DROPS / 206 / 32

Boston Bricks Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted long jacket with V-neck in DROPS Snow. The piece is worked with textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Boston Bricks Jacket / DROPS 206-32 - Knitted long jacket with V-neck in DROPS Snow. The piece is worked with textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Boston Bricks Jacket / DROPS 206-32 - Knitted long jacket with V-neck in DROPS Snow. The piece is worked with textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-669
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 114-126-140-140-154-166 cm = 45”-49 1/2”-55”-55”-60 1/2”-65 1/4”
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"- 28 3/8”-29 1/8”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
750-850-900-1000-1100-1200 g color 83, mauve

KNITTING GAUGE:
9 stitches in width and 12 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 10 MM = US 15.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 10 MM = US 15: Length 80 cm = 32” for textured pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS, NO 536: 3 items in all sizes.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP (for V-neck):
Decrease for the neck on the inside of the 5 band stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 5 band stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 5 band stitches: Start 2 stitches before the 5 band stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with 1 size larger needle.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the third and fourth stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over = hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 25, 34 and 43 cm = 9 3/4”, 13 3/8” and 17”
M: 24, 33 and 42 cm = 9 1/2”, 13” and 16 1/2”
L: 24, 33 and 42 cm = 9 1/2”, 13” and 16 1/2”
XL: 25, 34 and 43 cm = 9 3/4”, 13 3/8” and 17”
XXL: 26, 35 and 44 cm = 10 1/4”, 13 3/4” and 17 1/4”
XXXL: 27, 36 and 45 cm = 10 5/8”, 14 1/4” and 17 3/4”

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 109-121-133-133-145-157 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 and Snow. Purl 1 row.
Insert 1 marker thread in each side, 29-32-35-35-38-41 stitches in from mid front (back piece = 51-57-63-63-69-75 stitches).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, knit 3 and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Change to circular needle size 10 mm = US 15 and work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * A.1 (= 3 stitches), A.2 (= 3 stitches) *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, work A.1 (= 3 stitches) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern – remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above. A.1 and A.2 are repeated in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work until the piece measures 38-38-39-40-41-42 cm = 15”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”. Now begin to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side – AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 47-49-48-50-49-51 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-19”-19 3/4”-19 1/3”-20”, bind off for the armholes as follows (continue the pattern):
V-NECK:
Decrease for the V-neck from the right side – read DECREASE TIP, every 4th row a total of 7-8-8-8-9-9 times, then every 2nd row a total of 1-0-0-1-0-0 times.
ARMHOLES:
When the piece measures 47-49-48-50-49-51 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-19”-19 3/4”-19 1/3”-20”, bind off 6 stitches in each side (= 3 stitches on each side of both marker threads). Then finish the front and back pieces separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with 5 band stitches in garter stitch, pattern and decreases for neck as before. When the decreases for the V-neck are finished there are 18-21-24-23-26-29 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”-28”-28 3/4”. Work 1 ridge, starting from the wrong side. On the next row from the wrong side bind off the first 13-16-19-18-21-24 stitches for the shoulder – read BINDING-OFF TIP = 5 stitches left on needle. Continue with garter stitch over these stitches until the collar measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”, bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with 5 band stitches in garter stitch, pattern and decreases for neck as before. When the decreases for the V-neck are finished there are 18-21-24-23-26-29 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”-28”-28 3/4” – adjust to match the right front piece. Work 1 ridge, starting from the right side. On the next row from the right side bind off the first 13-16-19-18-21-24 stitches for shoulder = 5 stitches on needle. Continue with garter stitch over these stitches until the collar measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”, bind off.

BACK PIECE:
= 45-51-57-57-63-69 stitches. Continue with pattern as before. Work until the piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm = 24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”-28”. On the next row from the right side bind off the middle 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 18-21-24-23-26-29 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”-28”-28 3/4” – adjust to match the front pieces. Work 1 ridge and bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Change to double pointed needles size 10 mm = US 15 and continue as follows: Work * A.1 (= 3 stitches), A.2 (= 3 stitches) *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue this pattern. A.1 and A.2 are repeated in height. Work until the piece measures 52-49-47-48-46-43 cm = 20 1/2”-19 1/4”-18 1/2”-19”-18”-17” (or to desired length; there is 3 cm = 1 1/8” left to finished length – NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Continue the pattern as before, but now work back and forth with circular needle until the piece measures 55-52-50-51-49-46 cm = 21 5/8”-20 1/2”-19 3/4”-20”-19 1/4”-18”. Bind off from the right side. The sleeve folds up approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8” at the bottom. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Sew the collar mid back and then sew it to the neckline at the back – the seam should be towards the wrong side.
Sew in the sleeves; sew the bind-off edge on the sleeve to the armhole and the opening under the sleeve to where the stitches were bind off for the armhole on the body – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Sew on the buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Jenny Darling 10.04.2021 - 08:07:

