September Rose by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with wave pattern and split in sides. Worked in DROPS Muskat. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 202-29
DROPS Design: Pattern no r-746
Yarn group B
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SIZES: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-106-118-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18”-19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 09, light brown

KNITTING GUAGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
5 repeats in width of A.1 = 35 cm = 13 3/4” in width when the piece has become wavy.
6 repeats in width of A.1 = 42 cm = 16 1/2” in width when the piece has become wavy.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All increases worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over between 2 stitches; on next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP FOR SLEEVES:
The decreases for the sleeve cap will affect the stitches in A.1 after a while. When you start to decrease in A.1, work the outermost 9 stitches in A.1 (towards the decreases) in stockinette stitch and the remaining stitches according to A.1.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections, which are sewn together to finish. The piece is worked bottom up. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on (slightly loosely) 103-113-123-136-146-158 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Muskat. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Work pattern from the right side as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, 6-11-16-14-19-25 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, 6-11-16-14-19-25 stitches in stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until the piece measures 10 cm = 4”. At the end of each of the next 2 rows cast on 1 stitch (mark split in sides) = 105-115-125-138-148-160 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GUAGE!
Now continue the pattern from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 9-14-19-17-22-28 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, 9-14-19-17-22-28 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4” bind off for armholes every 2nd row on each side as follows: 3-6-8-7-9-11 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2-3-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-4-5 times = 87-87-91-106-106-112 stitches. Continue the pattern with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 36-38-40-41-43-45 cm = 14 1/4”-15”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-17”-17 3/4” place the middle 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches on a thread for neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Now bind off for neck and the outermost 9 stitches towards the neck are not continued according to A.1 but in stockinette stitch – bind off on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1 time.
When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4”-18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8” work 2 ridges over all stitches. Bind off, but make sure the bind-off edge is not tight. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as front piece, but begin to bind off for neck when piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth with circular needle. Cast on (slightly loosely) 41-45-47-49-51-53 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Muskat. Work 2 ridges. Then work pattern with the first row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 2-4-5-6-7-8, work A.1, work stockinette stitch, work A.1, knit 2-4-5-6-7-8 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the piece measures 8-8-8-7-5-5 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-2 3/4”-2”-2” increase 1 stitch on each side, inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” a total of 8-8-8-11-14-15 times and then every 4-4-2-3-3-1 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/8” a total of 3-3-5-4-2-3 times = 63-67-73-79-83-89 stitches.
When the piece measures 45-45-44-43-41-41 cm = 17 3/4”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17”-16 1/8”-16 1/8” bind off for sleeve cap at the beginning of each row – READ DECREASE TIP FOR SLEEVE ABOVE - on each side as follows: Bind off 4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4-4-5-5-5-5 times, 1 stitch 1-2-3-5-7-9 times and 2 stitches 5-5-5-5-5-5 times = 17-19-19-21-21-23 stitches. Bind off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 53-54-54-54-54-55 cm = 21”-21 1/4”-21 1/4”-21 1/4”-21 1/4”-21 5/8”. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew sleeves to body inside the bind-off edge on sleeves and the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body. Sew sleeve seams and then continue down the side seams as far as the split (sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side).

NECK:
The neck is worked in the round with short circular needle.
Knit up from the right side approx. 95-105 stitches (including stitches from thread in front) with short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work 2 RIDGES in the round – see description above. Bind off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.05.2019
Correction: DROPS Muskat color 09, light brown

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Martina Rumposch wrote:

Die Wolle ist für Größe M zu knapp bemessen. Hätte ich die Ärmel nicht versehentlich in S gestrickt, hätte sie nicht gereicht.

26.07.2022 - 06:32

country flag Ava wrote:

Doing sleeves for 202-29. Are the decreases for the sleeves only done on the right side only and in just 1 end of the row? If decreasing on both ends it ends up to be over 17 stitches binded off.

21.02.2022 - 09:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ava, cast off the stitches for sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on each side, ie in first size: cast off 4 sts at the beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at the beg of next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at the beg of next 4 rows, and 2 sts at the beg of next 10 rows. Happy knitting!

21.02.2022 kl. 10:26

country flag Ava wrote:

Sorry I’m doing pattern 202-29

15.02.2022 - 02:51

country flag Ava wrote:

Doing the back of 202-09, do I start to shape the shoulders when the neck is 16 1/2 inches? And as for the shoulder sides how do I know what length each side of the shoulders should be? Am I just binding off for the neck and not continuing the 2 sides for shoulders? I hope I’m making sense!

15.02.2022 - 02:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ava, back piece is worked the same way as front piece except neck that will be cast off later, but then after you have cast off for neck, continue each shoulder separately as front piece: work until piece measures 17 3/4”-18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8” work 2 ridges over all stitches and bind off - work the other shoulder the same way. Happy knitting!

15.02.2022 kl. 09:15

country flag Trentin wrote:

Bonjour je n arrive pas à faire l encolure. J ai diminue pour l encolure mais je ne comprend pas les 9 mailles côté encolure qui se tricotent en jersey. Merci pour votre aide

15.06.2021 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Trentin, comme vous n'avez plus suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter le point fantaisie sur toutes les mailles, vous tricotez les autres mailles (= 9) côté encolure en jersey et plus en point fantaisie, et en même temps, vous rabattez les mailles de l'encolure au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure (= sur l'endroit pour le côté droit et sur l'envers pour le côté gauche du devant). Bon tricot!

16.06.2021 kl. 07:02

country flag Kathleen wrote:

On the increase tip for sleeves, it says to increase only on the right side. On the sleeve pattern instructions it says to increase one stitch on each side. Which one is it?

09.06.2021 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathleen, increase on the right side, in other words the side that will be outside of the piece, and on both side, in other words at the beginning and at the end of a row. Happy Stitching!

09.06.2021 kl. 20:46

country flag Katariina wrote:

Kumpaan sivuun olkapäissä tehdään 9s sileää neuletta (kaula-aukko vai kainalo) ja kuinka mallineutta jatketaan? Kuvassa ei näy 9s sileää, vaan näyttää että mallikuvio on jatkunut kunnes tehdään ainaoikeat kerrokset ennen päättämistä.

06.05.2021 - 17:20

country flag Kathleen wrote:

On the sleeves I cast on 47 stitches worked two ridges in garter stitch, knit 1Edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 5, knit A1, then it says to work stockenette? How many? And if I do there won’t be enough stitches to continue the pattern to finish this first row. Please explain

15.11.2020 - 02:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kathleen, After the ridges the next row is : 1 edge stitch, 5 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1, then 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1, then 5 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch. Happy knitting!

15.11.2020 kl. 11:24

country flag Kathleen wrote:

How do you continue the pattern after bind off of the 9 neck stitches? not enough stitches left to follow the pattern please explain

31.10.2020 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathleen, when there is not enough stitches for a whole repeat of the pattern, the stitches are knitted with stickinett stitch. Happy Knitting!

31.10.2020 kl. 18:34

country flag Kathleen wrote:

I have the 17 stitches on the thread but unsure of where I start the bind off . by the stitches nearest the thread? Or start the bind off at the end where the shoulder will be? And when do I start the 9 stitches in stockenette while still doing the bind off or after?

21.10.2020 - 02:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathleen, you mean for neck/shoulders? After you have slipped the 17 sts on a thread, you continue each shoulder separately, this means you will cast off for neck at the beginning of the row starting from neck (from RS for the left shoulder/front piece and from WS for the right shoulder/front piece) - start working 9 sts towards neck when you have divided piece for neck (these 9 sts will be decreased for neck). Happy knitting!

21.10.2020 kl. 08:43

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