DROPS / 200 / 24

Evening Out by DROPS Design

Knitted dress in DROPS Paris with stripes, raglan and split in sides, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no w-770
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 85-88-91-94-97-100 cm = 33 1/2”-34 5/8”-35 3/4”-37”-38 1/4”-39 3/8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g color 17, off white
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color 101, light blue
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color 59, old pink
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 29, ice blue
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 41, mustard

If you are working with 1 color, you will need: PARIS:
550-600-650-750-800-900 g

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZES 4 MM AND 5 MM = US 6 AND 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZES 4 MM AND 5 MM = US 6 AND 8: both with length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for yoke):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 7.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 7th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN (for raglan):
See diagram A.1.

STRIPES:
The whole body is worked in stockinette stitch and with 6 stripes; each stripe is worked to a height of 13-13.5-14-14.5-15-15.5 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/4”-5 1/2”-5 3/4”-6”-6 1/8” in the following colors: First ice blue, then off white, mustard, old pink, light blue and off white.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 8 stitches increased on round). On the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of dress):
Start 5 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 6 (marker thread sits in middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of dress):
Start 3 stitches before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits in middle of these 6 stitches) 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down to where the split begins. Then front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeve-edges are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 88-88-96-96-102-102 stitches with short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and ice blue. Work 2 RIDGES in the round – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Knit 1 round where you increase 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 100-100-108-108-116-116 stitches. Insert 4 marker threads for raglan in the piece as follows, without working the stitches: First marker thread is inserted after the first 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker thread after the next 20 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd after the next 30-30-34-34-38-38 stitches (= front piece) and 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 20 stitches (= sleeve). There are 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches left on round after the last marker thread. Then work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Work the colors as described in STRIPES – see description above. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN – see description above, on each side of the 4 marker threads (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 14-17-18-22-23-26 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! After the last increase there are 212-236-252-284-300-324 stitches on needle.
Continue with stripes without further increases to raglan, but to avoid the rows of holes along the raglan lines being broken, work A.1 in each transition between body and sleeves (arrow in A.1 marks the marker thread in raglan line). When the piece measures 16-18-20-22-24-26 cm = 6 1/4”-7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4” from the cast-on edge mid front, divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 31-34-37-41-45-49 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 44-50-52-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 62-68-74-82-90-98 stitches (= front piece), place the next 44-50-52-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 31-34-37-41-45-49 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand.
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on in each side = 68-74-82-90-100-110 stitches between the 2 marker threads. Start the round at the marker thread on the right side (when garment is worn).
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division, decrease 2 stitches in each side – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 3 times in each side = 124-136-152-168-188-208 stitches. When the piece measures 16 cm = 6 1/4” from the division increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 1½ cm = 1/2” a total of 28 times in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 43-44-43-44-43-43 cm = 17”-17 1/4”-17”-17 1/4”-17”-17” divide for split in sides at both marker threads and front and back pieces are finished separately. Leave the stitches for the back piece on needle or place on 1 thread.

Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth, but the 3 outermost stitches on each side are worked in GARTER STITCH – see description above - but NOTE: After the split on each side you continue to increase in each side, but you now increase inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. After the last increase there are 118-124-132-140-150-160 stitches on needle.
After the last stripe, the piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm = 30 3/4”-32”-33”-34 1/4”-35 1/2”-36 5/8” mid front (the full length of the dress will be 6 cm = 2 3/8” longer at the shoulder) – if you want a longer dress then add the length here. Then change to needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side.
Work back piece in the same way.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Place the 44-50-52-60-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-56-60-68-70-76 stitches. Work 2 ridges using the same color as the thread-stitches, and then bind off with knit. Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit 1
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Isabelle Laurent 27.05.2020 - 17:27:

Bonjour, je n'arrive pas à tricoter cette robe en rond, est-il possible d'avoir les explications à tricoter en aiguilles droites, je sais tricoter avec des aiguilles circulaires, mais pas en rond fermé. Ayant déjà acheté toute la laine pour le modèle, je serai déçue de ne pas pouvoir la tricoter, de plus, je comptais la porter pour mon anniversaire, le 22 juin, pour mes 50 ans. Merci beaucoup d'avance. Mme Laurent Isabelle

DROPS Design 28.05.2020 kl. 08:12:

Bonjour Mme Laurent, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites - votre magasin saura vous assister - même par mail ou téléphone - pour toute aide personnalisée. Bon tricot!