Thank you so much for your help. I’ve just found a YouTube video about how to knit straight on a circular needle. I can’t believe I didn’t get it!! It’s so easy!! I’ll try again with a circular needle. I can see the advantage when you have a lot of stitches. Thank you again.

country flag Jenny Darling 05.04.2021 - 12:03:

Can I knit this just using ordinary single point needles? I’ve tried circular needles and and really don’t get on with them at all. I can manage double point needles. I can’t see why you would need a circular needle for the body as it is a cardigan?? Thank you in anticipation.

user icon DROPS Design 05.04.2021 kl. 12:41:

Dear Jenny, we suggest using circular needles, because the body (the back and both front piece) is knitted in one (up to the armhole). While it is possible to knit it on straight needles, there will be a lot of stitches on the needles, that can be quite comfortable to manage. But if you rather balance the lot of needles on rather short needles, than maneuver circulars, go ahead, you can very well do that to. Happy Knitting!

country flag Nicola Spiteri 06.03.2021 - 20:48:

Can someone help me work out what I am doing wrong on this pattern? My work seems looser too but using large 10mm as stated. \r\n\r\nI am working as follows: \r\n\r\nK5, P3, K3 Cont\'d... K5\r\nRepeat x 2\r\nKnit\r\nPurl\r\n\r\nK5, K3, P3 Contd... K5\r\nRepeat x 2\r\nKnit\r\nPurl\r\n\r\nIs this correct? \r\nThanks in advance !

user icon DROPS Design 07.03.2021 kl. 21:54:

Dear Nicola, before starting any project, you should knit a swatch, in which you check your gauge and change needles accordingly. Some do like their knitted fabric denser, or looser than most, they can use a smaller or bugger needle, but if the gauge different, thenumber of stitches should be recalculated acordingly. Happy Knitting!

country flag Nicola Spiteri 04.03.2021 - 16:19:

The 2 rows between the pattern rows that are blank squares on diagram....do I just purl that row that knit second then back to pattern?

user icon DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 17:13:

Hi Nicola, the 2 rows between the pattern are worked knit from right side, purl from wrong side. Happy knitting!

country flag Jane Sebelius 02.01.2021 - 10:55:

Skal man starte fra retsiden eller vrangsiden på forstykker ?

user icon DROPS Design 07.01.2021 kl. 14:06:

Hej Jane, den første pind strikkes vrang fra vrangen, men du må gerne selv vælge om du hellere vil have den anden side som retside :)

country flag Jacqueline 28.12.2020 - 13:18:

Wer weiss wieviel Garn in Grösse XL benötigt? Vielen Dank

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2021 kl. 17:37:

Liebe Jacqueline. Grösse XL = 1000 g DROPS SNOW ( = 20 knäuel) Viele Spass zum Stricken!

country flag Catrin Fredheim 10.11.2020 - 14:01:

Hej, Det står att det ska vara rundstickor och strumstickor nr 9 och 10 i mönstret. Jag kan inte hitta större stickor än nr 6. På garnet Drops Eskimo står det stickor 8mm. Var hittar jag dessa stickor. Mvh Catrin Fredheim

user icon DROPS Design 11.11.2020 kl. 09:27:

Hej Catrin. Flera av våra återförsäljare säljer stickor i storlek 9 och 10, du hittar de t.ex. här. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Grażyna 17.10.2020 - 20:07:

Zrobiłam cały korpus, przy czym przód zakończony jest 13 oczek + 5 oczek taśmy ściegu francuskiego (7 cm wyższy) taśmy dekoltu, tył natomiast jedna strona (ramiona) kończy się 18 oczek zamkniętych w jednym rzędzie. Jak zszyć szwy ramion, skoro liczba oczek przodu i tyłu się nie zgadza i gdzie ma być przyszyta taśma dekoltu (ścieg francuski)?

user icon DROPS Design 20.10.2020 kl. 09:14:

Witaj Grażyno, ramię tyłu ma 18 o., do niego przyszyjesz ramię przodu i zostanie jeszcze 5 o., tam zostanie doszyty krótszy brzeg obszycia dekoltu. Zobacz video TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Monique 25.04.2020 - 09:44:

Many thanks for creating a website like this , I cant wait to receive the free pattern

country flag Inge 22.04.2020 - 22:06:

Is het de bedoeling dat je mindert in de 3 recht 3 averecht rijen of is het beter om te minderen in de rijen compleet recht of averecht?

user icon DROPS Design 25.04.2020 kl. 20:52:

Dag Inge,

Je mindert voor de V-hals in de naalden zoals aangegeven in het patroon. Het maakt daarbij niet uit waar je bent met het telpatroon (rechte naalden of naalden met afwisselend rechte en averecht).

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