati Retana 25.11.2020 - 11:55:

Buenos días, yo todos los años le hago un jersey de Navidad a mi nieto y nieta. Este año no hay patrón nuevo de jersey de Navidad? Gracias.

DROPS Design 25.11.2020 kl. 16:13:

Hola Nati, este año no hay patrón nuevo de jersey de Navidad. Puedes hacer otros que estan en nuestra pagina AQUI. Buen trabajo!

Marimar 16.11.2020 - 16:22:

Bonjour, J'adore vos modèles. . ! Je suis toujours impatiente pour le kal de noël ..y en aura t il un cette année ? Merci

DROPS Design 17.11.2020 kl. 11:08:

Bonjour et merci beaucoup pour votre message, cette année, nous n'aurons pas de kal de Noël, peut-être l'an prochain? Bon tricot!

Tikva 03.11.2020 - 08:01:

Ich möchte den Pullover in einer Männergröße stricken. Kann man auch dafür bitte eine Anleitung schreiben, in welcher auch die Größe des Santa an die Breite und Höhe des männlichen Pulli angepasst ist? Denn wenn ich jetzt die Größe des Santa von dem Kinderpulli übernehme, verliert sich dieser auf dem Männerpulli..

DROPS Design 03.11.2020 kl. 09:09:

Liebe Tikva, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Gerne können Sie sich von ähnlichen Modelle in die richtige Grösse inspirieren lassen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tina Gade Hansen 29.09.2020 - 17:05:

Kan det virkelig passe med maskeantal? Til str 3-4 år 62 m. Det giver næsten 40 cm i bredden, når strikkefasthed overholdes. Jeg kender ingen så store børn

DROPS Design 30.09.2020 kl. 07:43:

Hej Tina. Ja det stämmer, du ser alla mått längst ner på måttskissen i de olika storlekarna. Mvh DROPS Design

Jessica Rangel 14.09.2020 - 08:19:

Is there a way we can purchase sweaters?

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 09:46:

Dear Mrs Rangel, we only provide the free patterns for the sweaters, you can ask our DROPS stores or ask a knitter in our DROPS Worskhop. Happy knitting!

Maria Teresa Matos Mendes Nuncio 07.12.2019 - 16:47:

Por favor pode mandar este modelo (a camisola com o Pai Natal mas para um bébé de 1 ano e feito com agulhas 3,5. A vossa lã é uma maravilha. Parabéns. Maria Teresa

DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 10:10:

Bom dia, Pode fazer este modelo para o tamanho menor (2 anos). Quanto ao número de agulhas, o indicado são agulhas 5.5 mm. Pode sempre pesquisar todos os modelos gratuitos e exclusivos para bebé aqui: https://www.garnstudio.com/catalogues.php?type=drops-baby&lang=pt Bons tricôs!

Lidia 27.11.2019 - 17:33:

Bardzo chciałabym zrobić ten sweterek, ale brak schematów.Bez nich ani rusz.

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