Mari 13.04.2020 - 13:45:

Hei. Ser det står referert til diagram A1, men jeg finner ikke noe diagram i oppskriften. Finner forklaringer til diagrammet, men ikke selve diagrammet.

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 10:30:

Hej Mari Du hittar A1 på höger sida om måttskissen längst ner. Lycka till!

Marisol Omand 31.10.2019 - 20:26:

Is it possible to have this pattern converted to a crochet pattern? I love the way this looks, but, i can only crochet. Thank you.

DROPS Design 31.10.2019 kl. 23:19:

Dear Marisol, unfortunately we cannot convert this pattern for you, as we cannot modify every pattern for each individual request. However, you can find a number of patterns for crocheted dresses on our site, which you can use as a base. Happy Crafting!

Diana 04.08.2019 - 11:00:

The material list says size 4 and size 5 circular needles: BOTH in 40 and 60 or 80 mm length. However nowhere in the pattern does it say when to use the different length needles. Can you advise please?

DROPS Design 04.08.2019 kl. 14:37:

Hi Diana! At the beggining of your work (neck) use shorter needles (40 cm), at the end you will need longest ones (60 or 80 cm), because the number of stitches is higher. The choice of the lenght of your needles is personal, I usually start with needles 40 cm, later on I like knitting on needles 80 cm. Happy knitting!

Vigdis Roland 17.06.2019 - 17:55:

Er det feil i mønsteret? Jeg får 212 m når raglan er økt. Så får jeg 47 m til ermer IKKE 44 som det står i mønstret. Så får jeg 58 m på for og bakstykke IKKE 62 !

DROPS Design 18.06.2019 kl. 07:44:

Hei Vigdis. Du har økt 28 masker på hvert erme og forstykke/bakstykket (14 masker i hver side), og har derfor 58 masker på forstykket og bakstykket og 48 masker på hvert erme. Når du så skal dele inn arbeidet til bol og ermer, blir de 2 ytterste maskene på hvert erme en del av forstykket/bakstykket. Bolen "stjeler" 2 masker i hver side fra hvert erme. Du får derfor 44 masker på hvert erme og 62 masker på forstykket og bakstykket - dette er meningen. God fornøyelse

Joly 07.05.2019 - 06:01:

Merci

Joly 06.05.2019 - 14:27:

Merci beaucoup vous c est pour continuer les jour s le long des raglans a 1 a chaque transition cela eux dire quoi j ai du ma a comprendre merci de votre reponce

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 15:19:

Bonjour Mme Joly, les transitions entre le dos/le devant et les manches correspondent aux augmentations pour le raglan et aux marqueurs que vous aviez placés (et augmenté ensuite de part et d'autre). A.1 va se tricoter au-dessus des mailles des raglans, la flèche dans le diagramme indique où votre marqueur se trouve, commencez à tricoter A.1 3 mailles avant le marqueur, tricotez A.1 (= 6 mailles) soit 3 m avant + 3 m après chaque marqueur. Ainsi, les diagonales de trous (comme pour le raglan) vont continuer, mais vous n'allez plus augmenter. Bon tricot!

JOLY 06.05.2019 - 06:51:

Pour l empiècement pour. Augmentée c est un tour ou deux tous a endroit merci pour la répond vous avec des nouveau. Modèle. Très jolie merci je me reg

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 10:51:

Bonjour Mme Joly, pour les augmentations du raglan, on augmente tous les 2 tours: 1 tour en augmentant comme indiqué sous RAGLAN, 1 tour sans augmenter - répétez ces 2 tours le nombre de fois indiqué pour votre taille. Bon tricot!

Joly 05.05.2019 - 18:05:

Comment faire pour faire un diagramme c est sur 4rangs merci de votre reponse

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 10:07:

Bonjour Mme Joly, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre votre question, le diagramme A.1 se tricote sur 5 mailles et 2 rangs. Quand ces 2 rangs ont été tricotés, répétez les en recommençant au 1er rang. Bon tricot!

Hanne 25.02.2019 - 20:25:

Warte ungeduldig auf die Fertigstellung der Anleitung, da ich inzwischen ein Sommerkleid der letzten Saison fertig habe

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